MerkWerkoh lulz, cant deal with relative E moves
imrclyany tricks with woodfill?
lowridahyes, if it's real wood you can use to striate the heat on it
lowridahlike that
imrclythat's neat
grim_Hi all
jstevewhitethe fuck is up, people?
imrclyplaying with my wood
durrfhot wood i hope
gthxPLA is and smells like maple syrup and is polylactide (aka polylactate and poly(lactic acid)). It is biodegradable & nontoxic, though commercial PLA may contain additives that are less benign. It has a relatively little thermal expansion (which would result in warping). It melts ~185C and has a Tg (glass transition temperature) ~60C and
gthx and is 1.210–1.430 g·cm−3
jstevewhitemolten 'wood'?
imrclyhad to extrude at 220 which seems high
Jessayim guessing when building a custom 3d printer
Jessaymost design it first in cad
Jessayso tedious thoughhhh
durrfi believe so
durrfyou can import mcmaster carr parts from within fusion 360
jstevewhiteJessay: unless it's a bedflinger
imrclyyou don't have to design it first you can just wing it
jstevewhiteyou don't need cad for that.
durrfwhich makes things easy
Jessayive got 12 pieces of 650mm 3030 extrusion to make a frame with
Jessayand 5 rails of hiwin/iko 550mm
jstevewhiteBedflingers are easy. boxes, not so much.
crankythat's going to be a big ass printer
Jessayyea i know just damn this is tedious
jstevewhitesounds like it, eh?
durrfprinting asses eh?
crankyyes, you can print very large asses with it
Jessayyea this got out of hand pretty quick
Jessaynot sure how
jeffdm_homethat's a small ass unless that's just one cheek
crankythe biggest problem with pritner that large is they aren't going to be faster per meter than a smaller one
durrfand the motion bits take up space
Jessayim not gonna max it out
durrfhow big is railcore II
Jessay250 only reason i am doing this
SpeedEvilUnless you can put a massive nozzle on it
jstevewhiteSpeedEvil: +++
ethan_Lseen crankylinuxuser
gthxcrankylinuxuser was last seen in #siderala 2 days, 4 hours, 12 minutes, 29 seconds ago saying ''.
jstevewhitestick a 60 watt heater and a 1.2mm nozzle on that phucker.
crankyI'm not tht cranky dammit
Jessaysee my electric bill sky rocket after a 2 day print
durrf i like the 1.2mm nozzle
crankyhrmm how many watts does a extruder typically draw
jstevewhiteJessay: like, 18 cents or something
jstevewhite25, most of 'em
Jessaytrue its not like my hot tub
Jessaywhich adds 70 a month
SpeedEvilthe bed heater may be moderately more
durrfyeah the biggest draw is the bed
cranky25 watts is not $70/mo
crankyoh heh
Jessayyou misread
lowridahi almost built a delta big enough to print a 5 gallon bucket before i realized i only print little stuff
Jessayi mean ideally ill keep it smallerish for now right now i have glass and silicone beds for 310x310 and 400x400
crankyhow many watts overall would a say a prusa use while printing
Jessaythe glass is 6mm borosilicate
imrclyi am building a hang printer to print a giant weeping angel and put it on a Roomba with a photo cell
durrf this isnt quite the max size my delta can print but 101 hero for scale
crankydurrf: looksl ike a nice print, maybe next you can print a better potato camera
durrf:( its actually a good camera its the potatoman holding it
SpeedEvilcranky: well under 100w
SpeedEvilcranky: average
crankySpeedEvil: with the heatbed?
durrf same camera
imrclyi have a kilowatt i will plug it in and run a print and see
Jessaywhy did vagina pop in my head
Jessaythe fuck is wrong with me
durrfhahaha i kind of got lost in the triangles for a second there and had a similar thought
imrclythat is a 3d image of vaginas
durrfthe model dosnt actually look like that its because its something like 0.8mm layers
Jessayyea no idea first thought was that
Jessayand then i shook my head and said the fuck is wrong with you to myself
gthx => Fractal Pyramid with Continuous Cross-section by ricktu => 3 IRC mentions
crankyfor me, 150 watts running continuously for a 30 day month costs $14.49
ZX101imrcly i'm using the earler rod verient of that exact printer.
imrclyi am now running the full metal box frame so much better
ZX101hay i'll take the old frame :)
imrclyused all the metal bits to build the new one
AmeisenI was considering getting some punched metal square tubing
Ameisenbuilding a box frame out of that
ZX101still got all the wood bits?
kraegartwo people just built aluminum sided railcores. they're loud. the aluminum acts like a speaker
SpeedEvilkraegar: adding mass to the sides helps.
Ameisenthey need to fill it with something
SpeedEvilTo damp.
SpeedEvilAdd for example blu-tak or something to the sides
imrclyZX101: they are warped which is why i upgraded
ZX101Well i want to push through building a hyper cube but i'm taking that project sloow
kraegarSpeedEvil: yeah, the one guy painted his with plasti-dip paint. that helped quiet it down
ZX101aah you must have some serious humidity
ZX101i seald mine with deck spray when i got it...
Brandanoor car firewall liner
AmeisenI can get 4' of aluminum square tube for $14
kraegarhere's one of the aluminum railcores:
Ameisenor 6' of steel square tube for $20
ZX101Ameisen but can you square it and lock it in place without it driving you nuts
kraegarhe wasn't quite done at that point
AmeisenZX101 - it's tube...
Ameisenso... I don't see why not?
Ameisencut them to the same measure, lock them together using right angles
ZX101i am so close to saing screw it and using the bottem half of the roling table thing i have my printer on as the frame for the new one
kraegargoing to start offering hdpe panels for the railcore as soon as I figure out how to cut it. Should be a great material for it.
ZX101i'll just have to figure out how to make a lifting heatbed and moving the gantry in x and y
ZX101honistly tho any one know of a US seller of frames... i just need a cheepO than can take a 200x300 heatbed
TheHexaCubesup nerds
ZX101hi TheHexaCube long time no see
AmeisenZX101 - squaring metal should be equivalent to squaring wood
Ameisena pita but doable
ZX101if you got the tools for it
Ameisenthe tools aren't that different.
ZX101i lack the tools and the sight
ZX101i can barelly operate my drimmle i tend to make jigs for it.
ZX101dont feel like cutting off part or all of another apindige
Ameisenmiter saw with a steel or metal blade, drill with carbide bits
Ameisena grinder (even just a grinder bit)
ZX101yep would cost me more than a full frame kit.
Ameisenwhich... is what I'd use to build a wooden frame as well
Ameisen'cept using a wood blade
Ameisenand need a sander instead of a grinder
ZX101naww use the metal one
Ameisenmetal blade isn't ideal for wood
ZX101and the grinder it will work... just kind of friction burnny
Ameisenfine toothed blade is better for precise wood cuts
Ameisennow, if I were _welding_ a frame... that'd be a different story.
DJHenjinfinally getting around to printing a proper storage box for my nozzles
ZX101i still need a rod kit.
ZX101yay nooozleses
ZX101i finaly ended up with a 1.75mm hotend :p
DJHenjinwell, for 10 of them, the other 5 I will have to print another box for
ZX101what no parametric file :(
ZX101ooh wait
ZX101i got this scad file for makeing terminal blocks
Ameisenmy main problem is I haven't worked with steel or aluminum a lot
ZX101would work great for a nozzle holder
Ameisenmore experience with wood
DJHenjinunfortunately the box I downloaded is only for 10, and it isn't parametric
ZX101hang on i'll find the file :)
DJHenjinbut this one has a lid
DJHenjinand I'll have to download openscad
ZX101well :p
ZX101mine you could of screwd to the printer and chose as needed :p hehe
DJHenjinI don't have any good flat spots for doing that though
ZX101it's in thingaverse.
ZX101if you change your mind
ZX101under terminal blocks
ZX101not by me ofcorse
ZX101i just needed a tbock to fix heatbed conectors off my ramps :p
ZX101using BIIIG screws and Biig ferrels (round and horseshoo) no more heating up
ZX101specialy since its printed in pla :p gona have to redo it in abs or nylon soon as i get my heatbed back up... could play ring around the ramps but i'm lazy
AmeisenI wish Cura had an option to slow down the print speed on bridges./
ZX101umm that would make them droop more O.o
ZX101i allways thought the idea was to boost bridge speed
DJHenjinenderextrude, faster, high cooling, for tight bridges
ZX101sigh unless i wanna wiat for the slow-slooow boat from china looks like i'm going acrylic. wich is sad a wood would run me about the same. and i'm not sure about the back :/
AmeisenDJHenjin - not sure how to increase cooling more
Ameisenbigger fan.
Ameisen_more_ fans!
DJHenjinpretty much, or more fan
ZX101peltear cooling
ZX101shoot LN2 at it
imrclymineral spriti liquid cooled
ZX101ewww sticky
Ameisenthe print bed should just always be immersed in LN2
ZX101I printed out a 20x20x20 calabration cube in abs it came out 1x0.2x0.3
DJHenjinyeah, cuz THAT would help adhesion
ZX101i think it shrunk
DJHenjinthat is a lot of shrinkage if it came out that small
ZX101I printed something in PLA but everytime i take it out the bath of coolent it assplods into little pices
AmeisenDJHenjin - of course
Ameisenthe material would be frozen to the plate
Ameisencan't get much more adhered.
AmeisenZX101 - you have to warm the part gradually.
ZX101ya not like were printing with glass or anything
Ameisengoing from -196C to room temperature needs to go slowly
Ameisenon that note, an ice printer would be fun just to read the description.
Ameisen'the ice filament enters the extruder. Then, molten ice ('water') is extruded through the nozzle, where it cools and freezes.'
ZX101printing with ice runs into the same problems printing with metal
Ameisenand additional problems!
ZX101well i gota keep looking for a frame
ZX101talk to yall later
ZX101(wonder if i can print one)
Ameisenjust use your house as the frame
Ameisenmake a wire printer where all of the pulleys are mounted to your walls/ceilings
ZX101i cant find a rod set for ... sigh
AmeisenI am wondering if I should print new/better Z/X carriage mounts.
AmeisenTHe current ones are aluminum, but their design is... not great
DJHenjinthat's the polite way to say shitty
filadomeanyone run Cura and Slic3r on CentOS?
durrf this might help
TheRockhi guys
durrfhi the rock did you get a cupcake printer
durrfdid you see theres a printer that uses poop
TheRockthe printers are too expensive
durrfif you return enough bottles....
TheRockthat was my plan
TheHexaCubethat's how I pay off my car
durrfim trying
durrfbut the soda in the cans costs more then i get back
durrfso im losing money
durrfi dont get how you do it
TheHexaCubeOne simple tick
TheHexaCubeBankers HATE this guy!
TheHexaCubeClick here to find out how to make millions
durrfbank error in your favor! collect 45 dollars
TheHexaCubeyou have cancer
durrfplease pay 100,000 dollars
TheHexaCubepay $100.000 or stop playing
durrfi overspent on gifts
durrfand now im broke as fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck
TheRocki think you can retun the empty bottles without the soda inside
durrfyeah thats what im doing
TheHexaCubedurrf: you gotta sell the soda too
durrfbut buying the cans full then drinking the soda is netting me negative money
durrfomg i have 1.66 in my 2nd bank account
durrfwhat can you even buy for 1.66 these days
TheRockyou can purchase a meal in mcdonalds
durrfnot in canada
durrftoo bad i cant pull money out of my retirement fund easily
TheRockbut in bangladesh
TheHexaCubeman I wish mcdonalds would be this cheap here
TheHexaCubeyou could get like a Leberkässemmel!
durrfis that a happy meal
TheHexaCubeman I bet you americans don't even have that
durrfits just balogne???
TheRockyou only get bread
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: LKW mit ABS
TheHexaCubeew what the fuck is balogne
TheHexaCubeLeberkäs looks so much better man
TheRockyou just need to kill a cow
TheHexaCubeseen DocGonzo*
gthxDocGonzo420 was last seen in #reprap 1 day, 3 hours, 46 minutes, 41 seconds ago saying 'Lol I always love that defense angle'.
Nebukadnezaactually we had LKW with ABS for breakfast in office XD
durrf same thing just we use rounded holes to extrude it instead of butthole-shapes
TheHexaCubewait what is LKW with ABS?
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: Leber Käs Weck mit A Bissal Senf
TheHexaCubeit's SEMMEL
TheHexaCubenot Weckerl
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: not in baden
Nebukadnezayou bavarians maybe :-)
TheRockguys i have an idea now
Nebukadnezaif you make knödel with semmel
Nebukadnezaand you want to feed multiple people
Nebukadnezawhat exactly do you make?
Nebukadnezasemmelknödel, semmelnknödel, semmelknödeln or semmelnknödeln?
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: so 1 semmel and 1 knödel
Nebukadnezathat’s a mighty big knödel
TheHexaCube5 Semmelknödel
Nebukadneza1 semmel and multiple knödel? so semmelknödeln
Nebukadnezabut if it’s too many 1 semmel might not be enough
Nebukadnezaso most of the time you make semmelnknödeln
Nebukadneza(multiple semmeln, multiple knödeln)
Nebukadneza(~1920s radio commedy show by a bavarian comedian …)
durrfshut up
Nebukadnezadurrf: no
durrfi dont even know what these words are
durrfand its making me hungry
durrfill take it all
Nebukadnezasemmel = bavarian „dinner roll“~ish bun
TheHexaCubeyou're welcome durrf
Nebukadnezaknödel = rolled and cooked tight / dense dough including breadcrumbs, semmeln, flour, egg and spices
TheHexaCubethat's Schweinekrustenbraten with Semmelknödel (no n!)
Nebukadneza^ what he linked
TheHexaCubeand Kraut
TheHexaCubethat was too much for durrf
Nebukadnezaragequit rage-rejoin?
durrfim nearly 2 hours out for lunch
durrfand that picture of that brisket or whatever that was
durrfits painful
merkur2k_what are you kids up to now
Nebukadnezanot a brisket
TheHexaCubewhat the fuck are you calling a brisket durrf
TheHexaCubedon't make me beat you up
Nebukadnezaits the bacon part of the pig
durrfits just meat
durrfi just
Nebukadnezabroiled so the skin gets crackly and crinkly
durrfshit i dont know what to get for lunch
Nebukadnezawith the meat still juicy and tender
TheHexaCubewell screw you all I'm hungry now too
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: our office has so many sweets
Nebukadnezai kind of feel sick
Nebukadnezaeven though i just came back from the gym
Nebukadnezaalso someone brought LKW mit ABS for breakfast
Nebukadneza… way too much
TheHexaCubewell I'll be happy to take whatever is left .P
TheHexaCube* :P
TheHexaCubedurrf: what about some Currywurst
Brandanowhy ruin a curry with wurstel and vice-versa?
TheRockcan i print this meals
TheRockor why are they subject in this channel
_abc_Guys, is tronxy a well known maker? They seem to have no proper docs.
TheHexaCubeBrandano: because otherwise it wouldn't be a currywurst?
NebukadnezaBrandano: that’s a german thing
Nebukadnezait’s more like a spiced tomato sauce than curry
Nebukadnezawith some curry mix powder sprinkled over it
Nebukadnezawelcome to german fastfood 101
TheHexaCubeoh and of course Kebab :P
_abc_Ick German fastfood curry.
_abc_Sausages from the grill are very okay though.
_abc_Thüringer etc. Nomnom
Nebukadnezacurrywurst is usually a red sausage …
_abc_I'll take curry rice diy with normal spices, nothing fast food, not in Germany.
Nebukadnezaand again … nothing to do with „curry“ except for spice-mix-powder sprinkles on top
_abc_Yeah. And the horrible list of ingredients in the 'tomato' sauce.
TheHexaCubewell the sauce at work really does contain curry :D
NebukadnezaTheHexaCube: as in, spice-mix
TheHexaCubewell curry itself is a spice mix :P
TheHexaCubebut I get what you mean
_abc_Most people have no idea what curry is, in spice terms.
Nebukadnezabut anyhow
_abc_And European curry 'bags' of spices are like 50% salt by weight.
Nebukadnezait’s a good fastfood, once every 2 months or so
Nebukadneza_abc_: salt? never seen that
_abc_Look at ingredient lists?
Nebukadnezadunno what you buy XD
_abc_I get some non salt curry powder from a German maker... not in Germany... Fuchs?
Nebukadnezacurcuma, cumin, coriander seeds, ginger, cinnamon, pepper, sweet pepper
Nebukadnezaare the usuals
Nebukadnezaif there’s salt in it i won’t buy it
_abc_Yes, but you need a loupe to read the ingredient list now. 0.8mm letters.
Nebukadnezasure … i read them
Nebukadnezano salt
Nebukadnezaalso no salt
Nebukadnezaand to be honest, even the cheapest supermarket shit-currypowder-mix doesn’t have salt
Nebukadneza(at least here)
RaazeerI was having a look at the arduino due earlier. I was wondering, has anyone ever modified a ramps to work with the 3.3V?
_abc_Can anyone click on the 'Clone or download' button and say the url to the zip? My browser does not show it.
_abc_Raazeer: you need to slow down the clock xtal and that requires recompiling and other compromises. Why do you want that?
Nebukadnezabut why don’t you git clone…?
Raazeer_abc_, why would I want to slow down the clock? What on the ramps needs a clock?
_abc_I do not have a recent version of git installed
_abc_Raazeer: the cpu needs a minimum voltage for certain clock speeds.
_abc_Raazeer: 16MHz is usually not available on atmega at 3.3V
Nebukadnezaancient versions will also work …
_abc_Nebukadneza: no, I get errors. This is a really old machine.
_abc_I got the zip. The magic is url + /zipball/master ; your link also works
Raazeer_abc_, isn't the due natively 3.3V? That's the whole reason why Mega shields usually can't be used on a due without some fiddling afaik
_abc_My version gets the release version too into the Nebukadneza so more useful
imrclywhy do you need 3.3v?
_abc_Raazeer: many clones use out of spec crystals and don't care. With a 3d printer you probably care.
imrclyoh read the scroll
Raazeer_abc_, I'm not sure I follow, what's the crystal got to do with the ramps board?
imrclyit is the mosfets that need to change mostly
imrclythere is a ramps for due but it catches fire and no one wants to manufacture the update
Nebukadnezai wonder why …
imrclythe dev we fuck this planet i don't want to live here anymore and gave up
Nebukadnezato convince the chinese … ?
Raazeerimrcly, what I'd really like to know is what would have to be changed on a standard ramps 1.4 to make the due chooch on it.
imrclythe mosfets on ramps probably wont trigger at 3.3v
Raazeerif that's the only thing, that would be easy.
_abc_No, it is not easy.
_abc_Everything needs to be changed. Why do you need 3.3v?
Raazeer_abc_, because the due is 3.3 native.
Raazeerwhereas the mega what the ramps was designed for is 5v native.
imrclyhere is an updated ramps board
imrclyif you can find one for sale
Lizards|Workramps on a breadboard/trampy ramps
Nebukadneza(or make one)
Nebukadneza(i’d buy one XD)
Raazeerimrcly, i'm aware of the ramps-fd, or "Ramps Fire Department" as it has been called on the net.
imrclyit lists most of the things that have to be changed or updated to work
Raazeerimrcly, mostly I'm trying to understand the architecture of the ramps board better, and figuring out if one could make it work with a due is a good way to do that.
Raazeerhm, aux level translation would be a real issue, but if you get by without lcd and sd card, and get some mosfet that will work at 3.3 V, it should be doable.
imrclyRaazeer: the 1.2 is the fire risk not the 2.0a
imrclythe default on for heaters if i remember correctly
Raazeerimrcly, you do remember correctly. Which is a DOOZY of a design fail.
imrclysd card with work at 3.3v but if an lcd logic needs 5v
_abc_That circuit looks like the daddy of all hacks to me. Buffers on every io, double the parts count of the original device.
AmeisenI'm sure you will all appreciate my lovely, professional artwork
Ameisenthat's what my current X carriage looks like (mostly stock)
Ameisenthe carriage plate itself is metal, I'm guessing aluminum.
_abc_Ameisen: perspective projection --
Ameisen_abc_ - you draw with proper perspective in Photoshop with a mouse and a shaky hand.
AmeisenI want to redesign the carriage assembly itself
AmeisenHowever, given its layout, I'm unsure if any printable materials can handle it
Ameisengiven the heating block's (and thus the break to the cooling block) proximity
_abc_You do WHAT in photoshop?! Hah. I thought you people are all at least medium level accomplished draftsmen. In paint even!
AmeisenI'm a software engineer.
Ameisenthus why I'm writing a firmware.
Ameisenwell, two firmwares
Ameisenlots of shared code
_abc_Ameisen: in gimp you click on a place on the pic, press shift, then click where the line is to go.
ndnihilreinventing wheels since 2016
_abc_hehe ndnihil
AmeisenI'm confusde
_abc_So this tronxy business is really cheap and there's a reason for that. As usual.
Ameisenso, I try very hard to not let that thought-terminating cliche bug me
Ameisenbut it does.
Ameisenvery much so
_abc_Completely incompatible software, board, pirated repetier, etc
AmeisenI have absolutely no idea if he's trying to be hurtful or what
Ameisenor if he's joking
Ameisenliterally, no idea
_abc_Don't worry about me, I'm bitter for other reasons, plus wasted like 6 hours on a crap printer
Ameisenmy current thinking is that I could print the backplane in PLA or PETG or such
_abc_Not mine, I will not touch such a crap thing.
Ameisenand mount a small piece of aluminum off of it to hold the heating block/cooling block assembly
Ameisensince that needs to be more heat resistant
Ameisenpossibly with a polycarbonate heat break between them?
AmeisenDunno if polycarbonate _itself_ can handle the heat
Ameisenbut I'm guessing not
Ameisensince it has a glass transition temp of 147C
Ameisenand acrylic at 160C
Ameisennot sure what would work great as a heat break. Maybe a strip of rubber or something.
AmeisenEither way, looking for some advice.
Ameiseneven from ndnihil if he can avoid being snarky
gthxglass is should be 200x214mm for standard PCB heated bed
Ameiseneuz100__ - actually
Ameisenglass'd work as the heatbreak between the carriage and mount
Ameisendidn't consider it
Ameiseneven construction paper would work, actually
euz100__what are we talking about?
AmeisenI have to head out but I will read any responses
imrclycatching on fire
Ameisenthat is my poor drawing of my current X carriage
Ameisengrey plate is aluminum
AmeisenI want to redesign it
euz100__what sort of heat are we talking about?
Ameisennormal heat
Ameisenwhat you'd expect from an extruder/etc
AmeisenThe backplane and such I'd prefer to print - easier to prototype/actually make then
AmeisenI'm guessing the mounting point for the cooling block/heating block assembly needs to be metal or glass as it needs to actually not melt.
Ameisenbut, as said, will bbl
euz100__Al is great because it will dissipate the fuck out of it
Ameisenhave an appt
AmeisenAl will dissipate it right ot the plastic backplane!
Ameisenthe heating block is not mounted directly to the Aluminum
Ameisenrather, it goes through the metal heatbreak ( :| ) to the cooling block
Ameisen_that_ is screwed to the mount, but with no TIM.
AmeisenIt has a Heatsink/Fan that has a thermal pad
AmeisenLooking for design ideas/thoughts
AmeisenPreferably ones that aren't "why are you reinventing the wheel" or thereabouts
AmeisenMy medication hasn't kicked in yet so I'm moody and grouchy
Ameisenand been getting migraines a lot for some reason
bill2or3Ameisen: if your insulator/heatsink is working, then you can mount it to plastic just fine.
bill2or3if it's getting warm enough to melt plastic, you're it's not going to extrude very well, anyway.
euz100__yeah, ABS ftw
Ameisenno ABS preferably
euz100__unless you designing some extremely compact printer
AmeisenI hate printing it
euz100__I prefer printing ABS, than sourcing and drilling Al with any precision :)
bill2or3Ameisen: why do you want to redesign that carriage, is there something wrong with it now?
Ameisenbill2or3 - I want to mount things differently, and I want to raise the center of gravity of the carriage.
AmeisenThe way it's set up, it's basically hanging, but off one side, which is adding some torsion to the rail system
euz100__I totally going to drop this wooden frame in favor of a p3 steel frame so I can print ABS with ease
Ameisenthere's also no counterweight, so I wanted to tinker with the motor being on the back as well.
Ameisenbasically, raising it to the rails, and centering the assembly around the rails
bill2or3some, but it's not torsion-force in the direction that the carriage moves.
Ameisenalso, easier to calculate which rail is acting as the drive rail with a raised center of gravity
AmeisenI literally have no idea atm
Ameisenthe forces on both rails are sorta equal because of how it's laid out
Ameisenwhich is... weird.
Ameisenand hard to align
euz100__yes Ameisen, I wanted to get rid of that problem too, but I wonder if it adds new problems
AmeisenI'm sure it does
Ameisenbut the newer problems are probably easier to solve.
euz100__specially when printing ABS
Ameisenwhat's the issue you'd perceive with ABS?
euz100__when it starts vibrating
bill2or3I'd try not to get hung up on solving perceived problems (that aren't practical problems).
euz100__tripping on the layer below
euz100__though maybe it would be less of a problem if you had an extruder with additional thermal mass
euz100__bill2or3, and where's the fun in that?
bill2or3euz100__: printing, instead of taking apart working machines?
euz100__I want to find a way to print ABS on a cold bed
tralamazzacan you use petg instead?
euz100__I like ABS
euz100__it feels manly
Ameiseneuz100__ - why would it vibrate?
Ameisenor at least vibrate more than it does now
AmeisenIIRC, PETG isn't a proper replacement for ABS for temperature-sensitive stuff
AmeisenPETG = 80C, ABS = 105C, PLA = 65C glass transition
euz100__I'm saying that when you center its gravity in between the smooth rods, the tolerance for vibrating will be much reduced
AmeisenI don't want it in between, just higher than it is
bill2or3perhaps your answer is just "use thicker rods"
Ameisenright now it's low enough that it torsions the rods, and actually makes vibrations worse
Ameisenalso wastes space
Ameisenit's basically dangling, but poorly
euz100__you want reduce torsion on the upper rod, no?
bill2or3what size rods are they?
AmeisenI'd rather raise the center of gravity to the level of the lower rod.
Ameisenthat way it's better aligned
bill2or3I'd upgrade those, before doing any big redesigns.
Ameisenand also _center_ the center of gravity under the rods rather than on one side of them
euz100__I would much rather use 10mm rods, but I'm afraid of editing the p3 steel laser cuts
jammiso, what would you use for generating a 3D model if your data was in a format where you have the xy position, z start and z depth of an object?
jammilike, in a xy grid
jammiwith the z positions
_abc_Anyone into printing VERY small stuff? Like a 5cm^3 3d printer?
jammiso that you basically have xyz1 and xyz2 available
euz100jammi, openscad maybe?
bill2or3jammi: I think openscad will create a surface mesh based on a list of coordinate.
euz100yeah, might be slow though
jammispeed doesn't matter that much
jammithe probing will take longer
euz100heh, you don't know openscad slow until you have met openscad slow
jammifigured out a way to probe polymer clay models on hard surfaces
euz100a library for 1 threaded rod generated a 50mb stl file
bill2or3uh. I just imagine the threads.
jammieuz100: the model of the yellow part of this generated a 600MB stl file
bill2or3what'd you have $fn set to?
jammiall those vent holes have a fillet, and I think that's what did it
euz100looks good jammi
jammiplus the embossed text
euz100not easy replicating that in openscad
jammididn't print all that well
jammisome banding and such
euz100don't remember anymore, bill2or3
bill2or3euz100: I'm guessing it was set to "lots".
imrclyso i am using for my power supply it is cutting out when i heat my bed i am not sure if it is overheating and needs more venting or another fan or if i am drawing more current that 21 amps
jammianyhow, this is the polymer clay thing I'll be able to scan in place, including the clay depth
jammican't really use software to sculpt/model ergonomy things like that, since they require like a zillion small analog adjustments until they're just right
bill2or3imrcly: bed shouldn't be drawing enough to do that, unless you're using a 12v bed @ 24v.
jammiplus the surface it mates is a compound curve
imrclyi am
jammijust about as complex as the outer side of the green clay
bill2or3imrcly: have you set the max duty cycle on the bed heater to be %25?
euz100that's mean, by trackball died the other day, and now I'm restricted to touchpad
euz100which I hate
imrclyno but i can do that
jammieuz100: get a new trackball?
bill2or3imrcly: I'd start there.
euz100they're very rare in Brazil
bill2or3imrcly: the way it is now, does it heat up in like 30 seconds?
jammithis elecom huge is pretty nice per se, it's just not meant for huge hands (like mine)
bill2or3or maybe the PSU gives out first...
jammihence, the need to remodel the human interface of it
jammieuz100: I ordered mine from japan
imrclyno it still takes a while but not nearly as long as it did at 12v
jammiand yes, >100€
merkur2k_a 12v bed hooked to 24v power will try to draw 4x the current that it did at 12v
euz100jammi, wtf generated a 600mb stl anyways?
jammieuz100: f360
DigitalReaperimrcly, doubling the voltage also doubles the current draw for a 4x increase in power
jammitook like a minute or two to generate and about as long to read it in in slic3r
euz100what site? it's not always simple ordering from japan
imrclyi replaced the heater in my hotend but didn't think about the bed
jammiand maybe 10 minutes to slice, but printed ok
merkur2k_4x current draw, not 2x :)
jammieuz100: ebay iirc
DigitalReaperI = V/R
jammieuz100: or could've been amazon. either of those
DigitalReaperit draws 4x the power, because P=VI and you're doubling both V and I
euz100it's exponential!
merkur2k_hmm correct, i am still half asleep heh
imrclymakes sense i rushed into switching from 12 to 24 because my 12v died
imrclyand all i had was 24v
merkur2k_many of the pcb style heaters can be rewired for 24v
jammieuz100: ebay
DigitalReaperACTION slides a cup of coffee over to merkur2k_ 
euz100imrcly :)
merkur2k_yeah no shit, i should go make more :P
ccecilmerkur2k_, freaking ohm...and his laws
euz100how do I switch out of chinese script?
jammihmm, openscad doesn't seem to support any good 3d formats
jammilike step and such
merkur2k_why would it heh
jammimerkur2k_: for exporting them to cad programs
merkur2k_it is a cad program, why would you want to export from one cad program to another?
euz100jammi, openscad will suck for making those chamfers
jammieuz100: I'm not using them for the chamfers
jammi*using it
jammiI want it for the data I'll probe from the padding I sculpted from clay on my trackball
euz100ah, not the audio case then
jammiimporting the numeric table will be easy enough, but I don't really want to export to stl
jammieuz100: no, the audio case was just about the 600MB stl file
merkur2k_iirc you can set the detail level of the exported stl. "feature size" or some shit
merkur2k_that will have a huge impact on the size of the file
jammiyeah, but it's still gonna suck as a format
jammiit's like the jpeg of 3D formats
merkur2k_it does what it needs to
jammilossy as fuck
jammibill2or3: yeah, I have that open
bill2or3are you probing the model physically, or optically?
bill2or3then I doubt you'll have any problem with the files being too big.
jammiI'll be covering the clay with aluminium foil and use the 3d printer with a needle attachment
jammithe needle will read the surface position and a switch will be pressed when it hits the hard surface
bill2or3jammi: failing that, you could probe the surface, then remove all the clay and probe the base.
DigitalReaperwhy use a switch? both the foil and needle are conductive
jammibill2or3: the needle will press ligtly through the clay, tested that already. there'll be some experimentation regarding the spring tension of the switching and such
jammiDigitalReaper: it presses through the clay as well
jammitwo surfaces in one go
jammione soft, one hard
jammiconductive for the top of the soft and switch for the bottom
jammi(bottom = hard)
DigitalReaperah, clever :)
bill2or3jammi: if you do it in a few passes, you could smooth over the holes in between passes.
bill2or3so deformations in the surface wont affect neighboring readings.
jammiI was thinking something like every 3mm in a grid
jammiso yeah, could repeat with another pass at a different offset
bill2or3then jog it 1.5mm and do it again.
bill2or3yes, that.
imrclyi once created a 5gig stl file from a lidar point cloud
imrclymy computer cried the whole time
jammimine just ran its fans, seems like software like this still isn't multicore savvy
jammiso one of the cores at 100% and the rest normal
imrclyit took 2 days in cloud compare
imrclysingle threaded process
jammimultiprocess and ipc ftw
jammiespecially if you use queuing systems that can scale the ipc to many computers over a network
jammithen you just have the api's listening for tasks on enough processes to saturate each computer and the frontend is a / frontends are lightweight processes that just call their library
jammithings stay responsive and computers cry for the moment they need to work
imrclymine was running a algorithym that was not multiprocessor capable cloud compare is multithreaded
_abc_Marlin/repetier fw question: How come there's no way to 'expedite' queued commands other than hard reset/reconnect from host? Surely this problem was foreseen during design? Especially heater control commands take quite a while to execute from manual ...
_abc_... control on the host since each demands setting temp and waiting to reach it.
ccecilnot all temp commands require waiting for temp to be reached
ccecilM104 doesn't
gthxM109 is the M-code to Wait for hotend to reach target temp. Example M109 S190 and is also blocking, for non-blocking see M104
ccecilthat does ^
_abc_But it is coded so in repetier, I assume it uses M109...
ccecilso...don't use repetier :)
_abc_Whatever. I will have to write some scripts the details are all crazy.
ccecilgoing on 7 years...I have never used that one :)
_abc_ccecil: no choice, it's not my machine
merkur2k_for those that use octoprint, this app is really cool
ccecilmerkur2k_, nice
merkur2k_ive been using a plugin that has a nice mobile friendly ui as well, but this is even better
ccecilmerkur2k_, I have been setting up a raspi touchscreen thing using wolfman's thing
merkur2k_oh yeah?
imrclyi use printoid i like that you can have 2 ip addresses set for server
bill2or3_abc_: if you don't like that the command for "set temp and wait" makes you wait, then don't use a command who'd function includes '...and wait'.
Stumbler_did I find my people? I’ve been looking for an active 3dprinting community for a little while now =D
ndnihilwrong channel
imrclycan we print rocks
Lizards|Workyeah, we're here to talk about politics or uh...
ccecilBleeding edge...but don't ask why the knife is bloody
ndnihilhere we focus on reinventing/ungineering, and plastic dongs
Lizards|Workyeah, weiners
bill2or3Stumbler_: maybe, do you like vague technically correct but practically useless answers to obscure questions?
Lizards|Workwieners btw Smugsmas
Lizards|Workvienna -> wienna
Stumbler_bill2or3 that sounds like a winner
bill2or3Stumbler_: then welcome.
ccecilbill2or3, you give us too much credit..."practically useless" is optimistic
bill2or3well, if they were just "useless", you wouldn't waste a bunch of time confirming it.
Stumbler_so several years ago, my ex stole an ultimaker 2 from me. and I’m just now getting back in the game. I bought an entry level printer, and now I’m looking to build some cool gadgets.
ndnihiloh, and we engage in philosophical discourse regarding the intricacies of why cheap cloned objects should be just as good as well engineered and produced "legitimate" thing
bill2or3Stumbler_: maybe you can see if she had a nicer sister?
merkur2k_yeah i like the dual internal/external config printoid supports, even though i do not expose my printer to the outside heh. i use an app for zoneminder that does the same thing
Stumbler_nah, I traded up. I’m good now =)
Stumbler_I love that I can print over usb from cura now
imrclymerkur2k_: it is nice for snagging a peak at the webcam and oh shit that's bad emergency stop
merkur2k_i think ive got this purge tower script for slic3r working now...
merkur2k_haha yeah
merkur2k_i dont run long print jobs while i am away tho
imrclymonitored fire alarms
ccecilmerkur2k_, if it is a long print job typically I am away :)
ccecilbut...I don't advise that when lives are at stake
merkur2k_your printers like to commit suicide anyway :P
ccecilonly 1...the rest learned that isn't a way to get out of work
imrclyi have that one suicidal one. the other one goes like a champ
ccecilHow suicidal? Like...knocked itself so hard it became a new printer?
imrclylol not that suicidal
durrfimrcly: it just wanted to be in a different orientation
imrclyit read that it could work upsidedown
ccecilin it's did finish it's gcode
durrffinisher gcode
ccecilit did kinda scorpion itself off the shelf
merkur2k_was it you that had one climb up the filament to a spool to? :P
ccecilthat was prusa IIRC
ccecilbut...same thing. I think my result was more fatal
ccecilaluminatus just stretches out the couplers when that happens
ccecilthey are way too heavy to lift
durrfmy printer almost fell once
merkur2k_mine tumbled around in the back of my car during some "spirited" driving once hehe
durrfbut it was my fault and i was trying to get some shit off the bed and i hit it and it slid back and the back leg fell off the table but thankfully i was holding onto it with my other hand
ccecilmerkur2k_, I strap mine down with motorcycle straps when driving
ccecilmostly because I don't want to get hit in the back of the head by 50lbs of Tslot if I get in an accident
merkur2k_all that happened was it busted off my spool mount. it was otherwise still perfectly square!
_abc_For optimal spectacular results place filament spool on ceiling hook, use webcam to document ascending printer (exits frame slowly, smoking)
_abc_I am a rookie but I already managed to test the cable tie which holds the loose spool of filament on it's bolt. It is strong...
_abc_Don't have a proper drum, it's just a few meters of loose.
_abc_Manual control in repetier is super bad. You can dial in 50mm movement and there is nothing you can do to stop it except e-stop.
bill2or3_abc_: that's not repetier, that's the firmware. you give it a command, it does it.
_abc_bill2or3: yes but there should be some arrangement for out of band 'cease motion' imo.
_abc_Or the hmi gui should mimick it by splitting a 50mm move into 50 1mm ones
_abc_Personally I'd vote for serial line 'BREAK' to do this.
ccecilsmoothie has "abort" which empties the buffer and halts...but I am not sure other firmware has that option can configure limit switches
merkur2k_limit switches are ignored during moves on most controllers ;)
ccecilnot endstops...limits
ccecilyou can configure it
bill2or3_abc_: sorry you don't like the way it works, but I've never had a problem with it.
merkur2k_estop = power switch :P
merkur2k_well yeah i am sure smoothie supports it. marlin probably not so much hehe
ccecilmerkur2k_, feature more for CNC stuff but I am sure you can use it on a printer
_abc_bill2or3: emergency things tend to be needed rarely, but when needed, they better be there.
_abc_bill2or3: I also found out the hard way that cutting mains power switch on a 12V 30A supply causes the supply to continue outputting enough power to damage things with motors for several seconds
bill2or3_abc_: what did you do when it happened?
bill2or3yeah, the PSU's will coast for a bit.
_abc_I tried to tap reverse motion from what was going on, tried to cut power, and then estop
_abc_estop in repetier gui
ccecilinternal capacitance
ccecilput the switch on the dc too if you care about that :)
_abc_There is no equivalent way to do it on the lcd+control wheel panel
ccecilbed usually draws it down pretty fast though
_abc_yes the bed and heater were off
_abc_just jog mode
bill2or3many (most?) big-red-button e-stop switches actually have two switches.
_abc_I know. I am a cnc guy among other things.
_abc_Chinese 3d printers are sort of scary. 30A psu and no proper estop on the machine. Ouch.
bill2or3mostly I just don't run my motor current high enough to break anything.
_abc_I will try to rig a 'cut dc now' switch or a cpu reset button.
_abc_It was not going to break but I prefer to let things bend themselves as designed, without my help...
bill2or3yeah, I see that.
bill2or3if I was using screws I'd be more worried, I guess.
_abc_The machine has 2 Z motors on screws.
_abc_And it gets close enough to the top to squish a hand
bill2or3z-isolators will save your bed from screw damage, fwiw.
merkur2k_my psu shuts down very fast
_abc_The 6 pin atmega programming connector on the controller board already has reset and gnd on it.
bill2or3that works, actually.
_abc_Will use a button wired to that. Since all movements are steppers stepping should cease instantly when pressing that
merkur2k_i usually dont want to reset everything, just stop the motors from moving
bill2or3I've used it a time or 3
filadomeanyone here run Cura or Slic3r on Linux?
bill2or3row of three buttons, labeled: "stop, really stop, STOP RIGHT NOW DAMNIT"
_abc_merkur2k_: where would an estop be wired into an anet like board?
_abc_bill2or3: nah, soft touch 'please stop', 1kgf press, really stop now, 5kgf press (panic), fire explosive bolts into mechanism
merkur2k_i dunno, i use smoothieboards heh
djdeloriefiladome: I run slic3r on Fedora
filadomedid you have to build it from src?
merkur2k_thats the only way ive gotten it to work on linux so far
djdelorieI normally do anyway, because I help test the dev version
djdelorieyou can just yum install the last released version though
djdeloriesorry, dnf install. Stupid name changes.
filadomei've been trying to get it working on CentOS
djdelorieare you starting from source, or from the centos src.rpm ?
djdelorieer, fedora src.rpm ?
merkur2k_compiling it is pretty easy
djdeloriemerkur2k_: dependency resolution isn't
merkur2k_the instructions for compiling are good, at least for ubuntu
djdeloriethe problem is, centos is like "really old fedora"
merkur2k_older linux distros are definitely a problem, due to some pretty dumb changes in the way perl works now
filadomei spent a few hours trying to get Cura working on CentOS 6.9
lowridahi'd like to think you probably made it harder on yourself than it needed to be
lowridahnot to sound like a jerk, but someone with some linux experience shouldn't have a problem installing it
djdelorielowridah: I've been using linux since, well, forever. I work for Red Hat. *I* have problems building the latest slic3r on the latest Fedora.
lowridahthe first mistake is using linux oon the desktop
jstevewhite"not to be a jerk"... says mean shit >:) lol
lowridahdjdelorie: yah i know who you are
lowridahi work with some ex rh employees actually
djdelorieI know, but it was a lead-up to the last part of that sentence ;-)
filadomesomeone asked me to help them set up an automated pricing tool like my
filadomemy server runs Windows 7. they're using CentOS 6.9
djdelorielinux has grown to the same complexity as windows, without the huge market share that encourages developers to surmount it
jstevewhiteoh, and you're trying to use slic3r to generate the filament used and time used, eh?
filadomemy 3d part price system is really only working from Windows or if the client calls my API
imrclyfiladome there are plugins to octoprint that do that
TheHexaCubethis looks so cool :D
TheHexaCubeI bet that'd make *awesome* lighting for photography
lowridahi have a handful of 50 watt cobs
lowridahthey're very bright
djdelorieyou could probably write a script to parse the E and G92 codes faster than you could get slic3r working as a script on centos
VanessaETheHexaCube: it would be terrible. 6500K is really cold light. you surrly want something closer to 3000K
VanessaEsur ely*
TheHexaCubenothing white balance can't fix :P
TheHexaCubebut you're right
TheHexaCube6500k indeed sounds cold
TheHexaCubelemme look up what daylight is
VanessaE2700K or so
TheHexaCubeaccording to wikipedia: 6500–7500 K for an overcast sky
VanessaEwell whatever :)
TheHexaCubeI'm too lazy for photography though
TheHexaCubeI'd love to do some experimenting regarding super macros
TheHexaCubebut I'd need stuff I don't wanna afford :P
VanessaEit was my late husband's hobby
TheHexaCubemacrophotography or photography in general?
VanessaEin geeneral
TheHexaCubei see. I personally still think it's one of the nicest hobbies out there because of the endless possibilites
_abc_'film' white balance is 3200K, most 'neutral white' is 4000k now
_abc_3200K is also Tungsten.
jstevewhitethat's crazy talk
VanessaEthat's how he felt. to him the camera was his canvas
TheHexaCubeand I think the reason I stopped shooting pictures is because I didn't find my own style yet
jstevewhitethough digital is a little less finicky about white balance. Easier to correct in post; without cost if you shoot raw to begin with.
_abc_ jstevewhite
_abc_3100-3200K was normal
jstevewhiteoh, yeah, but that's tungsten
_abc_Yes and it's the same color temperature as the sun
jstevewhiteI don't read German hehehe
jstevewhiteno, not even close
_abc_Sorry the equivalent English article is not as good
jstevewhiteSun is ~6700
TheHexaCubejstevewhite: but it's yellow!
cceciljstevewhite, RAW ftw
TheHexaCubeto be honest, I never really shot in RAW
ccecilI do HDR spherical panoramics :)
jstevewhiteI like doing high-mp stitched panos
VanessaEshowof :)
jstevewhitesomeday I'm gonna get 'em printed >:)
TheHexaCubei personally dislike editing images in a way of changing hue, saturation, contrast etc.
TheHexaCubea *little* editing is fine
TheHexaCubebut that's just my personal opinion
_abc_Yeah sorry
cceciljstevewhite, I use a nodal ninja and an old manual zenitar fisheye
ccecilso...stiched, fisheye corrected, hdr :)
jstevewhiteSounds like a party!
TheHexaCubeI kinda am curious about doing some high res images of PCBs and components though, heh
cceciljstevewhite, 32 positions, 96 photos
TheHexaCubelike... REALLY high res :P
Stumbler_has anyone here ever done anything significant with openscad?
jstevewhiteI've got a couple of nice ~170 degree panos of, like, seattle and singapore
jstevewhiteupwards of 200MP
cceciljstevewhite, I take parts from my sphericals and make horizontal/vertical panos
ccecilstill using a t1i but it works
Ameisenwhat's the intent in that design behind _both_ Z sides having a leadscrew and a rod?
jstevewhiteAmeisen: a working printer?
Ameisenwouldn't it make more sense to have a strip or something going across both Z/X housings to make them always level, and then just have either two leadscrews, or one leadscrew and a rod in a cantilever setup?
bill2or3Ameisen: to keep it level. if you tried to drive it from one side, it would bind.
_abc_Ameisen: balancing forces so one side can't get wedged
Ameisenwouldn't making the two housings rigid to one another prevent binding?
_abc_ this this for the cube
jstevewhiteAmeisen: you can certainly rig up cables or belts to keep it parallel, but it's more complex to adjust then
AmeisenI get why there's also rods if you don't directly attach the two housings
Ameisenthough I have found the rods tend to cause some issues
_abc_ Ameisen 4 bars, 2 screws, 2 motors on z
Ameisensince the screw doesn't like staying parallel
bill2or3 Ameisen: no, it would cause binding. if you constrain the leadscrew, any slight bend will cause z-wobble. better to let the screw move in X/Y, than to make it move the X-axis in X/Y.
Ameisen_abc_ - also set up differently, though
_abc_it's the same
Ameisenmuch deeper bed
Ameisenand it's raising the bed
_abc_Ameisen: yes
TheHexaCubeanyone know how that thing is called?
TheHexaCubesome kind of storage
bill2or3TheHexaCube: core memory
Ameisenbill2or3 - binding due to the fact that the screws/housings aren't going to be entirely level/aligned?
cceciljstevewhite, stitched, 6 position...then cropped
Stumbler_looks like a fabric loom XP
jstevewhitevery nice
AmeisenStumbler_ - because it's weaved
Ameisenmagnetic core memory is literally weaved copper wire
ccecilthat is from Farragut...Lake Pend Oreille
bill2or3Ameisen: imagine a rotating screw, now imagine it's bent. it's no longer just rotating in place, but is also tracing a small circle. that lateral movement causes the defect known as z-wobble.
AmeisenI'm not suggesting to bind the two screws together, though
bill2or3Ameisen: so it's better to let the end of the threaded rod move free, than to have the end still, but cause the middle section to move.
Ameisenbut rather just adding an aluminum tube across the two X housings to make them rigid (they're already semi-rigid because of the rods)
bill2or3what are you suggesting, maybe I'm misunderstanding.
cceciljstevewhite, Where is that from?
Ameisenbasically adding a third rigid support across them so they cannot torsion relative to one another
jstevewhiteI haven't uploaded the highest rez version. That one might be 40mp
bill2or3you mean the two X-ends parts?
jstevewhiteccecil: space needle deck hehehe
cceciljstevewhite, I have so many panos I have shot but never edited...
jstevewhite <- Singapore in 2013
Ameisensince there's just two rods, and relatively small ones, it only has one support plane, adding a third support (something rigid like aluminum tube) would make it very difficult to twist/torsion
bill2or3that would make them rigid along X, it may help constrain torsional forces, but not a lot.
Ameisenand should keep the extruder assembly very stable
AmeisenI get torsional forces due to a combination of the sort of odd placement of the extruder (heavy on one side, and very far down) and the fact that the two X housings are very loose
Ameisenso they themselves twist
AmeisenI don't like how the housings were designed
Ameisenneeds another strip of metal on the bottom to prevent the twisting
bill2or3You mean 'very loose', because that the X-rods are not clamped tightly at the ends?
Ameisenbecause the housings themselves are three-walled
Ameisenwhich means that they can twist with very little force
Ameisenand do
bill2or3oh, because they're just bent sheet metal.
Ameisenif they were 4 walled, or preferably 5, they'd be more stable
Ameisenadding a rigid bar across would _also_ likely keep them from twisting since it's more difficult to twist across something that's functionally 10mm thick than something that's 2mm thick
bill2or3or even 3-walled with the corners actually welded.
Ameisenor two rigid bars, one on top and one on bottom
Ameiseneither or
AmeisenI'm just trying to rectify issues I'm having
bill2or3that may help, but ... you know..'s a $400 machine.
AmeisenI should note... I was getting printing artifacts when the screws were free-end. They're not clamped into place, but they presently have a housing around them which keeps them from wobbling as much just due to the movement of the assembly (everything is really loosely put together) which I've found _did_ help print quality
Ameisenand stopped my X carriage from making rattling noises.
bill2or3me looks for pics of those carriages.
Ameisenwell, yeah
Ameisenbut still, can always improve it
Ameiseneven if it's not a good machine
Ameisencan make it into one
bill2or3What kind of artifacts are you getting now?
Ameisenringing, vibrations
Ameisencan also see the bars torsion during prints, which also means the extruder is going to be moving slightly
Ameisenthe entire damned frame/assembly, you can practically see it all move
Ameisenit's just all very loose
bill2or3how much sideways movement do the tops of the z-screws exhibit?
ZX101Well still trying to find local sorce for rods. did find a usabul thredded to make a brase for my curent i3 stop the wobble .. frame can tilt in relation to X/Y
ZX101hello bill2or3
Ameisenbill2or3 - without the bracing around them? About 1"
Ameisenmost of it isn't them being bent, but rather the rest of the housings twisting, which pushes them around
bill2or3Ameisen: that's horrible. are the rods bent, or is it coming from the couplers?
Ameisenthus I feel like the first step is to limit/eliminate the torsion of the X carriage, which eliminates one source of twisting
ZX101is it like a m6 threded rod?
Ameisenit is, but it's quite straight
Ameisenthe flailing isn't the rod's fault
Ameisenit's everything else
ZX101oh those things can wiggle all over the frigen place wont effect Z at all
bill2or3with X/Y holding still, and you home Z, the tops of the z-threaded-rods will move round by about 1" ?
ZX101Z is relitive to the smooth rods
Ameisenbill2or3 - no. Only when something is going on with the X axis
Ameisensince that's when the twisting of the rods twists the housings on the end
bill2or3Ameisen: ok, so it's not the classic Z-wobble
ZX101i3 took wobly as F Z rods into account when they designed it
Ameisenwhich in turn pulls the screws around
Ameisenthere's a few bad design decisions all coming into play
ZX101you got a video of this problem?
AmeisenI don't, because I have those braces on
Ameisenand I don't wanna take em off
Ameisenthey were a pain to get on
ZX101what kinda printer is this
Ameisenwanhao i3 plus clone
Ameisenso, apparently your usual wanhao quality
ZX101acrylic or metgal
ZX101bent or just loose?
bill2or3you could go to bowden, get the motor weight off of the X carriage..
Ameisenthe frame is steel
Ameisennothing's bent though
Ameisenjust... loose
Ameisenand flimsy
ZX101aside from the i3 wobble i've3 never herd of a problem with X
AmeisenI'm actually wondering if I could just print more rigid housings for the X axis on the screw
ZX101and frankly most i3's end up woblening
ZX101i wana see this "problem" before i try formulating an apropreat answer
AmeisenI feel like a chunk of PLA with the screw/rods cut out and space for the bearings/belts/pulley would be more solid than what's there
ZX101some flex is needed and some isnt wanted but tighten the wrong thang and you mess everything else up
ZX101Ameisen tape a pic of the printer pull it into paint point out whereyour problem is.
bill2or3Ameisen: do you happen to have a video that shows this "everything is loose" problem?
ZX101and ... Any one in the US have a set of smooth rods there not using... or know where i can get some without paying an arm and a leg for them comparativly
ZX101howdy ondrejkomarek
Ameisenbill2or3 - no
AmeisenI don't take a lot of videos of anything
ZX101Ameisen if you wana see wierd setup right now my x gantry is installed upside down
AmeisenI am sometimes wishing though that this printer used US measures instead of Metric... seems easier to find US supplies than metric around here
bill2or3it really sounds bad... like worse than even a cheap printer should be. I wonder if there's not some missing fasteners somewhere.
Ameisenvery few stores carry any metric stuff
ZX101Well... we kinda neda know what's happening
AmeisenI'm going to tinker with it a bit more and let you know
AmeisenI need to fix an issue with the bed first
ZX101Well not much you can do for some parts but you can use google to convert mm to imperial
ZX1015/16 is suposedly 8mm
AmeisenYeah, but it's very rare that customary parts match up nicely to metric
Ameisensometimes they do, but not for all sizes
bill2or3ZX101: it's not close enough for smooth rods.
Ameisenbut yeah
ZX101just anything with a thred is going to be diffrent
Ameisen5/16" = 7.9375mm
DigitalReaperif you can't get metric rods, can you get imperial bearings?
ZX101yyya... thats close enough
bill2or3when you manage to find metric, buy extra, after a while you'll collect a stock.
Ameisenyou can get customary versions of basically all of it
AmeisenI don't live in a Commonwealth country, so we don't use Imperial
AmeisenUS Customary Measures came first
Ameisenthen the British standardized Imperial about 30 years later
Ameisenthus why there's differences
ZX101well technickly it's us style mesurements. imperial is slightly diffrent than imperial but uses the same stupid names.
ZX101i need smooth rods for a standerd i3 frame (sadly acrylic) and long enough rods to acomedate a 300mm Y axes
AmeisenUS Gallon != Imperial Gallon. US has different ounces. US doesn't have stone.
DigitalReaperit's about time the US tried (again) to switch to metric and join the civilized world :D
ZX101dam righgt... maby thats why we dont build anything anymore
ZX101we cant find the parts :)
DigitalReaperask NASA, they switched to metric already
ZX101realy i need a sorce for rods
ZX101that wont cost me a fortune in shipping nore take a month to get here
DigitalReapercanada is metric right?
ZX101it's a mix there to. bt only becos there so close
ZX101more metric than the us tho
bill2or3ZX101: where do you live?
ZX101atleast you actuily find a mix of sizes there finding metric here is like finding a for leaf clover
ZX101South carolina
AmeisenI need to drill a few holes in this Y carriage
DigitalReapercan't you order from canada then? not sure how you guys interact but since you share a border...
AmeisenI want to switch to a three-bearing, three-screw alignment setup
Ameisenwhich should also fix my bed issues
ZX101you have no idea how fucked up the customs is from here to there
bill2or3any reasonably sized city should have a metals supermarket store (or similar)
ZX1013 metal shops so far
ZX101only one had hardend rods and it was not metric... and huge ...
AmeisenI like within 40 minutes from Misumi and Hiwin.
ZX101Closest i've found is some zynk coated steel wich might last me 6 months before eather the berrings get totaly fowld or they dig ruts into the rod
Ameisenbill2or3 - what I'm curious about is if I make the two housings attached with two aluminum tubes across... are the two smooth rods actually still necessary?
Ameisenthe two screws obviously are
DigitalReapertry looking on ebay/amazon/etc for MGM12 rails... they're not too expensive and might serve as an alternative
ZX101what frigen housing are you talking about
Ameisensee the metal things on both sides of the X axis?
Ameiseni ahve no idea what to call those
ZX101you mean the gantry
ZX101ok where in the gantry are you flexing
Ameisenthe entire piece
Ameisenit's three walled metal
Ameisenit has no rigidity
ZX101keep in mind a small tick of movement is needed along the berring.
DigitalReaperis it folded sheetmetal with no welds?
bill2or3Ameisen: those are "X-ends"
ZX101ok this is where we need you to make a video of the flex....
Ameisenwell that's not a clever name at all
bill2or3no, no it's not.
bill2or3(that's a feature(
DigitalReaperif there's an unwelded seam maybe you should close it up with something... bolt an L bracket across it or something
TheHexaCubeoh boy I love seeing cheap ICs \o/
ZX101no those thing are held together with screws
TheHexaCubechina for the win
ZX101a bit like a wood cut kit
ZX101now when you say flexing are you refering to X tilting one side or the other?
ZX101like it going uneven
ZX101i mean there suposed to have some flex in them or the first time you snag a part you'll rip your hotend apart
ZX101From this picture it looks like the gantry is held in place with a linear block or metal lm8 holder only one ... on each side
ZX101lead screw just setup as normel
ZX101so ya from what i see posibe flexpoints small tilt under presure if pulled pushed. normle in mostg setups. shouldnt be too loose tho. and ofcorse with only 1 berring on eather end it's probly prone to X falling out of level with Y should be able to realighn it anywith if the leadscrew is capped properly by just crashing it into the top
ZX101cant see how it's done the top to good tho...
ndnihilthat was a rough read
durrfhow do you know if you are going to die is there a website you can check or something i dont wanna be surprised by my death!!!
imrclyhi TheRockdurrf
durrfhes inspiring
ndnihilyou spelled 'stupid' incorrectly
Snert_stooopid ?
durrfthats not how i spell inspiring
Tomindurrf: well, I know that there is this site:
durrfits not gonna do shit
durrfjust wait for those big assed linear collidres to come online
durrfthe problem with circles is that they are too round you see, the electrons spend energy turning!
cstcyranyone have any idea how the limit switches work on a cetus
cstcyrtrying to help a friend who's printer is failing to stop when returning to home
tralamazzafailing how?
tralamazzai've a cetus mk2
cstcyrone of the axis is going to home but the stepper is continuing to drive I think because the limit switch isn't engaging
cstcyrvery little information online for me to look at to help him
cstcyrand I don't have the printer in front of me
tralamazzahe has the 1st version?
cstcyrblah, tech support for printers now
cstcyrjust bought it new so I'm assuming
tralamazzamk2 doesnt use limit switches, i relies on back emf
cstcyroh interesting
cstcyris that pretty reliable
tralamazzaso far yes
cstcyrhmm, so maybe a driver problem
tralamazzait's my favorite printer basically
tralamazzai assume he has the latest firmware
cstcyryeah I think so
tralamazzaask him to push the motor with his hand
tralamazzagenerate even more back emf
tralamazzawhile it's homing ofc
tralamazzahoming is done by long pressing the front switch
lowridahcetus has no endstops?
lowridahi'll bet they crash a lot more than they figured they would
lowridahit looks like a toy
lowridahcompared to real 3d printers?
tralamazzait's super rigid
tralamazzaso far it's great
tralamazzafor pla and petg at least
lowridahno heated bed is a hard no for me
tralamazzait's a pla/petg machine
lowridahotherwise it does look netish
tralamazzaboth print perfectly
lowridahwhen you're doing a 12h print you want a bit more assurances of adhesion
tralamazzai'll try a long print and report
lowridahymmv of course
tralamazzamy longest was 2h30m
tralamazzaon petg
Stumbler_Is there a good way to prevent unsupervised prints from turning to spaghetti yet?
lowridahno and it would cost too much to make one
lowridahi'll sell you an openCV camera and you can think up the logic to detect every corner case of failure mode for it though
abyxhow hard is it to stop a print mid-way through and restart later?
Lizards|Workabyx: if you're well calibrated and you don't lose any steps and you can return to an absolute position primed at temp and ready to print? it's definitely possible
abyxsounds pretty nontrivial
abyxreason i ask is for filament changes (either running out mid-print or changing colors)
lowridahi do it a lot
tralamazzamost firmwares support that
lowridahpause, move print head up 10mm, pull out filament, put in new, move back down 10 mm, resume
merkur2k_i think the math that makes this just might be wrong lol... G1 E-3 F2244242880
tralamazzaM600 etc
lowridahi do it manually and it's not like it's a lot of effort
Lizards|Worki usually pause, m114 to get position, home, power down... then when i'm ready to resume i heat, prime, move to the m114 positions from before pause, and hit play
cstcyrtralamazza: ok I'm very confused, he got it to work by putting stickers on the stepper
cstcyrI'm a makerbot/ultimaker guy, this makes no sense to me
gthx => Homing Calibration| Cetus 3D => 1 IRC mentions
tralamazzastickers? where?
cstcyrI guess it just adds a bit of a shim
cstcyrso it doesn't "fall of the end" of the linear rail
tralamazzayeah i think it's just for the spacing
tralamazzamine didn't require that
cstcyrwell thanks anyway for the hints
tralamazzanp, thanks for posting the video
Nooblet101or maybe the little bit of compression doesnt kick the motor back a whole step? thats a weird fix for an odd answer to endstops
crankymy printer is never getting delivered
cranky11/25/17 11:28pm depature scan
crankythat's the last status but it says schedule friday 12/1/17 by end of day
crankyno update that it's on the truck or at a facility
crankyI'm not doing well with UPS this week
DigitalReaperat least your tracking number works... still waiting for my A2 to actually exist on a plane/truck somewhere
crankywhen did your supposedly ship
crankyI also have a delivery of bubble wrap that seems to have crashed and burned earlier this week
DigitalReaper10 days ago
crankyfrom where?
crankyif you say china it'll make sense
crankyif you say from the US, not so much
DigitalReaperyeah, china
DigitalReaperbought it from gearbest, shipping to the UK
crankyhah there's a typo in my address
crankyland instead of lane