VanessaE"GOOD DAY, Mr. Sheep's Butt..." --"Ramsbottom." --"Ohohoho yeah, like *that's* any better."
VanessaE(yeah I'm bored. watching "Despicable Me 2")
VanessaEholy crap, I just realized how random-like-kritter that sounds. :P
durrf2i only seen part of the 3rd one but its pretty good
VanessaEI don't recall seeing 3 yet.
TheHexaCubewhen will you recall?
VanessaEI won't :P
MarkMhi everyone. i wanna ask where can i learn the process flow of Marlin firmware, specifically how it get the temperature and display it on lcd simultaneously with motor controlling. Or is it one one-by-one process (ex. Move motor -> get temp -> display temp -> move again the motor)
VanessaEACTION is cluelessa about marlin internals
durrf2the gcode is executed one at a time afaik
TheHexaCubeMarkM: I'm pretty sure that it'll fetch the temperature inbetween motor moves
VanessaEclueless* too.
TheHexaCubethe step-pulses are generated by interrupts, so anything else will happen inbetween those interrupts
TheHexaCubelike reading gcode, motion planning and well, everything else :P
MarkMThanks for all the replies. So it is really between motor moves.
TheHexaCubeI can't guarantee it, but it's very likely :P
srkthere might be an ADC interrupt for that
srkas well
TheHexaCubeinterrupt all the things
tralamazzanice, what brand is that?
kraegarthe pumpkin for the noze turned out better than expected for a 0.4 nozzle.
kraegarunder 7mm tall
jeffdm_h_I finished the back panel
notauser4 drivers for Z axis O.o
DJHenjinwhat about 4 drivers for z?
DJHenjinwhere is that even a thing
notauserIn the photo linked
notauserUnless they are all driven in parallel
DJHenjin IIRC they are belted together off 1 stepper
jeffdm_h_one motor three belts
DJHenjinI was right
evilrootI've seen that before in laser cutters for table height
DJHenjinif it works, why change it
jeffdm_h_I might have been inspired by a laser engraver I saw once.
jeffdm_h_here's the under deck:
notauserAhhh that's boring :P
evilrootYeah, looks very similar to my old laser heh
jeffdm_h_I think someone did do a 3 motor Z with a special controller meant to use that system to level the bed
Ameisenare you going to combine a laser cutter with a 3d printer?
Ameisencould do some neat stuff with that
jeffdm_h_no it's just an inspiration I took once from a mechanism
Ameisendo my idea now
Ameisenand then make something like the space shuttle arm
Ameisenwith an extruder
Ameisenthat spins around the bed
Ameisenso it can print on sides, too
abondishi, my capacitive proximity sensor detects me more than the print bed. I tried to connect the metal case of the sensor to ground, but it doesn't change anything. As soon as the sensor comes near me, it triggers. Any idea what I could do ?
notauserWhats a good way to make sidewalls for a kossel?
notauserOr better just to make a box for it?
kraegarbuy a cheap cabinet from lowes, home depot, or ikea, put it inside, shut ze door
kraegarabondis: have you considered that you're actually wolverine?
DJHenjindepends on the material the print bed is made of whether it will be detected or not
abondiskraegar: didn't think about that :)
abondisDJHenjin: the capacitive should be able to detect glass , and it does, but if I'm too close (~50cm) it triggers before it sees the glass bed
DJHenjinthat should not happen, they are not supposed to be that sensitive
evilrootCapacitive sensors are finicky
evilrootEspecially depending on where you got it
evilrootSounds like you got an overly reactive one, which happens sometimes
VanessaEwait wait, since when is adamantium ferromagnetic? :)
evilrootTry this. You said about 50cm . . . grip a power cord (anything plugged in) in one hand and then see if it detects you even further away
evilrootVanessaE: since Magneto pulled out out of Wolverine?
VanessaEI don't read comics so meh :)
evilroot*it out
VanessaE(granted in one of the old xmen movies I guess magneto's powers did bend wolverine's claws, ok so I'm wrong :P )
abondisevilroot: it still triggers for something I can't seem to see, but it's way better
evilrootIts a bad sensor then
evilrootActually wait hold on
evilrootI just read a bit up
evilrootCapacitive sensors can get weird with a glass bed
VanessaEabondis: I take it the aluminum tape was not helpful?
evilrootDepending on the specific sensor and values
BiomechdHello, i recently bought an anet e10, but it shipped with a 250v european plug, which isn't helpful since i live in the us. It has a dual voltage switch for 110 and 250v, and i currently have it set to the 110. I have a spare power cord for something (a game console, laptop, or pc psu, maybe) that matches the end of the cord that goes into the control box, rated for 125v. Can i plug it in and be fine, or should i wait for the adapter i
ctagAnyone got suggestions for cleaning linoleum floors?
VanessaEBiomechd: just make sure hot/ground/neutral all match and it'll probably be good.
evilrootBiomechd: if it has a selector switch its fine.
crankylinuxuserctag, sure, a slave :-D
evilrootBut yeah, match up hot and neutral (though its probably fine either way, switch mode supplies aren't polarized)
evilrootctag: rent a floor cleaning machine
crankylinuxuserespecially if they wear a collar and a ball gag and ... whoops spoke too much ;-D
ctagI'd make a joke about me being the slave, but I feel it wouldn't fly in today's social environment
crankylinuxuserBDSM slaves are fine
BiomechdVanessaE, evilroot, do you mean don't use a two-prong in place of a 3-prong and vice versa?
ctagevilroot: Like a rug doctor?
VanessaEBiomechd: well that too
evilrootctag: no there are machines made specifically for hard floors
VanessaEbut you want to make sure ground/neutral/hot actually go to the right pins on your mains outlet.
evilrootThey use them at supermarkets and the like
crankylinuxuseryeah they're big rotating brushes
ctagOh, yeah, I've seen those
ctagHad no idea you could rent them
VanessaEcrankylinuxuser: some are more like giant rotating 3m pads...
BiomechdI'm not entirely sure what you mean.
evilrootYep, you can rent damned near anything at a commercial "rent-all" joint
zzingDoes anyone know of alternative tensioner designs for belts other than the type that hang off a screw (like on a wilson)?
evilrootBiomechd: it is a two prong plug?
crankylinuxuserI used to work in a walmart. thats what they did with the floors every night
VanessaEBiomechd: don't just randomly plug in a US cord without checking that it'll wire the power supply to your mains outlet like it should, otherwise you might end up with neutral and hot swapped around
Viper168mobI thought the name of this Creek I just drove over sounded kind of unusual
evilrootVanessaE: if it has a voltage selector switch than its not a concern, because it must be a switch mode supply
BiomechdYes it is. Where the ground plug would be were it american is a hole lined with metal contacts.
evilrootI mean still good practice, but year
VanessaEevilroot: sure, but ground is probably tied to the external casing, and if his plug cord is not wired right, he might end up with HOT to the case == fail (and kill :P )
durrfAFAIK C13 wiring is standardized but ianaa
evilrootGround is not neutral
VanessaEianee either, but call it a paranoia check.
VanessaEevilroot: well US wiring does have neutral tied to ground inside the breaker box.
VanessaEbut, point.
evilrootYeah, that's far more complicated
VanessaEI just wanna make sure this poor bastard doesn't fry himself or his printer :)
VanessaEand you know how US wiring can be in practice..
evilrootReversing the wires can under no circumstance make the frame hot, heh
BiomechdEspecially when it's my first printer lol :p
evilrootIf you only have hot and neutral
VanessaEwell true
VanessaEbut you know what I meant
evilrootThe only point of a ground wire is to trip the breaker
VanessaEI just don't trust unknown hardware I guess
BiomechdIf the control box has 3 prongs, logic says my cord needs to have a ground into the wall, correct?
VanessaEthat's always a good idea anyway
abondisVanessaE: I didn't have time to go buy or order any ... but it's also on my list. I thought it was detecting stuff under the bed, like screws and rails. So I made the bed 2cm higher and tested again, that when I figured out I was the culprit in the early Z trigger
evilrootIf it has three prongs then yes, only should be connected to ground
VanessaEabondis: if it were up to me, I'd have you try the aluminum tape first, and if that doesn't work, get a NPN NO inductive sensor
VanessaE(NPN NO doesn't require a resistor divider)
evilrootThe whole point of ground is that if hot touches the frame or other metal parts it will create a "ground fault"
evilrootAKA draw so much current instantly that the breaker trips
evilrootGFCI outlets like you have in a bathroom work on the same principle, but trip with a lot less current than a breaker
BiomechdSo 3 prongs in control box, 3 in wall, both ends match, and it's an american plug going into the wall, i should be good? Or should i be looking at something in the box?
VanessaEevilroot: the GFCI in the kitchen at my old place had a tendency to trip when you shut off the over-sink lamp :P
evilrootBiomechd: You should be good then, yes
VanessaE(I always assumed EMI from the light. fluorescent)
evilrootVanessaE: the outlets were improperly chained
VanessaEevilroot: in-wall switch/outlet combo
VanessaEbut yeah
evilrootThat happens when you get backflow from a ballast
VanessaEthat's what I figured it was
VanessaEback-EMF or something (not EMI, brain-o)
evilrootMeans the wiring wasn't proper to start
evilrootHappens in older houses
VanessaEwouldn't surprise me. that house was built in the 80's
evilrootYeah, in the 80's there wasn't enough enforcement on unlicensed electricians and code inspections were rare
evilrootOddly enough stuff from the 50's-70's despite code being MUCH more lax is usually better done
evilrootACTION has worked with a lot of wiring
VanessaEoh I dunn
VanessaEnot so odd if you think about it -- 50's to 70's, people cared more
VanessaEdidn't *need* the extra enforcement
VanessaEthen the 80's happened and everything went to shit :P
evilrootRecession, etc
Biomechd_Also, my printer shipped with one of the bed-leveling knobs unscrewed loose in the box. I have bubble levels. Is there a good way to level it without setting levels on it or is it just a matter of time and patience?
VanessaEBiomechd_: you want to level it relative to your Y rails actually
VanessaElevel your X axis relative to Y, then level the table relative to both
VanessaEyou don't care what gravity says, so you can't use a bubble level
evilrootExactly. You level the table relative to Z
evilrootMoving Z to each leveling screw and then adjusting until a piece of paper just has resistance
VanessaEthen you set up the auto-leveling in firmware and put your sensor into use, because at that point you're just compensating for table "drift" but your frame et. al are all square
evilrootHard to believe back in the day I had to do that every few prints X.X
VanessaEevilroot: never a-fucking-gain, right?
VanessaEI've only had to mechanically re-level my table once in the past... mmm, year? and only because I replaced the underlying Y carriage
abondisVanessaE: yeah I'll probably buy an inductive sensor if the tape is not enough
Biomechd_When you say table, you're referring to the print bed, correct?
VanessaEthe glass and the underlying heater, yes.
abondisthanks again for the help
VanessaEabondis: once you have the inductive sensor, I'm certain the tape will work.
VanessaEit does for me.
VanessaEBiomechd_: the "carriage" usually just means the moving parts under the heater, i.e. the fgrame to which the Y bearings are mounted.
Biomechd_While I'm currently connected, did you confirm wether my cord should or won't work?
VanessaE[10-30 23:13] <evilroot> Biomechd: You should be good then, yes
Biomechd_Okidoke, thanks.
VanessaEACTION looks over at her printer and wonders what to print.
evilrootVanessaE: hopefully never again, heh
evilrootBuilt my first printer from scratch in 06
evilrootThings have come a long way, heh
VanessaEoh and I finally took some others' advice here and removed those fercockta springs at the corners. mounted the bed on solid standoffs.
evilrootBiomechd_: if it catches fire you know its wrong
evilrootACTION works on far crazier things than 3d printers nowadays
evilrootBut I do still love my printers :-D
Biomechd_One day, I'll PRINT far crazier things. :p
evilrootI get roped into keeping the various machines at my local hackerspace running
evilrootPrint that, hehe
evilrootThat's one of the industrial robots I currently have milling parts :D
Biomechd_lol yes
evilroot1000mm/sec move speed
evilroot15kg payload
evilroot60 micron X/Y and 40 Z
Biomechd_I AM INVINCIBLE!!! *dead*
evilrootI should put an extruder on one just for shits and giggles
VanessaEyou know, I could just see someone loading one of those with a 1.x mm nozzle and pellet feed
evilrootFunny part is they cost me less than a decent 3d printer
VanessaEsort of a cartesian equivalent to the part daddy or bigdelta or whatever the hell it's called
evilrootBut then I had to buy 14 of them at auction
evilrootDown to 4 now, I've sold most of the spares on various CNC forums
evilrootI use three for my own purposes, all I can fit in my production room
evilrootBeyond the contract work I'm doing now I hope to use them to produce my own design of 3d printer
VanessaEone of those would make a good basis for an over-sized corexy-like design
VanessaEor no, whatever they call bed-moves-in-Z design
BiomechdUsing my neighbor's wifi (with his permission) through my window and down 3 floors to his. Move my phone too far away and it cuts out.
evilrootThey function just like any other XYZ machine
VanessaEoh ok
evilrootJust with no split axis, heh
VanessaEnevertheless. do it do it do it do it do it
evilrootI do still have one more to sell if you want one, heh
evilrootA 600x400x200MM
VanessaEhah, no. at that size I wouldn't even have a place to put it, let alone the money to buy it :P
VanessaEwait, 600x400?
VanessaEthey look a LOT larger than that in the pic
VanessaEmini palette?
evilrootNaw, that one is 1000x600x250
evilrootThat's a 600x400
VanessaEthe pic still makes it look huge,
VanessaEbanana for scale? :)
evilrootThat's the working area
evilrootThe bot itself is FAR larger
evilrootSee how big the carriage and frame are compared to how far the axis can actually move?
VanessaEmakes sense now
evilrootHence strong enough to mill steel, heh
VanessaEsingle-start leadscrew? for some reason I expected something else
evilrootInherently 0 backlash
VanessaEI need to make a point to read more about such things. I'm getting rusty (and outdated :P )
evilrootBeautiful machines. I was at the auction for something else and lost my head
evilrootLuckily I've managed to sell the excess machines
VanessaEsomeone needs to make the bot answer :P
SomtingwonCan i ask yall a question bout buying a printer?
VanessaEgthx: hello is hi and welcome to the den of 3d printing nutjobs ;)
gthxVanessaE: Okay.
gthxAsk your question directly, you don't need to ask permission to ask a question!
VanessaESomtingwon: what's your question?
SomtingwonId like to buy a printer for making dnd minatures, terrain and cosplay
SomtingwonSo something with good build volume
SomtingwonIm torn btw wanhao i3 duplicator
SomtingwonAnd maker select
SomtingwonPrice range around 400
VanessaEthe i3 design is generally good for such things
VanessaEhm, the dup i3 on amazon has a metal frame, that's good
evilrootYep, i3 is a solid design
VanessaEdirect-drive non-geared extruder though, not so good imho
SomtingwonDumb question but why do they call them i3s? Does the i3 indicate the prusa i3 design or processor chipset?
evilrootVanessaE: more reliable than you would expect
VanessaESomtingwon: iteration 3
VanessaEas in Josef Prusa printer design, iteration 3 after the Menbdel
evilrootLoosely based on the Prusa i3
SomtingwonAhh so if it says i3 its made using the mendel design
VanessaEmost likely the processor will be an arduino+RAMPS, or perhaps a RAMBO. maybe a smoothieboard?
evilrootUsing cheap Chinese parts
VanessaEall of that aside, because it's an i3 variant, it'll have roughly a 200mm^3 build volume
evilrootThey use their own board, but it is basically a low cost all single board solution compatible with RAMPs 1.4
VanessaEif it's the BASE design that is, regardless of who makes it
VanessaEevilroot: that'd be RAMBo then wouldn't it?
evilrootNot quite
VanessaESomtingwon: you might consider the Prusa i3 MK3. it's pricey, but you can be 100% certain of the design and specs because Prusa himself makes them.
VanessaEevilroot: ok
evilrootIts a seperate tethered control box, that's used by pretty much all Chinese clones
VanessaEevilroot: must be a new-ish thing. mine's essentially a chinese clone, but arduino+RAMPs mounted flat to the side of the frame
evilrootWell I should put this in perspective
evilrootThe Wanhao machines are good for the price. But if you want production level you will need several upgrades and modifications
VanessaEthat's true for quite a number of printers out there right now though
evilrootAnd they are not use out of box. You will need to do all manner of tweaks to get good prints
evilrootHeh, guess we overwhelmed him
evilrootEven a Prusa i3 takes a good deal of time and skill to assemble
evilrootIf you want a printer ready to go buy a Lulzbot
evilroot(well, for an amateur)
somtingwonsorry bout that
somtingwonthank you for the advice
BiomechdSo I'm a tad concerned. The digital instructions label the left z-axis motor to the left of the heatbed plug (if looking at the plug), but then the z-axis limit switch is located on the opposite side. Is this anything to worry about?
BiomechdDidn't think so.
evilrootIf you're using a split Z axis design you only have a switch on one side, and it doesn't matter which
evilrootBut you need to make sure that when that switch hits both sides are at the exact same distance from the base
evilrootThat is the inherent weakness of designs that use two screws and motors for Z or a linked belt for Y
evilrootPretty much all commercial printers do one or the other
evilrootSomething I've been working on eliminating
VanessaElinked belt?
VanessaE(as for two motors on Z, some printers have a belt between them don't they?)
evilrootVanessaE: Not that I've ever seen
VanessaEI know I've seen at least one online
evilrootOnline yes, there are all sorts of crazy designs. But never in person.
evilrootAnd I've built, calibrated, or repaired at least 100 printers over the past decade
somtingwonis 300 a good price for a wanhao duplicator plus?
VanessaEproblem with the i3 design in that respect, if you want to keep the frame unchanged, you have to put the belt/pulleys at the top of the Z screws, and you really can't do that with the usual threaded rods (too much wobble)
VanessaEneed lead screws or something
ccecilsells mendel and railcore both have belt between leadscrews
ccecilas in...original mendel
somtingwonI live next to microcenter and can buy an unboxed one.
evilrootccecil: and it was replaced by dual moters almost immediately
ccecilI have a sells with dual motors and dual belts but that is a different thing
VanessaEsomtingwon: the price is fair but expect to need to make upgrades here and there.
evilrootBecause it was highly unrealiable
ccecilbecause people couldn't tune it
evilrootWanhao i3 will always be between 300-250
goalcamMarlin 2.0 is extremely fucking nigh
ccecilnot because unreliable...once you set it then it is fine
somtingwonare there often blackfriday/cyber mon sales for printers?
VanessaEgoalcam: wait, 2.0?!
somtingwonany to look forward too?
ccecilI have 2 sells with a belt between and one with 2 motors and 2 belts
VanessaEhell I'm still on 1.1.0 I think
VanessaEor close to it
goalcamThe big thing for me at least is 32 bit support is soon
goalcam1.1.5 or .6 is the latest right now I believe, they did a big refactor + 32 bit support
evilrootUsing a belt unless you have a VERY, VERY well built machine leads to uneven layers
VanessaEevilroot: because of Z wobble?
VanessaEyeah, hence my comment about lead screws
ccecilit is all about tuning...and z wobble isn't the big issue
evilrootIts doable with a very high quality anti-backlash belt and excellent tension
ccecilalignment is what effects the z wobble...not the belt...from my experience
ccecilbut whatever...I am one of the people who liked the sells :)
evilrootI approach 3d printers from the perspective of someone that has had to fix and upgrade them, and deal with users
evilrootEach design has its strengths and weaknesses and "approachability"
evilrootWell, except for the MakerBot Replicator which just sucks in every way possible
evilrootFucking trash machines
VanessaEwell what did you expect?
VanessaE'nuff said right?
evilrootWe know that NOW
VanessaEsaw a pic of their new "experimental" extruder... looks like the same old BS. direct drive motor feeding into an E3D clone
evilrootBut back in the day they were supposed to be the heralds of home 3d printing
evilrootSomething for the "everyman"
evilrootInstead an over engineered machine that breaks if you look at it wrong
evilrootIt takes FIVE MINUTES to boot
evilrootMy goddamned PC didn't take that long . . . . TEN YEARS AGO
VanessaEwait what?
VanessaEthe printer takes ...what?
evilrootYou've clearly never used one
evilrootI'm not even kidding
VanessaEand I'm thankful to not have
VanessaEmy i3 takes...what, 2 seconds?
evilrootOh and the extruder is attached with MAGNETS
evilrootNot even strong ones
evilrootSo if filament rubs a bit it pulls the extruder enough that the pogo pins lose contact
evilrootAnd then its absurdly over complex software stops EVERYTHING
evilrootPeople know MakerBot is bad. But only those who have actually had to work with one of their machines knows WHY
BiomechdSo my extruder hangs off the bed on the x-axis by 2mm. As in, the first 2mm on the x-axis aren't over the bed.
VanessaEBiomechd: adjust your X end stop.
VanessaEand compensate in firmware if it won't reach past the other side of the bed
VanessaE(you DO have software endstops enabled in firmware, right?)
VanessaE(well I do anyways, as my bot only has one endstop switch for each axis)
BiomechdWell, the screen's saying "endstop hit"
VanessaEyou mean when it actually makes contact?
VanessaEor all the time?
BiomechdKinda looking like all the time now.
VanessaEinvert the end stop signal in your firmware then (there should be settings for each axis)
gthxm114 is reporting the printers current X, Y, Z and E coordinates
VanessaEhm, no
gthxm115 is a G-code, see
VanessaEdamn it, what was the command
VanessaEah, m119
VanessaEuse that first to make sure the firmware can read the switches properly
VanessaEmight be a good idea to m84 first, to cut power to the motors, so you can slid the axes around freely
evilrootACTION facepalms
evilrootThe first rule of fixing 3d printer problems
VanessaEwhat, always have hair restorer on-hand? :P
evilrootIts damned near impossible to do off site
evilrootUnless the other person actually knows what they're doing, heh
VanessaEoh heh
VanessaEwell that's true for pretty much any tech support
evilrootMuch moreso
evilrootMost people have a general understanding of how software works. But throw in complex mechanical systems and obscure code and its a crap shoot
evilrootI liken it to a car. What mechanic will try to troubleshoot "my car doesn't work right" over the phone
evilrootYOU CAN'T
evilrootIts literally impossible
evilrootWhereas in person I can just do a few things and say yep, your X is broken
VanessaEmakes me glad I know enough to do my own maintenance (at least where my size, strength, or lack of stamina isn't an issue)
evilrootI couldn't afford to drive a BMW if I didn't work on it myself, heh
VanessaEI drive a beat-up old 92 cadillac
evilrootBut I've repaired trucks, tractors, forklifts, even an excavator once
evilrootI drive a heavily customized 03 BMW 325i "sleeper"
evilrootEssentially an M3 in a regular 325i chassis
VanessaEif the engine in mine ran better, it'd be decent as well.
VanessaEused to have a respectable 0-60, for a land yacht :P
evilrootLast week my power steering pump failed. $1100 for the mecahnic to replace
VanessaEjesus fuck
evilrootDid it for $153 myself :-D
evilroot92 Caddy . . . . DeVille?
VanessaEfor 1100 you may as well have been told to replace the whole damned engine.
VanessaEyeah, it's an old deVille.
evilrootWelcome to BMW
VanessaEone of the last made before they started using the northstar engine
evilrootMan, those are actually pretty damned nice engines. Frames not so much
evilroot4.9 V8, they don't die
VanessaEthe northstar or the L26?
VanessaE(mine's an L26 I guess, ain't northstar anyway)
evilrootDamned reliable
VanessaEyeah, as engines go it's a workhorse
VanessaEeven when I managed to break one of the rocker arm mounts, it kept on running
VanessaE(that was easy to fix though)
evilrootNorthstar makes a ton of power and torque but they're finicky
VanessaEyeah so I've heard
evilrootL26 4.9 keeps running no matter how much you abuse it
VanessaEI try not to abuse mine :)
evilrootAnd easy to rebuild
evilroot(well compared to others)
VanessaE(actually its only real problem these days is just a couple of stuck lifters, some lucas ought to fix that, and it gets shitty gas mileage for its age)
VanessaE(could use a new oil pump too, but what's in there still works)
evilrootNOOOO, no Lucas
VanessaEno? my mechanic recommended it
evilrootWhat you want is MMO
VanessaEoh that
VanessaEI've used it before
evilrootMarvel Mystery Oil
VanessaEyep I know
evilrootIf that doesn't work, Seafoam
evilrootAnd if that doesn't work you need the heads redone
VanessaEsea foam directly into the oil?
evilrootYes, its the "nuclear option"
VanessaEI've run that through the tank and intake/vacuum, but not in the oil system.
VanessaEhaven't used MMO in years (or the seafoam for that matter)
evilrootYou add to the oil, drive it ten miles EXACTLY, then change the oil
VanessaEI'll give it a shot
evilrootAnd if that doesn't get rid of lifter tick then its purely mechanical
VanessaEand I would really hate to have to tear the damned intake manifold apart
VanessaEgood engine, but too much crap on top
evilrootBut usually draining a quart of oil and adding a quart of MMO will fix it
evilrootAnd you can leave it in
VanessaEI'll try it then
VanessaEguess I'll return the bottle of lucas :)
evilrootFixes 4 out of 5 lifter issues
VanessaEoil change due in about 1000 miles, fwiw
evilrootThen do the MMO
VanessaE(I drive maybe 20 percent as much as the average person, so 1000 miles will be like 6 more months :P )
evilrootAnd if that doesn't work after 1k do Seafoam
evilrootBut I mean it when I say drive 10 miles ONLY and then drain it hot
VanessaEout of curiosity, why 10 miles?
evilrootIt will dissolve ALL the crud
VanessaEinclusing the crud that keeps the seals sealed.
evilrootThat's why 10. Anything more and it will harm seals
VanessaEgot it.
evilroot10 is just enough to make like an emulsion and drain it all out
evilrootKind of like making a sauce in a pan
VanessaEriiight, that makes sense. 10 miles is an easy measure anyways, one trip from here to Wal-mart and then to the oil change place nearest to me (the one I always use anyway) is right at about 10 miles I think.
evilrootYou don't change your own oil?
Duckleyou're supposed to change oil?
evilrootYou should, most places cut corners. And its so easy
DuckleI'm mostly kidding. I know you should, but I've only had a car for < 1year, and don't currently have one
VanessaEI should qualify that: Until I moved to where I am now, which was a month and a half ago, I lived where changing one's oil would be literally a pain in the ass (read: gravel driveway made of those big, sharp grey rocks), and anyway I'm too fat and tired to get down under the car these days
Ducklethat's about what I know about car maintenence though
evilrootAlso if you Seafoam and then take it to a commercial shop they will lose their shit, haha
Duckleoh and, if you can't feel that thing in the grooves of the tires, it's worn down too much
evilrootWhen that nasty black sludge comes out
VanessaEwhere I live now is a nice paved driveway so I can probably do it myself. might just have to if I end up throwing seafoam at it
Ducklesea foaaam?
evilrootMechanic's best friend
VanessaEa petrochemical designed to clean out the crap in your engine
VanessaEsmells like... um, denatured alcohol if I remember right
VanessaE(though it isn't actually dna)
Ducklesounds like a foam used to protect from salty sea gusts
Ducklecertainly doesn't sound like soemthing you'd put in an engine :P
evilrootMy best friend is an ASE mechanic that specializes in imports and classics
VanessaEyou can pull it through a vacuum line for top-cylinder cleaning, or in the gas tank for the rest of the fuel system, or as evilroot and I were talking, directly into the oil system as a nuke option
evilrootHe buys the stuff by the gallon
Ducklethe next time I'll have a car, I think I'll just take it to the mechanic for anything worse than changing bulbs or oil
VanessaEevilroot: so, they'll lose their shit eh? oh well, let 'em ;)
evilrootIts like prescription medicine. If you don't know what you're doing too little or too much does more harm than good
evilrootBut if you do, it is effective as hell
VanessaEthat reminds me, you got a good suggestion for hose clamps that can tolerate gas?
evilrootYour standard stainless ones?
VanessaEoh ok, so then I can forget what I was thinking.
Duckleevilroot: I uhm. When does too little prescription drugs do worse?
evilrootOften bigger ones are just coated steel
DuckleI guess it makes time pass with no propper effort being put in to solving the issue, making it worse, but eh
evilrootDuckle: when they're not strong enough to cure an infection and thus make it more resistant?
VanessaEa while back I had to replace the fuel pump, but it's the kind that sits inside the tank, has a short ~10cm length of hose between it and the external outlet pipe, but the upper end of the hose is positioned "perfectly" such that a leak will spray gas right into the damned EVAP line. and you know what that'll do.
Duckleevilroot: Oh, right
VanessaEI was thinking maybe that leak has started up again, hence needing a new clamp. but since I know I used stainless clamps there, that probably ain't it.
evilrootYEah, those used in tank pumps
BiomechdWelp, it's past midnight here, so imma get to bed and mess with my printer more tomorrow.
evilrootBut also plastic hose nipples. You have to be careful they don't crack
VanessaE(I was thinking the leak had started up again, and was the cause of the shitty fuel econ)
evilrootCheck your fuel pressure
VanessaEjust wish I could afford to buy a nice all-electric :)
evilrootThere is a test point on the injector rail
VanessaEalready replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
VanessaE(it was bad)
evilrootDoesn't matter if there is a leak somewhere
VanessaEI'll eventually figure it ouit
evilrootYou can rent the tool at any Autozone or Advance
evilrootFor free
VanessaEit's just one of those "I'll get around to it when money isn't a concern" (assuming the need for parts of some kind)
evilrootNo money needed to test
VanessaEoh I know.
evilrootHell often its just an old fuel cap
VanessaEI just meant for the actual repair, whatever the test says
VanessaEnope, that's been replaced as well
VanessaEmy best guess, without getting out there to test (and assuming that little fuel pump hose is still sealed properly), is that the stuck lifters and/or low oil pressure are preventing valves from opening all the way.. either that or maybe clogged injectors
evilrootSo seafoam in the tank, hehe
VanessaEI guess it's time. seafoam in the tank and MMO in the opil
evilrootOr just pull the fuel rail and replace the injectors
VanessaEfuck no
VanessaEoh nononono it's not that... injectors for this engine are fucking expensive
VanessaElike $100 apiece
VanessaEor $90, something like that
evilrootThen use the 9v battery trick
VanessaEI figured that was what you meant
VanessaEI was thinking clog rather than a mechanical jam, not unlike a hotend clog from cheap filament
evilrootA 9v battery is nearly perfect to open an injector to max
VanessaEcouldn't hurt to check them out though
evilrootAnd then you just squirt carb cleaner through
evilrootOh no, I mean clog
VanessaEhm, that's an idea
VanessaEI had not even considered that
evilrootYou use the little straw on the bottle, put it right into the inlet. Then open and close as you spray and it just blasts everything out.
VanessaEwatching a video for it now
evilrootSee, this is the kind of shit I learned from having a grizzled expert mechanic as a friend
VanessaEyou know, I always thought a fuel injector sprayed MUCH finer than this (here, I see four or five evenly-spaced thin streams when the guy actuates the injector)
VanessaEthe *cleaned* injector that is
evilrootWhereas he would bring me instrument clusters and have me solder a single capacitor
evilrootYeah, its not like an inkjet printer
evilrootJust fine mist streams
VanessaEthis wasn't even a mist
VanessaEit was streams
evilrootYeah. The newer the engine the finer usually, but it varies
VanessaEI expected more like a regular squirt bottle on the "spray" setting, i.e. a cone of coarse mist
evilrootWell you have to keep in mind that fuel aerosolizes
evilrootIt sprays, but then as the cylinder drops and moves up it does become a mist
VanessaEI expected something like the third from left in this image
VanessaEhm, ok that makes sense
evilrootLook at the bottom of that picture
VanessaEI saw that
VanessaEI get what you're saying
evilrootHow even, right in the middle
VanessaEI guess it can't really aerosolize too soon anyway, has to get past the intake valve
evilrootNo . . . . you're spraying right into the cylinder
VanessaEyou sure about that?
VanessaEI think this engine has the injector right behind the valve
Flipp_wtf, seriously?
Flipp_a fly decided to die
evilrootYes. The intake pulls in AIR
Flipp_inbetween the lcd and the glass
VanessaEinteresting, I could swear..
evilrootErm wait, you're right haha
Flipp_short of taking the damn lcd apart, I can't get it out D:
evilrootI'm a bit tipsy, heh
VanessaEI was gonna say, I thought only diesel engines did that :D
evilrootBut yeah, you spray fuel, mix with air, then draw into the cylinder
Flipp_anyone here have a prusa i3 mk2 with original printed bed w/PEI?
evilrootThe important part is that it is a steady stream that is very straight
VanessaEnot I, sorry Flipp_
VanessaEand also, well...take the LCD apart :P
VanessaEor replace it
evilrootIf any of the channels are blocked or weak you get incompetent combustion
Flipp_I mean, it works... but just frustrating that it's the one part that is hard to disassemble :)
VanessaEincompetent? :)
evilrootThe ECU can only compensate for so much
Flipp_stoopid fly...
evilrootYes, like erectile dysfunction!
VanessaEbtw, something of note: tailpipe is a little sooty, but there's none of the usual smoke one associates with extreme fuel usage
evilrootFlipp_: that's hilarious
evilrootVanessaE: that's because the ECU compensates by running the engine lean
Flipp_but yeah, the PEI problem is a bit more problematic
Flipp_I'm seeing a weird pattern of... I guess it looks like bubbles
Flipp_in the PEI sheet
Flipp_the problem is it seem to be warping the PEI sheet a bit, which wrecks havoc with my first layer :C
VanessaEevilroot: which results in excessive gas usage because not enough power?
evilrootYep, exactly
VanessaEthis is one of those paradoxes I've never quite understood about cars/engines
evilrootIt monitors if there is unburnt fuel in the exhaust
VanessaE*nod* O2 sensor
evilrootIf so it introduces more air and less fuel
VanessaEsure, that part makes perfect sense
evilrootAn ECU will ALWAYS prioritize everything towards not allowing unburnt fuel
evilrootNo matter how backwards that might be
evilrootOr counterproductive
VanessaEright, which then raises the question: if the fuel economy is shitty because of e.g. dirty injectors, where does the excess fuel go? surely it isn't liquid entering the exhaust?
Flipp_err, v-tec would argue that evilroot :)
evilrootThat's the point, there isn't excess fuel. It instead adds more air and injects less fuel
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: it can be
HrdwrBoByou can't add more air
VanessaEHrdwrBoB: you have wandered into #reprap where we talk about everything BUT repraps :P
HrdwrBoBthe air is wwhat it is
Flipp_VanessaE: srsly
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: no I'm saying people are talking crap
evilrootBut yes, sometime it does blow it out the exhaust
HrdwrBoBnot the subject
HrdwrBoB a modern ECU in closed loop simply logs air fuel ratio and adjusts the fuel input to target that AGR
evilrootYou're right, heh
evilrootCan't change air
evilrootJust fuel
HrdwrBoBtypically most cars have a MAF unit which measures air flow, and bases the initial fuelling on that
VanessaEevilroot: let's put it a different way.... if the car's rated for 16 mpg and it gets ~11.5...where's the extra fuel being lost to?
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: ratings are useless bullshit
HrdwrBoBif it PREVIOUSLY got 16 mp0g
Flipp_evilroot: hm... that only works with non-cam valves
evilrootIts not being lost. The engine just isn't running at its peak efficiency
HrdwrBoBunder the same conditions
VanessaEHrdwrBoB: well it used to get close to its rated mileage
HrdwrBoBthen it's injecting extra fuel
HrdwrBoBwhich is being burnt
Flipp_evilroot: you can, assuming the valves are electronically controlled
Flipp_and not cam-based
evilrootShe drives a 92 DeVille
HrdwrBoBthere's a wide range of workable air-fuel rations
Flipp_sorry, internets on my garage laptop are supa shitty
Flipp_evilroot: ah, yeah, definitely CAM controlled :)
evilrootVanessaE: think of it like trying to ride a bicycle uphill
VanessaEheh, this engine definitely predates VTEC and the like :)
HrdwrBoBmy engine has variable cams
evilrootIf you use a low gear its very easy
HrdwrBoBit uses an oil driven actuator on the front to change the cam angle
HrdwrBoBbut the fuckers developed a leak
VanessaEevilroot: sure. I might expend 100 calories per hour instead of e.g. 150
HrdwrBoBand I had to replace them
evilrootBut if you use a high gear you will struggle. Use a TON of effort to GO
evilrootIts the same idea basically.
HrdwrBoB.. it's not really
VanessaE(s/calories/kcal/g for you euro folk)
HrdwrBoBbut ok
HrdwrBoBthe most common failure is the O2 sensor in the exhaust
evilrootHrdwrBoB: it is because instead of you changing to a lower gear the engine's sensors don't
HrdwrBoBthe open loop fuel trims run off the O2 sensor
VanessaEHrdwrBoB: already replaced like 1000 miles ago
HrdwrBoBevilroot: except cars have gears as well
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: new one might be fauly
evilrootClogged injectors are the issue here FYI
VanessaE(this engine has a MAP sensor, but I don't believe it has an actual MAF sensor)
evilrootWe think heh
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: the other option is a vacuum leak
VanessaEHrdwrBoB: a significant probability.
VanessaEdamned if I could locate any leaks last time I tried
HrdwrBoBI have a special tool for identifying vacuum leaks
evilrootL26 generally has pretty beefy hoses
VanessaEHrdwrBoB: stethescope without the endpiece? :)
HrdwrBoBit's a stepped hose end with a tyre valve on it
HrdwrBoBso you connect your compressor to it and pressurise the intake
VanessaEinteresting idea.
evilrootVac leak isn't the first thing I would expect
HrdwrBoBthen grab your spray bottle of soapy water
VanessaEevilroot: beefy yes, but not very good on the actual materials. I've replaced some dry-rotted hoses over the years.
HrdwrBoBI diagnosed a broken subaru on the weekend over facebook messenger with only the description 'it lost boost on the track'
VanessaE(of course a 25 year old engine ought to have some dry rot I guess)
HrdwrBoBI said it was probably the intercooler to throttle body hose, and it was
evilrootI like the cigar trick for vac leaks
VanessaEohh I never thought of that.
VanessaEI could just imagine going into the store and asking for the cheapest cigars they have ;)
HrdwrBoBI have to test for vacuum AND boost leaks
HrdwrBoBso I use my tester to test to significant pressure
evilrootHrdwrBoB: for a Subaru with a turbo that would make sense
HrdwrBoBto make sure there's no leaks when it's under pressure
HrdwrBoBevilroot: obviously it was a subaru with a turbo :)
VanessaEwouldn't mind having a blower on mine :)
HrdwrBoB like that
VanessaEcan you imagine the look on someone's face, you pull up, they give you that "let's race your in your grandma car", and you stomp the gas and leave them in the dust :)
VanessaEs/your in/you in/
evilrootHeh, anybody who knows cars knows damned well what that is
HrdwrBoBmost legacies are slow
VanessaEwhat, HrdwrBoB's pic?
VanessaE(I actually didn't know what kind of car that is)
HrdwrBoBplus without the scoop people generally don't realise
VanessaEsleeper :)
HrdwrBoBVanessaE: subaru legacy GT (known in australia as a liberty GT)
VanessaEgive the age of my car though, if I put any real boost into that engine it would probably blow apart :P
HrdwrBoBcrate engine
evilrootHere we just know that as a GT
evilrootI just see that trim and say "nope"
evilrootIts the wheel wells that give it away
HrdwrBoBthe wheel wells are the same as standard
HrdwrBoBor do you mean the wheels and the brakes etc
evilrootAh, we have a slightly different version here
evilrootBut I've only owned and worked on older Subarus
HrdwrBoBmine is very far from stock, so it might not be the same as what you have :)
evilrootMy last was an 06 Legacy Outback that I did a head gasket on
HrdwrBoByeah this is an 05
HrdwrBoB interior
evilrootWheel on the wrong side :-D
evilrootMy mechanic buddy had an 07 Impreza WRX STI with custom tubro
evilrootThat thing was scary
Nooblet101what cad you guys using?
evilrootI drive an 03 BMW 325i "sleeper"
VanessaENooblet101: blender.
VanessaE(I'm the insane one, for using it for 3d printable models :) )
evilrootWith an S54 under the hood, hehe
Nooblet101blender never struck my fancy
VanessaEit has the advantage of being 100% free, OSS, and available on pretty much every platform
VanessaE(aside from the fact that it's good for game models)
Nooblet101openscad does fit those first sentence requirements ;), but yeah I kow its a perfectly capable option
Nooblet101I use fusion 360, or openscad mostly
VanessaEtrue enough
VanessaEof course, I started with blender for game models, just kept using it when I got into 3d printing because, well, I already knew it, you know?
fx9if installing a tmc2100, you need to set the jumpers to 1/16 right? then adjust the steps per mm in smoothie?
VanessaEevilroot: there IS one thing the northstar and others have that I wish the L26 had... a knock sensor, so I that didn't have to spend 50% more for premium gas :P
Nooblet101fx9 well the jumper setting depend on what your after, 1/16 is usually good, (and the best the a4988 can do thats assumed) and yes you must sets steps per mm in any firmware to whatever the number is
fx9my board can do 1/32
VanessaEmaybe it's just noisy in my room, but I don't find the 1/16 stepping on my bot to be especially loud
fx9i wonder if it'll work if i set my jumpers to 1/32 then put the tmc2100s in
evilrootI find the sound lulling
evilrootKind of like the drone of fans on rackmount servers
evilrootA comforting sound
PoopieHead.Guys my orusa edition slic3r is acting really weird. It repositions objects when it slices them causing parts to overlap when they shouldn't.
PoopieHeadAnyone else seen thing strange behavior?
VanessaEno clue on that, sorry
VanessaEthough I could swear I saw mention of that before, recently
PoopieHeadI kinda did. Sorry. I tried #slic3r. But it's kinda quite there
VanessaEhave you tried upstream (not-prusa-edition) Slic3r?
VanessaEI haven't noticed such a bug in that.
VanessaE(you don't need the prusa edition for most things, on prusa printers)
PoopieHeadSlic3r has a different variety of bug it seems, like a weird gap fill and extrusion calculation issue.
PoopieHeadThats why i switched over to the Prusa Slic3r
PoopieHeadBut that is a very logical suggestion that skipped my mind
PoopieHeadHey VanessaE, I just got the latest version of Slic3rPE and replaced all the old files.
PoopieHeadSeems sorted. No random repositioning. Should have tried this and the original Slic3r earlier.
VanessaEthat sometimes helps ;)
PoopieHeadThanks for your time today!
VanessaEyou're quite welcome, not that I did much :P
alteregoGood Morning!
VanessaEgood morning.
PoopieHeadHave a swell day everyone!
VanessaEcheers, PoopieHead.
jammithe current -dev versions position new objects noncentered, each time further outside the bed area
jammistarted like a week ago
jammitapping "arrange" solves it, but it seems like some automatic arrange call after adding objects is missing or something like that
VanessaEjammi: I *did* notice thjat
VanessaEI thought it was a bug in my model
PoopieHeadAmother on the fly workaround would be to arrange the objects as you want them and export them as an STL
PoopieHeadThen import ans slice that STL.
PoopieHeadThat stops individual portions from jumping around, since now it's on whole
Nebukadnezacorecode: ping again
XXCoderwow huge dead snake
gthx => if this dosn&#39;t make you jump nothing will => 1 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubesup nerds
XXCoderhey TheHexaCube
XXCoderwhats up on horrors day
TheHexaCubeheh, not much to be honest :P
XXCodercheck out dead snake
gthx => if this dosn&#39;t make you jump nothing will => 2 IRC mentions
XXCoderits huge!
TheHexaCubehaha gender neutral and caramel-phobic are great :P
XXCodersome of em is pretty important as some candy do have dairy in it
XXCoderwhile some is just silly
XXCodersome is just bullshit in certain ways - gluten-free, organic
LoneTechXXCoder: as someone who gets severe pain and explosive diarrhea from tiny doses of gluten, I call BS on you calling that BS in general.
XXCoderLoneTech: like I said
XXCoderin certain ways
XXCoderlike gluten-free water
LoneTechalso, it's surprisingly common in candies. chili nuts, cracker based things, candy tubes etc
LoneTechwith my sensitivity I'd just not eat anything that's been mixed in with those
TheHexaCubei personally think it's very impolite to ask for a "special candy" if you're being given some for free
TheHexaCubejust be happy you got anything at all and give whatever candy you can't to other kids
XXCoderTheHexaCube: besides allegy stuff yes
buZzTheHexaCube: i just give them soup
buZzfuck candy
XXCoderLoneTech: I do know real gluten allegy exists. just that pretty large percent its all bullshit
LoneTechsure, dependent on attitude. but when your entire stash would get ruined by someone dropping a couple of chilinuts on it, it makes sense to be alert.
buZzboiling hot soup
buZzso they dont come back next year
LoneTechI know. I mind that particular fad a bit less because demand means I get more options.
XXCoder get ready with TP
TheHexaCubeLoneTech: well where I come from, candy is packaged anyways sooo... no "contamination" should happen anyways :P
TheHexaCubebut I dunno how it's in other countries
buZzXXCoder: hahahahaha
TheHexaCubeLOL XXCoder
XXCoderapparently some lady posted that and said "all ready for holloween!"
XXCodertrolling? dunno
LoneTechfact is the only ones actually hurt by widespread gluten free diets are the distributors of gluten rich grain
LoneTechit's not a specific protein anybody needs afaik
XXCoderlone dont you get workers that think youre shitting em?
XXCoderafter bunch people on that fad
LoneTechrarely. that aspect sucks.
duude_xxcoder I just survive on my pla pasta
duude_everything a growing geek needs
XXCoderwhat a plasticific foo
duude_damn u cura!
buZzno u cura!
duude_its a love hate thing :/
buZznot a hatelove thing?
TheHexaCubehrrrm, finished kimi no na wa this night, man it was... actually kinda confusing
LoneTechyour name is? not a very telling title
TheHexaCubeTL;DR guy and girl switch bodies randomly and they try to meet up
TheHexaCubebut man the visuals were incredible
TheHexaCubeso much detail and... just pretty
LoneTechthanks for the tip
TheHexaCubethe dub came out yesterday which is why I watched it :P
LoneTechone of my favourites is "whisper of the heart"
TheHexaCubehmm, don't know that one - i gotta be honest I never watched any Ghibli-movie
TheHexaCubereally should do that though :P
LoneTechfew of them are connected. whisper of the heart should probably be seen before the cat returns.. most of them are excellent
LoneTechdo not start with grave of the fireflies. it's about silence of the lambs level, but hits closer to home.
LoneTechsome of the others can also be severely scary, including Princess Mononoke and Spirited Away
TheHexaCubeI wonder if there's a downside to using an LM317 as a constant current supply
Mangy_Dogvoltage regs are inefficiant get warm
Mangy_Doghot even
Mangy_Dogdepends on what your driving
Mangy_Dogthe vregs in my speedo project, the ones driving the leds get vry hot if all the leds are running
Mangy_Dogeven with a heat sync too hot to touch
Mangy_Dogim considdering fitting a buck converter instead
TheHexaCubeyeah the LM317 has like a 3V foward voltage or something, but at 20mA that's what, 60mW
Seeker`afaik, they pretty much just burn off the voltage difference. So if you're drawing 100mA, and giving an input voltage of 12v for an LED, you're probably buring about 1W
TheHexaCuberight, so if I keep the voltage difference rather low, it should work quite well
Seeker`and those packages do something like 90 degrees/W
TheHexaCubeI have a supply voltage of 24V, the LEDs have a forward voltage of around 1.2V
Seeker`hmm, depends on the package actually. 4-pin ones are about 66C/W, larger packages are closer to 40C/W
Seeker`TheHexaCube: how much current are you drawing?
TheHexaCubeSeeker`: well, around 20mA maximum
TheHexaCubebecause I wanna drive the LEDs in series
Seeker`how many LEDs are you running?
TheHexaCubewell, a bit less than 20? if the LM317 needs a forward voltage of 3V, I got about 19V left
DuckleSeeker`: It's a TO220 right?
TheHexaCube19V/1.2V = ~15.8V
Ducklethose are more like 65C/W
TheHexaCubesooo.... 15 LEDs?
Seeker`Duckle: that suggests more like 40 for a TO-220
DuckleTheHexaCube: If you want to have some fun, make a DC-DC buck converter :)
TheHexaCubeso that's 4V*20mA = 80mW of heat?
DuckleSeeker`: Oh, that's pretty good
Seeker`TheHexaCube: how are you getting 15 LEDs at a decent brightness from 20mA?
DuckleSeeker`: series
Seeker`oh, yeah
DuckleTheHexaCube: Why the LM317 though?
TheHexaCubeDuckle: dunno, It'd probably work just as well with a resistor, right?
Duckleif you're sticking to 20mA for the entire chain, you might as well go with a resistor
TheHexaCubeDuckle: I was actually wondering, as long as the LEDs don't heat up, a resistor will always be fine, right?
Ducklethe LM317 used as a CC source is just a glorified resistor with easier to cool package
Seeker`TheHexaCube: as long as you get the expected voltage, yes
TheHexaCubethe constant current comes into play when the forward voltage changes due to heatup of the LED, right?
DuckleI don't think that's much of a concern with LEDs at 20mA
TheHexaCubebut in theory i'm right?
Duckledo LEDs have PN junctions?
Ducklei actually don't know
DuckleI mean, they work just like a PN junction, so I guess
TheHexaCubeDuckle: why build a converter? :P
TheHexaCubefuck why are those so cheeeeap
SpeedEvilMass production
DuckleTheHexaCube: Because making shit is fun :)
SpeedEvilAnd do not use a linear regulator unless you actually need a linear regulator
TheHexaCubeDuckle: although I have a couple buck converters here
TheHexaCubesuper tiny, too :P
TheHexaCubeto be used in my controller board someday
Duckleput in buck, take out doe
Ducklebuck converter
TheHexaCubeI... I'll pretend I didn't read that
TheHexaCubeDuckle: do you know why the forward voltage on an LED changes with the current pushed through it?
Duckleintuitively, yes, actually? No
DuckleI could find it rather quickly, had about it a year ago
Spirit532I want to end myself right now
Spirit532My camera got taxed $326
TheHexaCubedon't we all?
DuckleSpirit532: :O
Duckle326 buckerinos is a lot of beer money
Seeker`That must have been an expensive camera to start with
DuckleSpirit532: Did you buy that oldschool slowmo cam?
Ducklewith the 4kg germanium lense
Duckleor well, large lense
TheHexaCubeDuckle: that's like... 16 cases of good beer
DuckleSpirit532: What cam did you get?
Ducklethe hubble?
Spirit532Weinberger Visario g2 1500
Ducklejust by the name, and well, it being you. I'm guessing slomo cam?
Spirit5321536x1024 @ 1kfps
DuckleSpirit532: This one?
Spirit532... I didn't pay that much for it
Spirit532though that is that lot
Spirit532just best offer
Spirit532this is by far the most expensive camera of them all
Spirit532(that I bought)
Duckleyou're adicted
Spirit532a little
DuckleSpirit532: So when are you going phantom?
Spirit532when one shows up for $500
Ducklelike, the 4k ones
Spirit532they're $150k base price and are a waste of money
Ducklealso, question. How did the slowmoguys ever get one?
Spirit532Buy one
Ducklelike, what whould they be doing to warrant such a purchase?
Spirit532They make fuckloads of money through YouTube
Ducklethey do now
Ducklebut was that the plan from the getgo?
Spirit532one of the guys before did cine work
Spirit532and had one
Ducklejust, make dat ad money?
Spirit532I think they started with a v611
Spirit532it's around $30k
TheHexaCubeoh if it's just 30k
TheHexaCubeI guess I'll get one or two
Spirit532still not worth it
Spirit532iX Cameras make the best high speed cameras in the world
Spirit532including price to performance
Spirit532the i726 is $120k base price and does over 11kfps at 1920x1080
Ducklekronos all the way!
Spirit532and I think around 8500 fps @ 2560x1440
Spirit532it's the fastest camera in the world by throughput
Spirit532and is cheaper than the CLAIMED fastest by Vision Research, the V2512
Spirit532(which is around $160k IIRC)
Duckleso uhm
TheHexaCubewhy not
Spirit532if you need them you buy them
Duckleis Vision Research just better at marketing?
Duckleor do they offer better support / service / software?
Spirit532just more known
Spirit532iX Cameras was Olympus Imaging until like 2014 IIRC
DuckleI uhm. I'd hope one did the research before blowing >100k on a camera
Spirit532It's not even hard to do research
Spirit532I literally asked and they gave me, a pleb, the EXW price
Ducklea.k.a. there must be something to warrant the price jump between phantom and iX
Spirit532(there isn't)
Ducklebut.... why
Spirit532oh and btw
Ducklewhy does marketing work on that level :(
Spirit532the i726 is quieter than the v2512
Spirit532the v2512 sounds like a Sabre taking off
Spirit532the i726 is a little laptop fan
DuckleSpirit532: is cry cooled sensors a thing in mainstream (if there is such a thing) slowmo cams?
Ducklefor lower noise
Spirit532not cryo
Spirit532and yes for higher end
Spirit532look at this
Spirit532just casually 288GB RAM
TheHexaCubebut does it run minecraft
DuckleSpirit532: Send me 3
Spirit532it's Linux inside
Ducklefor free pls
Spirit532and a Windoze tablet for control
Spirit532you know one thing though?
Spirit532one thing I never get
Ducklefree money
Spirit532you've got a $120k camera in your hands
Spirit532and you upload in either 720p or 360p
Spirit532what the fuck
Ducklemore frames?
Spirit532you don't do that
gthx => Slow Motion i-SPEED 7 Reel from 46 Films => 1 IRC mentions
Ducklemore framemes
Spirit532this is like the only good showreel they have
TheHexaCubeDuckle: even if your source is 360p you still should upload it in full hd or better
TheHexaCubebecause youtube encodes videos better the higher the resolution is
Spirit532I upload all my videos in 4K
DuckleTheHexaCube: but my framememes
TheHexaCubeeg. less losses when viewing
Spirit532Duckle, look at the showreel
TheHexaCubefewer losses*
Spirit532they're running either at full or higher than full res
Ducklein class
Spirit532not like they're doing 200kfps
TheHexaCubeeg. a famous german youtuber started uploading FullHD material in upscaled 4k and the quality was alot better
Spirit532I have a 4K monitor
Spirit532upscaling 1080 to 4K works wonders if you do it in post
Duckleand takes aaaages
Ducklebut yeah, gotcha
Spirit532also Phantom Flex4K's footage is softer than a pillow and looks weird
Spirit532not worth $150k
TheHexaCubeDuckle: well there's a reason he has a dual CPU workstation with LOOADS of ram and several GPUs :P
DuckleSpirit532: Pillows shouldn't e soft
DuckleTheHexaCube: Touche
TheHexaCubehe can actually game next to doing that, lol
Spirit532I don't have a dual GPU workstation!
Spirit532or dual CPU :(
Duckleor dual mcu
Spirit532I have a shitty fx-8320 and a GTX 960
Duckleor dual bpu
Spirit532(running over 5K worth of displays)
Spirit532(yes I know)
TheHexaCubeof course there's several version of the rpi cams too
DuckleTheHexaCube: Get the v2
TheHexaCubethey seem to have different lenses
buZzTheHexaCube: i got a 'zeropi cam' 'wideangle version'
buZzquite nice camera
Duckleofficially there's the V1, V2, bot in IR filter and No IR filter versions
buZzoh, wait, fisheye even
Ducklethe lensed versions are thirdparty, and can be nice
Ducklethe zero versions have a smaller ribbon to work with the rpiz
TheHexaCubehrrrm, the v2 cam is 21€
TheHexaCubeand that's for reselling
TheHexaCubefor end use that's 27€
Spirit532man this is such a huge blow to my wallet
Spirit532I somewhat regret purchasing it
Spirit532what's done is done I guess
buZzTheHexaCube: well, dno, it not the best camera
DuckleSpirit532: I mean, you could resell it
buZza simple 'xbox 360 live vision camera' is 10 euro and quite better in dark scenarios
DuckleTheHexaCube: The V2 is much better than the v1
Ducklegood point, USB webcams are better value
Spirit532I probably won't ever be able to get another weinberger
Spirit532so I'll keep it
TheHexaCubeI like this one tbh
Spirit532and schedule a funeral for my paypal payment history
DuckleSpirit532: consider the cameras FIFO then :P
Ducklesell of some of your first buys :)
Spirit532well my first buy is currently scrap
DuckleTheHexaCube: That's a V1
Spirit532the second buy is 1280x1024 @ 1kfps @ 4GB
Spirit532and works really well
TheHexaCubeDuckle: yeah... but FullHD @ 30FPS should be good enough
Ducklethe V2 is 8MP, and has much better auto white balance
DuckleTheHexaCube: Get a webcam tbh
Spirit532my desk is getting dusty
TheHexaCubeit's mainly for monitoring anyways
TheHexaCubeDuckle: but but
Spirit532brb letting the instant problem solution pump up to 5 bar
Duckleas buzz said, an xbox 360 live blah is better
TheHexaCubebut prolly $$$?
Spirit532C920 webcam
buZzTheHexaCube: looks like same lens as on my zerocam
DuckleSpirit532: Not exactly cheap :)
Spirit532can be had cheap on ebay
buZzTheHexaCube: keep in mind that doesnt have a IR filter
TheHexaCubeyeah that's what I want. I want IR lighting :P
buZzah :)
DuckleI have the C910, took it appart recently. Turns out the issues I've had with it since I got it was not it overheating, but the internal USB connector not being soldered to the board
Duckleall cold joints
buZzi'm gonna put some SK6812 RGBW leds on my printer soonish
TheHexaCubehrrrmpf and once again I wish sellers would provide dimensional drawings
TheHexaCubeor CAD files >:(
jstevewhiteTheHexaCube: that shit costs extra
TheHexaCubeis there some software to determine dimensions from a phot?
TheHexaCubephew thank god, technical drawings!
imrclyphotogametry (sp)
TheHexaCubephotogrammetry requires images from different viewing points though :(
goalcamThere are some apps that will make floor plans
TheHexaCubedoes this look reasonable?
buZzTheHexaCube: i think there's some passives on the back aswell
TheHexaCubenah just two screws
TheHexaCube3rd image on aliexpress
TheHexaCubebut I wonder if there's a way to use solder for attaching the camera to a 2nd PCB
TheHexaCubemirror those 4 pads onto the 2nd PCB and heat? :P
SpeedEvilWhy would you use solder, and not bolts?
TheHexaCubebecause I hate bolts :P
Raazeerhi Y'all.
Raazeeror should that be all y'all?
Raazeeranyways, I've finally managed to get the bed clamps for my anycubic kossel built.
SpeedEvilBut if you really want to do that, a square slightly overlapping cutout of an existing PCB, with four holes punched out for the pads, and plated through edges on those holes and solder it
TheHexaCubeI.. think I don't quite follow now :(
Raazeerby the way, I had the stangest occurence with marlin yesterday. I had changed some defaults in firmware, and when I issued a load firmware defaults, it loaded different but wrong values, and only when I issued M502 AGAIN it loaded the ones configured in firmware.
Raazeeranybody got any idea what that might be all about?
gthxeeprom is M503 prints current settings, M501 loads settings from eeprom, M500 saves current settings to eeprom and is also
karradRaazeer: sounds like your EEPROM didn't get cleared.
nullifierso yeah you had the wrong trailing digit there sir
nullifier(or madam) I make entirely too many assumptions
Raazeerkarrad, that's what I thought, but the thing is: when I boot it up, the delta_height value resets to the one in eeprom, 299.0, then when I do M502, it goes to 304.0 which I never configured anywhere, and then when I do M502 again, it goes to 300.5 which is the number in my firmware sources.
nullifier502 isn't listed
nullifierperhaps try 501 instead
Raazeernullifier, isn't listed where?
nullifierHere I'll make the bot pop it again for you
gthxeeprom is M503 prints current settings, M501 loads settings from eeprom, M500 saves current settings to eeprom and is also
theresajayne:( my printer was printing fine last night then suddenly it started clicking - nothing was feeding what could cause that?
nullifiersomething is stuck
theresajaynei did notice that the hotend was slightly loose
theresajaynebut it keeps vibrating loose
theresajayneas does the heater/thermo
nullifierwhy is it vibrating
Raazeernullifier, gthx, according to reprap wiki, M502 is "revert to default values"
nullifierthey generally move pretty smoothly
theresajaynemaybe i should use rectalinear rather than hex
theresajaynethe infill is crazy to print
Raazeerand according to marlin website, that's what you have to do to load values you changed in the firmware.
nullifier501 loads
nullifiernot 502
theresajaynewhat about M665 and M666 do they store in firmware or reset on restart
Raazeernullifier, 501 loads from eeprom, 502 from the firmware defaults.
nullifierand that # changes because the machine is looking at the endstop
nullifierwhich isn't usually very precise
Raazeernullifier, at least that's my understanding. also the printer seems to understand M502 fine, echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
nullifierWhy are you loading the default settings rather than what you are configuring?
theresajayneyeah 501 loads from eeprom, 502 from firmware
nullifierOh, I see. You configured the firmware. I'm guessing what you changed didn't compile then.
Raazeernullifier, because I change the settings in the firmware files, then reupload. Is there a better way of doing that?
Raazeernullifier, because I can't see how there can be when I'm changing fundamental values like delta dimensions in the firmware.
theresajaynei think the eeprom stuff is the adjustable stuff like the M665 and M666 settings
nullifierWell, when 1+1 !=2...
theresajayneso endstop adj
Raazeertheresajayne, that was also my understanding, but it also stores values like maximum z height etc.
theresajayneonce your settings are right you need to M500 to save them
theresajayne500 is save settings 501 load settings 502 load defaults
Raazeertheresajayne, nullifier, and since I'm fiddling with delta_smooth_rod_offset right now to get the build plane right, I can't see how I can configure those values in eeprom.
theresajayneso if you send M502, M500 that will fix it to match the firmware
nullifierYou cannot do that in eeprom, correct. You just need to make sure what you're compiling is being flashed
Raazeertheresajayne, that's what I expected it to do, but lo and behold, it loaded a delta_height value I don't recall ever configuring anywhere.
theresajayneok M503 shows all settings
nullifieriirc that's a calculated from homing value
nullifierwhich is why it changes
theresajayne665 is the delta stuff
Raazeertheresajayne, didn't even know that one yet, thanks.
nullifierthe delta stuff makes my brain swivel diagonally
theresajaynewell i used the escher wizard and it gives you the delta calibration stuff
Raazeernullifier, you don't say. that gamma tower is going to be the death of me.
nullifierI tried to build my own once
nullifieryeah it didn't go well
nullifiersurprisingly hard to get an equilateral triangle
thewsuse a tape measure
Raazeernullifier, waaay behind you. I'm still trying to get my kit to work reliably. I've replaced the crappy plastic bed holders with proper aluminum bed clamps now.
thewsmakes it easier
Raazeerthews, do you have one that is marked off in tenths of milimeters?
nullifierlol exactly
thewsRaazeer: no, but that won't cause huge issues
Raazeerthews, i've looked in all the hardware stores, the slops just don't stock them.
nullifieryeah... yeah it will
thewsno it wont
thewsmy shit repeats to 0.001mm and I didn't go to tenths of mms when building the triangles
nullifiermaybe not tenths but a few mm would make shit go caddywompus
thewsthat's quite a big difference
nullifierbecause the math depends on it being pretty even
TheHexaCubeSpeedEvil: that's how I'd do it
thews0.1mm to 4mm isn't the same
Raazeerthews, I'm not an expert on the matter, but I've seen experts claim that even a .2 mm deviation in triangle dimensions will throw your dimensions off from the model something bad.
thewsyou guys are crazy
SpeedEvilTheHexaCube: that's going to be really annoying to solder
theresajaynecalibration wizard 18:43 <theresajayne>
TheHexaCubeSpeedEvil: well I do have a hot air station, that should work well
Raazeerthews, sure we are, if we weren't, we wouldn't be in 3d printing, let alone have deltas.
thewsRaazeer: ^
thewsone of my deltas
SpeedEvilTheHexaCube: widen out the holes on the cutout to almost the diameter of the pad on the camera board.
SpeedEviland plate them
nullifierhonestly I'm no expert. I tried it with extrusion I was sure was all cut to the same length and I could not for the life of me get it to come out to 120 for each corner
theresajaynei have a V3 and a delta, the problems with my delta i am thinking gp back to the V3
SpeedEvilthat way you can easily solder with a conventional iron and not have any issues with trying to clamp or overheating the camera
TheHexaCubeSpeedEvil: "the cutout" ?
thewsRaazeer: here's the OG
nullifierthere is probably some fancy way to 'square' it for lack of a better term, that I'm not aware of
thewsRaazeer: big one has been running strong since 2014
SpeedEvilTheHexaCube: the bit cut out
RaazeerI swear there's something wrong with the stepper motor for my gamma tower. it just doesn't callibrate as well as the others.
thewsit doesn't look quite the same though
Raazeerthews, it's a thing of beauty all right.
thewsold gallery of prints
TheHexaCubeSpeedEvil: sorry, I still don't follow :/
TheHexaCubethinking about it
TheHexaCubeepoxy might work faster and better
Raazeerthews, I stand humbled in the presence of greatness.
SpeedEvilTheHexaCube: the holes on the bit the camera board is soldered to
Raazeerthews, you wouldn't happen to know marlin a bit?
theresajaynenice prints mine usually look like ass
abondisI've been wondering, is there any 3d printer that moves the bed on X/Y, and just move the head on Z ?
thewsRaazeer: never used marlin on delta
Raazeerthews, what do you use?
thewsRaazeer: smoothieware
theresajayneabondis, yes but the quality isnt nice - look at Polar
thewsabondis: there's a few
thewssome use XY tables
gthx => Polar 3D Printer in Operation => 2 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubeSpeedEvil: right, castellated holes, can't do that unfortunately
TheHexaCubecosts extra
abondisthanks theresajayne I'm going to look. Is the quality issue related to the fact that the bed move ?
Raazeerthews, ok, I paid about the price of a smoothieboard for my printer, I'm not yet ready to throw the same again at a smoothieboard.
TheHexaCubealso I can't modify the top PCB
thewsRaazeer: the duet boards are supposed to perform similarly
nullifiercan't you turn a teensy into a smoothie?
euz100TheHexaCube, did you buy the LEDs?
thewsbut cost even more afaik
TheHexaCubeeuz100: nope
Raazeerok ,wish me luck that I finally got the smooth_offset right.
euz100gave up on the idea?
Raazeerthews, aren't they priced similarly too?
TheHexaCubeeuz100: nope :D
euz100I remembered those LED plastic hoses
TheHexaCubegonna order them soon-ish
euz100that must be cut every 1 meter or so
TheHexaCuberight, LED strips
euz100but I don't know the schematic they use
Raazeermeh. another round of firmware tweaking.
TheHexaCubethey're awfully expensive in IR
TheHexaCubeeuz100: they use a mix of parallel and series use
euz100with resistors? or diodes?
TheHexaCubeiirc they use 3 LEDs and one resistor in series
TheHexaCubeand that 'assembly' is then used in parallel
TheHexaCubeso you can cut thems
thewsRaazeer: wonder if repetier would do better
thewsI've heard some people have used that for deltas with a better experience on 8 bit hardware
Raazeerthews, I'm planning to try that, but I want to get one nailed down first and then jump into the other.
thewsRaazeer: for a long time I did manual calibration, then when probes were added to firmware I tested it and have cheated since
thewsnot all switches are as repeatable as they should be
Raazeerthews, that's the next thing, right now my marlin won't adress any servos, and I need that for the bltouch.
thewsothers in here have replaced switches that didn't seem to repeat properly and things got better
thewsRaazeer: I just use a mouse switch for a probe
thewsput magnets in the effector
jeffdm_homeabondis: New Matter MOD-t
thewsprinted a probe that has magnets in it
thewsput a mouse switch on the end
jeffdm_homethe problem with moving the bed horizontally is that it doubles the machine envelope in that axis, minimum
Raazeerthews, a mag effector is also one of the things on my little litht.
jeffdm_homeso MOD-t has a footprint that's at least 4x the build area
thewsthat guy too
thewsthink the other guy left
thewsRaazeer: I don't use magnets for joints, just for the probe
jeffdm_homethat looks kind of nifty
thewsRaazeer: tested a few different magnet setups and didn't like it compared to spherical joints
Raazeerthews, what's wrong with magnet joints?
thewsRaazeer: in my opinion they don't have much holding them centered all of the way
thewsthe magnetic force isn't equal in all angles to center
Raazeerthews, the ones I've seen have a steel ball and the magnet in the rod. those should excert an equal force all over.
thewsmagnetic spheres hold better than circular magnets with a cup on top
thewsand the magnetic cup with steel spheres just has lots of wobble with minor torque
thewsRaazeer: tried those too
thewstiny cylinders in the arm
thewswith a steel ball
thewsthey have minor stiction and tiny bits of torque pull them from center
thewsseems like a lot of effort to avoid using something superior
Raazeerthews, maybe bigger cups would be the answer, to give them more lateral stability?
thewswhy bother?
thewsmy effector rarely ever comes off, no need to have it easy to swap
thews6 screws isn't a big deal anyways
abondisdoes anybody knows about an inductive sensor that works with 5v ?
Raazeerthews, I guess it all depends.
abondisall I can see is LJ12A3-4-Z/BX or LJ18A3-8-Z/BX but they all start at 6v
Raazeerabondis, if I'm not mistaken, thomas schalander revied one on youtube a while back.
abondisso I guess I can't directly plug it as input without a voltage divider, can I ?
abondisRaazeer: I'll check that thanks
TheHexaCube2,91€ for 100 LEDs
Raazeerabondis, the name is sanladerer
thewseffector I'm using now with bigger ball joints and 3d printed spacers
euz100TheHexaCube, the price of components is pretty sick
Raazeerthews, looks solid enough. I've got a metal one, with the hotend mounted inside it.
thewsallows for a high angle of misalignment
TheHexaCubeeuz100: honestly, I think that's pretty expensive
euz1003 cents per diode with free shipping?
TheHexaCubeTHAT is cheap :P
euz100but not infrared
TheHexaCube or this
alteregoComing along nicely, just have to finish wiring her up:
fx9alterego, neat a Dbot
thews1 btc to eur
DumDuckBot(thews) 1.0 BTC is 5510.00 EUR
thews5510 eur to usd
DumDuckBot(thews) 5510.0 EUR is 6410.00 USD
Raazeerholy shit, it prints!!!! for the first time in weeks, I've got a printer that actually prints halfway reliably.
RaazeerI think I deserve a little Schnaps for that. BRB.
buZzthews: moon \o
buZzi went up 6 monthly salaries just over last weekend :P
buZzjust a couple more and i already hit all my targets for 2018
buZz(meaning i wont need a job in 2019)
jeffdm_workgoing on walkabout?
ctagRaazeer: congrat!
buZzjeffdm_work: a what?
fx9Raazeer, congrats, me on the other hand is dealing with inconsistant extrustion, tell pronterface to extrude 100mm and it gives me 82mm everytime
buZzdno what that refers to :
jeffdm_worka journey to go find yourself
fx9maybe i need to swap this printed bowden extruder with the metal one
jeffdm_workor just a long vacation where you go to random places
jammiVanessaE: apparently it's a new(?) option in the preferences and it's off by default; enabling it seems to fix the placement/centering thing
Raazeerok, I'll call it quits for today, haven't watched the new episode of discovery yet.
Raazeerone success a day is all I can handle until I get used to it.
Raazeerfx9, have you checked if the mm per revolution is configured correctly in your firmware? You'd probably have to adjust that.
Raazeerok, folks, bye for now. see you all later or tomorrow.
NebukadnezaS3D keeps crashing in my poor lokbuild :(
Nebukadneza <- this should print 2 whole millimeters over the surface, right?!
fx9i might need to sand down the edges on this bearing, its slipping
TheHexaCubewhy do LEDs have these "wide" parts on their leads? about:blank
buZzTheHexaCube: to knows which is the anode?
TheHexaCubewell but it seems like they have it on both leads?
TheHexaCubenot the flat spot on the housing
crunchfuck this place
crunchfucking 37f
crunchwhat the fuck
jeffdm_workprobably relates to what side relates to the emmitter
TheHexaCube these wide thingies
jeffdm_workcathode holds the substrate
jstevewhitecrunch: did you not even google the weather before you moved there?
crunchit was fine when i moved
crunchthen shit got wierd as fuck this past week
jammiTheHexaCube: do you mean the ones on the legs?
TheHexaCubejammi: yeah
jammiTheHexaCube: afaik it's for mounting
jammianvil and post also arent *always* reliable for cathode/anode identification
TheHexaCubehuh, for mounting? that's kinda weird :(
TheHexaCubeI'd like to have the base of the actual body against the PCB
TheHexaCubenot the legs
jammiTheHexaCube: ever seen those plastic thingies between led and pcb?
jammialso, 90° angles
jammialso, panel mount stuff
TheHexaCubeuhhh, between led and PCB?
TheHexaCubeI don't think so, no
jammianyhow, the function is mechanical and mounting
jammiled spacer is the name of them
jammiand for panel mounts
jammialso these fancier panel mounts
TheHexaCubejammi: ohhh I see
TheHexaCubeI wonder if i can just make the holes larger so I can have the LED sit on the PCB
jammiTheHexaCube: they're also an indication point of the closest point they should be bent at. bend any closer to that marking (typically 3mm) and the epoxy-molded part isn't guaranteed to hold the torque
bill2or3those bumps on the leads are probably to ensure that there is some air underneath the led, for cooling.
bill2or3that said, in the past I've filed them off with a nailfile, to get leds to sit flush.
jammithose spacers and holders used to be a standard thing for led mounting
jammikinda fallen out of fashion or something at later things, but most 80s electronics with LEDs have them
bill2or3now it's all SMD and light pipes.
jammibill2or3: btw, I don't buy the cooling thing, since the leads will conduct heat and if they're mounted on a pcb at a closer distance, it's just better for heatsinking (as far as that even matters, since those old style leds were very low power devices)
TheHexaCubebaaasically this is what I want -
jammifor the camera light?
jammias someone else mentioned, I'd also suggest going with fewer because you can have too much light for a cmos sensor
jammiand they're very sensitive to ir
jammitoo much as in overexposure
jeffdm_workWhat's a good 6-layer circuit board shop for a single-digit quantity?
bill2or3I think you're probably correct.
bill2or3Hexa: I agree with jammi, you're going to get a washed out & overexposed image.
jammihowever, there's a minimum distance from solder joint to epoxy as well, and that indicator point coincides with that as well
jammithe marking on the lead
bill2or3jammi: so it's to keep the heat of soldering from melting the led's casing?
bill2or3that makes sense.
jammiyes, but also bending distance marker and to keep those housings snugly fit
jammiit's pretty clear by reading a full led datasheet
natewalckI have a print defect I'm trying to figure out the fix for
natewalckI have a model with a triangular bit, but it comes out more circular than triangular
bill2or3is it "more fans!"
jammiand many manufacturers probably don't even know what it's for, just cargocult copying some other designs
jammiwhich is kinda usual nowadays; copying features the one copying doesn't understand, but includes it just in case
bill2or3natewalck: is it a tiny part, small enough that the layers are not cooling fast enough?
theresajaynehelp why is my filament not feeding
LoHtheresajayne: complex question there.
natewalck@bill2or3 I have a picture, moment :)
jstevewhitelol @ cargo cult, jammi
jstevewhitehilarious and true
theresajaynewell i have pulled the folament out
natewalckHere is the model
theresajayneit comes out ok seems to go in ok but just isnt flowing
gthxclog is see unclog and or,B1JP9fm and is also
LoHtheresajayne: ^
natewalckAnd here is the actual print:
natewalck@bill2or3 It is printed vertically, so its a long column that is triangular
natewalckalmost like a triangular pillar
TheHexaCubejammi: well they're only 20mA each... and I also can drive them at less than that in order to increase life-span
TheHexaCubeeg. just at 5mA or 10mA
natewalckso the triangle is X/Y, and the height is on the Z axis
natewalckits ~ 3-5mm I believe
jammiTheHexaCube: if you drive them with pwm, you either need to add a cap to average it out or you'll have flicker on your camera
jammior rolling shutter artifacts
bill2or3natewalck: how long does it take per-layer?
natewalckI'm printing ~ 25mm/s
natewalckand the layers take at least 20 seconds I think
natewalckparts cooling fan
natewalckhexagon head (Its a lulzbot v2.1 print head)
theresajayneits supposed to be a 0.4 nozzle but seems more like a 0.1
bill2or3natewalck: got pics?
LoHtheresajayne: I gave you a set of links
jammiTheHexaCube: so basically the best option is to just not be wasteful in the amount of leds, since the correct amount of them driven with a constant current is ideal and optimal
natewalckDid they not link?
LoHtheresajayne: read those first; then provide pictures if you are still having issues
TheHexaCubejammi: alright okay, I can always use fewer LEDs of course
TheHexaCubebut the base idea is the same
TheHexaCubeI'd *like* them to sit flush on the pcb
natewalck@bill2or3 First image is the model, second image is the print:
natewalckI have them orientated the same way and of a similar scale
jammiTheHexaCube: you could just mount them on standard 2.54mm pitch wire headers; no pcb required
natewalckThe triangular part slides into a slot of a similar shape, but because of the deformation, it doesn't lock into the slot well
jammidupont-style female and such
TheHexaCubePCB is used for some other thigns too
TheHexaCubemounting the camera
bill2or3natewalck: and the "square" at the tip is about 3mm across?
natewalckI believe so. Let me fire up the STL and measure
bill2or3that's close enough.
bill2or3something that small, youre going to have to print slow, and and with lots of fan.
theresajaynei am hating this, just spent 3 hours removing the hotend and putting it back together and it wasnt jammed then now its not working
natewalckMy printer is pretty rigid
LoHtheresajayne: so what kind of hotend
theresajayneso i have to wait for it to cool down and completely strip it again
LoHtheresajayne: hence the request for pictures
natewalckI assume slow because of the X/Y changes regardless of stiffness?
theresajaynei have no idea
theresajayneits an anycubic kossel
natewalckI wonder if a smaller nozzle would help
natewalckits a 0.5mm
LoHah, so it's probably a POS fake3d
jammiwhat kind of an hotend takes over an hour to remove or put back?
natewalckI've not printer a whole lot of stuff with small mechanical features
theresajaynebut to take the hotend out i need to remove the heater - the grub screw is stripped
bill2or3natewalck: if you can print multiple copies at once, that will make the per-layer time longer, and let it cool more.
theresajayneand then remove the duct
theresajaynethen unscrew
natewalckYea, I was printing 16 at a time
natewalckto make the layer time even longer
natewalckwhat about extruding temp?
natewalckThe print head has great fans on it (2 part cooling fans)
bill2or3anything you can do to reduce heat in the area, like printing on blue-tape, instead of heated bed.
theresajayneit was printing fine then suddenly stopped and started clicking on the extruder motor
Nebukadnezacorecode: pingagain
LoHtheresajayne: the reasons for a jam are legion, from heat creep (common with fake3ds and insufficient or improper cooling) to friction to the hotend just not heating up to where it says it is
natewalck@bill2or3 Ah, I am indeed printing to a heated bed
natewalckon PEI
natewalckso it would be better to not print on a heated bead at all?
natewalckAlso, my z offset is a little too low, which makes the first layer super thin :(
bill2or3natewalck: try putting down some blue tape, scrubbed with alcohol. bed at 40c for the first layer, then bed off after that.
natewalckover top of the PEI?
sHR00m_natewalck, nozzle too close on pei can get ugly
sHR00m_like too good adhesion
natewalck@sHR00m_ Indeed
bill2or3natewalck: yeah, over the pei is fine.
natewalckI ruined it
natewalckso I have a plain glass bed atm
natewalckjust need to apply my replacement PE I
natewalck@bill2or3 I'll give that a go
natewalckif the first layer or two are not solid, I assume that deforms subsequent layers?
jammiglass + acrylate hairspray has worked fine here
sHR00m_PLA, PETG shouldnt need heat
natewalckIs it worth using PVA glue on top of PEI?
jammion abs, petg as well as pla
sHR00m_ABS would need some heat
sHR00m_like 60
bill2or3printing stuff in pla that has tiny features like that, you're really fighting latent heat, trying to get it to cool enough before the next layer.
jammiI typically print ABS at 95°C
natewalckI see
natewalcklulzbot suggests heat for PLA
jammithe colder the bed, the more warping you get
bill2or3natewalck: thermal insulation on your hotend heater is a good idea too. (not just for pla, but a good idea in general)
natewalckAround the hexgonal head itself?
jammiand once your print is tall enough, the bed doesn't help that much anymore
bill2or3natewalck: something with a small contact area like that, you shouldn't have warping problems.
jammiunless you also have an enclosure
thewsbuZz: I sold at 4350
thewsbuZz: waiting on another reasonable dip
bill2or3natewalck: I don't know what hotend you have, but (in general), if you can keep the hotend heat where it's needed, that's a good thing.
buZzthews: i'm never selling for fiat
natewalck@bill2or3 I have this:
buZzthews: also, i hope you're off by 1000 ;)
natewalckOK, so I can try blue tape on top of glass bed, 40C for first layer and then off
thewsbuZz: I just trade to increase fiat
thewsI don't really care what BTC price is as long as I can buy it lower and sell it higher
bill2or3natewalck: yeah, that's what I'd recommend.
buZzah, i just trade to increase btc ;)
natewalckThe room itself is a fairly consistent warm
natewalck~ 70-80 F
natewalckI mine crypto in the same room ;)
JK-47dont use taz's extruders or hotends. :P Go with a titan/e3d. (but not the aero)
natewalck@JK-47 why is that?
JK-47#1 their stuff is a giant pile of shit. #2 its like 400gm heavier than if you use 3rd party and a lightweight carriage design.
natewalckHow is it bad?
natewalckThey seem to get pretty solid prints ;)
JK-47Sucks at high speed
JK-47Lots of slop
RoBo_VI'm setting perimeter for extrusion width cal;ibration, but outtput g code showing up 2 perimeters on model.
RoBo_Vperimeter 1**
JK-47Switch to 1.75mm, print faster with better accuracy.
JK-47you see how monsterously large and heavy the dually carriages are?
JK-47watch the X bars flex with them.
natewalckWould you say a Prusa i3 MK3 is better than a taz 6?
natewalckaccuracy wise?
natewalckMy printer uses a 3x1 v-slot for the X carriage ;)
natewalcknone of their rod nonsense
JK-47probably. certainly for cost, since you can use the extra for upgrades
natewalckIts designed to handle a spindle even
jstevewhiteboth bedflingers
JK-47my printer formerly known as a taz before I rebuilt it to remove all the suckage:
natewalckAlso, why 1.75mm vs 2.85mm?
natewalckVery nice
JK-47More filament options. Easier to melt for higher speed prints.
natewalckMine is a TazStiff, 100% custom from parts
natewalckIts super solid.
durrfwait is it stiff or solid
natewalckboth ;)
natewalckbuilt like a tank
theresajayneshould the nozzle unbolt from the block? and if so is it normal or reversed thread
thewsheavy carriage
theresajaynethats my nozzle, looks clear
abondisVanessaE: you mentionned that NPN NO doesn't need a voltage divider, could you tell me why please ?
JK-47is that a wooden block?
theresajayneits supposed to be a 0.4 nozzle but looks smaller
natewalck@thews: true. Is this bad for smaller parts?
thewsbad for acceleration
natewalckIt prints very quickly for larger structural parts
natewalckAnd mechanical
natewalckYea makes sense. More mass to move
thewsif it works it works
thewsI don't need fast printers really, but I've tried to make them all able to have high acceleration
natewalckI was printing around 125mm/s without issue
natewalckFor larger stuff
thewsacceleration usually matters more than top speed
thewslots more time spent ramping up to speed
natewalckAh I see
natewalckIt seems like if you want to print large structural stuff
natewalckVs small mechanical stuff
natewalckYou might want different printers
thewsI've printed lots of big strong things but keep the carriage light
natewalckMoarstruder kicks out big stuff quickly
thewsthink my extruder is like 500 oz-in
TheHexaCube15 LEDs
TheHexaCubewhich is very convenient because that way I get to almost 24V if all are run in series
jammiTheHexaCube: where's the 15th?
jammi7 + 7 = 14
TheHexaCube14, LOL
thewsonly problem I have with large stuff is keeping it from warping
TheHexaCubeACTION can't count
thewsstuff like that is a pain
thewsthink it was 16"
RoBo_VFor extrusion width calibration, single perimeter has to be printed right
RoBo_VI'm setting 1, but two coming up in go code preview.
TheHexaCube"1.45-1.65V" forward voltage
TheHexaCubeso I have between 3.7V and 0.9V left
bill2or3Hexa: what camera will you be using?
TheHexaCubei ordered this one:
VanessaEabondis: because PNP sensors route whatever voltage you're feeding their power wire, to their signal output wire, when "closed" (actuated), and 0v when "open", so if you have to power it with 12v, you need to divide the signal wire down so that it shows 5v (or less) for the "closed" state. NPN sensors tie their signal wire to ground when "closed" and leave the line floating (no signal) when "open". Since your controller board most likely has a "pull
VanessaEup" resistor on the end stop signal, that becomes ground for the "closed" state and 3.3v or whatever for the "open" state.
VanessaE(you'll notice that also means the output from the one is inverted compared to the other. compensate for that in firmware)
bill2or3TheHexaCube: you do know that you can get the Pi Noir camera with IR illuminators included.
TheHexaCubebut I doubt they're very powerful
TheHexaCubealso this way I can nicely mount the camera
TheHexaCubeaaaand i made it myself too! :P
bill2or3you're pretty full-speed-ahead at solving "problems" that you don't have.
TheHexaCubewell... when am I *NOT* doing that :P
TheHexaCubeI like having a custom solution
bill2or3custom is better when it's better, it's not better because it's custom.
TheHexaCubewell I'd say that having a proper way to mount it already makes it better =)
bill2or3when it's cutom and worse, it's worse.
jammithews: this was a pain, and still is; failed to print properly
jeffdm_workwas that a WanHao?
jammiTheHexaCube: I think you should still consider that what you see < what the camera sees, especially in IR
jammijeffdm_work: yes, was
bill2or3Pi camera ir illuminator, $3.50.
jeffdm_workjammi: how many mods did you make to it
jammijeffdm_work: I've lost count
bill2or3jammi:maybe he just likes pictures of white.
buZzbill2or3: massive overpriced leds?
JK-47quality off the PI cams is pretty bad, even though they have nice sony sensors. It's my backup cams to my nests if power goes out, but refresh is way too slow for crisp images. .
buZzoh leds + driver , lol
bill2or3buZz: still way less than he'll end up spending, especially if you consider his time.
buZzstill pretty expensive for just a 'IR lightsource'
jammijeffdm_work: easier to count what's still original: X axis mounts to Z axis, some of the frame parts
JK-47worried about $3.50?
buZzJK-47: i assume there's more than 1 printer made from all this level of effort
jeffdm_workwell I don't do WanHao but I knew the diagonal brace, fan duct, bed plate was clearly different
TheHexaCubebuZz: that's the plan, someday
TheHexaCubemaking more than one
bill2or3I'm generally not too worried about saving money on something that costs $3.50, if I only need one of them.
jammithe 8mm rods are all original, none of the bearings are. all motors are original, the heated bed is original
jeffdm_workat least bed looked rotated and re-terminated
buZzyeah, so saving 3.5 usd on a lamp would mean maybe 50000 usd less investment over the entire project
jammiall except the extruder motor
buZz(also , its 5.5 usd incl shipping)
jeffdm_workah, pancake motor
TheHexaCubealso again, we're talking about 10-20mA per LED... I don't think 14 of them will overexpose the image
bill2or3how much would it save if you only need one?
buZzabout 90%
jeffdm_workjammi: are those third party silicone pads for glass mounting?
TheHexaCubenow I don't know how the rpi camera works but with the 'normal' cameras I've used, TOO much light was never an issue
bill2or3how much of your time does ($3.50*0.9) buy?
bill2or3ACTION shrugs
buZzpractically all of it, now that i quit my job :P
bill2or3fair enough.
jammijeffdm_work: sure. there was no glass originally
natewalckIs there a good guide for dialing in every part of a machine?
natewalckI should probably re-calibrate the entire thing
jeffdm_workis the bed heater really original? I thought WanHao used their own rhino branding on those
natewalck@thews what does your machine look like to have 16" print width?
jammijeffdm_work: the rhino was on what's the back side of the bed now
jammihere's a fuller picture of it:
JK-47If I was designing a ground up printer for LED night light cam, I would use,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_10344_5620015_10345_10547_10342_10546_10343_10340_10341_10548_10545_10541_10307_5640015_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10538_5370015_10537_105
JK-47flat mount, and make a board for it to have etched in mass
thewsnatewalck: early form
jeffdm_workwow that cross brace
jeffdm_workupper bar
jeffdm_workwhat happened
gthx1% is No one thing will improve your prints by %100, but there's 100 things that will improve them by %1 each.
jammijeffdm_work: the original didn't have enough clearance for the extruder and wasn't very stiff either
jeffdm_workwhat's your current extruder? The Titan clone we talked about?
thewsnatewalck: printing that vending machine part
gthx => Vend body => 2 IRC mentions
jammititan clone and all custom mount + duct and such
jeffdm_workhow is the titan working out? is it an improvement?
jammiit is now, but it's a shitty extruder for pla
jammisome 90mm/s x/y movement max or it doesn't keep up and jams
jammiat 60mm/s it still prints pla fine
jammipetg and abs otoh works fine at 120mm/s or so
bill2or3anyone have experience/opinions on a good extruder for PETG? My current hotend has ptfe, I don't like taking it past 240c
jammiwell, it's a long filament path to the nozzle, all metal on the inside and pla just wants to jam in it
JK-47you dont need to go that high for petg
bill2or3JK-47: no?
JK-47none ive used
thewsbill2or3: petg is fine at 240c
bill2or3JK-47: I'd read 245C was ideal.
thewsit's not
bill2or3ok then, 240C.
jammialso, pla probably doesn't heat up fast enough
thewsit starts bubbling on me higher
jeffdm_work245 is still fine for PTFE though
jeffdm_workbill2or3: IMO, the state of the art is a Bondtech BMG + E3D v6
bill2or3I haven't done much petg, but it's growing on me.
jeffdm_workpancake motor if your machine is weight sensitive
lowridahmmm pancakes
bill2or3I have an old-school makergear hotend, still going strong.
jeffdm_workwith the cement blob?
bill2or3they're pretty great, until you touch the heater and it disintegrates.
bill2or3yeah, with the ceramic blob.
jeffdm_workyeah it's some kind of fire cement or ceramic or cross between the two
jeffdm_workI never ran mine
jeffdm_worknever finished building it for that matter
thewsbill2or3: only problem with petg I have is it sticking to the hotend, and that's remedied by wiping it clean and using a drop of ptfe lube on it and then wiping that off
jeffdm_workI bought it on someone's recommendation then looked at it
bill2or3it's all I've ever used, prior to that I made my own hotends out of bolts and stuff. (like you did, back then...)
bill2or3thews: I have the same problem, it's super goopy.
jeffdm_workI think I bought mine ~Feb 2013
bill2or3I've never taken one apart and had it be anything but spotless inside.
jeffdm_workI ended up using the fire ceramic to fix thermistors on different hot ends
jeffdm_workfix as in set in place
jeffdm_workI've since lost it but I think it still sits somewhere ready to be used
bill2or3I researched that cement stuff once, it was like $120/qt, and that was the smallest container you could get.
RoBo_VI'm setting perimeter 1, but two coming up in g code preview. WHat I am missing ?
jeffdm_workI bought a 1 pint tub of refractory fire cement from the hardware store for $5. I don't claim it's the same stuff but it did what I wanted it to do.
bill2or3RoBo_V: are you setting "perimiters: 1" or is it actually "minimum perimeters: 1" ?
bill2or3jeffdm_work: I've used that too, mixed in some fiberglass bits, it seemed to hold up fine.
RoBo_Vbill2or3: Yes it does say (minimum) in brackets if I make it 0 - then all vertical walls gone.
jeffdm_workthe fiberglass idea sounds good
jammithews: my main petg issue is that it's so strong. if there's some goop on the nozzle and it's deposited onto the print as some blob, and the hotend collides with it at a later point, there'll be steps skipped and the print is misaligned from that point onwards
bill2or3RoBo_V: it's using two perimeters because one doesn't make the wall thick enough. You need to make one perimeter thick enough, you can do that by playing with layer heights, or by overriding the extrusion widths.
thewsjammi: use stronger steppers / drivers
RoBo_Vbill2or3: i see, ok thanks
jammithews: closed loop control would really be the solution. if it collides, it'd just move the nozzle towards the target, belting the blobs in its way
thewsjammi: closed loop is nice, but I really don't ever have skipped steps
thewsjammi: to the point of breaking things if I'm not careful
jammiI didn't use to have them either, at least not often enough to matter
jammiI did try to remedy it by making the Y-axis motor whinier (raising the vref), but it had no real effect on it
jammisince that's the direction it'll encounter lost steps in, if it's about to lose them
jammiplus, it'd probably just knock the print off the bed if it's strong enough
jammiwhich otoh is another thing that doesn't happen easily with petg
bill2or3Has anyone ever experimented with a parts cooling fan that actually had temp-sensors and adjusted airflow depending on actual parts temps?
bill2or3it'd be nice not to have to dork with the fan settings so much.
thewsbill2or3: would need an IR thermometer or something
bill2or3thews: yeah, something like that.
thewsbill2or3: I just ramp speed up with it left off until a few layers
thewsworks well enough
jammimore useful would be a coolend fan controller that measures heat creep and adjusts the fan accordingly
bill2or3jammi: that.
jammialso less wasteful than running fan at 100% and combating that at the hotend-end long as that 100% isn't needed
thewsI just use a weak 25mm fan
thewsis good enough for the hotend
jammithews: not really. 30mm wasn't enough, 40mm wasn't enough but 5015 radial is enough for a v6 clone with SS parts inside
jammiotherwise heat would creep, and filament would jam at some point in longer prints
DJHenjinalright, time to put my printer back together
jammihowever, it's overkill for short prints
jammiand probably wouldn't *quite* need to be running at full speed on the longer ones either
jeffdm_workoh yeah your heat break wasn't helping
TheHexaCubewow and I thought *I* was overbuilding things
natewalck@thews Ah, a delta
jammiTheHexaCube: that thing probably ended by this failing:
jammihaven't seen updates since
TheHexaCubeyeah but buying 4 ovens just to salvage the heating elements, man that's a waste of money
thewshuge waste
jammiTheHexaCube: definitely. he's clearly not heard of aliexpress
thewsput some nichrome coils on some hooks and call it a day
jammialso, why have heat all around the thing when all it really needs is heated air inside the pressurized thing
thewseven temps isn't a bad thing
TheHexaCubewell you gotta heat it before blowing in the air
natewalck@thews is the design for your delta anywhere?
jammiyeah, but heating the material is supposedly the point of it
natewalckI love that it uses v-slot
gthxbigdelta is A large delta printer! Build Photos: and Github Repository: Assembly videos: More links and information is on the github page, see for more info. You can also try and check ?dumle29
gthx-bigd-collection for the collection of parts used by dumle29
natewalckmakes it *very* sturdy
natewalckthe heavy metal delta
natewalckbut still has a lightweight carriage
gthxheavymetal is
DJHenjinprinter is put back together YAY
thewsgthx: heavymetal is also
gthxthews: Okay.
durrfi need to do that
natewalckHow are Deltas vs cartesians
thewsdeltas have to be built better
natewalckI've only ever done a Cartesian
DJHenjindoing my cal print now
thewsotherwise if you build them well they keep printing well
natewalckI love the metal plate at the top too
thewsyeah that thing is a tank
thewssomeone built it at full height 1.5M
thewsbut he's not in here atm it looks like
IotaBoo! 👻
natewalckso Delta uses 3 motors? all 3 do Z
natewalckand manipulating Z on different corners gives you X/Y movement
durrf4th for extruder
durrfit uses math and magic
durrfa sprinkle of both
natewalckah right
durrfno matter where the arms are the effector (should be) always level to the printbed
thewsparallel robot
RoBo_VWhat if I calibrated extrusiom multiplier to 0.80, now perimeters looks seprated and print doesnt seemsh strong.
bill2or3RoBo_V: are you using slic3r?
bill2or3RoBo_V: if you set the extrusion multiplier, that's telling it "only extrude %80 of the plastic you need"
RoBo_VJust printed few hollow calibration cubes
bill2or3assuming the other settings are correct.
bill2or3what're you trying to do, exactly? force a specific wall width?
RoBo_Vbill2or3: well just trying to calibrate extrusion multipleier: but if I calibrate it too exact measurement then it comes to be 0.76 - but after there is seperation in cubes perimeter and it feels weak. So now do I increase the extrusion multiplier or adjust other setting ?
bill2or3RoBo_V: the extrusion multipler is a kludge used by horrible people, if everthing else is calibrated properly the extrusion multiplier will be "1"
TheHexaCubetadaaah :D
bill2or3either your filament diameter or your E-steps-per-mm is incorrect, I'd start with those.
RoBo_VYes at 1 print is fine, but I read as people trying to calibrate it - measuring perimeter width and stuff.
RoBo_Vbill2or3: E steps already calibrated.
bill2or3RoBo_V: are you doing the "print single-wall, measure width, compare with number from gcode comments" procedure?
bill2or3How close is your E-steps, and what length were your test extrusions?
RoBo_V10 & 50 mm
RoBo_Vvery close
RoBo_VI think 100mm too
thewswhen I calibrate it to be exact I always have to back it off like 2%
bill2or310mm isn't nearly enough, 50mm is borderline. I'd do 100mm, and get it within like .25mm
RoBo_VOk I try 100mm
bill2or3at a 50mm test, you have to be able to measure accurately to 0.5mm to get withing %1, that's pretty iffy using the tools(and eyes) I have.
bill2or3then measure your filament, but measure it in several spots, twice at each spot(offset by 90-deg) and then average all the numbers.
ValduareTheHexaCube: making your own ir led arrays for a pi cam?
bill2or3once you have those two things dialed in just right, try some single-wall test prints.
TheHexaCubeValduare: yah :D
ValduareI picked up some of the normal ones that come with the noir cam for 2 bucks
DJHenjinTheHexaCube, looks good, and looks like a sane number of LEDs lol
TheHexaCubeDJHenjin: 14 LEDs resulting in around 20-23V drop
thewsTheHexaCube: you built any of that printer yet?
TheHexaCubethews: I have most parts for the x-axis lying around
Valduarethews: he’s just playing in f360 he wont build it :P
Valduarefor about 20 or 30 years
TheHexaCubewaiting for two metal sheets right now, then I can build the x-axis prototype
TheHexaCubeelectric components arrive on thursday, then I can build the driver board =)
TheHexaCubeand if that board works, I can do some software development and present the proof of concept
TheHexaCubeValduare: shhhhh!
thewsonly reason I ask is it seems like you've showed pics for a long time
thewsI'd drive myself crazy to not have partial prototypes
TheHexaCubethews: the problem was that I started working just two months ago, before that i didn't really have the money for parts
TheHexaCubethews: the nice thing however is, I can spend ALOT of time with #reprap to think about flaws of my ideas :P
TheHexaCubeI did that with an FDM printer already, the assembly afterwards worked pretty much perfectly
thewsI rig things up to do partial prototypes quickly
thewsto test ideas
TheHexaCuberight, the problem is that "rigging it up" isn't that easy in this case
TheHexaCubeat least not that easy for me
thewslike a few years ago I thought I'd use 2020 and bought some of that and some 2040 and decided to do my own deflection tests
thewshang weight off the end, clamp to slab
thewsdoing that kind of thing teaches me a lot more than discussions
thewsno point in discussing when you see the results in front of your face
TheHexaCubefair enough
TheHexaCubebut up until now (and well, still) I couldn't afford to waste money on testing out several things
TheHexaCubeif I order things I'd like them to work out
thewsI don't mind wasting money in increments
TheHexaCubebut things have gotten a bit easier now that I work
thewsthen I can lie to myself on how much I spend
thewsit's the shipping that kills
gthx$200 is 3D printers only cost $200, at a time.
TheHexaCubefor my PCB prototype I paid 4.90$
TheHexaCubefor the express shipping i paid 20
thewsmcmaster is the worst
TheHexaCubebut at least it went Hongkong -> Germany in less than 3 days
RoBo_Vbill2or3: Yes, there is problem with 100mm. It keeps stopping momentarily.
thewsalso digikey and some others
thewsstupidly expensive shipping
RoBo_Vthus off by 30-40mm
TheHexaCubethews: I can order hardware from misumi, they ship for free thankfully
TheHexaCubebut they're $$$ part-wise
bill2or3RoBo_V: extruder stepper driver overheating and going into thermal shutdown?
LoHthews: more like normal shipping
RoBo_Vbill2or3: No, motor running smooth. No overheat.
LoHthe shipping isn't part of the prices
thewsLoH: there's other places I can buy the same stuff for cheaper though usually
thewsLoH: also I ship things
thewsand when I ship things it doesn't cost nearly as much
RoBo_Vbill2or3: I have my E steps set too 1829
imrclyI think the heat bed on this prusa mk2s is bad it keeps blowing the fuse, i have double checked the connections. any suggestions?
LoHimrcly: contact prusa support
bill2or3RoBo_V: is it stopping, or is it skipping steps?
karradalright, whats the argument of the day today?
bill2or3imrcly: have you measured it's resistance with a multimeter?
RoBo_Vbill2or3: I think skipping steps, filaments stops momentarily not motor.
imrclynot yet any idea what it should be?
bill2or3RoBo_V: like, the drive-teeth are slipping against the filament?
bill2or3imrcly: not offhand, I remember that my old 12v heater was like 2ohm.
RoBo_Vbill2or3: it is Classic Prusa i3 rework, I can just see the filaments going in.
thewsRoBo_V: take a video of it during the test zoomed in
bill2or3RoBo_V: but the motor never stops turning?
thewsif filament just stops you either have a jam or need to increase tension
RoBo_Vbill2or3: yes motor doesnt stop.
RoBo_VI try that thews
thewsyou should be able to increase tension until the motor skips
pwillardIf motor doesn't stop... its not skipping...
thewspwillard: those dots seem awful judgey
pwillardNaw... I talk with long drawn out pauses
bill2or3RoBo_V: did you do your test extrusion at roughly the same speed it feeds during a print? If you do it way faster it may skip during the test, even though it doesn't skip during a print.
pwillard(like Stevie from Malcom in the Middle)
RoBo_Vbill2or3: tnesion problem is here, I tight screw further now it extrudes more than 100mm.
bill2or3RoBo_V: good news, carry on.
RoBo_Vbill2or3: so it extruded 4.5mm more, let me adjust that in e steps.
RoBo_Vthews: thanks :)
natewalck@thews how hard is it to get a delta right vs Cartesian ?
natewalckYour prints are pretty great on that
natewalckAnd I’m a huge fan of mostly metal construction
natewalckI dislike printed brackets and the like
thewsnatewalck: depends on what kind of person you are
thewsif you're the attention to detail type, it's not that difficult
natewalckI'm pretty OCD
natewalckMy current cartesian is working well, but the print volume needs help (and reworking it seems less interesting than a new build)
thewsmostly if you have a chop saw with non ferrous blade, and know how to chop everything the same length, it's not too difficult
thewsand have a center punch for starting drill bits
RoBo_VIs that possible that 100m extruded right, but smaller lengths are off ?
bill2or3RoBo_V: unlikely.
bill2or3it's possible that 10mm extrudes properly, but longer lengths do not.
bill2or3the driver could be overheating, for one.
natewalck@thews I have a chop saw + diablo blade from my TazStiff build
thewsI used a diablo blade
thewsI stack the same extrusion I cut before and square up the ends and touch the blade down to see where the kerf ends
natewalckI assume if the towers are rock solid, it makes it easier
thewsdidn't have to do any grinding to get them more even or anything
natewalckHeavy Metal Delta looks like it has a 1/4" plate top and bottom to hold it all rigid?
natewalckThats part of why I liked TazStiff...It used a few build plates to stiffen the frame up nicely
natewalckplate holds X and Y together
thewsat first I was going to double it up
natewalckand more plates for the Z verticals
thewsbut when I put one on there I knew it didn't need more
thewsyou can double it up if you go with 1/8" or something
natewalckFor the meantime, is there a good resource for dialing in a printer for specific use cases?
natewalckfor instance, I can print something like this:
gthx => Gear Bearing by emmett => 3 IRC mentions
natewalckand it breaks free just fine
natewalckworks great
natewalckbut then something with smaller detail like the pictures I linked previously (
natewalckI had geometry issues
natewalckbut I'm fairly certain that had to do with print settings (speed, cooling, etc)
thewsnozzle diameter and jerk
natewalcktoo much jerk?
thewsor not enough accel
natewalckOh, I see.
thewssits in the corners too long
natewalckso tweaking accel apart from print speed could improve the results
natewalckas well as making sure it is adequately cooled
natewalckAlso, Cura vs there a favorite? I've been using Prusa Slic3r and it was great for the gears and other stuff of that nature, but it didn't do well with the tiles I linked on imgur
AmeisenIs there a gcode that does a 'full' querying of a printer's capabilities? Including what gcodes it supports?
bill2or3M503 will show you (some) settings.
natewalckI have acceleration set to 2000
natewalck`default_acceleration = 2000`
bill2or3natewalck: that's reasonable, what's jerk at?
RoBo_Vbill2or3: so yea e steps tuned, now I see filament is little off in 90 degre measurement.
bill2or3RoBo_V: that's why you want to take the 90-deg measurements, in case the filament is oval.
natewalck@bill2or3 is that in slic3r or my startup gcode?
natewalcklet me check both
Ameisenbill2or3 - guess I need to add one, then.
natewalck`M201 X2750 Y2750 Z25 E2000`
bill2or3natewalck: in your firmware, send M503 and it should be in there somewhere.
LoHnatewalck: slic3r won't set jerk (in Marlin terms)
natewalckin my config.g
LoHIt's usually M205
natewalckAh, I don't have 205 set
gthxjerk is the third derivative of position with time (aka change in acceleration) in mm/sec^3. Limits the "hammering" effect when the nozzle changes direction. See firmware config MAX_JERK and and is also the max instantaneous speed change allowed and is also jstevewhite
natewalckI'm using a Duet3D
bill2or3then it's probably at whatever teh default is.
natewalckfor context
bill2or3oh, I don't know the duet at all.
natewalckits M566
natewalck`M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120`
natewalckThose are the jerk values
LoHnatewalck: you'll have to reference the firmware to make sense of them
RoBo_Vbill2or3: Now how I should input filament dia ?
DJHenjinlooking like my print quality has increased due to fixing my printer yay!
jstevewhiteDJHenjin: I would hope so. Otherwise, I wouldn't call it "fixing" it.
DJHenjinI meant vs what it was before it broke again
DJHenjinI need to design a couple more parts for my printer to fix a couple issues I am having, but I am getting closer and closer to having my printer where I want it
natewalckAre there models I can print to tweak acceleration and jerk?
natewalckI'm struggling to figure out good diagnostic models
jeffdm_worktall squares
bill2or3RoBo_V: accurately.
natewalck(I've done boaty, but I'm not certain what to look for on it)
bill2or3RoBo_V: you took several measurements, yes? average them.
RoBo_Vbill2or3: oh okk
natewalck@jeffdm_work Tall squares? Does that accurately test for issues with circles and smaller detailed items?
arthur-_natewalck: cubes. look at corners and faces.
natewalcklike the 20mm cubes
jeffdm_workjerk and accel are stressed most on hard corners
jeffdm_workflowing curves easily hide problems
natewalckIs there a wiki or blog post that outlines all the things you'd want to do in order to validate your printer buikd?
arthur-_and the lines in the cube faces let you clearly see the "afterefect" of accel problems at corners
gthxtriffid is see calibration
gthxcalibration is [YouTube] and [calculator] and [wiki] http:// and [Triffid's guide] and [STL set] and [blog] and [STL] { also handy for axis identification }
natewalckperfect ;)
arthur-_thank triffid :)
jeffdm_workI just take a square, 20mm-30mm on a side but stretch it tall and use g code to adjust the jerk or accel every X number of loops until I like the results
kraegarnatewalck: if you have a delta, there's a few things to add mechanically.
natewalckI have a cartesian atm, I want to make sure it is solid before I build a Delta
codepython777does anyone have a pointer to a printable 3d button- preferably without springs?
kraegarnatewalck: better, don't build a delta, build a corexy ;)
jstevewhitekraegar: a corexy?
jstevewhiteWhat's that?
DJHenjinTwystNeko, you about?
gthxcorexy is best left described in pictures and is also __probably__ better than h-bot. There are now several successful CoreXY designs, and there is a list of them on the wiki page at
jstevewhiteany corexy?
gthxrailcore is and is also potentially a drug or a skater music scene and is also a CoreXY printer designed by jstevewhite and kraegar
natewalckIs the idea that bed is Z only
natewalckand head moves XY
natewalckOh interesting
natewalckthe belt route is quite different
kraegarbut since the bed only moves in Z, it's a lot more stable, and you can keep your Y carriage nice and light, so still print fast
kraegarI print 75mm/s - 150mm/s on it
thewscomes with kraegar support
natewalckIs yours a Railcore ?
kraegaryeah. jstevewhite & I collaborated to create it
natewalckVery cool.
natewalckUsing printed brackets doesn't impact how rigid it is?
kraegarlike it way more than my delta
kraegarit's very rigid. the rigidity is from the frame + side panels.
kraegarsample prints, all 75mm/s +
natewalckHow did that lion get printed!?
DJHenjinstill a bit of a wave in walls that are perpendicular to my x axis, but my new designed X axis will fix that
natewalck@kraegar That reminds me of an ultimaker
natewalckgreat print quality
RoBo_Vbill2or3: trying all, layer height and extrusion parameter but always getting 2 perimeters.
bill2or3RoBo_V: how thick is the wall you're trying to print?
kraegarnatewalck: I've been very happy with it.
bill2or3RoBo_V: or is this just a test part, so you can measure a single-wall?
RoBo_V0.3 layer height and 0.45mm extrusion width
natewalck@kraegar How do you figure out which print settings to use for a given object?
RoBo_Vyes using some test part, cut by z axis and using that as hollow cube.
natewalckOr do you just dial it in as best you can and use generic settings for all objects
bill2or3RoBo_V: get a 30 or 40mm cube, and print it in vase mode.
kraegarnatewalck: 90% of the time I use the same settings
kraegarthe exceptions are when I'm changing quality, or have a part with really small parts, big overhangs, etc
kraegaryou get used to that, though
natewalckYea, this one part was the first I had issues with
natewalckhas a tiny triangle
natewalckits a triangle looking straight down on it
natewalckbut really tall Z
natewalckused as interlocking grooves
natewalck@kraegar Where did you buy your v-slot from?
natewalckThat looks different than the stuff I've purchased from openbuilds
thewshis is actually 1515
thewsif I remember right
natewalckah, so not 2020
thewsyeah just t-slot
thewssmall stuff
thewsused linear rails instead of wheels
kraegarnatewalck: the extrusions? they're 1515 from misumi
natewalckah, I see. I've only used v-slot before
bill2or3misuimi 1515 is crazy cheap, afair.
natewalck@kraegar On the BOM, I'm missing the side panels
natewalckah, it says looking for supplier
TheHexaCubeBugs in 2k17 be like
kraegarnatewalck: sorting that as we speak
kraegarit's been killing me this week
kraegarand last week
NebukadnezaACTION uploaded an image: file1509480252163.jpg (454KB) <>
Nebukadnezanice weather today … ^_^
thewsa nice cool 76 here
thews$wa 76F to C
DumDuckBot(thews) Result: 24.44 °C (degrees Celsius) -
thews$wa 83F to C
thewsback to that tomorrow
DumDuckBot(thews) Result: 28.33 °C (degrees Celsius) -
Ameisennot sure what the weather is today
Ameisenfairly cool
Nebukadnezathat’s warm
Nebukadnezasend some over
thewsNebukadneza: you riding thermals with that setup?
Nebukadnezayeah …
DJHenjinabout 3C here right now, tonight should be about -10C
Nebukadnezatoday, started at ~40meters, got up to beyond 350meters
Nebukadnezanormally that late in autumn, with only ~10°C air temperature, you don’t get that nice lift
thewsI have a glider, but I've never tried that
thewsI suck at it in sims and don't want to lose money in the real world
Ameisenall these Cs are confusing
NebukadnezaWhich one?
Ameisenuse rankin
NebukadnezaIf any
DJHenjineasier way to put it, where I am, it is cold
Ameisenno, not kelvin. Rankine.
AmeisenIt's better because R > K
TheHexaCubehmm i wonder, would a company charge money for actual material used, or the material inside the boundary box
TheHexaCubefor laser cutting?
TheHexaCubeeg. do I have to pay money for the cutouts I don't need? :/
DJHenjinprobably bounding box
DJHenjinidk, would have to ask them
Nebukadnezathews: what are you flying?
thewsNebukadneza: I mostly just fly quadcopters now
XXCoderwhat is rankine set on?
Nebukadnezaah, sorry to hear :)
XXCoder$wa 0k to r
DumDuckBot(XXCoder) No results.
Nebukadnezathermals got me away from quads
XXCoder$wa 0k to rankine
DumDuckBot(XXCoder) No results.
TheHexaCube$wa 0K to °R
DumDuckBot(TheHexaCube) Result: 0 °R (degrees Rankine) -
XXCoderfine lol
TheHexaCuberankine == kelvin but with fahrenheit division
TheHexaCubelike temperature difference between 0F and 1F are the same as 0°R and 1°R
XXCodergreat lol
XXCoderfrankly I would like world to use k
thewsNebukadneza: this is my smaller brushless quad
gthx => PICT0067 => 1 IRC mentions
Nebukadnezahaha, can’t see the quad though :-)
Nooblet101is there a plugin (or setting I am too stupid to find) in cura to make a layer(s) solid?
Nebukadnezayou got pics of itself?
thewsit's a halo quad
thews80mm or something
TheHexaCubeyou had me excited for a sec
TheHexaCubethinkin a warthog from halo :(
XXCoderthats cool
XXCodersadly tacoma is lacking wide open spaces
Nebukadnezathews: i can only advice to transfer to thermalling -:)
NebukadnezaXXCoder: slopes…?
TheHexaCubewhat a lovely garden you have Nebukadneza
XXCoderwhat slopes?
thewsNebukadneza: I live in a very flat state and in the middle of the city
NebukadnezaXXCoder: for slopesoaring
thewsso it'd be a big investment to try it
Nebukadnezathews: well, flat state is not bad
Nebukadnezamiddle of the city is more of a problem
thewsyeah, and lots of wind
Nebukadneza… oh
thewslive in florida
thewsbetween the gulf and atlantic
XXCoderguy who designed famous radioactive symbol just died. 95 years old
Nebukadnezayou have small … dunes, dams, dykes, … ?
Nebukadneza(and lots of wind?)
Nooblet101also think tacoma narrows bridge, some wicked wind up there
Nebukadnezaor not-so-high cliffs?
XXCoderNebukadneza: yeah tacoma is pretty huge city surrounded by cities
XXCoderso I'd have to travel a bit to get to open spaces
thewsNebukadneza: no dunes
thewsit's very very flat here
thewsI'm 50 miles from the coast and at 82 feet elevation
Nebukadnezasorry to hear :(
gthx => Soaring Over Florida Everglades (Homestead - X51) in a Glider => 1 IRC mentions
thewspeople do thermal stuff here still though
Nebukadnezathat landscape looks wonderful for RC thermalling
gthx => jan 21 17 video2 - windy => 2 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubethews: is that harry potter music? :P
thewssome youtube free music
karradNooblet101: you looking for a specific layer, or the whole model?
thewsthe little micro brushless ones are fun if getting to a place with lots of space is a hassle
Nooblet101specific layer
XXCoder_BOOmega_: it looked like I jerked by BOO!, but really its just huge explosion of shit lifting me a little, creating illusion of jerk
Nooblet101I know sslic3r has the option I just dont want to have to rebuild a slic3r profile when cura is currently working just fine on this printer
Nebukadnezathews: yeah, i see how thats better than nothing
NebukadnezaDLGs maybe?
karradNooblet101: hmm, no luck. I think a plugin would be your best bet
Nebukadnezasmaller fields already yield fun
Nebukadnezaalthough, €€€€$$$$$$
karradnot sure if one out there exists, but I am not seeing it in original Cura or Cura 2.x
thewsNebukadneza: there's a flying field like 40 minutes from my house
thewsseems like a hassle and yeah costs money
Nebukadnezahm, mine’s ~25-30min
thews there's too many airports and helipads near home
thewsso you have to get really far away
XXCoderif I had a boat though I suppose I could fly over inlet sea
XXCoderdefinitely need boat to recover plane or quads that crash
Nebukadnezahaha :D
XXCoderits good combination, great vistas for flying object with camera
XXCoderand plenty of places to crash lol
lowridahbuild a boat
lowridahat the build a boat workshop at the mall
lowridahjust pick out the boat skin you want and choose however much stuffing to fill it with
XXCoderheh like that navy justice guy in tv show? building one in basement? lol
lowridahi built a 14' motorboat in my yard this summer
XXCoderis there such thing as boat licensing?
lowridahyea, in my state you just take recipts to the DOL and they give you a license
lowridahthey just care that you paid taxes on it, they don't inspect
karradmust think of a good factoid for that one...
TheHexaCubesiderala: your assistance is required
DJHenjintime for me to piss about with firmware
Nebukadnezaanyone good with microfones?
DJHenjindepends on the type, whats up?
Nebukadnezamhhh, i think i already found what i wanted
Nebukadnezayes, the superlux e303b wants phantom-power
Nebukadnezaprobably 48v rather than 24v?
DJHenjinphantom power for condensor mics is usually 48v
DJHenjinis it a professional mic? because if so, those definitely want 48v phantom
Nebukadnezasemi-pro … china-semi-pro? :D
TheHexaCubehmmm, to be honest, I think a few 3D printed parts in my printer would work very well :S
TheHexaCubei finally got to a point where a simple bent metal sheet isn't doable :/
TheHexaCubeeg mounting the lighting panel -
NebukadnezaDJHenjin: thx
sideralaTheHexaCube: what you want
TheHexaCubesiderala: nevermind
TheHexaCubethanks for nothing
HrdwrBoB hooray! I made a video
gthx => MCM Winton Meet 2017 => 1 IRC mentions
HrdwrBoBnot a 3d printer video but still, it was fun.
thewsTheHexaCube: you have a brake at work for bending metal?
TheHexaCubethews: yeah
TheHexaCubewe even have a cnc bending brake but it'd cost money to use that :P
thewsbig fancy one?
TheHexaCubenah small but sturdy manual brake
TheHexaCubeand well, BIG FANCY one :P
thewswhat's small?
thewsI mean there are 4" ones
TheHexaCubeless than two meters
thewsthat's pretty reasonable
TheHexaCubemaybe... 1.5
TheHexaCubewe also have a Trump TruBend
thewshave all of the finger adjustments?
TheHexaCubeso... laser cutter and bending machine
TheHexaCubedunno D:
thewssome have fingers you can put different dies in
thewsto quickly do multiple operations
thewsw/o cnc
TheHexaCubeoh, hmm... no idea
TheHexaCubeI just had a very quick look at it, heh
lowridahbender is great
jstevewhitethat's not what that word means.
lowridahdoes it bend?
lowridahanyone else use caffiene to keep systems from ever sleeping?
lowridahi get these garbage characters in terminals nonstop when i do
TheHexaCubemuh mouse starts acting up again
TheHexaCubedouble clicking when clicking one time and stuff like that
jammireplace its switch
jammimice do that once their switches are worn out
Snert_swap rodents.
Snert_different rodent = no problem?
nullifierin my experience it's a bad shell ground on the usb
nullifierfix that and the double click issue will stop (along with a host of other problems)
TheHexaCubei had to fix the usb cable once due to a broken wire
nullifierDid you reconnect the sheild?
lowridahstep 1 go to shelf step 2 grab a different mouse step 3 done
nullifierStep 4 buy a proper trackball
nullifierThe kind that can also be fired from a cannon
jamminullifier: ++
TheHexaCubelowridah: but but it was an expensive logitech mouse ;(
TheHexaCubenullifier: I think there's no shield to begin with, heh
jammistill just a mouse
nullifierWired?... expensive?
nullifierI doubt that very much
lowridahalmost exclusively use wired
lowridahwired mice > wireless
TheHexaCubewell, it cost me like 50€
nullifierrefresh nut?
TheHexaCubebut maybe I'll go wireless next time, yeah
nullifieryou're not one of those people that sets USB to 1000hz are you
nullifierHID input rate
TheHexaCubewhat... would that even do? D:
nullifiermake it type 1000 characters in the same span it should have typed 200
TheHexaCubethat one looks kinda cool
Spirit532I can already tell you that that repeatability is specced to "no payload, completely still and locked together with hot glue"
Spirit53220 fucking microns?
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: actually, scroll down
TheHexaCubethey're doing the repeatability with a weight
Spirit532no it's complete bullshit
TheHexaCubeoh, not fully extended though
nullifieryeah I agree
Spirit532the Mecademic robot does 10 microns with harmonic gearboxes and closed loop servos
nullifierfully closed?
Spirit532there is zero way a belted drive stepper-driven sheet metal robot will do anywhere near 20 microns
nullifierYes there is... but it ain't useful
TheHexaCubebut they show it being used as a camera guide, I like that :D
Spirit532and those gearboxes make me laugh - that's never going to be precise.
Spirit532I mean, seriously?
Spirit532flat bevelled gear?
Spirit532you might as well go for rubber.
TheHexaCubei wonder, are harmonic drives DIY-able?
nullifierIt's for people w/ more $ than brains
Spirit532if you have a machine shop
TheHexaCubeI guess you'd have to buy the bearings though? (iirc they're oval, not round?)
nullifierharmonic just means dynamically balanced rotating assembly right?
TheHexaCubeor were the bearings round and inside an oval bearing?
TheHexaCubeoval housing*
Spirit532notice how they're only moving one and a half axes
TheHexaCubebut i gotta say it *does* seem sturdier than other robot arms out there
Spirit532honestly I'd be completely okay with that robot if they didn't lie about performance
TheHexaCubewonder how expensive it'd be to make one yourself.. then again I have no need for one, lol
TheHexaCubeit looks like it's mostly just metal plate
nullifierhow did mitsubishi pull it off with those ancient M-EX arms?
Spirit532the same way mecademic does now
Spirit532the tech didn't change a smidge in the last 20 years
nullifierah... good lord.
Spirit532heavy preloading, strain wave gearboxes, and servos.
nullifierThe school has a dozen of those collecting dust
Spirit532got a model number?
Spirit532I'd be willing to make them not collect dust...
TheHexaCubeour school apparently has a couple small robot arms too, and we *could* do something fun with them if we want
nullifierAs would I... they aren't really fiscally minded
TheHexaCubelike... ABB arm
Spirit532got a model number or proper name for the arms?
TheHexaCubewe got this one at work -
TheHexaCubereally tiny compared to the Kuka
Spirit532if you're talking about the MoveMaster EX, I'd seriously be willing to pick one up for a price
Spirit532hot damn
Spirit532I want one
nullifierI'll check in about it and see
nullifierstop back by next week or so and msg me
Spirit532they're rather ancient
nullifierbrushed servos
Spirit532but they've got 0.3mm repeatability and they're fast
nullifierI saw that and went naw
Spirit532tiny payload though
TheHexaCubewhat's the f
nullifierpayload is mostly the arm right
nullifierI mean... not rated
Spirit532no, payload is *just* your EoA tooling
nullifierwhat it's really carrying
Spirit532it's rated to do 1.2kg at full speed and full extension to 0.3mm
Spirit532is what that means
nullifierlike if you took those electronics and mounted them to some modern composite frame
TheHexaCubegoddamnit F360 stop telling me I have outdated components when I don't
Spirit532er, no
Spirit532it needs the rigidity
nullifieraren't they made from aluminum?
Spirit532man, I am seriously thinking about offering money for this
TheHexaCubetitanium it is, then ;P
Spirit532it's only 23kg
nullifierNo way.
Spirit532if it's cheap, shipping to me would be okay-ish
nullifierI don't think that includes the controls
Spirit532runs on anywhere from 120 to 240
Spirit532ah yeah
nullifierThe control box is the size of a laserjet 4
Spirit532the arm itself is 19kg
Spirit532control is 23kg
TheHexaCubelol what
nullifierthere we go lol that's more like it
Spirit532maaan, this is approaching freight
TheHexaCubehow the hell is the controller more than the arm itself?
Spirit532but honestly the innards of the control box need upgrading
nullifieryeah nightmarish
Spirit532take a look and see if they have a few arms collecting dust
Spirit532and controllers
nullifieriirc I saw some wire-wrap action inside
Spirit532but the most important bit of the kit is the FUCKING CABLES
nullifieryeah you can see the cables in that picture
Spirit532if you can find a full kit, or at least arm + cables, I'm seriously interested
nullifierI know the pain of not having the proper cables
Spirit532and if you find another one, I'll help you set yours up
nullifierI have a PY series 100 amp sanyo servo drive here
Spirit532a whopping 16KB of program memory, 629 positions!
nullifiercannot connect to
Spirit532I've been hunting a robot arm for ages
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: does it just interpolate between those positions?
TheHexaCubehmm... actually I remember reading about different interpolation modes in my machining book
nullifierNo doubt there is at least one working unit. They had 3 backups. One is still in its box, brand new, never touched or even had the staples pulled out to check content.
TheHexaCubebut... I didn't actually read it
Spirit532okay I want the brand new unit
Spirit532you keep the rest because you won't blow the bank on shipping
nullifierYeah I'm thinking if they sell them that one is gonna be mine lol
nullifierBut the other 2 backups I doubt were ever used
Spirit532ask them if they'll just give them to you at scrap prices
Spirit532and tell them you'll get them to run and use them
nullifierseeing as they are still labeled 'backup' and in a box
Spirit532(not resell, exclusively)
nullifierthey also have a Denford F1-In-Schools 1400-VME series mill and lathe
Spirit532those are useful though
nullifiercollects dust.
nullifierthe program moved to the highschool, who has full industrial stuff from Haas
nullifierbecause some kids dad has $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Spirit532well HAAS isn't that much $$$$$
Spirit532their machines cost as much as very high-end hobby stuff
nullifier9 axis screw machine? in a high school?
TheHexaCubescrew machine?
nullifierliterally a machine that cuts screws
Spirit532now if they had Matsuura, FANUC, Panasonic or Mori.....
nullifierbig ones
Spirit532that would be another topic
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: GROB
Spirit532GROB is just fuckoff huge
TheHexaCubeyou forgot the most important one :P
Spirit532nothing special really
TheHexaCubegerrrrman quality ;P
Spirit532a Mori Seiki machine will blow any GROB out of the water
Spirit532except on size and price
nullifierThat's what the tool shop uses here
Spirit532(GROBs are cheap by comparison)
nullifierAll EDM
TheHexaCubewell Mori is still german, though
nullifierthey are beautiful
Spirit532Mori Seiki is Japanese
Spirit532now allied with DMG
TheHexaCubeDMG should be german though
Spirit532Deutsche Maschinen Group or something like that I imagine
lowridahuntil china is buy
nullifierWell up until last week I could have freighted it to you through Fastenal
Spirit532in Belarus? :P
nullifierbut they closed up... after... 8 months
nullifierDo you have a fastenal?
Spirit532We have a customs-rape-machine and basically nothing else
Spirit532I just paid $326 worth of taxes on a $700 military camera import
Spirit532that's arriving... tomorrow... or the day after
TheHexaCubeDMG = 'Deckel Maho Gildemeister' :P
Spirit532I mixed it up
Spirit532I totally forgot it was Deckel Maho
Spirit532wait no
Spirit532that's the alliance name
Spirit532DMG Mori
nullifierI seriously need to go back to highschool
nullifierI did not even know where the fuck Belarus was
Spirit532Yeah we're basically a blank spot on the map
Spirit532Nothing new comes out of here
Spirit532... I just import cool shit because nobody sells it
nullifierBeer, apparently
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: but it's really confusing because like... Deckel schould be FPS nowadays and Maho still makes machines (?)
TheHexaCubeat least when I looked for Deckel the FPS website shows up
Spirit532well, Deckel and Maho merged
Spirit532then Glidemaster joined
Spirit532and then they signed cooperation with Mori Seiki
TheHexaCubebut I gotta say, those DMG-Mori machines look incredibly sexy
Spirit532Japanese AND German
nullifieryou know... these amps I have are factory modified for full-close input
Spirit532it's basically the best of both worlds
nullifierI had not considered making an arm from them
nullifierbut I do have 2 large and 6 small
Spirit5326 small?
Spirit532define small
nullifier60 watt
nullifier200v .7a
Spirit532the RV-M1 has 18 and 30 watt motors
nullifierlarge are 200vac 3.1a
Spirit532but like, if you push the motor through a 100:1 gearbox
TheHexaCubehmm, DMG is quite a bit larger than Grob, though
Spirit532you don't care
Spirit532you work at Grob, shush TheHexaCube
nullifierright... it's the fully closed part
TheHexaCubebuuut GROB is market leader in automotive applications
TheHexaCubeby far
nullifierwhere the drive is aware of both sides of the mechanical problem
Spirit532because GROB makes walk-in machines
TheHexaCubewe make small machines too
Spirit532not so much aware as compensating linearly
Spirit532TheHexaCube, I can still sit in your smallest machine
Spirit532so no
Spirit532and in your largest I can drive a car into
TheHexaCubeyou'd have to make yourself small though
TheHexaCubehuh, DMG makes big ass machines aswell, though
nullifierit'd be great if I could find someone who worked w/ sanyo drives
Spirit532I can probably get you manuals and help
TheHexaCubei think some might even be larger D:
Spirit532in exchange for helping me get that robot ;)
Spirit532I want to mount a camera onto it
nullifierI have manuals for sure.
nullifierNot the RIGHT ones... because factory modified
Spirit532controls should be simple
nullifierheh I can't even get a serial connection. at least so far
Spirit532you'd be surprised
Spirit532PUBG sucks
lowridahno u
Spirit532nullifier, I'm willing to bet there's either a jumper inside or it's running at some odd baud rate
Spirit532or different voltages
TheHexaCubeyo DocGonzo420
notauserI wonder how much it would cost to get the extrusions of a 2020 kossel gold anodized
TheHexaCubeDocGonzo420: you should buy Dead by Daylight
Spirit532probably a lot
Spirit532plated with real gold? probably less
TheHexaCubenotauser: you can buy them on aliexpress I think
lowridahwhy would you bother either way
Spirit532you can buy everything on aliexpress
notauserBecause I want to have a gold and purple kossel for shits and giggles
Spirit532in stock: yes
Spirit532price: fuck you, too much
lowridahok, i guess
nullifier this datasheet is for the PY A-H type... I have A-E (full close)
nullifierit all says plain serial
nullifierbut no espeaky. Even through the indicated pins on the OP port
Spirit532You could contact Sanyo
Spirit532give them serial numbers and ask politely for the datasheet
nullifierHeh... yeah. I tried.
Spirit532just gotta know where to ask
nullifierThat was a month ago... called, emailed. Got an initial response 'we'll get back to you'
TheHexaCube notauser
Spirit532you need the head office
nullifiertried the servo center in IL and HQ in CA
Spirit532send an English email to the head office
rpifanamericans and there halloween
Spirit532in JP
notauserHow is shipping cost linear...
rpifani personally dont get it
nullifierAhhh... JP
notauserShouldn't it get cheaper the more you buy lol
nullifierNow that I did not try
Spirit532does the name not give it away?
nullifierToo true
Spirit532apparently HexChat can't into Japanese
nullifierIt displayed for me.
TheHexaCubehrmpf how do I mount this PCB
Spirit532bent sheet
TheHexaCubejust thought about how to do that
Spirit532nullifier, look at this lol
TheHexaCubeso much bent sheet *sigh*
Spirit532they're asking $10k for an almost educational dinosaur that was in operation
TheHexaCubebut I love it :D
nullifieris that realistic?
Spirit532if you drop two or three zeroes
nullifieryeah that's kinda what I thought
nullifier1k would be pushing it for scrap
Spirit532why would you scrap harmonic drives
Spirit532I'll twist your nipples off
nullifierwhich they essentially are except to the very select few persons on the planet that would know how to re-use them
nullifieryou would die at the stuff that gets thrown away every day in the US
nullifierI can go to any of the factories here and pull tooling out of the trash
Spirit532for contrast
notauserI want to build a 6DOF platform but I'm afraid to mount shit to it lol
Spirit532this is still overpriced
Spirit532but close to realistic
TheHexaCubehmm, what's fanuc known for?
Spirit532robots and CNC drills
TheHexaCubebecause that name sounds so familiar
Spirit532now this
nullifierDenford used Fanuc controls in that little mill the school has
Spirit532this is more realistic
Spirit532for the "used, old" market
nullifiernow that is neat
notauserFreight cost on those things are more than it's worth
nullifierand probably useful
Spirit532your choice
notauserProlly like $600 to side load on a container
Spirit532want KUKA?
Spirit532get KUKA.
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: that sorta stuff makes me want a hall just for myself
nullifierIf I was going to get one it'd be surplus around here
Spirit532see that's what I mean
TheHexaCubewhere I can just put all the cool stuff :D
Spirit532there were a few KUKA KR350ies going for $999 + controller
Spirit532350kg payload at like
Spirit5322m extension
nullifierso handles injection mold dies no prob
Spirit532cars no prob
nullifierI think dies are about the same as a car
nullifier1-2 ton?
Spirit532somewhere there
Spirit532KUKA makes the KR 1000 Titan
TheHexaCubemwahaha I can't wait to play around with those arms!!! :P
Spirit5321 metric ton payload
nullifierACTION plays around with TheHexaCube's arms
nullifierStop hitting yourself
Spirit532I'm pretty sure you need 3 people and 6 dead man switches when you get to 1 ton payloads
Spirit532and a "smells funny" ESTOP
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: it could probably rip itself out of the foundation, lol
nullifierthe ol' septuple palm-up
Spirit532the KR350 can
Spirit532if you tell it to do something, *it will do something*
Spirit532no questions asked
Spirit532so if you tell it to drive under itself with no soft limits
Spirit532it will rip the concrete slab off the floor
TheHexaCubeI gotta say that a person being next to the kuka arm at work is pretty scary
TheHexaCubeeven if it's just going a few mm/s
Spirit532the pendant has a dead man's switch
Spirit532if you let go of the grip, it stops dead
Spirit532... if you let go of the grip at 100% speed, it makes expensive noises.
Spirit532(and stops)
nullifierexpensive noises are my least favorite
notauserIT's like the sound of your hotend going through your bed lol
Spirit532the guys over at our nuclear reactor had expensive noises a few months ago
TheHexaCubedo you guys know what kinda noise a drill press makes when you accidentally try to switch gears while it's running?
gthx => Futurama - Thompson&#39;s Teeth => 1 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubeTHAT'S my least favourite noise
nullifierlike that?
Spirit532it's more like
Spirit532"beep, beep, beep"
Spirit532*red light flashing*
TheHexaCube"404 gears not found"
nullifierlol star trek style error beep
nullifierjust three beeps
Spirit532well it depends on how badly you fucked up
nullifiersorry... LCARS.
Spirit532KUKA controllers do something fun if you fuck up badly
Spirit532the control cabinet screams
Spirit532all of it
Spirit532servo drives, power supplies, PC
Spirit532all of them have buzzers.
TheHexaCubefun thing about the control cabinet
nullifierHopefully tuned to 3khz
TheHexaCubeit seems to run like.. win 95
nullifierso... reliably?
TheHexaCubebut has a touchscreen... it's like... WORLDS meeting :P
notauserAnyone used the eleksmaker 2500mW laser burner I'm trying to think of a good way to mount a cable tray for keeping the wires out of the movements
Spirit532touch was a thing in the CRT times
nullifierit sure was
Spirit532hell, touch was a thing in FILM times!
TheHexaCubesomething else I saw was a 3d scanning/shape recognition running as a win 8 or win 10 app :D
nullifierI have a couple of ELO crt's with COACH touch interfaces
Spirit532film projection and multiplexed IR beams
TheHexaCubefelt equally weird
Spirit532hey nullifier, you have weird tech
Spirit532got some high end thermal cameras?
notauserI'm thinking about just putting clips on the backside of the y-axis or something
TheHexaCubethe bot has spoken!
Spirit532I'd kill for 320x240 radiometric or 640x480 60hz(radiometric VGA would also make me moist)
nullifierWell not several million dollar high end no
Spirit532nah this is a few thousand dollars new high end
nullifierVGA radiometric?
Spirit532640x512 radiometric
Spirit532that'd be what...
nullifierThe sensor for the one we make is 75,000
Spirit532FLIR A65?
Spirit532the FLIR A65 is around $6k
Spirit532640x512 @ 30hz
Spirit532you can find em on eBay for around $2k
notauserWould this add too much weight for the smaller steppers?
nullifierYeah these are in a very special and not-even discussable really trail camera
Spirit532depends on the speed notauser
Spirit532nullifier, cryocooled, I assume?
nullifier*cough* maybe
Spirit532... is the sensor Israeli?
notauserI have some bigger kaysan steppers that I could swap them out with since I'm removing the stock board and putting a smoothie board clone on it
Spirit532because that sounds like a BLACKBIRD from SCD to me
nullifierI can neither confirm nor deny that
notauserBecause overkill is best lol
Spirit532nailed it
nullifierI call it a trail camera
nullifierbut yeah... NASA grade
TheHexaCubeugh I'm at 290 sketches in my main file again
Spirit532for when you need to see the trail 6km away and spot a tick in the deer's fur?
nullifierFor when you need to see the thermal profile of the mite on the tick in the deers fur at 50km...
Spirit532ah, I see
Spirit532so you live in germanium porn land
nullifierlol porn
Spirit532come on, 50km
TheHexaCubedid someone say GERMANium
HrdwrBoBnullifier: and then dispatch an anti-mite device
Spirit532that's gotta be what, 1000mm?
HrdwrBoBthat runs on magic beans
Spirit5321000mm atherm germanium would be....
Spirit532a few kilos...
nullifierit's a rather large die
Spirit532I'm talking about the glass
Spirit532but I'm really not looking for anything like that
nullifierI know...
Spirit532384x288 @ 30hz would be lovely
Spirit532for my own use
nullifierit wouldn't even be usable for anyone I don't think
nullifierit's too special
Spirit532cryocooled high res?
Spirit532very usable
Spirit532send me one if you get scraps, haha
nullifiernot something for a basement lab
nullifierThose all go straight back to whence they came
nullifierliterally next-day'd
nullifierthose are scary days too because we float until they send another
nullifierIF they send another
nullifierBetter hope your process didn't fuck it up, basically.
nullifierThey don't even let floor people handle the sensors anymore... has to be straight to engineers desk
Spirit532yeah that's expected
Spirit532though what you're describing feels like this
nullifierit looks something like that perhaps
Spirit532I don't think I know any other manufacturer of very high-res cryocooled arrays
Spirit532FLIR probably has some internal stuff
nullifierYeah it is domestic, I think I can say that much
Spirit532FLIR then
Spirit532they're a monopoly
nullifierit's amazing how little effort it takes to make one of the devices that contains them
Spirit532but you charge a premium obviously
Spirit532that's how it works
nullifier"Put power in here." "Ok, it's working now."
Spirit532I want a cryocooler too, but I have no use for these tiny IC-cooling ones
Spirit532too little power
nullifierand yes, the effort made is basically why I have a job
nullifierand can fuck around on IRC
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: tadah, bent sheets \o/
nullifierwhilst I job
Spirit532look at you, leaking secret info over IRC
nullifierheh, if you put a whole lot of stuff together you might be able to figure it out
nullifierbut even then... not really valuable info
Spirit532but yeah, my current top two hunted items are >320x240@30hz radiometric thermal
Spirit532and an industrial robot
nullifierHowever... the JTAG adapter for this camera?
nullifierYeah... That's the expensive item there.
Spirit532I own 5 high speed cameras now
nullifierWe sell it to the end-people for 100,000% markup
Spirit532it's a bit of an addiction
Spirit532my latest acquisition arrives tomorrow or in a day
Spirit5321536x1024 @ 1kfps
nullifierwow... where do you store the raw for that huge a buffer
Spirit532all the cameras I own, bar one, have internal RAM
nullifiermust be fast af
Spirit532one's got 2 gigs, one's got 4, one... embarassingly little, and this one I have no idea yet
Spirit532(bought AS-IS)
nullifierI'm not an engineer so some of this stuff is a little mind-blowing
Spirit532it's regular RAM most of the time
Spirit532the cameras are stupid simple in terms of architecture
Spirit532sensor -> FPGA -> RAM -> back into FPGA -> ethernet or CPU -> ethernet
nullifierI was just considering how much data that is but I'm sure it's immediately not raw
Spirit532it's all raw
TheHexaCubeITS RAW
TheHexaCubewhere is the lamb sauce!!!
TheHexaCubeACTION has Gordon Ramsay flashbacks
Spirit532it's only 1.5 gigapixels per second
Spirit532not much
nullifierOh I see bulls are still stomping on btc
Spirit532the highest end cameras right now push 26Gpix/s and higher
TheHexaCubei wanna get into bitcoins so badly
TheHexaCubebut I can't afford to waste money
nullifierthat's rather a contradiction
TheHexaCubewaste as in, risk that bitcoins are worth less than when I bought them :P
nullifieryou don't need money to get into bitcoin at all
nullifierI can give you 50 cents in bitcoin today
nullifierjust run nicehash
nullifierany intel processor is good for about 50c
nullifierwith AVX-NI
TheHexaCubewell, the bitcoin value increase only is profitable if you start out with enough money :P
nullifierSo 4$ doubled isn't 8$?
TheHexaCuberight but what are $4?
TheHexaCubebasically nothing
nullifierWhat you lost this week by not hashing with idle processor time
Spirit532hashing on a CPU is useless nowadays
Spirit532you burn a dozen times more power
TheHexaCubeI spend $4 just by eating at my company one day
nullifierThat's true, but it's profitable
Spirit532how is it profitable though
nullifierjoules to dollars
Spirit532joules spent screaming that your power bill is $20 while you made $0.2?
nullifierunless you are paying more than 30 cents USD per KW/hr
Spirit532modern GPUs barely hash bitcoin now
Spirit532they have ASICs just to do crypto
TheHexaCube$wa 0.24€ in USD
nullifierdoesn't have to be bitcoin specifically
DumDuckBot(TheHexaCube) Result: $0.28 (US dollars) -
nullifierhence nicehash
TheHexaCubethat's how much one kWh is here
nullifierit's 0.07 here
nullifierSo yeah it wouldn't be profitable for you at all
nullifierunless you consider LTG
Spirit532in other tech you can buy cheap
Spirit532these things are still for sale on eBay for $30/10
TheHexaCubeanyways, I'd love to just invest 200-500€ in BTC
nullifierthe hell is it?
TheHexaCubeand wait for it to go up
Spirit532big MEMS micromirrors with electromagnetic drive
nullifier?! laser galvos?
abondisSo I got an NPN-NO inductive proximity sensor. I can't figure out on which pin on the ramps I have to connect the sensor's output ... also, if my firmware doesn't have the setting for the pull-up resistor, it's still safe to connect it ?
Spirit532kinda, but chipscale
Spirit532I want to use them as galvos, got myself a tray
Spirit532$3 a piece if you buy 10, sealed new
Spirit532I just wish they weren't obsolete :(
nullifiermy advisor said the belts are all dried out on those arms Spirit532
Spirit532doesn't matter
nullifierthat is why they were shelved
nullifierjust fyi
Spirit532the belts are probably replaceable
nullifierhe is going to ask the dean tomorrow
Spirit532just let him know that it's NOT FOR RESALE
nullifieryeah they know me
Spirit532that drives some edu people up the wall
nullifierI buy all their printers for scrap
Spirit532I got freebies from my first school's chem lab because I told them I wanted to experiment
Spirit532they even offered me like a kilo of potassium, and this was back when that probably ran $300
TheHexaCube boy those are expensive
nullifierYeah they are
nullifieryou want to order it from antminer
Spirit532the hilarious thing is
Spirit532it's 16nm ASICs
Spirit532the forefront of custom silicon
Spirit532and all designed to do one thing - run SHA all day long at billions of numbers per second
nullifierthat's one of those not warranted through anyone unless you buy from the people who make it
Spirit532my mistake :P
TheHexaCubeI honestly feel like the people profiting the most from bitcoins are those that make those miners
Spirit532scrypt will stall on this
Spirit532these ASICs are JUST for SHA
nullifierI thought the antminer was specifically scrypt
HrdwrBoBTheHexaCube: almost certainly you come out ahead by buying the currency
HrdwrBoBrather than the mining gear
nullifieror is there another one
TheHexaCubeHrdwrBoB: yeah, that too
Spirit532scrypt is almost impossible to make an ASIC for
HrdwrBoBTheHexaCube: because of the moving target, too
TheHexaCubeI still wish I had gotten one BTC when they were at 100€
Spirit532for some mathematical reasons I have no qualifications to talk about
TheHexaCubebut everyone wishes that I guess
nullifierheh AMD said there will not be a need for mining soon
TheHexaCubehmmm what I wondered
nullifiersure... all the bitcoins will be mined. Guess we don't need to do any transactions afterwards lol
TheHexaCube*actually, nevermind
TheHexaCubeACTION smacks fingers
nullifierbad boy
TheHexaCubemaybe it makes sense to get some BTC after the next minor crash
nullifierheh minor
nullifierit's going to halve at least
TheHexaCubeyou know, next time value drops by 20% :P
jeffdm_workI think THC is 18 now.
TheHexaCubeindeed I am!
TheHexaCubetotally grown up and adult-y
nullifier7 more years
nullifieraccording to insurance at least
nullifierthey're rather good at statistics
TheHexaCubelemme see if insurance already took muh money away
TheHexaCubeapparently not
TheHexaCubemy arrow payment just disappeared
Spirit532they shipped parts
Spirit532it doesn't matter :P
nullifierACTION nods
TheHexaCubeelectrical components jeffdm_work
nullifierthey've done that to me a bunch
nullifierit will come back in a few days
jeffdm_workgod every distributor is multinational
nullifierwhen the part ACTUALLY ships
TheHexaCubelike... my bank tells me "yeah in the next few days we'll subtract xx.xx€"
Spirit532I'm abusing TheHexaCube to get parts for myself
TheHexaCubeaaand that info is GONE
TheHexaCubenullifier: they did ship it already
nullifierSpousal abuse
TheHexaCubeit's in germany
Spirit532I just punched myself in the eye with a finger
Spirit532why did I do that
nullifierspousal abuse
nullifierI called it
Casteilyou probably shouldn't do that
TheHexaCubeno but seriously
TheHexaCubedoes that mean I get free parts
nullifierlol... possibly
Spirit532probably not
TheHexaCubebecause that'd be kinda cool you know
Spirit532have they shipped the shift registers yet?
TheHexaCubethen again doesn't matter too much because most is for Spirit532 :P
nullifierwhen I order parts from digikey a certain way, sometimes some weird company in colorado picks up the tab
TheHexaCubeSpirit532: yeah
TheHexaCubemonday I think
Spirit532yeah we'll wait until you have all of them
Spirit532I want to start another month and reset my taxes anyway
TheHexaCubeor maybe I'm just imagining things and they didn't actually give me the notice
TheHexaCubeand it has to show up yet
nullifierhow far away is estonia from belarus
DocGonzo420 TheHexaCube come backkkkkkk
Spirit532not very
TheHexaCubeDocGonzo420: buy Dead by Daylight bruh
TheHexaCubeit's fun af
nullifierI have seriously considered visiting there... family
Spirit532well it's in the EU
DocGonzo420ill check it
Spirit532Belarus isn't
nullifierthat I've never met... none of my family here has ever in fact
Spirit532well, bring a robot or two as carry-on luggage!
nullifieralso I've heard that it's pretty easy to find a wife there
Spirit532never been to Estonia
nullifiera domain that gets abused a lot
Spirit532I live close to the border with Latvia
DocGonzo420what is dead by daylight TheHexaCube
nullifierI'm basically in canada if not for a giant fucking frozen lake
qixfortuneI think I figured out why the gears on my wade extruder are slipping. The thing must be oblong.
TheHexaCubeDocGonzo420: fun multiplayer horror game
TheHexaCube1 guy is the killer and there's 4 survivors on a map
TheHexaCubegoal of the killer is to well, kill all 4 others
TheHexaCubethe 4 guys gotta escape
TheHexaCubereally fun concept
TheHexaCubewe are 4 already, need one more to play it :D
Spirit532nullifier, the great thing about those movemaster robots is that the servos are DC
Spirit532and encoders are simple quadrature
Spirit532you could eeeeeasily make your own drive board
Spirit532fullbridge, tank cap, some medium-speed micro or tiny CPLD, times the number of axes, plus one big processor
Spirit532(to do inverse kinematics math)
jeffdm_workPlus enough PID tuning to make you hate yourself
Spirit532harmonic drives
Spirit532they stop when you tell them to stop
Spirit532no PID tuning required
Spirit532beyond maybe inertial
Spirit532for what little inertia there is
jeffdm_workyeah right
Spirit532they're not backdrivable so it's easy
nullifierSo... that means they'd stay in a position even when not on, if put in one?
nullifierso you wouldn't even need the P... just ID
nullifierunless my brain no worky