Viper168anyone know how they make these diamon burr tools?
Viper168really hot metal rolled in thw diamons, or some kind of adhesive
XXCoderthey make em at child slavery centers at mars
corecode core xz printer
Viper168it'd just be really really handy to have some custom diamon burr tools for stone
corecodeif only they wouldn't use pmma for the bed mount
Viper168make precise parts rapidly
Oparsiderala: print off
Oparsiderala: monday
corecodei like the simplicity of the design tho
thewscorecode: looks ultra wobbly
corecodeyea the pmma doesn't help
thewsthe single 2020 extrusions
thewsthe Z wheels just push from the inside
corecodei don't think that's an issue
thewsthe bed has crazy leverage on both sides
thewsyeah that's a major issue
corecodewhat is?
thews2020 is weak as shit
corecodeextrusions don't bend
thewsdo a test
corecodenot really
corecodethe joints are the problem
thewsextrusions are weak as hell
corecodein my experience they are
thewsput it on granite
thewsbolt one side down
thewsshine a light under it
thewsput slight pressure on it
thewssee how much it deflects
thewshuge amounts
corecodethe effector has minimal weight - i don't think its impulse will deflect the extrusions in any significant way
thewseven just barely bending you pinky finger and touching it
thewsit moves considerably
thewsask ccecil if you don't believe me
thewsmany of us have tested such things
corecodeyea i don't believe you
corecodei've calculated deflection before for extrusions
thewsyou did bad apparently
corecodei guess
thewsI know
thewswaste your time and money, but don't spread it
corecodeso you think no printer should use 2020 extrusions?
thews2020 is fine if doubled up or braced appropriately
thewsand it's a small printer
corecodemy delta uses 2020
thewsbut don't add leverage on it, and if using wheels
thewsgrip it from both sides
thewsnot just one
XXCoderso does my flsun
thewsit'll bend a lot
sprrocketI'm a little surprised I haven't seen more printers with plum couplings on the z-axis
thewsjunk printer?
gthxjunk printer is
thewsI used 2020 on that, but the strength of the printer was from junk melamine wood
corecodewell, i'd appreciate a calculation of the deflection
thewsif you have some test it using my method
corecodeclearly the math needs to line up
sprrocketI'm sure a lot of people would appreciate that calculation
thewstest it
thewsthere we go folks
sprrocketwho needs calculations when you can just throw some shit at a thing and see if it sticks
thewsthere's plenty of static load calculations from vendors out there
thewsjust google it
thewsbut if you want to see a real world test before wasting money
thewsdo the flashlight test
sprrocketI'm still curious as to why more printers aren't adopting plum couplings over those dinky little metal shaft couplings
buZzpiece of airtube works just as fine
sprrocketWhen I was comparing the two it seemed that the metal ones introduced some sort of backlash (for lack of a better term) into the z-axis because they twisted a bit upon movement
sprrocketI've been incredibly happy with my plum couplings without any z-isolators
thewsI shared with you a deflection calculator if you want that
thewswith 2040 and 2kg load, with one end bolted down over 1 meter it will deflect 7.71mm at the other end
thewsquite huge
thewsnow if you add angles or levers on there
thewsit amplifies greatly
thewsand this is static
thewsnot dynamic
thewscan google for a rule of thumb for what acceleration and mass come out to for those loads
thewsmuch higher
thewsand for 2020, that amount is 13.58mm at 1M
Opari want to print a fidget spinner but I can't find the files for any
Oparsaid no one ever
Oparjesus christ I can't find anything but spinners
XXCoderwhat ya seeking
Oparthews: what retraction setting sdo you use on bigd?
XXCoderOpar: also you don't like spinners?
thewsOpar: bump up accel until failure, then reduce by 10-20%
thewsthen try retracting starting at about 0.5mm or so
Opar.5mm o_O
OparI'm at like 2.5
thewsway too much
thewsuse accel, not length :D
OparI'll up accel
Oparfirmware or slicer retract
Oparis firmware retract a thnig
thewsI do firmware
thewsOpar: as sidewalker or dumle for my retract post process if you use s3d
thewsOpar: if you do firmware you can tune it on the fly
thewsput some tall skinny things close together and find tune it
thewsDuckle: *
OparWhat velocity
thewsOpar: depends on your voltage
thewsat 12v I'd cap it at about 11 for safety and up it if you can
thewswhen you crank accel you're much more likely to skip if you go too much higher
thewsput something on the back of your stepper so you can visualize it
thewsif you go to 24v+ you can crank the speed up quite a bit
thewsput a piece of tape on the back shaft
OparI'm using a bigger motor
thewsyour results may vary
OparSo like 750mm/s^2
Valduareugh out of dupont crimps
thewsOpar: I think more like 3000 to 5000
OparI'll start at 3000 and up like you said
gthx => The next generation of Filament reviews: This is Filaween 2.0! => 1 IRC mentions
XXCoderstart of new fili review series
XXCoderwonder will test atomic later
Valduarejust swapped out the steppers on my z axis
XXCoderyeah? what was wrong
Valduarenothing really
Valduarethe steppers I used were some oddball ones
Valduarefound two matching ones in my pile heh
Valduareim trying to figure out this z banding issue
Valduareie on a test cube 3 sides will be phenominal and one side in comparison has some jumbled layers
XXCoderwobble it would be on both sides so not too sure why if one side alone
Valduareya its really weird cause its corexy
Valduareso both steppers are used together for all movements etc
Valduareso its gotta be z issue?
Valduarebut how on just one side heh
XXCoderis it side where layer starts?
Valduarecant actually tell where they start heh
filadome_can vapor polishing make an ABS printed part look like injected molded?
XXCodernot precisely I would think
XXCoderdepending on base quality you may still see layers
XXCoderand it might over-melt, making for super glossy look way behind injection molded would be
filadome_someone asked me to clone their part and make it look shiny:
gthx => ???? => 1 IRC mentions
filadome_the bottom is shiny because it's right against the bed surface
filadome_sorry, i forgot to press publish
filadome_it should work now
filadome_it's about the size of an SD card
XXCoderinteresting. yeah probably doable
XXCodersince its so small you could do it in few methods
sprrocketman, I wish the Anet A8 had been this popular when I bought my 3D printer
XXCodersimpilest i think is dip and carefully sit it so it dont disort and clean off
sprrocketMigbot is basically the same thing but was $300 at the time I bought it
Valduarethere we go just bought a rework station
Valduarenext week i know what i’ll be doing! :P
filadome_fixing apple products like that guy who on youtube?
Valduareapple products dont need fixed
Valduarethey are perfect in every way
XXCoderon being useless too
Valduareyou never hear? :P
jstevewhiteValduare: Got my rework station last week; still in the box. The place it's gonna sit is being taken up by RailCoreII during the build stage. LOL
XXCoderwhat is rework station anyway
Valduareusually refered to as a 2 in 1 combo hotair and solder iron
filadome_can you fix circuit boards?
sprrocketoh, context. ignore me
XXCodernah no thanks im good on regular adult restrooms
Mikeeeso I just bought 3 MP select mini's
sprrocketshare pls
sprrocketalso, why? :P
Mikeee$50 a piece ain't a bad price
sprrocketwish I had $145
sprrocketwait, what
Mikeeecheck the listing
sprrocketoh, damn
MikeeeI also bought a maker select for $80
sprrocketWhen I have a bit of money again I'll probably do some digging on eBay for some broken printers
Mikeeecheck craigslist too
sprrocket tempting
Mikeeeit'll sell for $180
sprrockethow's that?
Mikeeethey have historically
Valduarewhats that flat cable used for on that makerbot mini
sprrocketpretty sure it's for the "smart" extruder
Valduarehope they are not running heater cartridge through that thing haha
Mikeeewhat makes it smart?
sprrocketI think it's supposed to detect jams or if it crashes into the part but we have one at my uni that uses it and it's a piece of garbage
MikeeeI use encoders for jam sensors, they work fairly well
Valduarei would like to play with encoders
Valduareare you using opto sensor and index wheel. or a rotary encoder
MikeeeIt's an optical rotary encoder
XXCoderhey guys
XXCoderis there "slicer" that cuts 3d model into cross sections? for laser
XXCoderin my case it's to draw on cardboard
XXCoderso I can cut em into statue sections
djdelorieopenscad can do that, sort of
djdelorieat least, it gives you back an STL for that layer
XXCoderI once found such a program but it was well before I even started on cnc router, I thought I wouldnt need it so didnt download
djdeloriehmmm... if you ran slic3r with one perim and no infill/top/bottom, I bet you could extract the outlines with some software...
XXCoder interesting
gthx => Metal Casting at Home Part 69 3D Printed Patterns Part 2 => 1 IRC mentions
XXCodercasting is funny
XXCoderit looks like playing with dirt initally.
gthxpc is Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic, it's strong and impact resistant (It's used in the making of bullet proof glass) temperature resistant and it can be extruded (at the right temperature). It can be bent and formed while cold without cracking or deform and it is also very optically 'crystal' clear, but it's actually not very easy
gthxto keep it clear during extrusion.
pete1seen digiFab?
gthxSorry, I haven't seen digiFab.
sprrocketI think I figured out why I keep getting layers in my prints that look like underextrusion
sprrocketWhenever I bump my desk the whole damn thing moves
sprrocketprobably not the best situation for a 3D printer to be in
cheetah2hello my 3d printer is grinding it wants to go off its frame
cheetah2how can i set the home position?
HrdwrBoBsounds like an issue with your end stops
phillidSounds like it's become sentient
cheetah2i dont have endstops because its a cnc
phillidI warned you self-replicating reprap guys about this day
cheetah2that white circle on repetier thats the 0,0,0 coordinate right?
cheetah2im afraid my 3d printer is going to break its grinding it wants to print out of its range
sprrocketyour printer can't not have endstops
XXCodersprrocket: 3d printers all need endcaps but normal cnc machine it depends. I manually home my cnc router.
cheetah2yeah this is a cnc
cheetah2it says on the site its not supposed to have endstops
cheetah2so is there a way i can set a 0,0.0 on repetier?
cheetah2it wants to go under the build plate it lifts itself up
cheetah2i have a mpcnc
cheetah2how does repetier calculate the 0,0,0
cheetah2is it where the printer happens to be when you hit play or what?
krittertis a sad day
kritterthey took most of futurama off netflix
XXCoderall 3d printers use endstops to find machine zero
XXCoderno exception
kritterHm, can we design an exception?
cheetah2wtf why are they saying mpcnc can 3d print then?
kritterXXCoder, camera as endstop
cheetah2hey is anyone interested in metal 3d printing in steel?
XXCoderobsidian have reached 6x kickstarter asked
XXCodercheetah2: what was you controlling mpcnc with anyway
cheetah2repetier host
XXCoderyou was manually setting home?
XXCoderor just part coord?
cheetah2no im clicking the buttons to move it manually
XXCoderaha ok
cheetah2theres a set home button but it doesnt seem to do anything
krittercheetah2, ask markforged
cheetah2im gonna turn it into a steel 3d printer with a mill and welter combination
cheetah2cnc quality steel 3d printer
XXCoder3d printer tend to need to be light and fast
cheetah2yea but im reinforcing the mpcnc
cheetah2i like mpcnc because its easily expandable in the axes
lowridah_'bachelor kitchen'
XXCodertoo bad I donr have bachelor place lol
lowridah_way too much crap to have in a kitchen
lowridah_it'd be in a garage if i had one
XXCoderhav you used that xcrave recently? lol
lowridah_it's a shapeoko3, and yea
lowridah_using it as a laser engraver lead to buying the co2 laser above it
XXCoderlooked like just pile of stuff on it but cool
lowridah_i just got it moving right with smoothie so i got it all moved into place
lowridah_it's got crap on it because it just got moved
XXCoderyou might be interested to know that there will be kickstarter of board to replace chinese board controlling one of your laser thing
lowridah_i have a smoothieboard drop in alraedy
XXCoderoh cool
lowridah_cohesion 3d, it was super quick
XXCodertell buzz
lowridah_i never even bothered cutting with the old coreldraw crap it came with
XXCodergthx: tell buzz
gthxXXCoder: I'll pass that on when buzz is around.
XXCoderlol ok
lowridah_you can fire the laser without the software so i just made sure it moved and rewired it from the start
lowridah_it was hella broken from china
XXCoderhad to rebuild eh
lowridah_would not stop on the y endstop (smashed) and the x stepper wires were mixed up 1/1 1/1 so it just ground
lowridah_yea, a normal was-never-a-maker guy would be out of luck i think
lowridah_or, i'd never suggest buying a cheap chinese laser unless you knew it would show up broken
lowridah_the fan it came with was crap didn't fit in the fan duct area so i had to throw it out and cad up some ducting brackets for some blower i alraedy had
lowridah_at least the tube wasn't broke
XXCoderyeah heard of it arriving broken
XXCoderlowridah_: I wonder if laser co2 tube was DOA would they refund
lowridah_probably, it was ebay and they don't want a bad hit
lowridah_i wonder how they'd have handled the wiring and smashed endstop though
lowridah_i just fixed and moved on because i knew it was gonna show up busted
XXCoderdunno though as long as parts is fine it can be fixed
lowridah_amazon was $100 more for the same kit and i'm guessing it's due to a higher expectation of customer experience
lowridah_maybe also due to not being able to sell pirated dongles for coreldraw4 on amazon
lowridah_tied to jank hardware lol
geniacki am using a core xy system but my y and my z axis homes in the wrong direction, which option fixes that?
lowridah_flip the wiring at the ends
geniackbut that will make the axis change directions?
geniackbut they seem right
lowridah_stepper motors work with both poles for both motors as the two end wires on each stepper motor end
lowridah_do they move in the right direction when you move them?
lowridah_a stepper motor wired backwards will move backwards, if you are moving in the right direction but homing in the wrong direction i can't help
lowridah_make sure to turn everything off before you change direction on the motor
geniackx moves in the right direction and homes in the right direction
geniackz moves in the right direction but homes in the wrong direction
geniacksame for y
lowridah_what firmware?
Artesian3DOk so...
Artesian3DRostock is having stall issues again I think?
Artesian3Dit froze into the middle of an hour long print, not just a 10 hour print
Artesian3Dwhen the gears dont turn... what problem is that?
lowridah_geniack: i can't really help other than saying i don't know, because if you wire a stepper backwards, flipping the wiring fixes it
Artesian3Ddo we blame motor, hotend, or what?
lowridah_Artesian3D: what error message and firmware?
geniacklowridah_: i know, thank you
lowridah_there are a lot of reasons
Artesian3Dlowridah_: no errors at all
lowridah_from heater decouple to cosmic ray
Artesian3Dprinter is reporting normal operation
Artesian3Dlowridah_: all wires are good. It printed very well yesterday
Artesian3Dbut we noted that after a LONG print job the motor got very hot
lowridah_cosmic ray then
Artesian3DI fixed that by pointing a 120mm fan on it
lowridah_motors are meant to run kinda hot
lowridah_not super hot
Artesian3Dbut now even 30 mins into a short job (which it never struggled with)
Artesian3Dit was burning hot
Artesian3Dnow it's cool
lowridah_firmware, controller?
Artesian3Drepeteir rephost
Artesian3Ddefault motor current for seemecnc rostock v2
Artesian3Dbut this runs 3mm filament, for what it's worth, on a gregs wades
lowridah_i don't know that controller
lowridah_i know repetier and it's error messages
Artesian3Dlike I said, this has nothing to do with firmware or host
Artesian3Dit is mechanical
Artesian3Dthe gears grind, causing printing to stop. I do NOT think the motor is at fault
lowridah_well thats very difficult to fix over irc =(
lowridah_oh, do you have vref set right?
Artesian3DI think it's trying to drive filament into too cold a hotend?
Artesian3Dbut 202C should print fine
lowridah_if your drivers don't have enough forward voltage you'll get some grinding and failure
Artesian3Dfilament quality is out of the question. my hotend doesn't struggle to maintain temp
lowridah_i dunno, i have too little to go on
Artesian3Dlowridah_: its a V2 romax
Artesian3Dstock electronics
Artesian3Dit's a well made bot
lowridah_oh ok
Artesian3Dno this is good
Artesian3Dwe are troubleshooting via a checklist
Artesian3Dit all helps :)
lowridah_i have a romax v3 running in my kitchen right now
Artesian3Deven just me explaining what might seem obvious
lowridah_probably same electronics
Artesian3Dsame FW too actually
Artesian3Dit is a stock bot, except for my extruder and hotend
Artesian3Dwhich is why we have so many extruder and hotend issues..
lowridah_ive never had a failure that didn't show up on the lcd or in octoprint
Artesian3Dthat's awesome wow
lowridah_most of mine are heater decoupled or some temp delta hit
Artesian3Dlets check wire bundles
Artesian3Dok this is actaully great news
Artesian3Dits stalling even when trying manual extrudes
Artesian3Dso it's not overcurrent / overheating
Artesian3Dit's something that doesnt even have to do with FW/software/etc
Artesian3Dor code
lowridah_are you controlling via octoprint?
Artesian3Dwe have: 1. filament stuck / bulging. 2. temp mismatch 3. gear issues
Artesian3D4. idler issues
Artesian3D5. hob issue
Artesian3Dlowridah_: no
lowridah_if you have a bad cable to the pi, you will get that
Artesian3Dtotally understand but we checked that many times for other errors :)
Artesian3Dcable is good
Artesian3Dlemme check all gears
Artesian3Di have a suspicion the grub screw on the driver gear is workign loose
Artesian3Di need to loctite it in place, or perhaps replace my gears
Artesian3Dbeen thinking about getting some rubber point grub screws
Artesian3Dso they absorb the vibration
sprrocketthis is a different printer than the one you were working on a few months ago right?
sprrocketI think that one kept stopping mid-print
Artesian3Dlowridah_: so the hob is beautifully clean, the gears are tight and the grub screw on the driver is tight
Artesian3Dthe motor didnt overheat, the filament guide path is clear
Artesian3Dwire bundles are good.
Artesian3Dconnectors good
Artesian3Dboard didnt overheat or fail
Artesian3Dthe m3 screws that hold the motor physically TO the extruder assembly
Artesian3Dwere very loose
Artesian3Dthe ones underneath the drive gear could be turned a half turn each
Artesian3Dthe open side ones could be turned TWO TURNS EACH
Artesian3Ddoes that mean the motor itself could have slid away from the driver gear?
Artesian3Dbringing the drive gear with it?
Artesian3Dcausing the teeth to misalign and grind out?
lowridah_i dunno, i'm not there
lowridah_i'd tighten, clear eeprom, run homing and try again
lowridah_oh, save, then try again
Artesian3Dfound it
Artesian3Done of the motor wires snapped :(
XXCoderit got cut or wire metal fatque?
Artesian3DXXCoder: fatigue from strain
Artesian3Di am guessing I pulled it by accident
Artesian3DI'm going to add in strain relief
lowridah_nah, dingus magee sheered it off moving it
XXCodergood idea
Artesian3Dokay once more from the top :)
Artesian3Dcheck out what i did
Artesian3Dclear heatshrink to see if anything happens again
Artesian3Dwhile providing strain relief!
Artesian3Dcycling heater for next test
Artesian3Dworks perfect :0
Artesian3Dthank goodness
Artesian3Dtyvm for reminding me to check all wires
Artesian3Di was checking heater wires when I shoulda checked motor wires
XXCodersometimes its also good to check all bolts
XXCoderI once found that basically half non-frame bolts was loose heh
Artesian3DXXCoder: yeah!!
Artesian3Dback in february we did that
Artesian3Dwhile looking for the Checksum errors
Artesian3Dwe found out that the motor frame screws...
Artesian3Dthat hold the rostock's axis motors..
Artesian3Dsome were literally GONE
Artesian3Dlike not inside the printer
Artesian3Dsome of the motors were being held by 2 loose screws
Artesian3Dsadly it never fixed the Z level issues, but it was good to have
Artesian3Dthey had been held in by loctite too O_O
Artesian3DI put witness marks on all the critical screws now
Artesian3Dsuper happy
Artesian3Dwanna help with the mendel?
Artesian3Dthis looks actually kinda beautiful on spiral stuff...
Artesian3Dits rippled like a bastard
XXCoderboth is very rippled
Artesian3DVanessa convinced me to build FLOATING Z isolators
Artesian3Dinstead of the ones I had, which capture the X rods
Artesian3Dwith a fully bolted assembly
Artesian3Dthis never used to happen before. time to switch back?
Artesian3Dcan this be fixed with some sort of backlash prevention rig?
Artesian3Dpre-loading the leadscrews from above.. somehow, which I dont fully understand on a mendelFlex design
XXCoderits better to know what is causing tht first
Artesian3Dwe can be virtually certain it's the floating axis
Artesian3Dit happens whether the print is flat or bumpy, tall or short
cefArtesian3D: that's pretty whack. got a better shot of the whole machine?
XXCoderACTION facepalms
XXCoderflat earthers paid for banner showing earth and flat earth, said look up flat earth on google
XXCoderthe earth? it is actual space shot of earth
Artesian3Dsorry oh god
Artesian3Dfound a really awesome youtube channel about making stuff
Artesian3Dokay so...
Artesian3Dthat be her
XXCoderthat machine probably weights 10 times mine heh
XXCoderbut cool
HrdwrBoBwow that carriage is huuuuge
hypermistWhats a good printer for sub 600-830USD
XXCoderhard to say but there is very good ones in that range
HrdwrBoBhypermist: I am happy with my a8 for $160USD
hypermistfuck a8
HrdwrBoBbut it depends on your requirements
hypermisti have a tevo tarantula rage inducing
XXCodertoo bad there is no SLS in that price range
cefArtesian3D: 2 motors on the X?
hypermistim sick of premade chinese kits
cefArtesian3D: and Z motors at the bottom (based on other pics)
Artesian3Dholy shit
Artesian3Dmy flickr has 57,000 views
Artesian3DGJ guys
hypermistim sick of tevo tarantulas thought oh yea wil be fu nto do
hypermistBUT NOPE
Artesian3Dcef: actually lol, one is dead weight!
XXCodergod jesus guys?
Artesian3Dit's to keep the carriage perfectly balanced
hypermistbent rods, missing parts
Artesian3Dthis is a design made for flexible extruders
hypermistso im like...
Artesian3Dwhich I do not use
Artesian3Dcef: 2 z at the bottom, REAL x on the LEFT
Artesian3Dright side is an old dead motor just there to balance the real one
hypermistI was going to plop 825USD and buy prusa i3 mks...
hypermistmk2s *
hypermistthats non prebuilt and including shipping
cefArtesian3D: ahh ok.. and the belt.. you're running a fold-back pulley design ala the old classic mendel (teeth around a motor gear, feeding out opposite the X and then folding back around the outside on bearings)/
Artesian3Dcef that is correct I think? The X motor has its shaft pointing DOWN earthward. The belt comes in and covers 270 degrees of the gear, wraps itself around two bearings BACKWARDS
Artesian3Dand then sits TEETH SIDE OUT around the opposite axis bearings
Artesian3Dit is a much more balanced and even axis than a traditional mendel design
Artesian3DBECAUSE I use extremely heavy custom carriage
Artesian3Dyou won't see it anywhere else because I invented it from scratch after richrap's quickfit
cefArtesian3D: yup.. same as the old mendel design.. I always hated it as it usually caused more problems than not
Artesian3Dit is a very weird design but allows very customizable X ends
Artesian3Dso it's definitely a custom jobber, but it works
cefso are the waves always straight across? or are they slightly angled?
cefArtesian3D: other Q: have you tried without the "spring" couplers on Z? and are those Z rods constrained at the top or free to move?
cefArtesian3D: fwiw: those pring couplers can "bounce" if there's any stickyness in the Z screw. they don't turn then jump, then repeat. also if the coupler hole is bigger than the shaft)Z screw or motor shaft), it will sit off-centre and cause the Z to oscillate at the bottom.
Artesian3Dcef: they are free at the top
Artesian3Dthe coupler hole is exactly to spec
Artesian3DI dont have ANY spring couplers on Z...
cefahh ok.. sorry maybe thinking of wrong photo
cefcan't see the bottom of the Z rods in that last pic.
cefhang on.. yes you do.. those couplers with the spiral cuts in them. that's basically a spring.
cefGuessing you've got the centre of Z motor to centre of Z smooth rod distance correct on the X ends? threaded and smooth rods definitely vertically flat (no bend).. but yeah.. weird
cefArtesian3D: those 8mm smooth rods?
XXCoderafter 30 years, sony is apparently pressing vinyls again
XXCoder129F record breaking temperate :(
hypermistpeople recommend me non chinese clone 3d printers that are in the 400USD-830USD range xD
phillidGood luck finding one
XXCodertheres a bunch actually but I dont know enough to specifically recommand one.
Artesian3Dcef: 8mm smooth
Artesian3Dcef: lol ive bee using those couplers for...
Artesian3D2 years
Artesian3Dthey arent the problem trust me!
Artesian3Dcef: the 8mm are stainless and chromed ultra straight
Artesian3D.0001 over a meter
Artesian3Dthe leadscrews are better than that
Artesian3D.00001 over a meter
Artesian3Dthey were 50 dollars each
Artesian3Dlets not blame the known good components
Artesian3Dthis has to be related to the isolators somehow im afraid. Im just wondering if I need to ditch them entirely and go back to the X captives
Artesian3Dor if there is a way to salvage these
XXCoderis it easy to revert?
XXCoderif so, just remove and test
XXCodersee what difference is
cefArtesian3D: nah more just thinking if your X carraige weighs a bit they might deflect if you throw it about too fast.
Artesian3DXXCoder: it'll take at least an hour
Artesian3Dit's a nuisance
Artesian3Dbut you're right I should
Artesian3Dwe rebuilt the idler which was probably the source of my fucky Y motion
Artesian3Dbut vanessa said I really needed to rebuild Z
Artesian3Dand then this happened...
Artesian3Dwhich makes me think Z was never an issue :/
XXCoderyou may still need to, but maybe that was not specific issue
Artesian3Di feel bad because THIS setup is acftually how the machine was always meant to run
Artesian3Dit was my stubbornness that led me to custom design captive X isolators
Artesian3Dthe creator of this design for the mendel has floating isolators just like this
Artesian3Dwhich makes me really question why it worked BETTER the way I did it?
cefArtesian3D: oh you're using those anti-backlash nuts?
XXCoderone thing about that is that your overall changes may have affected each other
XXCoderso as result your specific part may work better... for your current configuration
Artesian3Dcef: im not using those
Artesian3Di can buy them
Artesian3Dbut then its throwijng money at the problem?
Artesian3DXXCoder: sounds like it must
Artesian3Di wonder why!
Artesian3Dperhaps floating only work with anti blacklash spring loaded nuts?
Artesian3DI was also told NOT to constrain the Z rods at the top
Artesian3Dthe leadscrews
Artesian3Dalthough I always had and had no issues
XXCoderthat increases the wobble
Artesian3Dso now they fly free
Artesian3Dif you say so
XXCoderhowever could semi-constrain em
XXCoderloose enough for it to move a little but not big movements
XXCodernot too sure how much help it would be
XXCoderwith decouplers it really dont matter as long as leadscrews cannot move other axis around (not up/dpown but other ways)
cefArtesian3D: ahh good.. cos those things can be a right bugger to get right.
Artesian3DXXCoder: they were inside ninjaflex gaskets :)
cefArtesian3D: I had floating threaded Z rods on my old mendel and never had issues like that.
Artesian3Dso I guess I stumbled into that one in my effort to make them quiet
Artesian3Di stumbled in the right direction
Artesian3DI'll see if I can find them again
Artesian3DI was derided quite thoroughly for having those earlier
Artesian3Di think what we do with the tops is actually less critical
Artesian3Dthan the literal part that moves them the whole time lol
XXCodercef heh my el cheapo printer had pretty bad wobble till I designed and added anti-wobble decouplers, and was amazing after I added wax paper
Artesian3Dfinal Q:
Artesian3Dis there any printing setting in slic3r that might actually be causing this?
Artesian3Dor since it literally only ocurred when I switched over the isolators, its probably just that?
XXCoderwell over-extrusion or too much flow? but like you said you calibrated that jillion times by now
cefArtesian3D: the thing I always worry about is that the motors shafts are supporting all the weight of the X/Z. Always annoys me that.
XXCodercef thats why newer ones PULL up not push up
XXCodermuch more stable apparently
cefXXCoder: stable yes, but still puts all the weight on the motor shaft bearings.
cefsame problem just upside down.
XXCodercompressive is worse actually but yeah
cefok, off for dinner
Nebukadnezahrhr, nice
Nebukadnezato build a new printer, or not to build one?
Cudabuild a gus simpson
HrdwrBoBNebukadneza: build a new one or upgrade current?
HrdwrBoBor build a cnc
HrdwrBoBor get a laser?
Nebukadnezafriends already have a larger cnc router
Nebukadnezacurrent one is cheapo china delta shizzle
Nebukadnezafor me as a newb it’s essentially un-tunable
Nebukadnezai’m printing at 25mm/s and prints look like shit
HrdwrBoBthat's shit
HrdwrBoBmy a8 prints at 50mm/s fine
Nebukadnezaand i can’t even say why
Nebukadnezait has some backlash allright, but not overly so
Nebukadnezasometimes it just seems to forget to spout filament …
Cudai have an a8 too, even at at 80-100mm/s the results are servicable
Nebukadnezasometimes it spouts heaps, but it looks like it’s doing a support upper layer
Cudasounds mostly like mechanical problems
Cudaif in doubt, change the nozzle and try another brand of fil
HrdwrBoBwhat filament?
XXCodergrab the glowing one you didn't want to touch due to radioactivity concerns behind in your shed
Cudawait .. do your prints come out weirdly sponge-like, Nebukadneza?
Nebukadnezamh, not really sponge-like
Nebukadnezai have DasFilament-filament
Nebukadnezai don’t have a good example currently
Cudathat stuff is okay
Nebukadnezaor wait, one
Cudaespecially if you're new, it's easy to overlook one little setting somewhere, that messes everything up
Cudalike the standard setting of 2.85mm filament diameter
NebukadnezaACTION uploaded an image: file1498989907041.jpg (47KB) -
NebukadnezaACTION uploaded an image: file1498989907456.jpg (64KB) -
NebukadnezaACTION uploaded an image: file1498989907869.jpg (68KB) -
Nebukadnezais that visible?
Nebukadneza(btw, how exactly does that look like in IRC?)
HrdwrBoBCuda: ... yeah I did that :)
XXCoderzits problem is bad
Cudaare you storing your fil properly?
Nebukadneza… no :(
Cudapropably that's the only problem there
XXCoderlast ones too much water in plasic?
Nebukadnezait’s essentially been lying around for 2 years
Nebukadnezawhen i had a short, sad interjection with a makerbot mini, before starting properly just a few months ago
Cudait absorbs some moisture that boils and bubbls when heated, and even messes up the chemistry of the plastic (hydrolysis)
Nebukadnezawell, „properly“
Nebukadnezahm oh
XXCoderyeah you have to dry em now
Nebukadnezaaka, put them into a bag with shitloads of silica gel (… or salt or rice?)
XXCoderfor a LONG method, bag it with lots diseccant (not type that has dust you dont want that)
Cudayeh .. order some new filament, and meanwhile pack the damp stuff airtight and with excessive amounts of dessicant
Cudain a warm place. 1-2 weeks and it's fine
Nebukadnezamh, gotta order dessicant first
Cudabuy a bag of silica cat litter
Nebukadnezais there any „household-remedy“-type dessicant that works?
Nebukadnezahaaahaha, that’s genius :-)
Nebukadnezawill most definately do
Cudayou have to dry it before use. microwaving it works great for smaller amounts.
Nebukadnezammh, okay
Nebukadnezawell, that’s a starting point …
Nebukadnezathe zesting was a stringing test, btw
Nebukadnezathe zests peel off okay~ish
Cudatest the moisture level, by holding some cool cglass over the hot cat litter. if there is still ocndensation, nuke it for another 1-2 minutes
Nebukadnezai think one other problem i have is that i can’t get my china-polulu-clones to drive my emotor warm
Nebukadnezayeah, what the heck? O.o
Cudayea .. but yea as in no. i dont quite understand that sentence
Cudawhy or what is warm (or not) and why?
XXCodercat litter yeah though dust
Nebukadnezai thought one way of adjusting (bauden)-emotor current is to increase the drive voltage until it runs quite hand-warm in usual use
XXCodermaybe flat plastic bowl to hold fili off bigger bucket with lid of cat ltter
NebukadnezaXXCoder: yeah, or fine gauze or so
XXCoderuse non-led or cathode light to keep it fairly warm
Nebukadnezai’ll figure something out with that idea ^_^
XXCoderwarmer the faster it outgases water
Cudaput the cat litter in old (washed) socks
Nebukadnezai have a central heating in my basement, i’ll place it on top
XXCoderbuy very cheap humidity meters you NEED that.
Nebukadnezahas ~35°C throughout
XXCoderuse standoffs but yeah
Nebukadnezai actually have one for cigars :D
Nebukadnezayeah, on a cupboard in that room, not on the thing itself
XXCodersure though I have 20 humidity meters lol
XXCoderits like less than 50 cent each
Cudai have a few that i made myself :D
Nebukadnezahu, that clheap?
Nebukadnezaplease elaborate
Cudausing a long hair works like a charm
XXCoderhold on
hypermisttotally debating on buyign a prusa mk2s
Cudayou can make one from cardboard XD
Nebukadnezaoh, the card type thingies
Nebukadnezaright, i totally forgot about those
XXCoderyeah its fantastic, all fili boxes of mine has one, and one room
XXCoderwhen I didnt have enough boxes each bag of extra fili had one in it (ones not sealed anyway)
XXCoderignore "30% = danger". you want 10% to be not pink
Nebukadnezathanks a lot
XXCoderall my boxes is at very low percentage 5% or so
Nebukadnezabtw … any idea what to do with the e-motor?
XXCoderweatherstrip is awesome. :)
XXCoderoh missed that, whats wrong with it
NebukadnezaCuda: and that’s hair?
XXCodergiant hair ;)
Cudadeant look like that is a hair :D but it shows the construction
Nebukadnezawell, bunch of hairs O.o
NebukadnezaXXCoder: well, very seldomly the extruder gives off a „clacking“ sound
phillidMaybe it's the string that says a constant length and the wood that expands and shrinks
XXCoderno gthx reply bah
Cudabut you wouldnt see a hair on such a shitty pic, lol
phillidACTION blows his own mind
XXCoderphillid: nah
XXCodergthx: clicking is
gthxXXCoder: Okay.
Nebukadnezai always though — and someone in here confirmed — that the e-motor current is too low, and it’s not advancing or actually „ratchetting back“ where it should drive forward
Cudathat "clacking" may be popping bubbles of hot steam
Nebukadnezait doesn’t come from the hotend … but the extruder
Cudado you have a multimeter?
Cudaoh okay
XXCodergthx: clicking is also possibly too much water in filament
gthxXXCoder: Okay.
gthxclicking is and is also possibly too much water in filament
Nebukadneza(again, bowden-extruder, so they’re spatially far apart)
Nebukadnezaso i’m sure it’s not the hotend // bubbles
Cuda<.<;; how i loathe the misnomer, that the extruder is called hotend, and the feeder/filament driver is called extruder
Nebukadnezauh, ack
Nebukadnezaso … i do assume that trying to increase current until the motor gets no hotter, but not really cooler than ~60°C or so is a first right step … ?
XXCoderif you can cook your fingers its too hot
XXCoderwarm is ok
Cuda60°C already feel borderline hot to the touch
Nebukadnezabut really cool is bad, right?
XXCodertoo cold is a possibility
XXCoderbut cool is cool
Cudaskipped steps dont clack. and if the motor has enough torque to make the drive gear skip steps, it has enough current
Cudaholy shit xD at least 8 of my shrimp are carrying. 20-30 eggs each, and i assume a 75% survival rate
Cudamight be about time to set up another tank
Cuda.. or two <.<;
XXCoderor all of em
XXCoderyou might have to steal zoo tanks
Cudaaquariums are cheap and easy to make, the limiting factors are space, and how much load my furniture can take
Cudai've had another tank ready to go .. but then i got my hand on 4 baby newts that would love me to put shrimps in there
LoetmichelCuda: not only the furniture... i have seen a ~1200 liter tank fall thru the (wooden) ceiling once
Cudaluckily the floor is reinforced concrete
Cudacute little buggers <3
XXCoderobsidian seems to plan to add more early bird
jaggzwith atomic black abs.. I printed at .2 layer height and my print came out like garbage
jaggz135 degrees.. speeds of 50mm/s for supports, 30mm/s for perimeters
XXCoderdang did it even melt?
jaggzIt's been a month or so since I printed.. it seemed to do better at half the print speed and 138c
jaggzXXCoder, is that that low?
XXCoderin compare, I use 190c
XXCoderand 190 is lowish
jaggzmy board is set to shut off the extruder at 140
jaggzI don't know why that's so low
jaggzI raised it a while back too.. its default was even lower iirc
XXCoderI know of only one plastic that melts that low
XXCoderand its not for printing
jaggzugh.. I'm sorry.. 235
XXCoderits for purging
jaggzACTION slaps self with large trout
XXCoderABS i'm not too familiar with
XXCoderand heard its tough even with high quality like atomic
jaggzI've rarely had problems
jaggzit can curl on unsupported corners
jaggz(think upside-down pyramid)
XXCoderif it was pla I'd say not enough cooling but abs dunno
jaggzor actually, convex unsupported perimeters of 45 degrees or so as well
jaggzyeah abs .. no cooling.
jaggzokay.. well maybe it was just too fast for such thin layer height
jaggzthe filament's been out for all these months too.. it's not humid here, but that might have changed its properties
jaggzbeen using it for a year while out so I don't think that's really a problem
XXCoderabs does grab more than pla does
jaggzgrab? .. oh
jaggzit's such an ugly mess it's hard to even diagnose it :)
jaggzit's dark in here too.. flash photography of the black mess is not very helpful
TheHexaCubehell yeah, germany just got a new fricken letter!
jaggzan alphabetical letter or a letter from someone?
TheHexaCubealphabetical letter :P
jaggzor a unicode letter like this:
TheHexaCubeit's the captial letter of ß - ẞ
XXCodercongats, one less month of pregantacy left
XXCoderKnow͡ what̕? I ̴lik̷e ͟t̛h̨is̴ ̡bet͡t͢eŕ.
jaggzspam detected
XXCodertoo bad for people with no unicode support
duudewoah jaggz
duudewhat are your print settings?
jaggz235C, 30mm/s perimeters. .2mm layer height
jaggzI think it's too low a layer height for this speed maybe.. it did better a couple degrees hotter and at 50-70% that speed..
jaggzsupports were at 50mm/s so that could also cause it maybe
jaggzyou can see the top layer or so started printing better -- that's when I dropped it to 70, 60, then 50% speed
duudewhat is the filament?
duudewhat are you slicing with?
XXCoderdammit I set message to wrong nick
XXCoderbleh someone has it already
XXCodermessage scrolled off
duudecareful sending pics ;)
XXCoderwell other funny one
XXCodernot talking about pm
duudelol nice
hypermistwho here hsa prusa i3 mk2s ?
probonohypermist, me
hypermisthow do y ou like it probono ?
probonoi find it awesome
probonobuilt the kit this week
hypermistDo you think its worth it ?
probonoyes, totally
hypermistso you had to wait 7 weeks i guess
probonocomparing it to my earlier printer
probonoi only realize now how many compromises i had to make with my old one
duude__how much did it cost?
probonobuilding it took me more like 10 hours than the 5 you sometimes hear
probonothe kit is 700 eur plus shipping
hypermistim currently sitting here debating
probono739 actually
hypermist823.86USD for me XD
duude__cr-10 =380-400
duude__its almost fully assembled
probonobut prusa is expanding the production factory, so hopefully the 7 weeks will go down soon
hypermistand ?
hypermistthat and was pointed at duude__
duude__wont take u 10 hours to put together
hypermistbut it'd require alot more hassle
hypermistI have two tevo tarantula kits atm. both not working, reason why screw rods busted and warped
duude__you are spending 1,123?
hypermisti CAN spend 1,123
duude__u cant beat that with a stick
hypermistew preorder
duude__better hurry
hypermist.6mm nozle D:
duude__yeah u print super fast
duude__or switch it out
hypermistlol :P?
duude__yeah dude if you are going to drop your hard cash, make sure u get what you pay for.
duude__low end I say cr-10 high end while u can get in the promega
duude__dont get me wrong prusa is amazing
duude__just I think u cant beat these two that are out there
hypermisti just need something to print i just bought more filament and i need to probably buy screw rods that are not bent... to repair the others and i still want a prusa i3
duude__well the one is
duude__check out the videos and reviews on it
duude__pretty damn good for that price
duude__and u wont spend 10 hours bashing your head against the wall
hypermisti know the CR-10 is
hypermistmeh already bashing my head against the wall <3
duude__unless u like that lol
hypermisti've shot myself in the foot many times with these chinese printers
hypermisti have a mp select mini, broken, tevo tarantulas bent Z rod..
duude__true, check out the reviews
hypermisti've watched cr-10 reviews
duude__prusa isnt perfect either
duude__Im just trying to save u some cash
hypermistmore perfect than a damn 200USD printer
duude__my buddy bought prusa mk3
hypermisti know, im just sick of chinese printers...
hypermistwant something thats got genuine support and all
hypermistnot something that requires you to ask a million questions on a fb post
duude__spend 2 days putting together then had to trouble shoot stuff for a week, cause he messed up on it
duude__and its mostly 3d printed parts...
duude__why does it cost $800?
hypermistbecause of the proper parts haha
hypermist800$ one is prebuilt
duude__he got $700 kit but with some add ons
hypermistthe parts on the prusa use apparently teeth taht are like 20-50$ a piece lol
hypermistthe extruder gear thingie
duude__oh ok
hypermistyea thats why multi material gets most of its cost
hypermistwhere *
hypermistthe kit + shipping for me is 824USD Lol
hypermist124.86 for shipping :X
duude__I know what your saying but when I saw his printer.. orange 3d printed parts and all zip tied together for $700
duude__i say bs
hypermistdang buying a rambo mini board is 120.4$ alone
duude__well let me know what u go with
duude__oh do u have any printer pics?
duude__or i mean print pics
hypermisti have no pics from my tevo tarantulas
hypermistbecause rip them tb
hypermistbecause rip them tbh *
duude__well happy hunting
duude__i gtg
hypermistidk wat to doo :(
TheHexaCubeXXCoder: so i wonder, do you need to add tolerances for CNC milling?
TheHexaCubeso eg. I have a cylinder with 5mm diameter, do I need to go 5.05mm for a hole so it fits?
TheHexaCubeor will 5mm fit just fine?
buZzTheHexaCube: you absolutely cannot fit a 5mm cylinder in a 5mm hole
gthxbuZz: 7 hours, 51 minutes, 2 seconds ago <XXCoder> tell buZz
buZzXXCoder: lol
TheHexaCuberight, and so what tolerances are usually used in CNC? D:
TheHexaCubenot 3dp
TheHexaCubebut milling i mean
buZz!google cnc tolerances
buZzthis says 0.4mm
buZzin wood though
buZzbut there's loads of types of fittings
buZzsome are hella tight 'press fit'
buZzsome are super loose 'ment for consumers'
buZzand all the stuff in between
buZztry asking in a CNC channel ;)
TheHexaCubewell, to be more specific it'd be a leadscrew-nut going through a hole
TheHexaCubewell, #reprap IS cnc ;P
buZzi dont really care :P
buZz#linuxcnc would have ppl that do this all day
buZz#reprap has near 0
TheHexaCubehrm #linuxcnc seems to be dead right now :P
buZzmechanical engineers dont often like to use computers, no
TheHexaCubefor endstops you want NC switches, right?
buZzso you can detect wire breaking
TheHexaCubeaw man the eva series is much sadder than I remembered :(
srkTheHexaCube: depends on the machine, small tolerance is usually needed but much smaller com;are
srkcompared to 3d printing
TheHexaCubewell, all I can tell you is that the machine costs about 350-500.000€
TheHexaCubeI assume it is fairly precise at that point :P
srkprobably :)
srkeven our chinese 3040Z can do well bellow 0.1mm
eyeforcehello my friends
eyeforcei need help as always
eyeforcei have a A4899 driver and want to upgrade to tr2100. is it simply plug and play?
srkeyeforce: if it comes in stepstick compatible format then probably yes, apart from differnet number of microsteps I guess
jeffdm_Yeah best case plug and play, but there's always a small risk in things not working right out the gate and needing some adjustments.
jeffdm_srk: any O-drivey progress?
jeffdm_2100 is known to be more thermally sensitive
filadome_what's a good temperature and time to dry out TPE?
srkjeffdm_: not really, customs fucked up so I'm still waiting for more boards
srkbuilding antenna rotator for tracking cubesats meanwhile
Jesperheadalright chums. i have 2 hours to correct my mistakes and finally get this printer up an running
Jesperheadwheres my robin
Jesperheadrobin sulking in hiding isnt going to bring your parents back
Jesperheadfine i never needed that crybaby anyways
Jesperheadtime to calibrate steps
Jesperheadthis is what caused the catastrophic failure last time
Jesperheadcrap i spoke to soon
geniackcan someone tell me what might be causing this issue in pronterface: ?
Jesperheadrobin is that you?
Jesperheadthe paste looks like your bed failed to heat
Jesperheaddid you check the heatbed connections?
buZzgeniack: look like the heating failed
buZzand that stopped the system
buZznothing to do with pronterface btw, those are messages from your printer's firmware
Jesperheadok fam, what does it mean if A. your extruder appears to be working (motor turned, extruder gear turns) but B. filament stops actively being fed into the extruder and yet even still C. filament continues to come out during extraction
Jesperheadcome out of the hto end*
geniackbuZz: heating failed? the bed is getting warm? i am not sure where to look for errors
Jesperheaddo i just have a nasty clog or something?
buZzgeniack: look at the temperature sensor of the bed
sprrocketJesperhead, C is probably just oozing
geniackbuZz: its rising and then it just stops
sprrocketA & B: check your feedrate first, I accidentally had mine at 0 and it was... weird.
geniacki just noticed only half of the bed is getting warm O_O
Jesperheadsprrocket: ive tested multiple times. it actively comes out during extrusion control only
sprrocketSo... only when you try to print, nothing comes out?
buZzgeniack: heat can cause bad connections to break
Jesperheadsprrocket: feedrate... ok im sorry i was born with a few extra chromosomes. do y ou mean the feed knob on my extruder?
Jesperheadsprrocket: i havent tried to pritn anything yet. trying to get it working properly first >.<
sprrocketno, the firmware feedrate.
Jesperheadis there an M command that can tell me that
geniackbuZz: but when its heating i can measure 12 v on pad 1 and 2 on my heatbed
geniackso what would cause only one half of the heatbed to heat up?
sprrocketM203 is max feedrate, check it with M503
buZzgeniack: thats not the temperature sensor
Jesperheadmax feedrate
geniackbuZz: i need to short negative
buZzoh yeah thats possibly the issue, poor installation could cause bed to not heat up at sensor, and firmware then freaks out
sprrocketwhen you say it comes out during extrusion control only, what does that mean?
Viper168my bed needed to be soldered first
Jesperheadthe interface i am using is octoprint currently, using the manual extrusion controls
Viper168make a bridge/jumper
sprrocketbut you haven't actually tried to print anything?
Jesperheadnot since i broke my last motor and got a replacement
Jesperheadstill need to re-level the bed as well
sprrocketI mean, if the motor still turns when you send extrusion commands but nothing comes out, you either have a clogged nozzle or you need to up your temp
Jesperhead230 degrees for petg
Jesperheadi was wondering if my extruders idle lever wasnt clamping on the filament properly so ive tried toying around with that
Jesperheaddoesnt seem to help
sprrocketare you sure it isn't just your grub screw not being tightened all the way?
Jesperheadthe gear is definitely turning which tells me the motot + pinion gear are turning
curlyearshough haugh
sprrocketand yet nothing comes out of the hotend? o.O
curlyearsJesperhead: what is the symtom you are addressing?
Jesperheadno i am definitely getting some extrusion
Jesperheadmy issue is the amount of filament being pulled into the extruder
sprrocketand you calibrated your E-steps?
Jesperheadwith my old motor it seemed like a LOT of filament was going in and like 3x the goo was coming out.
curlyearsJesperhead: too muchm or too little?
Jesperheadive changed the amount from 5mm to 20 mm to 100mm and no change
Jesperheadlike next to nothing
Jesperheadtoo little currently
sprrocketwell the gear is probably eating into your filament at this point
Jesperheadwhich gear in particular?
Jesperheadthe one gripping the filament?
TheHexaCubehmm, i assume trigger force isn't really a thing i need to consider for 3d printer endstops, right?
Jesperheadi have a knob to control my idle lever which increases or decreases that grip
Jesperheadhave tried modifying
sprrocketokay but have you actually pulled your filament out
Jesperhead... standby
curlyearsjave inspected the interior of the nozzle suirfce, and the interior of you melting chamber: There could be some buildup of undesirable materisal (most probably old filsament residue
curlyearswhat sort of end-stop/ Proximity sensor, mechanicasl microswith, opticsl sensor, etc.?
TheHexaCubecurlyears: mechanical endstop with a plunger
TheHexaCubei mean a printer most likely won't care if it's .5N or 1.2N, right?
TheHexaCubeon a related note, what does 'self clinching' mean regarding pins on an endstop?
curlyearsTheHexaCube: hmmm. You probably want to start by determing how much actual force is required to move the sensor extension, and serlighteer than that *to account for the mass and inertia ot the extension rod(ch fo a sensor with a hair less in
TheHexaCubeI also wonder, could I abuse angled pins to surface mount them?
TheHexaCubein my mind it should work out, but I dunno
TheHexaCubethough that'd result in a weaker connection
curlyears"angled pins?"
TheHexaCubethe image is a little small, sorry
TheHexaCubebut see how there's a version that has a 90 deg bend?
TheHexaCubeI'm just generally curious
curlyearsph, you mean a right-angled header connector, loke a pinhead connecter that mounts to the board with pins that are bent at 89 degree angles to the local "normal," right?
TheHexaCubeyeah, exactly
curlyearstry bending one. You ruin the switch if the connector pin breaks off are develops cracking,
curlyears89 degrees? OOpsie
Nebukadnezaso … how do you guys store your filament conveniently?
curlyearsNebukadneza: I have seen people use plastic storage "totrs," whit no hole and a closed seal betwwen box nd lid. The best performace for this manner of storage, you cam add a thin layer og crystal silione cat liter in the bottom, whihc is a strong dessicant. Keep the box open for as little time as possible when removing or replacing spools of fi
curlyearslament, want to jkeep that lid on tight as nearly 100% as possible. If you use "clear" or translucent tote, you should be able to identify which tote you wantm and which spool in the tote, by looking without to having to open and close them for inspection, tote after tote after tote
Nebukadnezahmm, cat litter stuff in a big box sounds more convenient than vacuum-resealing so often
Nebukadnezaalso: … tote?!
Nebukadneza(sorry, non-native-speaker here)
Nebukadnezawhat do you have in your box to make sure the filament doesn’t get dusty from the cat litter stuff?
curlyearsalso, some people print a bushing with an eslatomeric ssheetys sealing itm in which a small round holm, sizd for the diameter of filament yuou use, and only open the box when they have to replace a spent spool. Niced...each tote has 3 or 4 spooks obn a tubular support rod, which runs the length of the tote. Then tjey also implment that pass0-th
curlyearsrough glands or seals. Again, only time to ope n it is when a spool (ot spools) run out of filanebnt, or you need to spool of non-standard flament, so you swao it into one of the totes, in place of some older filament you have ben using, but are not likely to bed in the cuttnt oproject
Nebukadnezauhm … again … tote?
RaMcHiPI officially have the Anet A2 up and running good! Its not perfect yet and I have more pieces on the way.
curlyearsNebukadneza: well, gel-based cat litter is almost 100% dust free. That's one of the largest advanvtages. Also, after a time, when the cat litter ceases to function, you can pour it into a pan, place in a cool (~~200-250C) for half an hour, it is nice, day dessecant again. Only buy it pnmce *heh&* haw vwery green
curlyearsgtads my typing SUCKS the big one today! And I am tyoing at far less than my normal speed
Nebukadnezawell, i can understand most of it
Nebukadnezayou said „Only buy it pnmce heh& haw vwery green“ — and i couldn’t make a lot of sense from that
curlyearsoh, s/'pnmce/once
Nebukadnezaokay, guess i’ll shop for a sunshade-stand, an airtight box and some cat litter silica tomorrow ^_^
curlyearsyeah, I woke up quite late in thew morning, around 11:29, and I m quite light-headed, dizzy, disoriented, my already poor motor function level is MUCH worse for some reason
curlyearssunshade stand?
Nebukadnezauh, sorry to hear that
Nebukadnezaare you alright?
curlyearsI can barely stand, I am so wobbly, infact, I feel like am sitting in chsir on the deck of a storm-tossed ship in the middle of the Psacific. In other words, I having trouble even maintaining my balance while sittimg
Nebukadnezahydrated enough?
TheHexaCubecurlyears: you should really consider seeking a doctor in that case, if you ask me
Nebukadnezaif you’re not aware what caused that condition, please go see a doctor :/
Nebukadnezaif you drank 2 bottles of whisky yesterday, then drink 3 liters of water now and rest
Nebukadnezaif you didn’t … go seek a doctor now
curlyearsplenty hudrated, it COULD be low blood sugars, but I did a blood test just before earting breakfast, (r.g, "fasting"
curlyearss/r.g/in other words/
curlyearsat the risk of iritating arthur-, is anyone intimately familiar with RANBo board architecture?
curlyearsTheHexaCube: Yes, you ar correct, but it is Sunday, and the only medical facilities available to me are the emergnce rooms at one of the two largwer hopsitals in town, and due to me having turned my driover's licese in about 5 years agp, so I don;'t have ready trnaportation. I will only call abn ambulance if whatever is going on is severe enough
curlyearsthat I can't "tough it out" until Monday, when I can get an appointment and have one of neighbors take me.
curlyearsthe hospital is all the way across town, while my DR's office would be within walking distance for mot people. I cannot walk that far...
Viper168I'm similar
Viper168granted I also just don't want to fuck with it
Viper168like last time I stabbed myself
Viper168trying to free coconut meat when the shell gave and the knife plunged into my hand
Viper168it was snowy out, and hospitals are expensive
Viper168so I washed it out and used antiseptic, and glued it shut
curlyearsViper168: yeah, being old AND disabled SUCKs.
Viper168that is after the blood stopped squirting
Viper168worked out fine
Viper168hurt like hell though
Viper168could have used some pain killers
curlyearsviper: I'll bet it did. Non-medically certified cyanoacrylates *CAN* cauhse health issues, though. The manufacturing lines are kept "clean"in the industrial sense, but not in the medical sense, and there's bo telling what is in that CA tiy jyst iized into a wound to seal it. It isn't just germs you're worried about. Some chemicals found in a
curlyearsbundance are highly toxic, and if you get unlucky, well . . .
Viper168_I got a stock of antibiotics just in case too
Viper168_well yeah you don't want it in the wound for sure, but typically I've heard it's fairly safe
SpeedEvilvet-grade medical CA is pretty cheap, and probably good to keep in stock. Stick it in freezer and it lasts forever
Viper168_even medical glue probably sucks to get inside the wound
Viper168_I closed the wound pretty well before applying the glue, didn't really get inside appreciably
curlyearsI once seal a fairly deed cat scratch acorss the back of my left hand with CA, I auevived, and the problem I have related to tht incident is a large red nsem snow white hair and beard, and a LOT of excess fat :)
Viper168_a large red nsem?
Viper168_you're suggesting super glue made you go gray?
Viper168_or white
Viper168_I have a thin white line where the stab was
Viper168_thankfully it was a pretty clean satb
curlyearsSpeedEvil: yeah. The other thing is to bot expose it to high humidity for any longer than absolutely necessary. Apparently, CA is intensely hydrophyllic
Viper168_I had cat scratch fever where my arm swelled up after my cat freaked out about another cat and gored my arm. left a hole the size of a pencil eraser where you could move it around and see the meat
curlyearsnosem large red nose :)
Viper168_had to take the antibiotics for that
Viper168_big red streak going up my arm
Viper168_luckily I had the ideal antibiotics on hand for it
curlyearsI am very lucky to able to say that despite me being clawed and bitten by MANY felines, I have never contracted "cat scratc fever." After reading Harlan Ellison's excellent desciptino of his life after contract CSF, I am highly concerned about gwetting it
Viper168_it sucks but it's treatable if you take antibiotics
Viper168_no reason to let it go until it fucks you up
Viper168_it can do serious damage though if you don't treat it, it gets fairly obvious something is wrong
Viper168_so hard to let it slide
curlyearsanti-biotics don't always help with CSF. My understanding is that CSF colonizes the lymph nodes nearest to the the injury which leads to CSF. It causes them to dwell painfully, and can oersist in symptoms folr 8-24 Weeks
Viper168_again i think it takes a while to get that far, in most cases the right type of antibiotic will wipe it out
Viper168_it also takes a pretty significant wound to get infected
Viper168_your skin is great at repelling infections especially the outer layers
curlyearswell, that information I just related is based ib Ellison's essay, sp os about 37 tears out of datem here in 2017
Viper168_but if you go through the skin layer completely, you can almost expect it
Viper168_the claw went through the skin completely and into my meat
Viper168_when I say gored I mean gored
Viper168_not just scratched
Viper168_a deep stab
Viper168_little bastard
curlyearsViper168_: ih, don't take offense, please, but I have *ZERO* interest in your "meat," OK?
Viper168_it's definitely something you want to avoid but if you treat it quickly your chances of having no issues are high
Viper168_keep their claws trimmed, is the lesson basically
Viper168_so that they're incapable of breaking through your skin completely
Viper168_then you're pretty damn safr
curlyearsI on.y swish I could trim my cat's claws. You can't hold him either down or in your arms for more than 5 seconds begore he becomes extremely agitated , and starts squirmeiong VERY strongly to get away
curlyearsI have between 30-36 scabs and open qounds on my left arm, thanks to nt aking being brittle, and those claws breaking through it very easily
SpeedEvilWrapping in a towel can help.
curlyearsSpeedEvil: I thing I shall take pair of "hand towels," and sew me up some gauntlets that I can just slip over my arms. I coudl use those anyway sonce as one of my symptoms of AS, I pick, but I am not willing to go to any great lengths to do so. Sleeve work very well to prevent me from picking my arms
curlyearsuberadminer: you called>?
uberadminerrook leaks
curlyearsyour rook leaks? Yru your Knightm, you might be happier, L)
curlyearswell, thanks for all the converations...have a GOOD day, fellas
Nebukadnezai hope he’s going to be allright :(
TheHexaCubehmmm, is there any advantage over an endstop witha lever vs. just the plunger?
TheHexaCubethe pushy-in bit
Smidge204No, the lever is bullshit.
Valduareim using pcb buttons as endstops
TheHexaCubeValduare: I've actually thought about that, but I wasn't sure if they're usable
Valduarethey are quite
Valduareuse them for buttons on my pi3 nintendo case too
samsagazguy i have an website where i want to use diferents headers on each category of products i want to make a website of a group of stores (5) and want to use diferents categories on each store, for example to sell electronics... to sell computers.....
samsagazwrong channel :)
Valduaresamsagaz: just use wordpress and woocommerce plugin :P
samsagazValduare, :)
Nebukadnezawhy is it so hard to get a correctly scaled svg into f360
Viper168I hope 123d does it ok
Viper168gonna need that function to extrude recesses into boxes for my pipes
PanterateamaIf anyone is here with info on reprap and abs printing?
Viper168like the mjolnir pipes, weird shaped so gotta work from images
Viper168too fancy not to make cases for
Viper168what is reprap?
Viper168is that a band
Viper168hip hop group
ccecilPanterateama: what is the question?
Viper168I should print some abs
Viper168strap under my shirt
PanterateamaI can print PLA fine
ccecilABS is one of the more difficult plastics...once you get the hang of it though it isn't hard
PanterateamaI switch to abs and I get layer splitting
PanterateamaAnd bad flow
ccecilmainly it is difficult due to the need for environmental control
Viper168I need to start but I need to get a venting setup done
gthxdelamination is a phenomenon that occurs when your printed layers do not stick together. This can normally be resolved with an enclosure, increasing your heat bed temperature, or increasing your extrusion temps.
ccecilPanterateama: ^
Viper168a drop over hood
PanterateamaI tried increasing the temp from 230 up to 265,same
ccecilViper168: you don't want a vent near abs prints
Viper168it will be throttled
PanterateamaIt's an enclosed box
ccecilPanterateama: it is ambient temps...print is getting too cold
Viper168it needs some exhaust
Viper168else the fumes will leak
Viper168but am keeping it minimal
ccecilI personally think using a charcoal filter is the way to go
ccecilprevent drafts and such
Viper168I can't afford to deal with that atm
ccecilI have the fan :)
ccecilbut the filter I have is like 4ft tall
Viper168I have a small amount of activated charcoal
Viper168probably not enough
PanterateamaI can't get the abs to flow out of the nozzle well...
Viper168I might even rig up the heatgun
Viper168to blow warm air in
Viper168if necessary
Viper168have a pipe pointing up I can just insert the nozzle of the gun into so it stays
Viper168pipe will cool it enough to not melt everything inside
Viper168if not, cut vents
durrf LOL
Nebukadnezaif i present slic3r with 0.4mm wall thickness with a high, slender wall of 0.7mm
Nebukadnezawhat’ll it do?
jagohi all. this is more a question about servos than 3d printing but hopefully some kit-builders will know the answer. I've got a couple of MG995 servos I'm using for a pan and tilt setup and the shaft is, I think, 5.85mm. I'm trying to connect it to an 8mm shaft. I bought two different couplers online but one is 5mm to 8mm and one is 6mm to 8mm. I managed to get a connection by putting a screw in with a head that fitted but the
jagoy aren't staying still and there's movement. What is the best way to connect 5.85mm shaft to 8mm please? My project is aluminium/metal screw based for now (I may re-do it with a 3d printer once I have it all working, software included). I don't have a 3d printer at the moment (soon!) but a local man can print 3d parts if that is the only answer. But as both current shafts are metal, I'm not sure if plastic is the best solutio
jagon? Thanks!
mutleysounds like you need a 5.85mm - 8mm coupler
jagowell yes ;) but I've not been able to find one.
mutleygot a model shop near you? that sells thin wall brass tube?
mutleyyou could potentially shim the shaft, if the tubing you get is 0.1mm wall thickness
jagothere is a model shop fairly near. never been
jagodoes it need to be brass?
jagodo be honest, I just had to google it. is it putting epoxy glue in the shaft and gluing the 5.85mm shaft into the (0.1mm) brass tubing?
jagoto ^
mutleyno, depending on the tolerances of all the parts involved, you might be able to use a short section of the brass tube over the motor shaft
mutleyits just a thought
jagojust putting it on? why would it not just spin around?
jagoah I see...
TheHexaCubejago: friction :D
mutleydidnt you say you have a bolt going into it?
jammifriction fit shafts
jagothe other end of the coupler has an 8mm bolt. are you going to suggest drilling 5.85mm into the end? ;)
jammiglues will likely break loose
jammiand then they'll just be a pita to deal with
jammi(set screws count as friction fit)
sideralafucking lyin ass hoes
sideralathis "bluetooth fidget spinner" is a mp3 player
jagoannoying as the two couplers work differently. the 5mm one (obviously too small) uses set screws to secure what's in there (i tried a screw with a 5mm head). but the 6mm one, which the 5.85mm screws in to, uses screws to pull it tight, but it doesn't go tight enough to hold the 5.85 ! if the 6 worked like the 5, it'd be fine
jammitoo short set screws?
jammiand you could file the shaft flat at the position one of the set screws is supposed to go to
jagothe 5mm uses set screws. I guess if I filed the shaft to fit that would work. in the 6mm, the screws just don't tighten it enough. I tried a long one (30 or 40mm?) and that seemed better but then it would rotate all over ;)
jammimaking a flathead setscrew adhoc is pretty easy if you have a regular screw with the same thread long enough; then just cut it with a dremel disc cutter and make a slot for a flathead across using the same screw
jammi*using the same tool
jammido you have grease on the shaft?
jagohmm., not deliberately, but I have been using grease whilst cutting the aluminium so I guess some could have got in
jago(3-in-1 oil)
jagobut I washed everything down of course. but it's still possibly it got in at some point
jammialso, aluminium tin foil is nice padding if a hole is just a bit too large for a shaft, which is pretty typical in heat blocks vs heater cores
jagoah that's interesting. someone (with no knowledge at all about these things - ie, just a few % less than me ;) ) suggested the tape plumbers use for pipes. But I presumed that would just rip. But tin foil sounds more feasible
jammialu tinfoil is better, the teflon plumber's tape is meant for sealing pipe threads waterproof
jagowell, thanks. I can try the tin foil now. The rest I'll have to try tomorrow (I'm in Spain, it's 22:32 now). But if the foil doesn't work I'll go to the hobby shop tomorrow and see if they can help.
jamminot as a rigid thing and it's a thermal insulator as well and not mechanically durable at all
jagothanks everyone for your help. Glad to have found you. I've got my eyes on building a 3d printer kit. Just need to move house first (not enough room to keep it separate at the moment and a baby due in a few weeks!) but no doubt I'l be back here in the future to talk about 3d printing!
jagohave a great day/evening (wherever you are ;) ) and thanks again for the help.
gthxSleep well, honey!
Valduaretime for coffee
Ourosmy god, streaming gcode to my octoprint's sd card takes foreverrrr
curlyearsheigh hough
curlyearswell, to whomever hijacked my nickserv password, thank you for restoring it, and I shall immediately change it
curlyearsanyone home?
curlyearsdjdelorie: :0
curlyearsdjdelorie: did you hear about my new problem with the RAMBo replacement process?
curlyearsthe V1.2 board I bought has a small daughterboard the plugs in to 3 header strips, and has 2 cables that plug into headers on it. My V1.3 that needs replacing sports no such daughterboard, and I don't know where to plag the two cables in on the main board
djdeloriethe daughterboard converts the existing rambo connections into lcd; you should be able to reuse the old daughterboard
curlyearssince I don't have any idea what those two cables do, i am not sure how to proceed :(
curlyearshow do you meab "into LCD?"
djdeloriedo you have an lcd on your printer?
curlyearsyeah, in a small enclosure mounted on the front left at thew top of the column...AN LCD display and a knob.
djdeloriethe two cables are for that lcd
curlyearsthere are two cables coming from the LCD, How do I know which one goes where?
curlyearsI thought nost LCD displays on home built 3D printers used an LCD module that was I2C
djdelorieI'll post photos of mine, should help
ccecilsome are parallel
curlyearsccecil: OK, or SPI
curlyearsthanks, djd
curlyearsI am guessi8ngh that mine must be parallel, though there are an awful lot of wires in those two bundles of cabling plugging in to the daughter board
ccecilglcd is spi
ccecilsmart controller is parallel...but same cables :)
curlyearsdamn. I got out of bed to let someone into the building, and while I was standing there, waiting for my usual "just stood up" dissiness to fade, I fel;l backwards against a bookshelf. My right elvow got all mangled by a wooden model of a stream locomtive, and i am bleeding all over the place
ccecilyou should probably discuss that with a health professional
curlyearswhy would an SPI interfaced module use as many wires as a parallel interfaced one?
ccecilsmart controller?
gthxsmart controller is and also comes in two versions, "normal" and "full graphics":
ccecilschematics there
djdeloriethat's for a rostock lcd, at least
curlyearsccecil: yeah. It's Sunday evening. Only place I could obtain such a consultation would be a hospital emergency room, and the only way I would have of getting there s to call an ambulance. The bleeding is messy and irritating, but I am no danger of losing any significant quantity of blood from it
ccecilwhat led to the bleeding is the problem...
ccecilsimple troubleshooting
curlyearsdjdelorie: I see, that makes good sense. I am letting this thing get me all flummoxed, and not thinking clearly
curlyearsI'll be talking to my home health nurse tomorrow, I will bring the fall up to her. I am under instructions to report every fall
curlyears*whew* I hope my printer suirvived shipping from the factory to me without any significant shock. It would be sweet if I can just start printing it, without haveing to recalibrate everything
Valduareits tough to do f360 with the tv on heh
Opardead today
RaMcHiPWhat is the Mcode to echo what M851 is set too?
Oparwhat is that
RaMcHiPZ probe offset for marlin
RaMcHiPWell Skynet