pink_vampirekrae_laptop: look very nice!
pink_vampirewhere did you got the rails?
pink_vampirewhat brand?
sideralakrae_laptop: looks a lot like jsteve-mobile printer
krae_laptoplook for a seller from greencastle, IN
krae_laptopgood rails.
krae_laptopthey did need oiled, but work great
krae_laptopsiderala: looks a lot like it, doesn't it?
pink_vampiresis there any dust protection on the blocks?
sideralakrae_laptop: copyfuckingcat
krae_laptoppink_vampire: not sure what you mean
pink_vampireI need to get rails like those you got for my cnc machine
pink_vampireand I need a dust proof rails.
sideralakrae_laptop: some rails have like foam or brushes around the rolers
krae_laptopah, nothing like that
Valduarekrae_laptop: there’s a little red squeegee on mgn12 that keeps dust out
Opar120 18650s, ez pz
Opar$214 total
pink_vampireOpar: ?
sideralaWtf is this thing
sideralaI printed and painted a laser pistol! (I printed and painted a laser pistol!
sideralaNot mine
jeffdm_homelooks like a Printrbot of some sort
sideralajeffdm_home: that looks older I'm guessing?
jeffdm_homePrntrbot Simple
jeffdm_homelooks like the owner made a hash out of the cable bundle routing
NorxMALWhen is it "okay" to turn off the hot end fan with PLA for example? Around 100c on the hot end?
jeffdm_homeI do it at 50-60
NorxMALI tend to do it around 60c
jeffdm_homeHigher might be OK but I'd rather let it cool down more than risk having to unjam
jsteve-mobileI do it all the time.
jeffdm_homeyo mama
jsteve-mobileNah. She's old. She probably hasn't done it this century
jeffdm_homeyo SO
jsteve-mobilewhen I was in gradeschool it always went : "yo momma" "yo daddy" "yo bald-headed granny"
jeffdm_homeI have like all the ambition but none of the energy
jeffdm_homeThat might be an older Simple the bed seems shorter
jeffdm_homesimple metal
jsteve-mobilethe type on this client is really small, so I thought that said "DocGonzo420 joined the Death Cult"
sprrocketfinally got my autoleveling working properly :D
DocGonzo420Well, it is reprap
sprrocketdidn't know you had to set your z-offset with M851 instead of M206
DocGonzo420What's shakin jsteve-mobile
jeffdm_homehis mama
jsteve-mobileI got no fucking idea
sprrocketbilinear bed leveling is beautiful
jsteve-mobileyou and siderala with your obsession with my mother
jeffdm_homeBut it's the logical conclusion.
NorxMALI have printed a own design of a fruit fly trap, with inspiration from a different design. Going to see if it works first before showing/uploading it
jstevewhiteACTION checks the phone
NorxMALUhm, I think the design is flawed_
NorxMALCould work outside
Oparmy printers suck how do i fix
djdeloriechange the switch from "suck" to "blow".
Oparok will try
Oparwhere is switch? my printer is model "3d"
jstevewhitethat's funny. You don't look druish.
NorxMALMine works in blow mode
jstevewhiteLudicrous Speed!
Oparmy cheap filament broke
jstevewhitewell, it was cheap, so
OparI don't have any atomic rn. Can I order it yet
gthxatomic is atomic filament ( good stuff ) and is made by crunch ... REPRAP12 coupon for 12% off orders of 2 or more 1KG rolls (may only be used once per customer), no 3.5kg rolls or clearance items allowed for coupon use, please respect that, orders with 3.5kg or clearance items will be cancelled.
jstevewhiteCommence Operation VAC-U-SUCK
NorxMALjstevewhite, Spaceballs my balls!
jstevewhiteFuck! Even in the future nothing works!
reifsnyderb2jstevewhite: Just make sure you change the combination on your luggage!
jstevewhite"How many Asshole's we got on this ship, anyhow?"
NorxMALjstevewhite, at least we don't have fucking floppy disks anymore, they went to hell easily!
NorxMALWell, the 3.14 ones at least
Oparthey're so pretty
krae_laptoptensioner and belt are on now. kicking ass
jstevewhitedid you get it tensioned?
krae_laptophard to turn by hand, but easy by moving the belt
krae_laptopseems good.
reifsnyderb2jstevewhite: When will then be now? Soon!
jstevewhiteMine is pretty easy to turn from the 32t pulley though
jstevewhiteLol reifsnyderb2
krae_laptopbtw, for the locking bolts, they're 3mm x 30. not in the BOM
jstevewhiteWhat the hell am I looking at.? When does this happen in the movie?
jstevewhitekrae_laptop: sorry man
krae_laptopand I used 3mm washers & 4mm washers both on them, which made them way more solid on the upper tensioner
krae_laptopno worries. I have lots of hardware like that
jstevewhiteMe too. That's why they aren't in the bom
krae_laptopmight be harder to turn because of the bent leadscrew.
krae_laptopit's noticeable.
jstevewhiteAh yeah
jstevewhiteAlso check the collar
krae_laptopcollar shouldn't be too tight against the bearing?
jstevewhiteI got mine to tight and couldn't turn it
krae_laptopok, will check that
jstevewhiteI had it so tight it was bending the bearing carrier slightly
OparSo why the fuck does amazon
Oparwithout telling you
Oparrenew prime?
OparChecked back 15 days of emails
OparNone of them from amazon said "Hey, your prime's about to run out and we're going to charge you $100"
jstevewhiteThey tell you when you sign up
OparThats like bullshit
Oparthey can't even do me the courtesy of telling me again?
jstevewhiteWell, you're supposed to read and remember
OparRemember for a year?
jstevewhiteDoes Boy's Life send you a reminder every month that they are mailing your latest issue?
Oparmonthly =/= yearly
krae_laptopwell, moves a tad easier now. how much tension do you put on the belt?
OparI remember I bought it in the summer. not the day and which month
jstevewhiteQuite a bit, krae_laptop
jstevewhiteEnough to make my finger tips white from the pressure. Lol
OparI log in and theres an option to turn on reminders
krae_laptopI tend to overdo that kind of thing
OparThey send me a bunch of junk mail, why don't they enable this one by default?
krae_laptopI'm a bit of a giant, and I overtorque a lot of shit
jstevewhiteI'm just a normal sized big guy, and I still overdo stuff from time to time
krae_laptopI have 4 distinct different bass notes on the belt, and one alto
krae_laptopon the short bit
OparThe correct torque is always
jstevewhiteLol. Sounds right.
Oparpush until you fart
Opargo back a quarter turn
Lizards|Worksounds about right
krae_laptopsounds right
Oparnot once has a lug nut fallen off
krae_laptopok, Y rail time
OparI lost a pair of pants once, but better than losing a tire.
reifsnyderb2I like to torque something down to about 1/2 a turn before it twists off. ;-)
Lizards|Workreifsnyderb2: the failure condition on proceeding too far there is about as risky as could tolerate
Oparthe correct torque using an impact driver is to go until the impacts stop
jstevewhiteSo you're getting ready to put the x carriages on?
reifsnyderb2Lizards|Word: As long as you only torque to 1/2 a turn until it twists off, it will be fine! :-p
Oparreifsnyderb2: I live by that rule
krae_laptopjstevewhite: yes
OparA little tricky to do with 1/2" bolts but always works
jstevewhiteYou gotta put em on the rail before you screw em on
reifsnyderb2Opar: Worst case, all you have to do is drill out the bolt and re-tap it. :-D
jstevewhiteBecause the radio o
Oparreifsnyderb2: yeah
Oparreifsnyderb2: or drill into the bolt and tap the bolt
jstevewhiteRail just fits between the other rails.
Oparstronger threads.
reifsnyderb2Opar: Worst case, helicoil for the win. :-)
Oparworst case you just throw a stick of dynamite at it
jstevewhiteHelicoil and easy-out. My childhood buddies
jstevewhitekrae_laptop: I put the nuts and screws in, then clamped them both on the rail
jstevewhiteScrewed one down then moved the other one out and screwed it down
Oparwhy with helicoils
Oparthose seem expensive and a little useless
krae_laptoptrying to figure out why my rail doesn't fit between the carriages, lol
rue_houseanyone know a program that will render an stl like its a lineart drawing?
rue_house(outter edges, black and white)
krae_laptopdoes the rail stick through the carriers some?
Oparahh nothing smells more like summer than burning hairspray
rue_houseanyone know a program that will render an stl like its a lineart drawing?
Lizards|Workdepends on what you're asking for
rue_houseno way...
rue_houseno it dosn'tdo stl
rue_houseI want to render an stl object like it was lineart
rue_houseaka, white sides, on a white background with outter edge tracing
rue_housenot EVERY edge
pink_vampireis there a way to reduce the colors in win 7?
Valduarek enough imgur for tonight
rue_house^^ nothing that can render an stl like that?
rue_housemore or less
pink_vampireif one of you in to 3d modeling and you want to make the computer a bit faster, this is how you reduce the color depth in windows 7
Lizards|Workalright dudes i'm goin home
hopelesslyanyone from america try building a prusa i3?
djdelorieACTION guesses "yes"
rue_housei3, hah, no i2 is the way to go
sprrocket'bout to find out if increasing probe points on bed leveling helps any :P
djdelorieACTION guesses "yes" anyway ;-)
sprrocket@hopelessly I built an i3 from a kit, if that counts
sprrocketand then replaced the entire x-carriage because the chinese extruder assembly suuuucked
hopelesslyim just wondering if anyone has tried using standard nuts and bolts as opposed to the metric listed in the bom
djdeloriefor the prusa, metric fasteners *are* standard
sprrocketYou can get away with using the imperial equivalent on the smaller side for most of it, except for the stepper motor screw slots
sprrocketbut you should just buy a set of metric screws anyways, you'll use 'em.
sprrocketjust buy an assortment of them from eBay or Aliexpress :)
djdelorieor your local hardware store. Mine has a full selection.
Opardelta is rock fucking solid
Oparexcept it doesn't have good adhesion :/
sprrocketeven Home Depot carries an assortment of m3 screws, but I was only able to find them in sets of 2-3 screws for like 50 cents
Oparneed to find something thats easy and works without heat
hopelesslyi looked at miners and ace they dont have any M3 screws
Oparprobably just tape.
djdelorieHome Depot doesn't count ;-)
hopelesslyand home depot
Opartrue value has m3
pink_vampirehopelessly: you can get metric fastener in the us
djdeloriemy local SMALL hardware store has them in bulk or in boxes
sprrocketI have yet to find a "local hardware store" other than home depot
Oparmy town has 4
djdelorieyou don't have an Ace or True Value near you?
Oparthat aren't lowes/home depot/menards
pink_vampireI <3 fastenal
Oparfastenal too
Oparwe have 3
Oparwithin 35 miles
sprrocketwell. herpderp. I'd never heard of Ace
sprrocketthe more you know
Oparnah man true value is the shit
OparACTION works at a tv store
sprrocketholy shit this is the most perfect leveling I've ever been able to get out of this printer
Oparhow good?
Oparmy bed is within 4 thou
sprrocketFinally got it to not be to close to the bed on the right-middle side
sprrocketapparently all I had to do was increase the grid points to be measured from 3 to 4
sprrocketto give the mesh a more accurate read
sprrocketaaaand I'll get to do this all over again when I replace the probe, yayyy.
krae_laptopWhew, X-Carriers on
krae_laptopneed to put the stacked idlers on them still
sprrocketAnyone have a link to a *good* induction probe?
sprrocketwilling to spend a few extra bucks if it means reliability
Valduaresprrocket: ask the aliens they usually have good tips for what makes a probe good or not
uberadminerroof leak!
MikeeeI won, Monoprice 13860 Maker Select for $67
Artesian3Dmy rostock's E motor is squealing a good bi t
Artesian3Dis it going too fast? too slow?
Artesian3Dprinting looks perfect
djdeloriemine makes no noise, even when extruding faster than my volcano can melt...
Mikeeemine vibrates because i'm too lazy to tighten the mount
Artesian3Dits definitely tight on the mount..
Artesian3Dits sitting in a traditional extruder assembly
Artesian3Dall 4 screws tight
Artesian3Dwhat does the squealing ACTUALLY signify?
Artesian3Dlike what's MAKING the sound?
Mikeeedo you oil it?
Artesian3Dwhat part?
Artesian3Dno I dont
Artesian3Di have machine grease, motor oil, and ptfe oil
Mikeeethe motor bearings and the tube
djdelorieyou'll have to figure out where the noise is coming from. Try unloading the idler and manually "extruding" at various speeds (from pronterface)
djdeloriethen try with the idler loaded but no filament, etc
djdeloriesome light motor oil on the idler bearing might help
Artesian3DMikeee: AHH interesting
Artesian3DSo I oiled the hobbed bolt
Artesian3Dreduced the whine by about 75%
Artesian3Dso maybe I shouldnt blame the motor immediately
Artesian3Dalso PTFE smells delicious
Artesian3Dthat worries me
Artesian3Ddjdelorie: i agree the idler bearing but I wanna make sure that doesnt ever touch filament
Artesian3Dthats hard to do
Mikeeei oil my filament
jeffdm_homeshoulda gotton the bacon filament
Mikeeejust have a clipped-on sponge lightly soaked with oil
jeffdm_homeso you expect it
Artesian3Dyou dont wanna pass the machine oils through the hotend
Artesian3Dthats a recipe for toxic someting or other
Artesian3Dmineral or vegetable oil is fine on filament
Artesian3Dim trying to do long term mechanical fixes though
Artesian3Dits also ONLY happening on the high speed retractions
Artesian3Dso that's something to note
jeffdm_homeoil tends to bake itself into the inside surface of the hot end and insulate the plastic
jeffdm_homeends up looking crusty inside there
rpifancan u make a single nozzle printer into a dual nozzle printer
djdelorieI over-oiled my filament once, oil got onto the bed and nothing stuck until I completely cleaned it and the hotend :-P
Mikeeeyeah you have to be sure to avoid over oiling
Artesian3Danother good reason for caution
Mikeeeand be damn sure your home position is not over the bed
Artesian3Dthe sound is very high pitched... this is really obnoxious
Artesian3Dits doing an important job or I'd pause it
Artesian3Doh also..
Mikeeethe first ~5mm of filament during my home/cleaning process is usually way soaked with oil and useless.
Artesian3Dwhat's the standard best practice for managing a bowden tube?
Artesian3Dmine tends to creep toward the Z tower
djdelorie"managing" ?
Artesian3Dand can get pinched above the carriage
gthxcreep is you weirdo
Artesian3Di sort of have it bungee-corded to the top of the machine, but I dont want to torque it
Artesian3Dso when its fully at bottom of machine 0 0 home...
Artesian3Dthe tube is long and straight
Artesian3Dwhen the effector and nozzle rise, the tube begins to curve
djdelorieah, you mean controlling where it is... try including a length or two of filament in the bowden/wire bundle
Artesian3Dthat's just what bowdens do
Artesian3Dclever idea, but this thing is already super rigid
Artesian3Di think that's half the issue
Artesian3Dit goes where IT wants to, not where I tell it to
Mikeeei've never had the issue before
djdelorieif you orient it right, the curve of the filament might help it bend in the right direction
Artesian3DMikeee: i print 3mm in my bowden
Artesian3Dwhich is quite rare
Artesian3Dmuch more pressure involved
djdeloriemine is long enough that it's never quite straight, so it's always a bit pre-bent in a suitable direction
Artesian3Dand the bowden tube is 6.35mm thick
Artesian3Dinstead of 4
djdelorieor a bit of piano wire, pre-bent to push it in the direction you want?
Artesian3Dthats clever
Artesian3Di wonder
Artesian3Dmaybe i can adjust my bungee a little..
Artesian3Dpull it toward the XY side
Artesian3Dso it doesnt wander off toward Z
djdelorieor just unplug some of the wires and put more twist on them, then re-plug
djdeloriemine curves towards the X tower but I've never seen it get pinched or caught
Artesian3Ddjdelorie: definitely only happens with either ultra long custom tubes or with 3mm filament tubes
Artesian3Dcould be my tube is a tad too long also
Artesian3Dbut I fear shortening it, dont want to stress or torque the effector
Artesian3Dfinally got a few hiccups in quality too
Artesian3Dcan address when the part is finished
djdelorieiirc the original rostock had the extruder on the side of the bottom section; the bowden was never straight. I wonder if that would be better for you
Artesian3Dthe way I built mine it's pretty locked in to being where it is
Artesian3Dbut if I have some time I can CAD Up a side mounting system?
Artesian3Dthe V3 does that also
Artesian3Dside mounted to the top though
thehebs_mmmm tpu
Artesian3Dit lengthens the bowden run though, which i wouldnt love
XXCoderthehebs_: isnt tpu dissolvable?
thehebs_dont think so
gthxtpu is thermoplastic polyurethane and is also flexible, abrasion resistant, rubbery
XXCoderguess not
Artesian3DTPU dissolves with all the dangerous stuff
Artesian3Dand even then it's HARD
XXCodergthx: plastic properties is
gthxXXCoder: Okay.
Artesian3Dcyclohexane, toluene, sulfuric acid, trichloroethane
Nach0z.w kast
XXCoderplastic properties?
Artesian3Ddon't go dissolving your own TPU
gthxplastic properties is
Nach0zwelp that was hand shift
kritterI'm thinking about buying a yacht to house my thoroughbreds, any advice?
XXCoderwow hdpe .02 water saturaion
thehebs_wait so tpu is carcenogenic?
sprrocketof everything I've learned with 3D printing, if it doesn't dissolve with water it's probably not worth it; Just figure out how to make removable supports or use PVA.
thehebs_i print a shitload of it
XXCoderthehebs_: chemicals to melt it is
thehebs_probably sent 50 kg through the big delta
sprrocketIn fact, even if you're printing supports in TPU it's probably easier to remove them by hand anyways
thehebs_yea its not bad
krittersprrocket, or HIPS
krittersprrocket, TPU is extremely inert
thehebs_s3d supports anyways
kritteri mean thehebs_
kritterTPU is probably not a carcinogen
sprrocketyeah HIPS is very easy to remove by hand especially with ABS
thehebs_its very satisfying
kritterwth is that thehebs_
thehebs_its a little protection pod for a racing drone
sprrocketone of these days I'll get myself a multi-material single-extruder setup and mess with supports in a different material but for now there's not much that requires it :P
rpifanapparently the printer im getting is a reprap clone, can i make the bed bigger?
sprrocketNot unless you get a new, bigger frame
sprrocketAlso, a "reprap clone" doesn't make much sense, unless you mean an i3 clone?
rpifancan u not make the bed bigger only in one axis
rpifanits anet a6
thehebs_theres a pic of it installed
sprrocketYou could extend the Y axis but you'd also have to get longer y-axis rods and such
thehebs_this is the one i am finishing the design on and will be selling shortly
sprrocketShort answer: Yes it's possible but it's not easy
XXCoder this is all. lol
durrfimo it would be better if it was someone else holding his faced
rpifanand i guess it wont be worth it
sprrocketProbably not.
durrfwhy the fuck not
sprrocketHow many things do you print that require a build space bigger than 200x200?
rpifanid like a small house for my ken dolls
sprrocketPrint it in pieces and glue 'em together
sprrocketPlus, if it fails halfway you're not wasting as much material
rpifanidk if ken woyld be ok with that build quality
rpifanbut seriously i guess it doesnt make much of a difference
rpifani do wish i coul print out shoes or something
OdonayAlright…. it’s been a few years since I’ve even last owned a 3D printer, are the Prusa printers still the way to go?
sprrocketIf it's the official Prusa i3, yes
b3nt0Hi, do you guys know where I can get a legit ramps1.4
sprrocketif it's a knockoff, get ready for some troubleshooting but otherwise, still solid printers.
b3nt0i just had one go up in smoke
Odonaysprrocket: hah I homebrewed a Prusa Mendel (i2) like 2 years ago, troubleshooting/calibration was my game
sprrocketb3nt0, I don't think there's an official RAMPS manufacturer. It's just a design and companies sell 'em, as far as I know
Odonayback then auto bed height was new fangled tech and now itl ooks like it’s standard
sprrocketWell, Odonay, if you want to go that route, buy an Anet A8 and upgrade it to an E3D v6 ;)
Odonaysprrocket: you mean buy the printer and throw an E3D hot end on it?
b3nt0thanks sprrocket try my chances somehwere else i guess
sprrocketI bought a Migbot which is pretty similar and threw an E3D Titan + v6 and a new inductive probe on it, works great
Odonaysprrocket: $208?!!?! holy sh*t
sprrocketOnly other thing to do is build a TL-Smoother (a diode loop) to get rid of the artifacts of the cheap stepper drivers skipping to the next full step
Odonaywow people are doing that now?
sprrocketI know I am. :P
Odonaywhat are the go to stepper drivers these days?
OdonayI was running A4988's
sprrocketYep that's the one
OdonayI knew there was a new one people were talking about at the time
Odonaydrop in replacement, same pinout but significantly better (and quieter)
Odonayoh the DRV8825
sprrocketThe DRV8825, I believe
Odonayalso is everyone printing PEI these days? I was one of the first guys on the IRC to buy a sheet of the stuff LOL
Odonayprinting on*
sprrocketThat's what the official Prusa i3 is using, but everyone still has their preference
sprrocketI'm using BuildTak 'cuz it's easier to replace
sprrocketThere's also Printbite and just the old fashioned way of printing on a bare surface with gluestick/hairspray/blue tap
Odonayoh buildtak is a lot cheaper now
Odonayyeah I actually was a fan of good ol raw glass + tresseme before PEI
Odonaytried glue stick, etc.
Odonayactually glue stick worked pretty well but it was impossible to clean lol
sprrocketYou can also sand it with some 200-grit sandpaper and wipe it with 70% isopropyl alcohol to restore it a bit and get some more use out of it
sprrocketPurple glue stick washes off with water o.O
OdonayI always had left over residue
sprrocketTrue. That's part of the reason I switched to BuildTak
sprrocketIt's even better once you get your auto-leveling working
b3nt0anyone happen to know the arduino 5v regulator name I think thats the only thing I blew up. plugged in the end stops wrong ftw
Odonayyeah and I remember I even tried kapton tape, I hated every minute I used it
Odonayb3nt0: on the Mega?
Artesian3Ddriver gear coming loose because grub screw doesnt stay tight enough
OdonayArtesian3D: Loctite
Artesian3Dmotor too hot?
sprrocketTurn down vref?
Artesian3Dim in the middle of a 10 hour print!
Artesian3Dthis is the romax
Artesian3Dit's very very well tuned
Artesian3Dbut i never gave it more than 4 hour print before this one
Artesian3Dit has done the object pretty much perfectly so far
sprrocketIs it hot enough to burn you after a few seconds?
Artesian3Dbut now the gears appear to be stalling out
Artesian3Dsprrocket: yes
Artesian3Dit has a giant heatsink on it too!
sprrocketyeah that's too hot. hmm.
Artesian3Dbut lets be clear..
Artesian3Dis that what's causing gears to stall and grind?
Artesian3DI tightend the driver grub :
Odonayb3nt0: MC33269ST-5.0T3
Artesian3Dmaybe I shouldnt have been so fast to blame it
XXCoderArtesian3D: fan on stepper
Artesian3DI just put an ice pack on it
Artesian3Di dont have a fan I can quickly mod in there right now
OdonayArtesian3D: point a fan at it and surround your print to prevent the draft from causing warp
Artesian3Doh its ok
Artesian3Dit's a rostock
sprrocketI know you know what you're doing but I'm still going to suggest untightening the belts just a bit and turning down vref a bit
Artesian3Dthe motor is 2 feet above the print
Artesian3Dsprrocket: not the mendel
Artesian3Dthis is the romax
Artesian3Dmendel we arent dealing with tonight
Odonaylol I built a Rostock one time
Artesian3DuntiL I rebuild the Z
Odonaything couldn’t calibrate at all
Artesian3Dive built 10 of them
Artesian3D9 for clients
sprrocketI stand by my suggestion :P
Artesian3Dtheyre a bitch to calibrate
Artesian3Dbut this error is new
Artesian3DI am guessing it has to do with motor just running a lot
Artesian3DI am doing FAST retracts
Artesian3Dthat's probably my bad
Artesian3Dbut it produced GORGEOUS Prints using these settings
b3nt0thanks Odanay.. gonna try to see if get more smoke
Odonaylol we bought a Max V2 and it was one of the worst decisions I ever made
sprrocketI don't go by any actual numbers when I'm calibrating my motors, I just change vref until the axis moves smoothly and doesn't run hot
Artesian3DsO I assumed they would work!
Artesian3Dits not an axis...
Artesian3Dit's E
Odonayb3nt0: if you fried the 5v regulator just plug a USB cable into it lol
Artesian3Di used the same settings for that beautiful print
Odonayb3nt0: desolder the regulator to stay on the safe side though
sprrocketah, well, I run my extruder motor a bit hot but not so hot to burn myself
Artesian3Dsprrocket: and if it can print like that, Im VERY hesitant to change any settings
Artesian3Dit doesnt burn immediately
Artesian3Dbut if I kept my finger there, yeah
Artesian3Dthats why I installed a heatsink
Artesian3DI'll get a fan rigged up
Artesian3Di just need to find one
sprrocketStill, you want it to be able to run continuously without getting that hot
Odonaythe only thing about the rostock is that it sounded awesome. 3 steppers moving in sync when it would calibrate bed height and stuff
Odonaybut that hot end was a PITA, I remember having to drive to an advance auto to buy the stupid RTV to put the resistor in the head
Odonayman if the i3 MK2S was $500 I’d buy one but hm
Odonayalso has a 7 week lead time
sprrocketBut, if anything breaks you can just contact customer support and have them ship you new shit :P
Odonayholy sh*t crunch is still here
Odonayyou still selling filament?
crunchi try to
djdelorieOdonay: I put an e3d volcano in my rostock, much better than stock
sprrocketatomic filament?
gthxatomic filament is atomic filament ( good stuff ) and is made by crunch , use code REPRAPIRC for 10% off orders 2 rolls or more
Odonaylol I remember the few times we had people in here trying to tout the filament recycling things
sprrocketI'm still using the v6 Lite, works just as well if you're only printing below 240
Artesian3Dwow that photography highlights how bad the old prints were
sprrocketTHAT'S the heatsink you have on it???
Artesian3Dthose Z starts
Artesian3Dsprrocket: ??
OdonayArtesian3D: how is that adhered to the stepper?
Artesian3Dnot enough?
sprrocketthat's huge
Artesian3Dthermal adhesive
sprrocketit shouldn't be overheating
XXCoderhopefully there ah so it has that
Odonaysprrocket: no that’s not where you want it
Odonayyou want it on the side, not the back
OdonayArtesian3D: ^
Artesian3Dwell see the giant 120mm fan
Artesian3Dit isnt too hot to touch now :)
Odonayyeah that’s perfectly fine
Odonayit’s just the hot points on a stepper should be the side not the back
Artesian3Dok i will move the heatsink
Artesian3Dor REMOVE the heatsink
Artesian3Dif the fan does enough
Artesian3Dwe shall see :)
OdonayI’d move it
Artesian3Dso far no stalling since I installed the 120mm fan
Artesian3Di also slowed the print by 20%
Artesian3Dthe retracts really must be killing it
Artesian3Di was also printing a bit too cold
Artesian3Dcan that affect it negatively?
Odonaylol mmm nozzle ooze
Artesian3Dbackpressure on the extruder??
OdonayArtesian3D: if it’s too cold to the point that the filament is difficult to feed into the hot end
Artesian3Dit wasnt, but over 4+ hours
Artesian3Di think it took a toll?
Artesian3Dlots of little factors
Odonaypotentially but probably not
Artesian3Di think just job length is the major factor here
Artesian3Dthe motor hadnt been taxed this much
Odonayone of the best investments I made back in the day was an IR thermometer
Artesian3Dyeah i want one so bad
Odonaynot very expensive
Artesian3Doh not that
Artesian3DI mean a FLIR camera
Odonaylol yes those are kind of expensive
Odonayhow are the lulzbot printers these days?
Artesian3Dodonay, overpriced
Artesian3Dbut they were always good designs
Artesian3Dminimum FLIR im seeing is like 220 dollars
Artesian3Dand that's the worst possible quality one
b3nt0turns out you can bypass the arduino regulator yay!
Odonayyou don’t need a FLIR for a 3D printer lmao
Artesian3Din general you have to admit it would be super helpful
Artesian3Dfor strain analysis, nozzle diagnostics...
Artesian3Dlots of things!
Artesian3Dtemp validations
Artesian3DI could use it probably 1-2 times a week
Odonayyes but $350
Artesian3Dmaybe for the holidays I'll buy myself one
Odonaybuy another A8
Artesian3Dand for fun around the home/office
XXCoderso expensive
Artesian3Dgreat idea with the fan btw :)
Odonay“cooking my steak w/ a FLIR"
Artesian3Di remember I used to do this wayy back in the way back
b3nt0is there a command to reverse x in gcode?
Odonaylike reverse your X stepper direction?
Artesian3Db3nt0: id do that in firmware
Artesian3Dwhat's the best way to permanently mount this thing to my romax?
Odonayor flip your stepper wires lol
Artesian3Di need like a big clamp
OdonayArtesian3D: zip ties
Artesian3Dlol ok
b3nt0Artesian3D thanks, guess i will just reverse the cable
Artesian3D^^ that was odo's idea
Artesian3Dbut yeah
Artesian3Di do that sometimes when I must
Artesian3DSo the failure mode that I witnessed, just to check again...
Artesian3Dthe gears grinding and not extruding...
Artesian3Dthat was definitely motor overheating right?
Odonayif it’s making noise yea
Artesian3DI wanna make sure if I walk upstairs im not forgetting something else
Artesian3Dfor sure
Odonaythat’s not gear grinding that’s just the stepper stalling
Odonayunless you can audibly hear gear grinding
Artesian3Dwell yeah, gears not moving, screechy sound
Mikeeegear grinding will show up on the filament as a giant chunk taken out
Odonayyep stepper stall
Artesian3Dright, it wasnt a plasticy sound
MikeeeArtesian3D didn't you say you turned currents way down?
Artesian3DMikeee: mendel Vs. romax
Artesian3DMikeee: this is the romax.
Artesian3Dit has been a little angel this past week
Artesian3Dbut I gave it a 10 hour job and 4-5 hours in, it started this
Artesian3Dso had to slap a fan on the extruder area
Artesian3Dim rebuilding the mendel as we speak
Artesian3Dgot the new parts all printed
OdonayArtesian3D: time to buy a stratasys
OdonayArtesian3D: only $35,000
Artesian3Di know right
Artesian3Dsomeone almost gave me one
Artesian3Da used one
Odonayyou don’t want one
Artesian3Dbut then they said stratasys forced them to incinerate it
Odonaythey are so locked down
Artesian3D^^ exactly
Artesian3Dyou cant recycle them
Artesian3Dthey refuse to let anyone have it
Odonay100% useless
Artesian3Dafter its used
Artesian3DI was so angry
Odonayand stratasys owns the patents on all the cool things
Odonaylike the retractable head and blowing hot air on parts as you’re printing
Odonaywhat is bre pettis even up to these days
Odonayugh it’s hard to justify $700 for a printer that I have no practical purpose for
b3nt0is there a gcode to extrude and ignore cold extrusion prevention? to calibrate it?
HrdwrBoBOpar: so buy a cheap printer :D
sprrocketAlright, I'm officially sold on S3D
sprrocketthese supports are beautiful
sprrocketalso that's a huge shame on the Stratasys
sprrocketcould have at least salvaged the parts :/
sprrocketOr hell, reverse-engineered it and slapped a new board on it
sprrocketMy school uses some kind of Stratasys printer and it is insane how much they charge for material
sprrocket@b3nt0, nope. You can turn cold extrusion prevention off in firmware, though.
sprrocket(remember to turn it back on when you're done)
b3nt0found it on the reprap site
sprrocketOh. Hm. The more you know.
gthx => The More You Know => 1 IRC mentions
sprrocketOh, just so you know, Odonay
sprrocket This is what you can do with a cheap 3D printer with an E3D slapped on it ;)
HrdwrBoBtbh the quality of cheap 3d printers these days is incredible
sprrocketPlus a little TLC goes a long way
sprrocketI threw plum couplings and a different inductive sensor on mine, added belt tensioners and such
sprrocketA little canola oil on the filament every once in a while helps, too
jshnaidany reason why this amazon version of the Pruso I3 is so expensive compared to others listed online?
XXCoderit's gold plated
XXCoderseriously think its more plastic stuff
XXCoderand actual wire control
sprrocketI mean I guess the parts are injection molded
sprrocketbut that's the only thing I can see
sprrocketI wouldn't buy it
OparHrdwrBoB: wat
sprrocketIGUS bearings worth it? Or just buy some nice LM8UU's?
jammijust buy nice lm8uu's
jamminice as-in lm8luu
jammithe greater length alone makes the difference
jammiplastic solid-state bearings are good for one thing and that's lower noise
jammiand yes, might be better than the shittiest already worn-out lm8uu's that never saw a day of lubrication
XXCoderjammi: if its made from ldpe that was melted by warm oil, oil gets imgrated in plastic, making it self-lubucating
jammiXXCoder: I know
XXCoderonly issue is how to make ldpe filiment lol
jammiXXCoder: I was referring to un-lubricated lm8uu's
jammior ones just installed with whatever garbage chinese lubricant they came with from the factory
jammiwhich is essentially unlubricated ones
XXCoderI need lubucation for my cnc router and 3d printer :P
jammiit's like lubricating with synthetic honey or something like that
sprrocketRecommendations? :P
jammisprrocket: just get a random bag of lm8luu's on aliexpress
jammiand enough for two sets of spares or something, they're cheap
sprrocketHm, would I just use 2 instead of 4 on my x-axis?
jammiand then use some good lubricant on them and repeat lubrication once a month or more often if you print a lot
XXCoderhow de-lubucate?
XXCodermethod to remove old stuff so new ones work better
sprrocketI'd guess wipe 'em down with alcohol until the cloth comes off clean
jammiXXCoder: any grease solvent that doesn't damage the parts it comes in contact with works
jammiisopropanol alcohol is fine
XXCoderka rubbing achcol?
sprrocketyeah 'bout 70% strength is the usual strength for rubbing alcohol
XXCoderit is
jammiI use bottled lim(100%) pure spray isopropanol
jammithe cleaning fluid of pneumatic brakes (of big trucks and buses) is also pure isopropanol and cheap per volume
jammiice-prevention, not cleaning fluid
XXCoderI remember reading about very cheap way to make deicier for car
b3nt0Hi, been looking for the command to set the Z offset for calibration can't seem to find it anyone know it?
XXCoder1/3 water 2/3 isopropyul
XXCoderso essentally 66% I guess
XXCoderone guy cations against it because it affects plastics
XXCodervingear has issues with rusting
XXCoderb3nt0: hmm firmware does have seting but not too sure on gcode to set offset
XXCoderhm guess not
XXCoderM206 [P<offset>] [T<offset>] [X<offset>] [Y<offset>] [Z<offset>]
Artesian3Dthe 10 hour part :)
Artesian3Donce I cooled the motor, the whole top of the print looked a ton cleaner
Artesian3Dso thats interesting
Artesian3DVanessaE: mendel is re-assembled
Artesian3Dit is impossible for the isolators to shift sideways now
Artesian3Dsetup looks clean.
Artesian3Dprinting a part now
Artesian3Dit is so much quieter
Artesian3Das it's not slamming the isolators with Z lift
VanessaElooks nice!
VanessaEthat's basically what I was aiming for :)
jammiXXCoder: I think the water in them comes just from condensation
jammiXXCoder: in the pneumatic brake application
jammibut what kind of deicer would you use on a car; like, what's the application?
jammiwindscreen washer fluid?
XXCoderrubbing alchol and water apparently
jammiyeah, but for what?
XXCoderdeicing car windows
jammicovering them with blankets before they freeze is one option
jammior leaving a window a little open to let the steam escape
jammiif you mean avoiding scraping the inside windows
XXCodernah outside
XXCoderI use brass scaper usually
XXCodermetal is soft enough not to damage windows and takes ice off pretty well
jammiin my case, I just start the car, turn the rear window defroster on and let it idle and once it starts blowing at the windscreen it melts. meanwhile, there's plenty of brushing snow and scraping side windows
XXCoderheh this region is almost immune to snow
XXCodervery cold sure, just no snow
jammiand then I just brush the windscreen clean once it's molten
jammior "clean" of any bigger chunks. the windscreen wipers do the rest
jammiwould take a helluva lot of isopropyl to deice the windows with that
jammiover the winter
XXCodermost times ice here is "powder" type and easy to scape off with brass scaper
jammihence just engine waste heat put into use and some mechanical removal
XXCoderjust few times, expecially in slightly warmer ice old days, ice can be tough
jammiI've ever only used plastic scrapers
XXCoderit makes for huge difference
jammiand they're great per se, and I might be spoiled beacuse there are so much of the good stuff around
jammion some old cars, I've found some metal scrapers, but I don't think anyone has used them since the 1970's or so
XXCoderyeah bec has to be careful to never dent one
XXCoderdent can make straches
jammilike, really old cars. like some 70's cars I could afford when I got my driver's license and before, to use on the fields
jammiwhich is one of the nice things about growing up on the countryside; lots of space for activities
XXCoderif I ever get a house of my own
XXCoderit would be small house with huge shop\
jammiI'd need at least 100-200m to the closest neighbor
XXCoderthat's easy
XXCoderbuy BIG cargo boat
XXCoderturn it into giant home and shop
jammiand put it where?
XXCoderfloat off
jamminah, really high maintenance costs of those
jammialso, all the sea ice to deal with
jammior to not deal with, like taking it up on land for half a year like most do
jammiand it's also about the logistics
XXCoderI MIGHT do the boat thing if I'm REALLY rich, not merely rich
jammilike having an address to deliver the china stuff to, water and sewage, electricity and fiberoptics for internet
jammiI wouldn't. I'd just get some fast sportscar equivalent boat with seats for two or four
XXCoderprobably not. it would cost so much in order to convert one
jammiand have the lot at a seashore, with the workshop bunker dug at least half underground
jammiand an underground tunnel connecting it with the house so I'd not have to deal with the outdoors too much
XXCoderwhy do it halfway? bure it completely and save heat and cool costs
jammibecause venting, natural light and such, and the option to open the roof up to get in with the man-transport multicopter
XXCoderhonestly reason people dont do it more often is because of diffulities keeping it nice and dry
jammidrainage of the foundation and surrounding lot is one of the important things to prep a building
jammiwhether underground or not
jammiincluding pumps, if the foundations go lower than groundwater
Artesian3DVanessaE: its worse than ever
Artesian3Dsince unbinding the Z axis
Artesian3Dit looks worse than ever
Artesian3Dits SOOO wobbly
Artesian3Dit never did this when I had a locked Z
VanessaEactually, I'd say that looks a lot more consistent than it used to be
VanessaEhowever you're right about the severity of the ridges
VanessaEdid you turn off Z lift?
Artesian3Dyes its off
Artesian3Ddimensions are good
Artesian3Dit didnt Y shift
Artesian3Dit "Sounds" normal
VanessaEwell that's a plus at least
VanessaEsomething is still dragging the X carriage around
Artesian3Dthe fact that it's not attached to Z
Artesian3Dis what
Artesian3DI can boost its current?
Artesian3Dlets try that
Artesian3Dor wait
Artesian3Dwe already did
VanessaEyou shouldn't need to do that.
Artesian3Dits .31
Artesian3Dyeah we shouldnt
XXCoderis there wires to bed? I wonder if its drag is messing with it
Artesian3Dyes wires to bed
Artesian3Dbut theyre loose
XXCoderyeah not it then
Artesian3Dhardware wise the axis has never been smoother
Artesian3Dwhoever said to use PTFE oil was a genius
Artesian3Dthe rail feels sooo good
Artesian3Dit was never this smooth to move
Artesian3Dwhat else do I even try now?
VanessaEyou have to look for anything that could make the X carriage move around
VanessaEincluding if your Z isolators are "grabbing" or dragging on the X ends somehow
Artesian3Dhonestly if you want me to instantly remove the wobble, i'll just rebuild the captives
Artesian3Dthe "Grabber" has a 9mm bore
Artesian3Dor 8.75mm rather
Artesian3Dso it doesnt grab too tightly
VanessaEwell if that'll work sure
Artesian3Don the Z smooth
VanessaEoh yeah
VanessaEthat would do it then
Artesian3Dit should be tighter?
Artesian3Dits not a bearing
Artesian3DI dont trust PLA to behave well enough
VanessaEit should have nearly zero gap
VanessaEotherwise you get backlash
Artesian3Dits .25mm
Artesian3Dincluding slop from the print
VanessaE.25 is way too much
Artesian3Dwhat if it was .1?
VanessaEthat would help sure
Artesian3Dbecause I did .1 and it didnt move
Artesian3Dit just gripped them and fucked up the movement
VanessaEbut can't you get a proper ACME nut for it?
VanessaEok then try pre-loading the existing nuts
Artesian3Dokay wait what
Artesian3Dso we need pre-load now?
Artesian3Dit'll be 2 weeks to ship me new acme nuts
Artesian3Dassuming they even fit
VanessaEyou could do it with printed nuts
VanessaEremember the Z isolator I showed you with the two nuts in it?
VanessaE(and the sping)
Artesian3Di do not believe it would work
VanessaEit does.
Artesian3Dthis is just another more complex costly change...
VanessaEat least for M4 nuts/threads
Artesian3Dhow do we need to be doing this you know
VanessaEnah, not costly at all
VanessaEyou can do this with printed parts and a couple springs
Artesian3Dit made this
Artesian3Dwith captive Z
Artesian3Dtell me that's wrong
VanessaEit looks good.
VanessaEI mean you could go back to that
Artesian3Dmutley had floating Z too, so there must be a logic to it..
Artesian3Dbut it's confusing to me why the parts look much worse now
Artesian3Dand the only explanation is that now X can go wherveer it wants on the floats
VanessaEfloating Z means if you bump the print, the X carriage can ride up over the bump
Artesian3Dand before it was super super locked in
Artesian3Dbut it did that before
Artesian3Deven with a locked one
Artesian3Dand that is true
Artesian3Dit can
Artesian3Dok so...
Artesian3Dwhat about locking the top of the leadscrew?
VanessaEif X can go "wherever", then your Z smooth rods and bearings are NOT constraining it
Artesian3Dback inside a bearing?
VanessaEyou could try it
VanessaEbut the bottom line is X is moving around and Z rods/bearings are not constraining it.
Artesian3DI cant find the bearings :(
Artesian3Dtheyre the only 2 with a big enough bore size
Artesian3DX is superrr steady
Artesian3Di cant move it a micrometer by hand
Artesian3Dis my voltage too high now?
Artesian3Dim at the end of my knowledge here
Artesian3Dahead is more complex CAD with this backlash protection thing
Artesian3Djust another piece to weigh down the axis
VanessaEyour current is fine
VanessaEif you can't move the Z carriage laterally, then something's making it vary vertically
VanessaEcould be those slightly-loose ACME nuts
Artesian3Dpushing too much plastic?
VanessaEnah, that wouldn't make this kind of pattern
VanessaEit has to be something associated with the Z threads
Artesian3Dim going to undo some of the weird unrelated changes we made back before we found out the idler was an issue
Artesian3Dlike infill acceleration
crunchArtesian3D u fix your printers?
Artesian3Dcrunch: rostock works great
Artesian3Dhad to cool its motor and change back to top bowden
Artesian3Dmendel... is... close?
VanessaEclose yes
VanessaEget rid of that z wobble and you're golen
Artesian3Dand if it doesnt slam
Artesian3Dbut it hasnt in a while I guess
Artesian3Dwell it sorta did 3 prints ago..
Artesian3Dbut that might have been from unseating on bed
Artesian3Dthe calibration steps are a decent test
Artesian3Dthey have that bridge parameter
Artesian3Dlots of complex geometry
Artesian3Dforcing the axis to go back and forth a lot
VanessaEif the part dislodges from the bed, all "nozzle slam" tests are invalid at that point
Artesian3Dits a good samp
Artesian3Di cleaned the bed, hasnt been an issue
Artesian3Dwe have a lot of cooling that I guess we didnt before
Artesian3Dproperly angled fans pointed right onto the printed part
Artesian3Dthe nozzle is super well insulated though
Artesian3Dso there's no chance it's a mis-read causing over-heating
Artesian3Di mean good luck blowing air into that bundle
Nebukadnezai want a non-untunable printer :(
Artesian3DVanessaE: what do I try next if this doesnt sort itself out wth slicer settings?
Artesian3Dits late so its gonna be tomorrow-ish, but still
VanessaEI don't know :-/
VanessaEI'm out of ideas now
Artesian3Dif I rebuild the captive carriage..
Artesian3Dand THEN the Y slip disappears
Artesian3Dwill it be the fact that in the middle of this I fixed the IDLER?
Artesian3Dand that was really at fault the whole time?
Artesian3Dat least for the messy Z artifacting..
Artesian3Don the left sides of prints
Artesian3Dlets keep doing this for now and see if the Y slip is truly gone on all parts?
Artesian3Deven if they are wavy :/
CudaTPU rubber bands are impressively good. is there any printable TPU, that is this stretchy? (about 10:1)
Cudaor is it all just squishy?
XXCoderprintable rubber would be interesting.
jammiwell, not rubber-rubber
XXCoderdont think real rubber is printable
XXCoderdifferent material properies
jammibut yeah, printing tpu and other flexibles are things you pretty much need a direct extruder for
jammiXXCoder: I mean real rubber is a shitty material
jammiit's not very durable, it breaks down with age and they still haven't figured out a way to devulcanize it into a stable form
jammieither turns rock hard or back into goo with age
jammi*to vulcanize
XXCoderya was about to ask lol
XXCoderyeah though rubber has some wonderful applications
XXCoderanyway theres probably rubber-like plastics
jammisilicone, tpu and so forth for all the flexible applications
jammisilicone condoms would be better than latex ones, but there's some approval bullshit required, which is expensive
HrdwrBoBhoses are complicated.
HrdwrBoBthere is a lot that goes into manufacturing proper hoses
XXCoder3d print a tool
gthx => 3D Printed Turbine Rotary Tool => 2 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubesup folks
XXCoderhey the hbex
TheHexaCubeweeee i was at my company today
TheHexaCubeand i got free stuff!
Jermaine66nice :)
Cudalol, "3d printed rotary tool" 30 sec in .. wait, where did that lathe come from?
XXCoderhe uses lathe normally
XXCoderthink he wanted to try prnt stuff for lols
XXCoderand cr-10 was review unit
XXCodertoo damn bad I dont have decent machinist or printing channel.
TheHexaCubewooo i also learnt that the company is market leader in CNC machines for power trains
XXCoderone you work at?
TheHexaCubestarting in september
XXCodersteal one for me
TheHexaCubethey showed us around the company today, it's just mind blowing how large their machines are
TheHexaCubeGP1050, four of them next to each other
TheHexaCubewait that's not the right item
XXCoderheh there is couple machines at work where table is larger than most beds (though narrower usually)
TheHexaCubeuhh, name i mean
TheHexaCubeand the BEST thing is
TheHexaCubeI can get things made there, for personal use
TheHexaCubeso it's basically a huuuuuge makerspace :P
TheHexaCubeCNC bending presses
TheHexaCubelaser cutters
TheHexaCube5 axis cnc machines :P
TheHexaCubecheap food!
XXCoderyeah can use machines at work for personal also, just ya know machines is nearly always busy.
TheHexaCubehah yeah
TheHexaCubethe machines here actually can run autonomously for a weekend
TheHexaCubeno human interaction needed
TheHexaCubethey have access to 1200 tools
XXCoderper machine?
TheHexaCubeno, 4 machines total can access those 1200
XXCodershared tool pool? interesting
TheHexaCubeso, each has 200, and then there's an external pool with 1000 tools
XXCoderinteresting. it must be higher end than even the a61 cell at work
TheHexaCubebut they're multi million dollar machines too
TheHexaCubeautomatic part changing
XXCoder$5 million for a61
XXCoderthose may be twice that
TheHexaCubethat's actually expensive D:
TheHexaCubeit looks tiny
XXCodera61 is 2 workstations, train pallet system, and 2 horzional mill cnc machines
TheHexaCubeohhhhh okay
TheHexaCubenevermind then
XXCoderaaaand only 4 axis
TheHexaCubemaybe I looked at the wrong image
XXCoderyours seem to be 5 axis
TheHexaCubethose universal cnc machines actually are the smaller business
TheHexaCubethe biggest business (70% of money made) is with uhhh... LARGE cnc machines
TheHexaCubelike, gantry style
XXCoderthat small machine is probably high end of thousands ( 800,000 or so) up to over million dollar
TheHexaCube1/3rd America, 1/3rd europe, 1/3rd china
XXCoderyou mean cnc router?
TheHexaCubewell, it has a different name in german so i'm not sure
Mangy_DogHi could do with poking a few brains... im considdering building a hypercube based 3d printer from scratch. As it seems to be the cheapest and highest quality option going for me at the moment... But I wanted to know a few things first. Anyone happy to help?
XXCoderis it like bed with gantry moving up and down it?
TheHexaCubeXXCoder: i think so, yeah
TheHexaCubei didn't see any, though.
XXCodermangy usually its not good matters to ask to ask a question
XXCoderjust ask away, asking that questions forces us into commitment that may not be able to do
XXCoderexample of router
TheHexaCubeXXCoder: yeah, just larger
XXCoderthere is many different designs but generally same thing, bed with gantry moving up and down
Mangy_Dogok the original hypercube design uses 1 Y axis motor to level the build tray... is that really stable enough? Shouldnt there be another on the oposite side of the tray to keep it stable and not "top heavy"?
XXCoderlol I used to run one that I could park my car on it
Mangy_DogIf so, when putting a second motor on, Do you simply splice the cable and mirror? Or does the second motor need its own driver?
Mangy_Dogor... can one motor belt drive the second rod?
XXCoderI cant completely answer but this I know, don't splice steppers, you need seperate driver each stepper
XXCoderyou can configure such in firmware but to what extent im not too sure, im sure its possible since my printer uses 2 z steppers.
XXCodernot hypercube
XXCodersince there is many hypercubes I can infer that it works
TheHexaCubeand there's a shitton of companies where i can get cheaper stuff just because i work at that company
TheHexaCubecar repair - 15% off
TheHexaCubeelectric tools - 10-30% off
XXCodernever owned one so no idea quality so on, as I only own one rather shitty printer
TheHexaCubeI can also buy stock material straight from the company
XXCodernice though not always cheaper that way
corecodeXXCoder: you need separate drivers?
XXCoderI got quote from cpompany on alum blocks and other places was way cheaper
Mangy_Dogyeah i was looking at one of the cheaper options on ali... the aluminium A frame ones... Even at 150 quid I realised I could build a hyper cube based one for cheaper...
Mangy_Dogif i source all the bits myself
XXCodercorecode: one stepper per driver
corecodewhy is it called hypercube?
Mangy_DogCorecode, I assume its the current load...
Mangy_Dogreason why 2 drivers 2 teppers
Mangy_Dogits just what the designer called it
Mangy_Dogas it has a cube frame
XXCoderrather unusual system for X and Y
Mangy_Dogwith an internal build platform, kinda looks like a hypercube :p
corecodeso BS name
XXCoderMangy_Dog: there is variant on cr-10, it uses same system but for X and Z, and y is seperate axis
corecodeisn't it just a core xy?
Mangy_Dogits just a name :p
Mangy_Dogyeah the cr10 is another one i looked at but too pricy for me
XXCoderfor me too though I decided to go for kickstarter because tired of infinity fixes
gthx => HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C => 6 IRC mentions
Mangy_Doghehe good bot
corecodeget china printer set
corecodeget e3d hotend
Mangy_Dogthats an expensive route
corecodemaybe get titan extruder
Mangy_Dogcompared to building from scratch
corecodeif your time is worth nothing, sure
Mangy_Dogyeah worth nothing :>
corecodewell then you shouldn't buy material either
corecodeyou should try to scavenge everything from trash
XXCoderoverhaul for flsun looks... interesting.
gthx => FLSun i3 OVERHAUL by Choutos2 => 1 IRC mentions
Mangy_Dogtheres limits :p
corecodemaybe collect aluminum cans and melt them
corecodeand chissle a solid frame
Mangy_Dogi would be building a forge for aluminium casting down the line
corecodechina printer set can be had for <$200
corecodei don't think buying parts separately will be significantly cheaper in the end
Mangy_Dogtoday im researching and pricing up parts
Mangy_Doggoing to awnser just that
Mangy_Dogthough from the little look around i did yesterday looks like I might be able to build it for 100 quid
Mangy_Dog100 GBP
Mangy_Dogsaving 50 quid...
Mangy_Dogbut I would end up with a really stable decent printer
XXCoderdid you count nuts and such also? those can be surpising total up
corecodeincluding control electronics, steppers, endstops, bearings, rods, mounts, brackets?
Mangy_Dogcoder thats what today is for
Mangy_Dogagain thats what today is for
XXCoderthough its unfair to compare homebrew hypercube to cheapest shitty printer you can buy
corecodehotend, heated bed
XXCoderthough in least you didnt compare to truly shitty one like toy one
Mangy_Dogwell i guess i compared to things like the anet A8 ( shitty on account of perspex frame) the flisun one is decent.... for a cheapy but A square frame would be more stable over an A frame...
corecodewell i have a delta
corecodeand it's great
Mangy_DogCR10 but only because everyone seems to be raving on about it but at 500 quid... yeah not fo rme
XXCodercore I think I could build 1m tall delta for surpsing cheap lol
Mangy_Dogas for deltas
XXCoderusing only 500mm extrusions
Mangy_Dogtheryre just wrong :p
XXCoderonly big parts shipped and expensive is screws
XXCodercould skip that and use belts
corecodedelta is awesome
Mangy_Dogbecause theyre so complex and confusing? :p
XXCoderso far im hearing its nightmare for tuneup
corecodenot really
XXCoderunless has something like smoothieboard
Mangy_Dogoh thats another thing
Mangy_Dogwhy does a 32 bit arm processor make "better prints" over a atmega?
XXCodermore steps per second max
Mangy_Dogi mean i realise the higher end processor is more powerful
corecodebecause it can do more 32 bit math per time
XXCoderso much faster
corecodemeaning it doesn't have to linearize over larger distances
corecodemore important for a delta
XXCoderlower latency too
corecodehow does latency matter?
Mangy_Dogso for the most part... its a speed thing then? it can just run faster?
XXCodercorecode: it always matters
corecodeXXCoder: why?
corecode3d printers with steppers are open loop systems - there is nothing to react to
XXCodersure but lower latency the faster it can send signals
XXCoderso higher max speed
corecodelatency is just the delay between input and output
corecodeand there is essentially no input
corecodeso latency doesn't matter
Mangy_Dogsooo for my first printer... I really dont need a smoothie :p for the sake of shaving a few minutes off a print
XXCoderhypercube can run on 8 bit system just fine
corecodeso is a ultimaker considered a hypercube?
XXCodersmoothie is over hundred bucks
XXCoderits fancy but most times not really needed
tsal1ultimaker uses a different motion system compared to hypercube
tsal1hypercube is corexy, ultimaker is... well the name escapes me
XXCoderMangy_Dog: if that kickstarter works out and I have nice 3d printer, well I have majority of parts for farmbot :)
corecodeah fair enough
corecodewhat kickstarter?
XXCoder(electrics that is, still need bunch other stuff)
XXCoderosmibian a sec cant spell that worth crap
XXCoderlooks like will make it ti 600% in a while
XXCoderyeah not much care for sleek
corecodeinsta trash in my opinion
XXCoderactually if they never showed it printing I'd be agreeing
corecodeMade for admiring. Designed to inspire.
Mangy_Dogwhen a 3D printer is being designed for the Imac generation...
corecodeno way they will deliver
Mangy_Dogwhen its about desk asthetics over function
corecodemark my words
corecodewon't happen
XXCodercore it wasnt first kickstarter for them
Mangy_Dog"Im a Maker, ra ra ra!...."
XXCoderfirst one was successful
corecodethe first one was a prusa i3 clone
corecode$350 + shipping for a prusa i3 clone
corecodewell, i'll believe it once i see it
XXCoderyeah I can afford the risk though not total gamble
XXCoderi got burned couple times
XXCoderone is simply failure to get someone to produce, and other was scam
corecodeah so you don't learn? :)
XXCoderoff to bed to dream of printers :P
XXCoderMangy_Dog: good luck with your project, hope I helped a bit lol
Mangy_Dogyeah helped :)
Mangy_Dogoh well looking more like a cheap 3d build might not happen... hard to find cheap 3030 aluminum extrusion
jeffdm_homeMangy_Dog: is this a specific design?
gthx => HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C => 7 IRC mentions
Mangy_Dogis what im going to aim for
Mangy_Dogand im stuck at the first herdle... trying to find cheap 2020 extutions that deliver to the uk
Mangy_Dogso far im getting insain prices for the stuff
jeffdm_homeI didn't realize it was designed around 3030
Mangy_Dogthat ones 2020 another versions 3030
jeffdm_homeI don't know anything about UK or even EU extrusion suppliers or 3dp part sellers
Mangy_Dogwhere in the US it looks like i could get everything ro around 30 bucks its going to cost over 50 quid in the uk
Mangy_Dogway over 50
Mangy_Dog20 bucks sorry
jeffdm_homeMangy_Dog: did you see this?
Mangy_Dogno but reading now :)
jeffdm_homeCost seems reasonable to me for what it is, and cut to length at low costs.
Mangy_Dogstill over 50 quid
jeffdm_homeAre you sure that can be done in the US for $30? That seems awfully low price as 3030
Mangy_Dogmaybe the 2020 im a little not sure now
Mangy_Dogbut the amazon in the US is a lot cheaper
jeffdm_homeBut that's 2020 and the profile site I linked wasn't selling 3030 for a lot more
jeffdm_home3030 is going to be twice the weight for same length of material
jeffdm_home~2x more material
tsal1i thought hypercube was 2020 only?
tsal1hypercube evolution is 3030
Cudaany ideas, how to straighten 5mm steel wire? o.o
HrdwrBoBCuda: pull it
Cudathat would take a good few hundred Kg of pull, to get it from coiled to straight
Cudathey make shopping carts from similiar wire :D
HrdwrBoBbut that's how it's done, typically
Cudayea, but i cant go hang a smart (car) from my balcony on a 10m wire. my neighbours are culturally oversensitive
Cudawanna trade 2m of that stuff for copper? ^^
HrdwrBoBso, I'm on a mac (mostly)
HrdwrBoBwhat 3d editor is good?
jammifusion 360
Cudais f360 usable for mere editing, i didnt dig into it, aside from the CAD part
Cudastl/mesh editing
jammiyou can do that as well
Cudaall editing i've done yet was in 123d and meshmixer - often both
Nebukadnezameshmixer is super confusing to me
jeffdm_workmeshmixer is super confusing to a lot of people
jeffdm_workAt one time the only official documentation was YouTube videos with painfully terrible audio.
Odonaylol the Anet A8 is so cheap I kind of just want to buy one for shits and giggles
Cudai have one. with a few minor fixes it's not half bad
Odonayhow hard is it to mount an induction probe to one?
IotaDidn't tighten it enough before use. Hot filament flooded throughout. Tried to undo it after it cooled down (note to self, do it when hot), and it just sheared off.
IotaLuckily I already have a whole new heating part, throat, nozzel, everything in transit.
Cudaeasy, but i dont use one
Cudayea, those tubes break darn easily
Cuda Odonay , easy, you just gotta print a holder
jeffdm_workOdonay: it's best to go to the communities around the A8 and ask there. I suspect adding a probe is pretty easy but you'd want their help anyway
Odonayjeffdm_work: yeah I’m probably not going to buy one if I’m being honest. My days testing/tuning/tweaking/improving printers is behind me (I don’t have time for that anymore lol)
Cudait just replaces the z-end switch
jeffdm_workYou want to update the firmware too
jeffdm_workAnet uses their own board
jeffdm_workI didn't spot a mention of their stock firmware
Cudaaw yeah, i forgot abut that part
Cudai still didnt bother with auto level. takes 10 minutes every few prints for me to do it myself with greater accuracy :D
jeffdm_workI suspect someone's made a firmware set for their board
Cudathink it's called skynet
jeffdm_workWhile sometimes machine-specific communities can go off into the weeds, they're usually good at collecting improvements that work for that machine.
jeffdm_workI don't have autolevelling myself but I plan to experiment with it on my next machine
Cudathe FB groups are .. kinda dumpy, tbh
jeffdm_workThats generic to most FB groups.
Cudahaha yes
jeffdm_workI think FB is a pretty poor platform for a machine community anyway
Cudayou may wanna get the A6 instead, though. it's a bit sturdier, and the better user interface with a dial know saves a lot of time
Cudalol, endless controvercies about shaft couplings and imaginary zwobbles
cranky_homejeffdm_work: s/for a machine community anyway//
jeffdm_workOK for some random chatter
cranky_homenot if you want any sort of log it isn't. things get "losted" by facebook so you can never really find what what/where/when
cranky_homeand even their activity log does "weird", especially in out of time ordering and when content is deleted
jeffdm_worksome other platform is better for that need
Cudaokay .. fuck this wire! :D it's only 3.8mm, but it seems to be spring steel. extremely hard to bend, springy AF, and after getting it red hot, it snaps and scratches glass
jeffdm_workmight be nichrome?
cranky_homesounds like hit, TBH
Cudait certainly is steel
cranky_homeid take a magnet and verify that
jeffdm_workIs it part of the heater?
Cudai already did
Cudano, it's just a coil of very strong wire i found
cranky_homestrange, because a lot of thinner steels dont react very well when heated. they tend to scale and have a rust reaction with the o2 in theair
Cudanot useful in the way i hoped XD might be fun to make some crossbow-thing or so with it
jeffdm_workOK. I remember when WanHao used a stretch of nichrome wire from the heater block all the way up to the cable chain. Like holy shit, dude that's stupid.
jeffdm_workAnd goobers defended it
Cudayeah, nut no. it's some kind of spring steel for sure
jeffdm_workrandom aside
Cudabut no*
Cudajust seeing that tansioned half meter ring sitting there makes me slightly nervous. 10 meters just waiting to uncurl explosively in a spriny, eye-poking inferno
IotaWhat are the little plastic clips called that plug into boards? My probe just has wires, so I'll need to buy some to plug it into the board properly.
cranky_homeive heard them called dupont 2.54mm / .1" connectors
cranky_homethere's also a 2mm spacing one, but the only thing Ive seen used that is steppers with a 6 pin header.
IotaThank you! That looks like the one.
Cudayou 'can' also use .1" connectors from an old computer case, they just come off more easily
IotaNot that this helps anyone else but me. But I found the connector specs as below.
IotaMotor: XH (2.54mm-4pin)
IotaFan: PH (2.00mm-3pin)
IotaEndstop and thermistor: XH (2.54mm-2pin)
IotaThanks for the help.
curlyearsheigh hough
curlyearsOK. I inspected the excisting v1.3 RAMBo in my printer control box. I compared it to the V1.2 RAMBo that I bought from dm. Problem is, the 1.2 version has an oddly shaped daughter board on it, I am told is to provide an interface for USB communications. The v1.3 board has no such daughter board. What do I do with the cables that plug into the
curlyears daughter board, and what do I do with the connectors on the main board that the daughterboard plugs into?
curlyearsla la la . . .
TheHexaCubei wish I could help you :(
TheHexaCubebut I don't know either
curlyearsthanks, TheHexaCube :0
jancoowDoes someone know
jancoowIf I can make a realstic view with onsahpe ?
jancoowwith textures
curlyearsjancoow: I don't think Onshape is meant to display realistic images, though I could be incorrect
jancoowcurlyears: yeah
jancoowI don't have expierence with other drawing apps
jancoowonshape is quite easy now
curlyearsI need to start tweaching myself Onshape
curlyearsit's a WYSIWYG interface, correct?
jancoowit is
curlyearsthat box is not going to print well, dood.
jancoowwhy not :(
curlyearstoo many sharp right angles.
TheHexaCubejancoow: well, it'll probably print okay, but it's easier to print curves than sharp corners
TheHexaCube^ what curlyears said
jancoowI'm going to print it with a ultimaker or zortax
kraegarspeak for yourselves, my corners are sexy AF
curlyearsyou need to add some small diameter gussets in the corners. And it wouldn't hurt of you rounded the outside corners a bit, as well
jancoowoutside corners aren't possible
TheHexaCubecurlyears: it's not a MUST, though
TheHexaCubeyou can print 90 deg just fine
jancoowInside can' but it's very space limited
TheHexaCubebut not as fast and nicely as curves
curlyearskraegar: does your wife know how you feel about your corners? :)
jancoowit's only 1.2 mm thick
kraegarcurlyears: It's one of the things I keep private
curlyearskraegar: I would imagine so
curlyearsjancoow: how do you mean, "outside corners are not possible?"
jancoowi'm trying to design some kind of click-system
curlyearsTheHexaCube: but you're going to have to do considerable post-processing if you print outside right angles, with most printers
curlyears'"click system?"
TheHexaCubehuh? That's new to me to be honest, curlyears
TheHexaCubei wouldn't know why that'd be the case
jancoowcurlyears: so the idea is. A pcb with a corner thingy mounted on the back. Then you can click a 2*2 box on it or 2 2*1 boxes on it (with connector automaticly correct)
curlyearswhenever you make a sudden sharp change of motion with the printhead, a small "blob" of material will form, necessitating sanding or trimming of the litttle "bump" that ensue
jancoowcurlyears: and you can click boxes on each other
jancoowcurlyears: but i'm not sure if that will work with this design
curlyearsjancoow: it can be done. I suspect you'll find it a bit more complex than you originally thought
tsal1you can have blobless corners with the linear advance algorithm
jancoowcurlyears: well not complex. I think it can be simply done with this:
jancoowcurlyears: and then you can click it on the next one
jancoowcurlyears: I only don't know if it will "snap on"
curlyearsfor snap-together parts, the size tolernce on the tabs is highly critical, especially in terms of length. Too short, and the tab won't lock in place, too long, and it will latch, but will nnot hold the parts in tight contact
jancoowcurlyears: exactly
jancoowcurlyears: I can edit it manually aftwards ofcourse
jancoowwith sandpaper
jancoowthere are also 2 6 pin connectors which hopefully will hold it a bit in place. It's not that it have hold a lot of weight
curlyearsjancoow: of course, but that is what I mean by sayying is won't be as easy as you originally thought. You;ll probably have to go through a number of itwerations to get the tabs working well
jancoowI can at least print for free ;p
curlyearsjancoow: sandpaper? *UGH* I hate the thought of sand papering a plastic surface...makes it so damned ugly
curlyearsjancoow: how is it tht you can "print for free?"
jancoowIt will be mounted in a wall socket in the end
jancoowWe have a bunch of zortrax and ultimakers
curlyearsI ihave a couple of vernier calipers, the 6 inch one is repeatable and accurate to .0005", and the twelve inch one to .001"
jancoowbrb dinner
curlyearsjancoow: and you're not required to to provide your own stock material, or at least to pay for what you use?
gthx => Deus Ex Gon&#39; Give It to Ya => 1 IRC mentions
deltaModulatori have an Ultimaker 2+, what are my best options for multicolor / multimaterial printing?
corecodeanybody have numbers for the amount of torque required to extrude various filaments at speeds?
deltaModulatori like the Palette+ but it's 1.75mm only.
nytomg steelcase gesture
nytso nice
Viper168deltaModulator, 1.75 is superior, it works better while often being cheaper and more available
Viper168I'd consider a switch
jstevewhite I thinik "works better" is inaccurate, but it's certainly more available.
Viper168I'd not even want to bother trying to wrangle more than one 3mm filament at a time
Viper168jstevewhite, you get finer control of plastic flow with it
Viper168without geared setups
Viper168it is more responsive
Viper168heats faster and more evenly
jstevewhiteViper168: why would you want an ungeared setup? And how finely controlled it is is completely dependent on the design of the printer
jstevewhiteI think there's one very clear and conclusive counter to the functional arguments: The Ultimaker uses 3mm filament, and consistently produces some of the best prints available.
Viper168you can finely control a thinner filament than a fat one where a tiny movement puts through much more plastic
jstevewhiteAgain, entirely dependent on design.
Viper168you can get similar control, but it's going to be more complicated and expensive to get right
jstevewhitecosts are identical
jstevewhitefor geared extruders
jstevewhiteAnd I wouldn't recommend any other kind
jstevewhiteso shrug
corecodetalking about extruders
jstevewhitegeared>direct, regardless of the filament diameter.
corecodewhat kind of torque is needed?
jstevewhitecorecode: Depends on the nozzle, the temperature, the filament, etc.
Viper168if you have a nice geared setup
corecodei just bought a titan clone
Viper168good luck getting that going as cheaply
jstevewhiteYou can *print* a 'nice geared setup)
Viper168yes with a lot of effort and tuning
Viper168again more complicated
jstevewhiteMy geared and belt driven extruders were no more expensive than a similar direct
jstevewhite... LOL
jstevewhiteno, not at all
corecodejstevewhite: are there any numbers i could look up?
jstevewhiteI did the sasme tuning everyone should do: measure extrusion
jstevewhitethat's it.
Viper168redoing it yes
jstevewhite corecode well, you can look at what folksa re using. I have a pancake 0.9º setpper on my titan
jstevewhite"redoing"? The first time you implement any extruder, you gotta calibrate it. The same way. no difference.
corecodei'd like to get an idea of what torque range is required
jstevewhitecorecode: what kind of hot end?
corecodee3d v6
Viper168regardless, on filament slection alone 3mm is like a dodo
corecodei've seen threads of people talking about different extruder designs
Viper168simply to have options 1.75 is cheaper
Viper168err better
Viper168though it can be cheaper
corecodebut it seems they never start from requirements
jstevewhitecorecode: : here's the one I'm using:
corecodeshouldn't i be able to know right off the bat whether a motor might be usable or not
jstevewhitenot 'better'
jstevewhitenot much good filament is unavailable in 3mm
jstevewhitebut lots of cheap filament isn't availabe in 3mm
Viper168but still, even with a geared setup on both 1.75 and 3mm, you're probably going to end up with finer control on the smaller diameter
corecodeso that pancake has 11Nm holding torquie
jstevewhite3mm works better in a bowden, too, regardless of other factors
corecodebut how much stepping torque does it have?
jstevewhitecorecode: I don't know anyone who provides that information
jstevewhitewith steppers, it's all holding torque
Viper168I'd probably avoid bowdens too unless you really have to use them
jstevewhitewhich would be comparable to full-step torque, if I understand correctly
jstevewhiteAnother questionable assertion :D
corecodenot at speed tho
jstevewhitecorecode: all motors have a torque-to-speed curve
jstevewhitenot unique to steppers
Viper168like when I get dual extrusion I will run a bowden and a direct
corecodejstevewhite: yes, but normal motors have a datasheet that shows this curve
Viper168but still 1.75 because of practicality
jstevewhiteAgain, the "gold standard" in repraps is the ultimaker. A 3mm bowden printer.
corecodewhy are we even arguing this?
corecodethere is no clear winner
jstevewhitecorecode: +++
corecodei have 1.75mm, so i'll stick with this for now
jstevewhiteThat was my point
Viper168hell especially locally, can get a small handful of 3mm, but you can get a whole wall of types of 1.75
corecodei guess melting might be a bit worse for 3mm, because of the area to circumference ratio
jstevewhiteagain, cheap filament, sure.
jstevewhitecorecode: Turns out it's not. You get about the same volume through the nozzle
jstevewhiteeither way
Viper168there's not a hands down winner on all fronts sure
corecodehere locally i can mostly get 3mm when i walk into the store
Viper168but I think 1.75 is ahead
corecodejstevewhite: even better
jstevewhitein cheap filaments, sure.
corecodeduck cheap filaments
corecodeonly a pain
corecodeso say i wanted to go up to 10mm^3/s extrusion rate
Viper168cheap filaments are the only reason I can print reasonably, they don't have to suck
Viper168just don't buy garbage
jstevewhiteI mean, I run 1.75 because I didn't know any better when I started out. If I were building a bowden printer from scratch today ( say, I wanted a high speed printer) I'd use 3mm
jstevewhite3mm+Volcano+corexy, could probably hit 250mm/s print speed across the build volume
fakenullieI'd build direct extrusion
jstevewhiteYeah, you'r enot gonna get 250mm/s with direct
jstevewhitewell, not without a shit ton of ringing
jstevewhiteall depends on the print quality you'll accept.
Viper168at that point why aren't you just running a delta
jstevewhitebecause deltas are a PITA
jstevewhitemore fun to watch
Viper168if ultra light high speed is your goal
Viper168so is any bowden apparently
corecodethat's 17mm/sec, or 0.7Hz rotational speed; on the titan with 3x, that's 2Hz, or 120RPM
fakenullieI'm not getting good quality faster than 40mm/s with bowden either
jstevewhiteNah, I never had any problem with bowden, except flexibles.
Viper168have heard almost nothing but headaches with them, they work ok when you get them right but they can be hell
jstevewhiteOh, I was printing at 150mm/s with a bowden and getting pretty decent quality
jstevewhiteThat's because people only come in when they have problems.
Viper168no I've heard people speaking generally
jstevewhiteNobody shows up to say "Wow, my printer is working GREAT"
corecodelove my delta
Viper168even saying straight bowdens are not even worth it
corecodei know how to tune it though
Viper168that go go floating if going to
Viper168*to go
fakenullieimo delta is not better than ultimaker
jstevewhitecorecode: Sure, so do I. I designed and built one. *shurg*
corecodedoes that make sense, 120rpm?
jstevewhitewould depend on the delta, I'd say, but I'd agree, fakenullie
jstevewhitein what context?
corecode12.7kHz steps with 16 microstepping
corecodetrying to estimate the rotational speed of the extruder motor
jstevewhiteagain, it depends on your use case. If you want to print at 50mm/s, then sure, a direct is fine
jstevewhitecorecode: What's the goal here?
corecodefor extruding 10mm^3/s
corecodethe goal is to have an estimate of torque
fakenulliecorecode: titan with ultimaker stepper does 25mm/s
jstevewhitecorecode: You have to calculate back pressure from the nozzle.
corecodeso that i can look at what motors could be suitable for a geared effector mounted motor
jstevewhitefakenullie: into a volcano, maybe
corecodemaybe DC or BLDC
jstevewhiteoh. LOL
fakenulliejstevewhite: yeah, I mean just movement speed, not extrusion
corecodethere have been some threads
jstevewhiteyeah, lots on the reprap forums
corecodewhere people got really excited about these small geared DC motors
corecodebut in the end somebody tried it and it didn't work
jstevewhiteWell, no, that's not precisely true.
corecodeand i wonder - couldn't you have calculated that before?
jstevewhiteSeveral people have made it work
jstevewhiteit just doesn't provide a clear benefit.
corecodethat guy said the motor got so hot that the filament got soft
corecodewell, 30g extruder assembly would be a big benefit
jstevewhiteKreature got it working with a little dc motor
corecodeah good
jstevewhiteso did I, but I used a tiny geared stepper
fakenullieand switched to growing hot peppers
kritterI feel like I have nothing to print and nothing to dial in anymore
corecodejstevewhite: what's your conclusions?
corecodeviable alternative?
kritterI can print any filament now
jstevewhitelike I said, "insufficient advantage"
corecodeweight isn't an advantage?
kritterI have nothing I need to modify or fix
jstevewhitelemme see if I can find a picture
corecodeor reducing bowden hysteresis
corecodebeing able to print flexible, etc.
kritterMaybe I should write a guide to modifying this printer or something
corecodekritter: you should
corecodegood calibration guides are rare
krittertbh it hardly needed to be calibrated
kritterJust modified a bit
corecodeis that a geared stepper that you added another gear on?
jstevewhiteLOL yeah.
jstevewhitecouldn't find a goddamned hob that fit the geared stepper
jstevewhitebut it works fine
jstevewhiteit's a bit more than 30g - 75g, IIRC
corecodeso why would anybody use a nema17 huge stepper?
corecodeinstead of that
corecodedid you identify any shortcomings?
jstevewhiteit's standard, easily available, the designs are everywhere, you have alternatives
corecodeso seems at 120rpm, the printer essentially has the same pull out torque as it has holding torque
jstevewhitebut if you start with a DC motor, you gotta put an encoder on there. Significant increase in complexity. That one I linked would work fine If I took the time to make a hob for it.
jstevewhitebut frankly, the titan+pancake does everything I need it to do
corecodewell i'd like to get rid of the bowden
jstevewhiteI don't have a bowden :D
kritterjstevewhite, should I write a guide on the monoprice maker ultimate?
jstevewhiteyou've got a delta, though
corecodeand maybe have dual extruders on my effector
kritterAlso, I really dislike bowden extruders
kritterThey have their place
jstevewhitekritter: hard to say :D
SpeedEvilcorecode: Pull-out torque is approximately equal to holding torque until you get to a moderate fraction of the first resonance or so.
corecodekritter: yes!
kritterwell it's also the wanhao d6
kritterand zortrax m200
jstevewhitecorecode: You wanna get rid of the bowden, you're likely gonna have to leave the delta world
jstevewhitewell, it's not exactly the zortrax
jstevewhiteit is exactly the wanhao
kritterEh, close enough
corecodejstevewhite: or figure out a small extruder setup that can sit on the effector
kritterimo deltas are useful only for single filament printing
corecodeah, why?
kritterand can never be effective dual extrusion printers
kritterand never effectively print flex
jstevewhitecorecode: I mean, I'm not gonna say you shouldn't try, I'm just gonna say that lots of motherfuckers ahve been working on the same problem for several years now :D
corecodejstevewhite: sure
kritterDeltas can print single, rigid filaments
kritterand that's all they're good for imo
corecodethat's a very poor argument tho
jstevewhitekritter: Actually, if you switch to 3mm, you can print flexibles in a delta
corecode"progress is futile" style argument
jstevewhitecorecode: Well, I would agree if you were saying somethign that was fundamentally different, but you're saying the same things
corecodei think a lot of people just are excited to try out things
jstevewhite"dc motor + encoder" is a many-times-tried, occasionally successful model that has failed entirely to catch on
corecodebut don't really look at the fundamentals
kritterjstevewhite, interesting
kritterYou should already have a cartesian printer
kritterdeltas should NEVER be your first printer
kritterfirst printer?
gthxfirst printer is Your first printer should be a: Single DIRECT extruder, metal frame, heated bed with PEI surface, all-metal hotend, Cartesian printer, ideally with an enclosure (which can be made with a cardboard box). It should NOT be a delta, nor should it be dual-extrusion. This is a versatile printer which can print any filament, and you will never outgrow it.
jstevewhitedeltas are more fun to watch, tho
corecodeyes they are
corecodealso cheaper
jstevewhiteI decomissioned my delta, tho.
jstevewhitejust to put things in perspective, I printed this part 2 years ago with my first corexy design at 220mm/s in PETG, before I knew any better:
jstevewhiteIt probably only reached 220 on the longest edge, tho; accel was at 3k.
kritterEh, any 3D printer is fun to watch
kritterI still love to sit and look at it
jstevewhitekritter: didn't say they weren't. Just saying a delta is MORE fun to watch.
corecodeyea i need a better extruder - i think that's preventing me from reaching higher extrusion rates
kritterACTION watches 60W laser SLA printer
kritterACTION goes blind
kritterjstevewhite, your PETG taunts me
kritterit says "I'm the filament you don't have dialed in, you fucko"
Nebukadnezai have a delta as first printer
Nebukadnezaafter weeks, it prints like a crapbox
jstevewhitethis is PETG, too, kritter, at about 100mm/s with my old string driven printer:
Nebukadnezawhich is, most likely, a good portion my fault
Nebukadnezaand still slow as hell
curlyearsone thing I am not happy about: is tyhere a way to print surfaces (like the walls of a box, for example) in such a way that they don't havwe the "corrugated" surface finish? Perhapsd VERY thin layer size?
kritterLayer height?
gthxLayer height is best no more than 80% of nozzle orifice diameter and is also The exception is T-Glase which has special settings is and also ahem
kritterFuck you gthx
kritterI wasn't asking you
jstevewhitecurlyears: If that's your goal, you picked the wrong rapid prototyping method
jstevewhitekritter: which one?
kritterWhatever duct-like object that is
corecodecurlyears: you mean the layers?
jstevewhiteI think that one was .16 or so
curlyearsjstevewhite: yeah, that is what I figured...when printing with transparent PETG, will a "wall" of petg allow you to read something through it, or is there too much distortion?
corecodehow do i calculate torque when gears are involved?
curlyearscorecode: yes
krittercorecode, ME degree
corecodecurlyears: yea, smaller layers, or postprocessing
curlyearsyou may not have enough information to calculate torque.
corecodekritter: don't have one, would still like to calculate
jstevewhitecurlyears: but they will only make them smaller :D
jstevewhitecorecode: You have to know the nozzle size and shit before you can calculate required torque
curlyearsOK, I k now about the limolene vapor techique for post-processing PLA....what solvent works best for PETG?
kritterwell, what sort of gears
corecodepetg and solvent are not easy
jstevewhiteThere's not many :D
krittercurlyears, limolene ought not work at all on PLA, does it?
jstevewhiteand limonen + PLA should be a no-go
jstevewhitethat's HIPS
corecodethere are some more exotic solvents that are not so easy to come by, i think
curlyearskritter: accordiong to all the web pages I've seen, limolelne is the solvenr of choice for PLA
curlyearsoh, is that HIPS....sorry, don't get old, it SUCKS (fuckin memory)
kritterlimonene should attack HIPS
kritterPLA has no common, effective, safe solvent
kritterI have tried everything
curlyearsso what do I do to "polish" or mooth a PETG [iece?
kritterPETG is extremely inert.
corecodemaybe an iron?
kritterI am sure some solvent works. I am also certain that you don't want anything to do with it.
curlyearskritter: so I understand, although it apparently doesn't like UV much
kritterShould be fairly UV resistant, but UV won't smooth it
corecodei'm not so sure about the UV problems with pet
kritterit'll haze it
kritterMEK works on PETG?
jstevewhitebut even the solvents for PLA won't smooth it like ABS
corecodeyea where do you get MEK?
jstevewhiteno, PLA
kritterjstevewhite, i tried MEK on PLA
kritterAnd didn't like the result
kritterTHF did work
curlyearsno, according to the data sheet I saw on PETG, when damaged by UV, it becomes very brittle, and falls apart in crumbs
kritterbut THF is not safe
gthxTHF is and are very very unsafe.
kritternor is MEK
krittercurlyears, your academic background?
kritterif you're chem/chem E it's chump stuff
kritterotherwise it's pretty dangerous
Viper168yeah considering your piece would become variably toxic after use
Viper168probably not best
kritterYou can off-gas it by annealing I guess?
corecodecurlyears: trichloroethan + phenol
Viper168I'd not trust much to get rid of it all
Viper168certainly not without having it tested
kritteryou could use xtc-3d or whatever
kritterthat ought to smooth anything
curlyearskritter: I spent 3.5 years working on a BA in technical theatre, then several years studying electronics, then sebverl more years sdtudying compsci, anmd several years in a "roll your own" BA program named "Expressive Arts." about 17.5 years total, of college/university
kritterby filling in the gaps
krittercurlyears, then i would recommend avoiding nasty solvents
curlyearswell, I suffer from fairly bad COPD, so I will probably avoid unpleasant solvents altogether
jstevewhitextc-3d and amazing clear-cast are both great products for this
kritterPETG is a good material
curlyearsI kinda like the limolene-vapor trick
kritterBut smoothing it is not really doable
Viper168curlyears, woo
Viper168copd club
kritterand HIPS is kind of shitty imo
Viper168all the cool kids have copd
jstevewhitekritter: yeah, I hate HIPS. I have used amazing clear cast on PETG quite a bit. Works well.
Viper168because we smoked
kritterjstevewhite, pic?
Viper168and here I am carving stone
jstevewhiteI don't think I have any LOL
kritterI love my vapor-smoothed ABS
Viper168at least am wearing masks
Viper168for the dust
kritterha, here's a real challenge for you
krittersmooth 910\
jstevewhitewhy? I don't mind the layers >:)
corecodei'd like to have a dual extruder, pla and petg
curlyears*I* didn't smoke, but all 3 sisters did by age 14, and both parents did (dad quite heavily), and I often found myself stuck in a moving vehicle with all the windows up, and five people smoking, so I sufered froma lot of second hand and third hand smolke exposure
kritterjstevewhite, i have a specific need for my rebreather
kritterone specific part needs to be smooth 910
corecodebecause petg only supports are difficult to get off
Viper168lol yeah
Viper168I smoked, but probably got it so easily because my parents smoked in the house with us
Viper168and the car
kritterI may have to mechanically smooth it
jstevewhitecorecode: can't use PLA for PETG supports effectively
curlyearscorecode: I own a dual nozzle print head for my TAZ, but I am going to wait until I have some idea what I am actually doing before I mount it
krittersince I really don't know how amazing CC can handle that environment
kritterthen again
krittercurlyears, amazing clear cast
kritterits good
kritterJust probably not really appropriate for my application
jstevewhitecorecode: The PETG remelts the PLA and looks terrible. Even worse than if you just use PETG and cut off the supports. that a sdpray, or a wipe-on product, and who does one purchase it from?
jstevewhiteyou paint it on
jstevewhiteit comes from alumilite, via AMAZON, mostly >:)
curlyearsjstevewhite: got it
kritterbuys amzn
kritterloses all money
jstevewhiteit's also food rated, so
kritterjstevewhite, salt water + hyperbaric?
kritterAlso, salt isn't the only thing we contend with
curlyears\Amazon, huh? I do make purchases on Amazon, but I try to limit them, I don't LIKE the company (though the p[roduct availability ios amazing)
jstevewhiteI dunno; have to check their site
jstevewhiteI love amazon. LOL
kritterCO2, soda lime (caustic as hell), hydrogen sulfide, and many other fun and interesting things
curlyears\kritter: what is that descibing?
kritterhrbanska abyss has god fucking knows what
jstevewhitewell, shit, guys, I gotta run. Have a great day!
krittercya man
curlyearssee ya, jstevewhite!
krittercurlyears, i'm building a rebreather ive put about 4k hrs of design into
kritterprimarily aimed at cave divers
curlyearskritter: for hazmat work, or diving?
kritterCave in particular
kritterand it can be hazmat
curlyearsHS2 is damnably poison, isn't it?
corecodejstevewhite: so i don't get how these mini DC motors would ever work.
kritterin tampa, I dove Sulphur Springs
curlyearscorecode: which ones?
kritterwhich they routed a sewer through in the 70s
kritterdo not dive sewers in the ghetto
kritterdo not do it
curlyearsI'll take your word for that one, kritter
corecodeyour pancake motor has 11Nm holding torque. the tital does 3x gear reduction. rotational speed is negligible, so the pull out torque of the extruder assembly should be around 33Nm
corecodethis dinky 130-size DC motor has about 3mNm, maybe 5mNm torque
curlyearspancake motors are likely to have more torque than standard motors because the diameter of the roto is larger
corecodegear it down to maybe 50RPM and you get say 300x the torque, that's 1.5Nm
corecodehow would that ever work?!
curlyearswhat do you mean, "how would that work?"
corecodehow would you expect it to work
corecode20x factor in torque
curlyearsthe friction losses in such a gear train would probably close to cancel out the torque from the geared motor
SpeedEvilcurlyears: they really don't
SpeedEvilcurlyears: there is loss, yes.
corecodethey don't what?
SpeedEvilcorecode: they don't cancel out. A 1:300 gearbox may result in 1:200 torque, if it has an efficiency of 66%
curlyearsprobably a 2X x 2X x 5X gear train
corecodeSpeedEvil: yea but i'm giving it 100% efficiency in my estimation
curlyearscorecode: then your estinmation will have no relationship with reality\
corecodeit's still way too little torque
curlyearscorecode: kinda makes the estimation worthless
curlyears\too little torque for WHAT?
corecodefor an extruder
curlyearsThe torque output from a gear train is <(input-torque / total reduction) - the vrious losses that are inherent to the system>
corecodei know
curlyearsI wouldn't expect an extruder (for a 3D printer) to require a lot of torue, if there are relaticvely feww frictional losses in the spool feed of the filament
corecodeno, pushing into the hotend
curlyears\I remember one trig problem on a test I took, the instructor told me that at first glance, he thought I had missed the answer to the problem, but aftewr reading my response carefully, he told me that so far as he was aware, no one had ever sucessfully correctly solved that particular type of problem in that particular manner\
curlyearsthen we shared a celebratory joint because I got a B+ on the test
corecodeclap, i guess?
LasivianOkay, anyone havce any suggestions for a home laser cutter?
corecodeThe recommended upper limit for instantaneous torque is 35 oz-in (2.5 kg-cm) for the 1000:1 gearboxes and 25 oz-in (2 kg*cm) for all the other gear ratios;
LasivianI would happily build my own or put one together from a kit, but I only have 3D printer knowledge.
corecodeapart from the atrocious units, that's really dinky
curlyearscorecode: more like syphillis :)
curlyears\Lasiviam: the only real difference is a laser cutter only has to work with 2D motions as oppsed top the 3D printer, which has to deal with threeD motions
Lasiviancurlyears: So i'm guessing a CNC could have a laser cutting head put in place of the cutting head and work just fine?
curlyearsLasivian: essentially, yes. Some people have used surplused XY plotter as a foundation, replacing the pen holder with an appropriate laser assembly. Of course, if you're planningh on c utting anything verty thick, or anything metal, you'll need a much more robust mechanial system than that
LasivianWell, since I would like a CNC anyway it seems that's not an impossible combination of functions
curlyearsone thing about laser cutting: be sure that anyone in the vicinity of the cutter while it is working is wearing approved filter glasses or goggles, or you cuold cause severe eye injuries
LasivianTho i'm guessing having it in an enclosure has benefits
curlyearsso you should be ale to lock the door to keep out unexpected visitors, in your laser cutting room
Lasivian*cuts a box out of filtering polycarb*
curlyearsyes, enclosures help immensly
LasivianNot only to block the laser, but the stink, and having a blower/vacuum for dirty CNC as well. Hrrm.. design time
curlyearsLasivian: you have to use optical filtering medium that filters the correct wavelength for your laser. Goggles made for use with CO2 lasers will not protect from the damaging effects of the beam from an argon laser, for example
curlyearsIIRC, argon gives green light
curlyearsHeNe giovesa red, CO2 infrared, but I am not sure I rember which gas creates blue light
curlyearsI wonder if radon gas can be usd as a lasing medium, and what it's output might be
Lasivianargon I think
curlyearsargon is green, isn't it?
LasivianIs that what you;lre thinking of?
LasivianHeliumcadmium: blue laser emission at 442 nm and ultraviolet at 325 nm.
curlyearsAMD had a 20,000Watt CO2 laser at a facility I worked in about 30 years, that thing was a MONSTER
atoukdid you construct the phase conjugant tracking mirror?
jeffdm_workAMD as in the CPU manufacturer?
Loetmichelcurlyears: 20kW? sounds like at least 4 times folded... i worked on a 10kw one a while back. Funny thing... especially the hydraulics needed to move the cutting table (it could cut up to 30mm sheet steel)
cranky_hometank plate, eh?
jammiAMD used to have some of the most modern manufacturing plants in mid-2000's, then they sold those to buy ATI
jancoowcurlyears: no
RaMcHiPGood morning #REPRAP!
RaMcHiPAfternoon, evening, whatever :D
cranky_homeACTION drools
RaMcHiPI dont drink coffee!!
cranky_homewell FUCK YOU
cranky_homeahhh another amphetamine user eh
curlyearsLoetmichel: this was not for "cutting," so much as for drilling tiny holes in silicon wafers and die
Viper168performing cpu lobotomies?
curlyearsViper168: I was working on a TTL fabrication line at the time.
curlyearsI used to have etched completed wafers that had been rejected for one reason or another of several Intel micorprocessors, a die of an MC68000, and a numer of wafer and die from AMD of various thing. I also had some die of math coprocessors
filadome_a torch lighter that only turns on briefly works well for melting strings
curlyearsThose have all disappeared onm my various moves
curlyearsfiladome_: torch lighter?
filadome_yea, like for cigars
filadome_the torch hits the strings for a split second and melts them
curlyearsyou'd want to have a pretty steady hand to do that, filadome_
curlyearsI remember also getting an MC6809 die, as a promotional gift from Motorla engineers I knew
curlyears*sigh* Anyone online right now who is familiar with the use and configuration of RAMBo bopards?
arthur-_curlyears: man I hear you every day about your rambo it sounds like you are having quite a painful adventure, it's been like weeks
curlyearsarthur: more like a year and a half.
curlyearsright now, my difficulty is thta I bought a RAMBo v1.2 from dm_work, and the printer has a RAMBO v1.3 in it. They are supposed to be electrical virtually identical, and Ultimachine tech support assured me that they were mutually compatible
curlyearsbut there is ibne difference that has me flummoxed
curlyearsthe V1.2 board has a small daughter board that plugs into three different headers on the maion boad, and has twop hears for other cables on the top. The V11.3 lacks the daaghter board, abnd I am not sure how to resolve this
curlyearsarthuy-_ My greatest single problem is that I am a world class procrastinator (I am told this is not uncommon for Aspies)
curlyearsdamn, but it's quiet in here again
curlyearsI suppose you guys know that this channel is my primary social activity
curlyearsI get nervous when things get this quier
curlyearskrae_laptop: !!!
curlyearsjust acknnowledging your arrival kraegar
corecodei think the reason my extruder sucks is that i'm running it at 900mA
curlyearsyou mean the stepper motor power?
corecodeyes, extruder stepper current
curlyearswell, boost it
corecodeyea i suppose i need to
corecodebut by how much?
curlyearstry going up in 100mA steps
curlyearsand don't go above 1500 ma unless you check the electrical specs for the stepper, and are sure it can handle that much
corecodeso far the extruder motor is cool as a cucumber
corecodeand i suspect it might be better to have it a bit warm
curlyears\100ma is a snakll enough step to get you there without wasting too much power, but a large enough step to get you where you want to be quicker
jancoowcurlyears: why do you hate sandpaper btw?
curlyearsnot necessarily "better." the warmth of the stepper reall;y isn't a factor, so long as it isn't runninghot enough to burn itself out (which basicly means, if you can't keep your hand on it when it's working, it is too hot)
corecodesure better
curlyearsjancoow:> I don't hate sandpaper, per se`, I just highluy dislike the surcafe texture it leaves on most plastics
corecodei keep having skipped steps
jancoowcurlyears: well
jancoowdid you try cleaning it with nailpolish remover afterwards?
curlyearsthe skipped steps suggest you are either under-powering the stepper, or attempting to step too fast (or there is something in yo9u motion system, that is binding)
corecodeyea, the filament needs to be squeezed out of a tiny nozzle
corecodecould that be it? ;)
curlyearsjancoow: nail polish is acetone. I haven't actually printed anything as yet, but I HAVE used sand paper on plastics before, and was unhappy with the results
jancoowcurlyears: well what I normally do is if I have to sandpaper something, clean it with acetone afterwards
jancoowmost materials will look neat afterwards
curlyearsthe skipped steps suggest you are either under-powering the stepper, or attempting to step too fast (or there is something in yo9u motion system, that is binding)but only if the plastic involved is susceptible to acetone, whihc many flaiment types are not
curlyearsbut only if the plastic involved is susceptible to acetone, whihc many flaiment types are not
curlyearssprry about that
corecodeabs is
corecodeand vapor polishing gives fantastic results
curlyearsyes, ABS is, but neither PLA nor PETG is.
corecodei dunno
jancoowdon't get me wrong
jancoowit's just to remove the tiny pieces plastic left
jancoowbecause of the sandpaper
corecodei think trying to get rid of layer marks is like trying to get rid of machining marks
jancoowbut idk which materials I use
curlyearscorecode: you can supposedly vapor polish HIPS parts using limolene instead pf acetone
corecodebut why would you use hips?
curlyearscorecode: Who knoiws. There must be something it is good for, or they wouldn't offer it\
corecodeyes, support
corecodeyou use hips for support
corecodeand then drop the part in limonene
curlyearsOK, but how do you use HIPS for supports, if you on,y have a single nozzle printhead?
corecodeyou don't
curlyearscorecode: gotcha
curlyearstime for me to crawl into bed and take a nap
sprrocketowning a 3D printer sure is a good way to beat the crap out of your hands
sprrocketnailed my finger on the edge of the printbed and it took a good chunk of skin off
XXCoderlol nothing like machinist
XXCoderbinch of scars on hands
sprrocketand I just now somehow managed to cut myself with the round edge of a part removal tool
XXCoderand lovely sucuide mark on one of wrists from seriously cutting myself on part
sprrocketstill doesn't beat the one time I managed to cut myself on a pan while doing dishes
XXCoderpan had burr on it?
sprrocketit was a rather thin pan for holding bulk amounts of food, the lip was juuust thin enough to cut you if you were scrubbing a little too vigorously
XXCoderah yes pans. was thinking cooking pans which tend to be fairly thick
XXCoderI used to wash billion of those
sprrocketmy thermistor wire got frayed at the connection
sprrocketnot entirely sure how, it doesn't move there
kritterI had the most painfully Colorado experience the other day
kritterHad to waste some time in a rich-people mountain town, got coffee with someone, she's clearly not white, people get fucking weird
kritterOrdered coffee, and she was lectured for easily two minutes on whole milk by the cashier. She was demanding that she put whole milk in her coffee.
kritterSpoke up and called her a honkey
kritterwill never be called by that girl again
Razaekelyou called the cashier a honkey?
cranky_homehave no clue.. Sounds like we're missing something with that story
Artesian3Dwhats the play here?
Artesian3Dwe seem to have eliminated the Y shift, but the new floating Z isolators make it super wavy
Artesian3Dpart is more or less dimensionally accurate though
Artesian3Dand it didnt otherwise fail in any way
Artesian3Dmaybe some light top solids, but thats easy to fix
sprrocketI don't even know what to guess anymore
krae_laptopMaking real progress now.
krae_laptoptime to put some belts on it
XXCoderyep need to hold pants up
rue_shop3anyone know why slic3r just re-defaults the values I want to change instead of saving the the config file?
sprrocketAre you clicking the little save icon to save the profile after you've made changes?
sprrocket(dumb question but, y'know)
rue_shop3and it changes the values back
sprrocketI dunno :x
XXCoderrue_shop3: sure youre loading correct saved profile?
rue_shop3I'm just trying to modify a value and click save
rue_shop3and instead of saving, it changes the value back
rue_shop3do you know if it does a write-and-read-back thing?
rue_shop3if so, maybe it cant write the file?
corecodeso turns out, printing with a 0.4 nozzle that was sliced for a 0.25 nozzle is... very smooth
XXCodercorecode: pics pr oits rough
Mikeeecorecode larger nozzles tend to mash down and level any imperfections in the extrusion. If it was made for a .25 nozzle, it'll still only push 0.25 worth of filament every line
MikeeeI set my line width to about 90% of my nozzle diameter, it's great.
kritterlarhe nozzles are the shit
Mikeeekritter I love my 1.6
kritterHow's the finish on prints you make with it?
Oparbenchy done
Oparnow what
Mikeeethe 1.6 is for infill, so its never really seen
kritterdual extrude?
Mikeee1.6 infill, 0.4 walls
kritterOpar, i dunno
kritterturn it off and start drinking?
OparYep sounds good
OparI have some coke
MikeeeOpar is it a new printer?
MikeeeOpar first benchy?
Oparhaha just wanted to see if it still worked
MikeeeHaven't used it in a while?
OparNot for like 4 months
MikeeeI guarantee there's a ton of new upgrades for it available
OparI should be trying to finish my cube conversion
OparI think I designed a part for it somewhere..
MikeeeI die inside when my printers aren't running continuously.
corecodeMikeee: no, it will extrude the same volume
kritteri really want to print today
kritterbut what will i print
OparLOL Mikeee
Mikeeecorecode ah so you have a setup that calculates volume via firmware?
OparI have 3 working printers doing nothing 24/7
durrfkritter help me find something to print too
MikeeeOpar you monster
corecodeMikeee: aren't all setups that way?
kritterdurrf, i thought about printing that infamous scuba 2nd stage
Mikeeecorecode I set nozzle in my slicer, via preset profiles I made
Mikeeevolumetric conversion was calculated once manually for each profile, and I create a new one every time I upgrade the head
corecodebut independent, the volume is the same
corecodesame gcode, different nozzle = same volume extruded
Mikeeeoh i just got that you were agreeing with what I said, not disagreeing
Mikeeesorry my bad
Oparok printing something Mikeee
Oparjust 4 u
MikeeeIs it a dildo?
MikeeeThere's a used cube 3 on craigslist for $100 about an hour from where I live
MikeeeI google it and a ton comes up about people all happy about "hacking" it.
kritterthere's a used dildo for about 10 bucks in my town
krittersold by me
corecodesold or offered for sale
Mikeeeany printer can be "hacked" for $20 by just buying a ramps setup
kritteroffered for sale
kritterfor several months
krae_laptopand now it has belts
kritterWeren't you the one who used those sick uhmwpe lines?
kritterwhy not use them
Loetmichelfiladome_: torch lighter as these? -> (just without the crack in the tank :-)
OparMikeee: im sort of hacking it
Oparnew hotend
Oparnew controller
Oparalso enclosure with heated chamber
MikeeeOpar so you have a cube 3?
curlyearsdamn, some bastard changed my nickserv password
XXCoderor anyone that has traffic access
XXCoderbecause irc password is sent clear
curlyearscorecoder: I fluffed a msg to nickserv to identofy me, while on c hannel, and everyonhe saw my password. I guess I should ghave changed itm damn it
XXCoderyou didnt? dang its on you sorry man
curlyears\no, it's my own faukt
XXCoderis it recoverable? and are you admin somewhere?
XXCoderop rather
curlyearsI am here for thirty minutes while my dinner simmers on the stove
curlyearsXXCoder: I am not :(
XXCoderin least channel hijacking possibility is nonexistant
curlyearsXXCoder: indeed
curlyearssomeone must have stolen it just to harass me, fucker
corecodeor to protect you
curlyearshow does it protect me?
corecodenobody else could abuse nickserv
atoukhope it's a different pass than your email or other accounts...
Mikeeedid they do any damage?
curlyearsIt was fine earlier this afternoon
sprrocketHow well would it work to print infill and support material at .3 layer height with a .4mm nozzle?
curlyearsyeah, my emailm etc is a completely different p[assword, which I chose not to use for IRC precisely because this might happpen
XXCoderf7209ab58d 89fc3020da3816405cb52b1116eba880 5def07cf4c1fc975379d3b33b5fa557c1afccadf3fef315c1ec67fd25053fcef
XXCodergonna love password generatpr
Mikeeesprrocket that's fine.
sprrocketCuts an hour off of what would be a 14 hour print :P
curlyearsnaw, I need a password simple enough for me to remember, over time, but complex enough not to be a breeze to break
XXCoderI didnt bother with that
XXCodermy irc password is over 40 digits long lol
kritterirc stars out your password, see? ********
krittertry it
corecodecurlyears: why remember?
curlyearsI didn't come up with a specific password, per se`. I developed a mental algorithm that automaticcaly generates it in my head when I need it
XXCodertry to fool cs bullshitter shame on you
curlyears10 characters
XXCoderlol I typed password for irc exactly once
XXCodernever typed it since
curlyearscorecode: what if I want to connect fropm, somewhere other than my home systems
kritterI use the exact same password for everything
kritterand it's just a dictionary word
MikeeeI use a BNC so I never have to deal with anything
kritterbecause i do not give a shit
XXCoderdictionary word attack not evn a full day of hacking
corecodecurlyears: unheard of
kritterIt could be not even a full minute of hacking and I still wouldn't care
kritteri don't think i even registered this nick
curlyearsXXcoder: maybe, but how likely is anyone to inbvest that much effort for a random password? Unless kritter has something really valuable in his files, it is a total waste\
krittercurlyears, exactly
kritterthey can hack my thingiverse
kritterwherein i upload some garbage
XXCoderunless op of channel or whatever
kritterand often curse at people
XXCoderthat can kill channel
kritteryeah if i was op i'd be much more careful
kritteri'd use a SIX character password haha
curlyearsI have problems with thingiverse...I use Firefox, and after I have viewed a number of items, and downloadfed several, my browsing starts lagging, and I starrt getting a greyed out screen and can't input anything
atoukthey say password is the most used, so I got tricky, and used all upper case. they'll never suspect...
XXCoderthat dont happen to me, but some stuff doesnt work, like 3d preview
curlyearsanyone on IRC that can't tolerate a little foul language is a loser anyway
corecodelol foul language
XXCoderI only know 4 languages
curlyearsatouk: automated password crackers check upper, lower, and nonalphabetic characters
XXCoderenglish, asl, bad english, bad asl
corecodeasl is a language?
XXCodercurlyears: yeah @ for a is just stupid
curlyearsXXCider: and Geek
XXCodercore it is
sprrocketASL isn't english translated into signs, it's its own language
corecodeah, ASL
corecodenot "asl?"
XXCoderyep. one with no written form
gthxasl is NO!
sprrocketoh that asl
sprrocketI assumed he meant sign language
curlyearsASL is defintely a complete language, and has it's own subculture as well. Totally different conversational etiquette.
XXCoderheh anyway ASL yeah
sprrocket's why ASL 'speakers' don't take the usual state standardized tests, because it's often not their first language
corecodewell, like all languages
corecodeand groups
curlyearsI have abyssmal proprioception, so I wasn't able to learn ASL, though I did try
corecodein australia, people say cunt, and it's a normal word
corecodein the US people just get a small heart attack
curlyearscorecode: I believe that is also true in England
corecodeOH NO THE C WORD
XXCoderculture is quite different, you could meet stranger asl signer and know where person is from, what school graduated from, and sometimes where work at in a hour
XXCoderI try to avoid gendered curses because it just sucks
curlyearsyeah, there is a distinct analog of "accent" in ASL
corecodeis cunt gendered?
curlyearsI use bitch to refer to both males and females
XXCodercurlyears: unfortunately I have quite bad accent
XXCodermakes it hard for people to understand me sometimes
curlyearscorecode: in most English speaking languages, "cunt" refers to a females lower genetalia
corecodeyes, but that's a body part
XXCoderI grew up moving to many many states and cities
XXCoderbody part mostly unique to ladies
curlyearscorecode: it is approximately equivalent to referring to a man as a "prick"
curlyearsXXcoder: are you deaf, or someone in your family?
XXCodersomeone in family lol
XXCodermore like most of us
curlyearsdeafness doe often run in the family
corecodei didn't say cunt should be used exclusively for women
XXCoderdepends on cause, my dad was deaf due to mengitis (pre-dates vaccine)
XXCodermy mom is deaf due to waardensberg syndome
Mikeeelesbians and deaf women wear the same clothes
XXCoderall of kids has em
XXCoderokay that is random
XXCoderand no
curlyearsyeah, I came close to becoming deaf, about 18 years ago. I had developed MRSA in the wound for my cardiac bypass, aand the vancomycin (which at that time was the only antibiotic that could even touch MRSA) had an unfortunate side effect: it can destroy auditory cilia, resulting in total deafness
XXCoderow yeah some medicine is pretty dangerous
XXCoderyou'd have rough going for first year or so but you get used to it. apparently
curlyearsthey had to cut my treatment short because my white blood cell count started dropping precipitousaly
XXCodermet few people that was late deafened
curlyearsanother 12 minnutes until dinner . . .
krittervanco is naaaasty
curlyearsO got a letter. My repayment of one "overpayment" is complet4ed this month, so starting next month I'll be getting a $50/month raise...whebn you're only getting $640/month, that is a sizeable raise!
curlyearsI had a plastic shunt in my arm for 3 weeks, was supposed to be 8
kritteri knew a guy who had TDR-TB
kritterthey tried to give him chemo
kritterbut he died lol
kritterI think I have some expired Russian vanco kickin around here somewhere
XXCoderexpired for extra zing
curlyearskritter: get rid pf it, if it is expired it is deadly poison
XXCoderwhy? it's aged like wine ;)
krittertotally drug resistant tuberculosis
kritterand shit is really hard to get
kritterso i'll hang onto it for when i wanna get REALLY high
curlyearskritter: ah...even worse than MRSA, eh?
kritterYeah, brought it up because it's similarly difficult to treat
curlyearsVanco won't give you a high
kritterTDR-TB cannot be treated, XDR-TB is usually treated by chemo
kritteroh yeah? imma mainline it right now
kritterprove you wrong
kritterhere i come valhalla
curlyearsbeen nice knowing you, kritter
kritterI wish I could say it's been nice knowing kritter
kritterI'm actually not sure where I got it
curlyearswell, time for me to go serve my dinner and eat it
kritterXXCoder, being temporarily deaf made me much more sympathetic toward deaf people
kritterplus my hearing is definitely not great anymore, and i hate it when people get mad at me because i didn't hear them
kritterit's so fucking ruder
kritterits some bullshit
XXCoderheh endless issues when total deaf
XXCoderits just part of life I keep going
Artesian3Don my rostock the extruder is definitely still having issues
Artesian3Dit's clicking
XXCoderI met one guy who still have 100% hearing but are essentally deaf
Artesian3Dand the gears stop moving
Artesian3Dwhats going on
Artesian3Dit happens intermittently
corecodeArtesian3D: i had the same
corecodemaybe still have
XXCoderhe got brain damage so his hearing centers dont really work, for example if there is slight noise he can't understand other person speaking
XXCodergroup settings are impossoble
corecodei have extruder skips
Artesian3Dcorecode: its only started the last 24 hours
Artesian3Dmy suspicion initially was the motor getting too hot
Artesian3Dso I am actively cooling it with a dedicated fan
Artesian3Dmaybe its back pressure. maybe my Layer #1 is too low
Artesian3Dso filament is backing up a little biot
corecodeyea that is an issue