HrdwrBoBas you wiiiiiiiiiiissssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
GrantM11235Requires OpenSCAD 2016.xx or newer
zzingI am trying to figure out an issue where I have "ghosting" on the printer. So for example, on an XYZ calibration cube you can see the one edge of the Y being repeated a little as if it were an echo. I have tried tightening the belts, and lowering the acceleration / max instantaneous speed. I haven't noticed any change. It appears mostly on the Y axis direction. Is there anything else I can try?
VanessaEzzing: look up ringing.
VanessaEgenerally, belts being too loose or too tight, or springiness in the system
willmoreGrantM11235, it must as it looks funny on 2015.03-3
willmoreBut, I can guess where it's going..
zzingVanessaE, I thought ringing was across the entire layer. I ended up fixing that as far as I can tell.
zzingWell being that I tightened it this time, I guess the obvious would be to try loosening
DJHenjinno, ringing is resonance due to a direction change, and only lasts a short bit
VanessaEzzing: just guessing. without pics it's hard to tell.
Cyber_AkumaACTION sees his current print is still stringing just as much as all previous attempts
Cyber_AkumaA wise man once said: Fuck it
VanessaECyber_Akuma: turn temperature down a bit?
Cyber_AkumaAny lower and it seems to jam
zzingI will see what I can do about that
DJHenjinCyber_Akuma, retract increse
Cyber_AkumaFuck it, I am going to just finish these prints then install the like 5734635 upgrades I ahve in my backlog
Cyber_AkumaTried that, print failed
DJHenjindon't incrtease it quite so much then
willmoreCyber_Akuma, turn the heat up?
Cyber_AkumaI can try fixing the stringing after I install all these mods/upogrades
willmoreAnd you can decrease the retract speed.
Cyber_AkumaFor now, I need to finish these parts for a friend
DJHenjinyou can use heat to burn the fine wisps off after printing without affecting the print itself
Cyber_AkumaI was hopiong i could at least quickly fix the stringing so they woulden't be a mess
DJHenjinbut if it's bigger strings heat may not work
willmoreGentle application of a sharp knife.
DJHenjinshave your prints
DJHenjinthat's bad
DJHenjinwhat's the setup?
Cyber_AkumaThose ere at 190C, I tried 180C and it failed, at 185 they still string
Cyber_AkumaI also tried printing a better fan shroud, still strings
DJHenjindirect extruder to what hotend?
willmoreOh, yeah, that's insufficient retraction.
Cyber_AkumaRetract is at 0.5mm
DJHenjintry 0.7
Cyber_AkumaI tried 0.6, no difference, I tried 1, it failed
willmoreCyber_Akuma, this is with the MicroSwiss all metal?
Cyber_Akumanot yet, no
willmoreWhat do you have the retract speed at?
willmoreI use 20mm/s
Cyber_AkumaI wanted to print these parts first because my friend needs them
Cyber_AkumaI figured it would take me time to re-tune my printer and get used to the new parts
Cyber_AkumaPlus I am still debating if I should replace the heat block and heater cartridge
Cyber_AkumaDefinitely going to replace the thermistor with a screw-in model
willmoreI don't see why.
willmoreThat seems reasonable.
Cyber_AkumaBecause the heat block is encased in pla at this point
DJHenjinCyber_Akuma, try 0.7mm retracts, at 50mm/s
Cyber_AkumaAnd I am alreeady replacing every OTHER part of the extruder
willmoreI hate the two pin connector they use for the thermistor.
Cyber_AkumaI love that it uses a connector, not a straight wire
Cyber_AkumaI wish the heater was the same
willmoreWell, yes, but the connector sucks.
Cyber_AkumaApparnetly in the plus model of this printer it is on a connector
Cyber_Akumahow so?
willmoreIt's just a two pin 'dupont' connector.
willmoreIt gets jiggled about and the resistance goes up.
willmoreSo, reported temps start to get noise.
willmoreI have to unplug and replug it every few weeks.
Cyber_AkumaI see, I guess that's probably why they changed the connector on the plus model
willmoreA locking connector would be better.
zzingVanessaE, here are some images that should show some of the ghosting and some excess around the corners but not everywhere:
Cyber_Akuma... wait
zzingOn a normal 20mm cube, it comes out perfectly.
Cyber_AkumaThe one for the plus claims it will connect to the normal wanhao too...
Cyber_Akuma.... now i'm confused
Cyber_Akuma <--- They claim this one is the for plus, but that looks like the connector on my normal wanhao
Cyber_Akuma <--- and they claim this will work on a normal wanhao....
DJHenjinyeah, umm, no
sHR00m__well it appears like formfutura is indeed broke or something
sHR00m__at least their website is offline since days =(
DJHenjinit may __work__ but it is not right at all
Cyber_Akuma <---- that doesn't look right
DJHenjinyeah, that's no good
VanessaEzzing: yeah, that's ringing.
DJHenjinI wouldn't trust that for a 5 minute print let alone a several hour one
Cyber_AkumaWonbder if there is some way I can use that second cable on my current one, since the connector looks better IF used with the connector on the supplied cable
sHR00m__zzing, yeah vibrations.
sHR00m__what printer do you use?
VanessaEwhat filament is that, btw?
Cyber_AkumaI can't tell if people are asking me questions or someone else XD
VanessaEzzing: what filament is that, btw?
zzingsHR00m__, it is Wilson 2 (from kit, with a 24V upgrade and duetwifi).
zzingVanessaE, it is a PLA from atomic
sHR00m__I see..
VanessaEzzing: amethyst maybe?
zzingVanessaE, quite
Cyber_AkumaAre there different qualities of heating blocks that would make any difference whatsoever?
zzingI actually think it is hideous
zzingBut I have an adorable orange that can do the same job :p
VanessaEI like it anyway
sHR00m__there is copper and aluminum for example Cyber_Akuma
DJHenjinheating blocks are pretty much all solid aluminum
Cyber_AkumaI meant by manufacturer
sHR00m__for really high temps such as peek alu wont do anymore
DJHenjincopper are more expensive, and less prevalent
VanessaEDJHenjin: except for j-head, brass :)
Cyber_AkumaI doubt i would even find a copper mk10 block
DJHenjinj-head has such a small market share though anymore VanessaE
zzingVanessaE, so have any ideas on how I can fix this? I think I have calibrated the extruder pretty good at least on the plain cube. I am concerned that the bed's linear bearings use zip ties to hold on.
VanessaEyeah :(
NowhereManthere's peek filaments out there?
sHR00m__I was a bit bummed e3d doesnt provide a copper volcno
NowhereManand how high are they printed at?
sHR00m__thats kinda lame
zzingI am also using s3d
Cyber_AkumaThey also cost like $400-500 a roll
VanessaEzzing: you have to find ways to dampen vibrations in your bot.
DJHenjinget rid of the ties first
sHR00m__or possibly tighten belts/screws
Cyber_AkumaI long for the day Peek is commercially affordable for hobbyists, it kinda kicks the ass of any other type of plastic out there
Cyber_Akuma... and some metals
sHR00m__if the chassis is loose this can lead to ringing
DJHenjinzzing, the zip ties are probably part of your problem
zzingThe way the bed is setup, it is impossible to get rid of the ties
sHR00m__or maybe too aggressive motion settings/too high speeds
NowhereMansooo, 400C and $400+ bucks....that's a non-issue for me then
DJHenjindon't say impossible
Cyber_AkumaYeah, you kinda need a special printer for it
DJHenjinnothing is impossible, just needs a redesign
zzingDJHenjin, I have ordered some laser cut aluminium for the bed to replace this wooden thing it came with.
sHR00m__Cyber_Akuma, I would love to print it too
sHR00m__but tere are other goodies such as ultem
zzingOn my old printer I had these pillow block things that if I got the holes right I could use if I found ones that were for 10mm rod
Cyber_AkumaDoesn't ultem make peek?
sHR00m__thats PEI
sHR00m__also very strong
gthxPei is polyetherimide, used in sheet form instead of kapton for heated beds. See and is also DO NOT USE WITH WOOD OR BAMBOO FILAMENTS BECAUSE IT STICKS TOO WELL
Cyber_Akumaisn't that very high temps?
Cyber_AkumaI mean, that's what I have on my bed
sHR00m__not that high
jeffdm_homePEI is lower temp than PEEK
Cyber_AkumaIt's pei that's thermal-tape bonded to brocollite glass
jeffdm_homelike 50˚C difference or more
VanessaEbrocollite? :)
Cyber_Akumahowever you spell it
sHR00m__there are different kinds of ultem too, one lower temp and one higher
zzingSo what I am hearing right now is that other than tightening things, there isn't much I can do about this right now until my new bed comes in and I find some pillow blocks.
Cyber_Akumait sure as hell isn't a vegetable :P
sHR00m__iirc the lower one prints at around 300
Cyber_AkumaYeah, but it's still considerably higher than nearly any other plastic most people at home print at
sHR00m__so that should be possible with reasonble effort
Cyber_AkumaMost printers don't even safely go up to 300c
zzingSoemthing like this:
jeffdm_homeI wouldn't try printing these high temp plastics at home
Cyber_Akumazzing: I have to replae some of thise on my printer with plastic versions
Cyber_AkumaBecause they rub against the x-axis belt
Cyber_Akuma... that or take a hacksaw to themn
jeffdm_homeborosilicate glass?
Cyber_AkumaNo, the pillow blocks
VanessaEthat reminds me, I still need to print better X and Y carriages that doen't use zip ties.
Cyber_Akumathat reminds me....
sHR00m__jeffdm_home, certainly not something everyone should try
Cyber_AkumaACTION opens up cura
Cyber_Akumalet's see.......
Cyber_Akumaretraction speed is at 60m
jeffdm_homeI don't know if copper blocks are really necessary for high temp. It's more durable but I didn't damage my aluminum block when I did high temp runs.
Cyber_Akumaerr, mm
NowhereManhow high did you run, jeffdm_home?
sHR00m__e3d claims yes
Cyber_AkumaWould I even be able to find a copper mk10 block?
sHR00m__but Idoubt 300 will be an issue there
Cyber_Akumamost are e6d
sHR00m__400 on the other hand..
zzingWould something like this work? It only attaches to the bed at two points, instead of the four I would normally like
GrantM11235Cyber_Akuma: Have you seen this?
gthx => Kryten&#039;s Head #2 by JediJeremy => 1 IRC mentions
jeffdm_homeNowhereMan: Well I made I made a v6 go 425˚C for PEEK (someone else's machine)
jeffdm_homeI did 350˚C for Ultem for a couple days
Cyber_AkumaGrantM11235: what is it?
NowhereManand no problems/
jeffdm_homeseemed fine
NowhereMangood job!
sHR00m__jeffdm_home, how did it print?
jeffdm_homeUltem 1010
GrantM11235It is a replacement X carriage for the wanhao i3
Cyber_AkumaAh, that's a bit too far for me
Cyber_AkumaBesides, I don't like to replace metal parts with plastic ones if I can help i
jeffdm_homeUltem 9085
Cyber_AkumaNot happy that my fan's shroud is garbage so I am printing a different plastic one
NowhereMannice print jeffdm_home
sHR00m__the latter is really pretty yeah
Cyber_Akumawillmore: You said you use a retract speed of 20mm/s? Seems mine defaulted to 60mm/s. What is your retract distance set to?
GrantM11235I am using it on my Malyan M150. It is designed to use the existing bearing blocks so you don't have to take apart too much
Cyber_AkumaI am replacing those anyway
Cyber_AkumaFrom three metal blocks to two plastic ones
jeffdm_workI was told Ultem is really hard but with proper prep, proper settings and a machine adapted for it it actually went pretty well.
Cyber_AkumaUsing two blocks that have longe rbearings is a bit more stable than three, plus they don't rub against the belt
sHR00m__sounds good
sHR00m__some day.. :)
jeffdm_workIt's an extreme machine though
jeffdm_workI'm working on a new machine from scratch to do it right.
sHR00m__ender no good?
GrantM11235This setup also solves the belt rubbing
jeffdm_workI wouldn't use a sliding bed machine, for starters
Cyber_Akumanot a fan that the i3 design uses a moving bed
jeffdm_workReally needs to be enclosed, insulated and parts carefully isolated from the heat.
Cyber_Akumayou're basically shaking the print
jeffdm_workFor me the problem is that you're disturbing the boundary layer sliding the part through the air
Cyber_AkumaThat as well
Cyber_AkumaAlso a model with a moving bed is harder to enclose
jeffdm_workIf you can keep the part still, there's an insulating "jacket" of air that keeps the heat on the part
Cyber_AkumaUnless the "solution" is to put a lot more framing around the bed and make the bed like a 4th of the pritner's size in the center
zzingHow do you know if belt is not too tight and not too loose?
sHR00m__jeffdm_work, question is also
sHR00m__if 300 degrees is really all that different from 260 or 70
sHR00m__regarding isolating parts etc
zzingFor the thermistor common with e3d it is
sHR00m__thermistor sure
jeffdm_homeStock v6 is good for 300˚C
jeffdm_homeNow if you have the lite6 or a clone "v6" with PTFE touching the heater block then you have a problem
sHR00m__hah sure
jeffdm_homeabove like ~250˚C
jeffdm_homeOn my current high temp machine I am using a PT100 sensor
zzingI love my lite6 :-) It is running with the PT100 from my old machine. I will be moving to a titan aero eventually once I upgrade the thing.
jeffdm_homesupposed to be good for 400˚C
zzingFun story: my table from IKEA is far from rigid, moves around quite easily. This could probably cause my printers some trouble I bet.
zzingI swear the screws holding onto the extrusion through the plastic are slightly loose every day a little.
NowhereManif it moves it likely is
GrantM11235Plus, the plastic can squish over time. I think it is called "creep"
zzingI best print off another set of parts in case I need them
Cyber_AkumaAH AH HA HA HA HA HA! The new cooler works So much better!
Cyber_AkumaHa ha ha ha ha shoot me
zzingCyber_Akuma, what is better?
mozzarellawhat are you printing
zzingThose supposedly super quiet fans that prusa is using from Austria - are those available in common sizes we use on printers?
natewalckThe Noctua fans?
zzingI have trouble finding them in anything but meant for computers
zzingBecause my machine is also 24V
zzingand I wonder if they do blowers
tjb1had my retract restart at .2 instead of -.2 :(
tjb1blobs everywhere
tjb13 hours into 8 hour print
mozzarellaare you printing blobs?
Mikeeethat'd be a good thing
Mikeeeif he got blobs, but thats what he was printing anyway
tjb1parts for d bot
Cyber_Akumamozzarella: Riser pins for a part
Mikeeetjb1 picture?
Mikeeewho uses dropbox for pictures?
Mikeeeimgur man
tjb1not putting that garbage on my phone
VanessaEdude, it's a website
VanessaEthere's nothing to put on your phone.
Mikeeealso what do you mean by "blobs"
Mikeeei see no blobs
tjb1or I can just take the picture, go to my computer and share the link
Mikeeeperhaps a lot of rough surface
VanessaEMikeee: corners.
tjb1look at the corners
Mikeeeoh so the blob was at the beginning
Mikeeenot after 3 hours
VanessaEthe rest doesn't look so bad btw
tjb1look at the other corner
tjb1its random start point
DJHenjinsand those down after the fact
tjb1I had to turn humidifier on so I can stop shocking everything
tjb1already had this print going once
tjb1touched printer...boom dead
Mikeeethats a grounding issue
Mikeeeyou need to fix it
Mikeeeno amount of static should mess up a print just from touching the frame
willmore Cyber_Akuma 0.5mm, IIRC.
Mikeeecheck your grounding cable on the chassis, it may have come loose
tjb1grounding cable on the chassis? lol
tjb1cant check what isnt there
Mikeeewell theres the issue
Mikeeeunless you have a plastic chassis of course
tjb1I have that tool from kickstarter
tjb1easy cleanup
Mikeeethe chassis should be grounded, ideally to PSU negative and earth ground.
Mikeeei have a similar tool, they make light work of cleanup
crunchrefurbished penis pumps
crunchwrong window
Cyber_AkumaSuuuure it was
DJHenjinno it wasn't, and you know it
VanessaEwell now we know what he'll be making if he gets out of filament.
MikeeeSwedish-made penis enlarger pump
Cyber_AkumaVanessaE: or where his failed plastic goes
VanessaEnow now.
crunchheh that was easy
crunchso i bring life to the room
DJHenjinMikeee, AP fan?
VanessaEcrunch: but of course/.
DJHenjinaustin powers
Cyber_AkumaAbility Points
Mikeeenot enough to shorten it to AP, thats for sure
DJHenjinswedish made penis enlarger pump is a direct reference to austin powers
crunchthere is big money in adult toys , my long time friend takess home 8 figures yearly importing and branding them
MikeeeDJHenjin yes it is
crunchdoc johnsons
genebHey man. how goes/
crunchoooo u know ....... :)
VanessaEhey geneb
genebHi VanessaE
DJHenjinhey geneb
genebI need to order more of that sweet, sweet cra^H^H^Hfilament from you soon.
genebACTION waves
crunchreally dissapointed in. him
VanessaEcrunch: see /msg
DJHenjinwell sorry your shipping iss too pricey crunch, I tried
crunchsend message again
VanessaEDJHenjin: free is too pricey? O_o
DJHenjinhe doesn't ship free to canada last I checked
genebWhat she said!
zzingI get that stuff shipped into detroit and bring it over to windsor
VanessaEI forgot you're up there in canuckistan :)
DJHenjinhey, that is canuckistan to you yanks
DJHenjiner, ignore me,
VanessaEfai :)
genebNow you have to apologize for living where shipping is too expensive. :)
zzingDJHenjin, where aboots are you eh?
crunchmove to usa
DJHenjinzzing, I am to Edmonton
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crunchthis cockhammer
DJHenjinand that's your cue VanessaE
VanessaEtoo late, the server beat me to it.
DJHenjini'd just stay op for now
Valduaresomeone called?
VanessaEI knew I shouldn'ta stood down earlier.
genebsomeone should ddos his irc server. :)
crunchdirect dos promt
crunchms dos
DJHenjinms paint
Spirit532I thought someone was talking to me
DJHenjinoh hi Spirit532 how is progress
Spirit532hacking away at my new camera
Spirit532doing the little quality improvements that FLIR cripple
DJHenjinnot bad!
zzingVanessaE, I have moved the printer over to my super stable workbench to see if it improves. I have hopes :-)
VanessaEgood luck
zzingThank you
zzingIt will be a few weeks I am sure before I am able to do anything about my zip tied linear bearings
DJHenjindon't make me laugh while I have a mouth full of scotch,
Mikeeewhat do you mean by "do anything about"
DJHenjinI don't want to waste this good stuff
VanessaEdamn it, why don't I have a cache of jokes handy
crunchim sure its scotch
DJHenjinif you want to replace my K70RGB, go ahead VanessaE
zzingMikeee, my new carriage plate is coming in that is aluminium. I am going to be able to replace the zip tied linear bearings attached to a plastic plate with pillow blocks that screw into the aluminum directly.
DJHenjinI know for a fact you know what that sucker is worth
zzingDJHenjin, is it at least 20 year old?
VanessaEwell to be fair, DJHenjin .....the K70 kinda sucks. I know, because I have a K70 red :P
DJHenjinI like my red
crunchthe what
VanessaEthe volume control sucks
DJHenjinI actually used the RGB to write a resource monitor on it
Mikeeezzing ah okay so you're replacing the bearing mount in itself. Thats good. I thought you were knocking on zip ties themselves
VanessaEcrunch: Corsair Vengeance K70 mechanical keyboard
VanessaECherry MX-based
Mikeeezip tie ones are perfectly fine, especially if you pot the bearing
crunchthat clicky shit?
DJHenjinleft of the arrow key split is process activity, the arrow key area is per core usage, and the numpad is RAM usage in gig increments
VanessaEthat's Cherry MX blue. mine's MX brown
DJHenjincrunch, the reds don't click
VanessaEthe only noise it makes is from the keys bottoming out against the frame.
crunchshe makes noise when she bottoms out also
DJHenjinVanessaE, do you like my idea of process monitor?
VanessaEleft of the arrow key split?
VanessaE*looks at keys*
DJHenjinso look at your k70, left of the arrow keys,
DJHenjineverything below F12 and left
VanessaEso like, backspace, backslash, enter, shift, ctrl?
DJHenjinF keys are unused ATM
zzingMikeee, this is what I would be replacing:
tjb1Does anyone know what this connector is called -
genebbuckling spring ftw, bitches. :D
zzingIt is possible to move the bearing slightly
DJHenjinincludes backspace, both controls alts, shifts, tab, enter, etc etc
VanessaEDJHenjin: I kinda like that.
tjb1looking for the name of it with the locking key and all
VanessaEbut I think I"d have used the numpad
DJHenjinthe prinscren to pgdown cluster is processor core usage
crunchwhy do i get tired after eating a bunch of meat
DJHenjinand numpad is RAM incremental
VanessaEcrunch: food coma. protein just does that to some peopel.
genebtjb1, here:
DJHenjinVanessaE, /\
Jessaycrunch, if you find out please let me know
VanessaEDJHenjin: I kinda like it
Jessayi woke up this morning skipped breakfast had ribs for lunch
tjb1thanks geneb
genebyou're welcome.
Jessaytook a 20 minute nap shortly after unwillingly
crunchkilled me all day
genebI buy all my crimp connectors from them.
DJHenjini'll have to modify it to work with more or less than 8 cores, but I can send it to you once the mods are done if you would like
tjb1how long is shipping?
genebthey're pretty fast.
VanessaEcrunch: too rare maybe?
DJHenjinI don't have an installer yet so there is a tiny tiny bit of fussing around needed
crunchit was med rare
tjb1and the normal pins will fit into those housings?
Jessayimpossible thats med
crunchlil overdone
VanessaEcrunch: to me, that almost looks rare blue.
cruncho need
crunchno no
crunchlight pink in center
tjb1med rare?
tjb1thats medium around here...
VanessaEjust the lighting then
crunchthe way i cook it preserves the juices very well
gthxPEI is polyetherimide, used in sheet form instead of kapton for heated beds. See and is also DO NOT USE WITH WOOD OR BAMBOO FILAMENTS BECAUSE IT STICKS TOO WELL
sideralacrunch: sits on his steaks
sideralaIt's a sous vide style of cooking
crunchthat was on wood fire
sideralaTacobell directly infused
tjb1thats a steak
Jessayyou can sous vide steak
VanessaEcrunch: wood-fired grill? bet they tasted good.
Jessayyou just finish it off pan sear to have a crust if you do that
crunchit did
crunch$44 worth
Jessaywoot brb print just finished
crunchget what u pay for
crunchno sear marks tfbl
DJHenjinVanessaE, would you be interested in having it?
tjb1thats sous vide and cast iron
DJHenjinalso, does yourkeyboard do RGB
tjb1which I can do anymore thanks to stupid central fire alarm
VanessaEDJHenjin: nah, I've got a monitor on my panel for that. mine's red-only. couldn't get an RGB one at the time.
crunchyes u can
crunchcover it with a container
DJHenjinVanessaE, awe, I was hoping I could get a tester :(
tjb1geneb: you ever find those on amazon?
VanessaE(everywhere I looked, the RGB model was sold out)
VanessaEsowwy :)
DJHenjinit's all good, I will find another
VanessaEI wonder if I could somehow upgrade it to RGB :P
DJHenjinnot easily
VanessaE(the LEDs would be easy enough to source anyway)
DJHenjinyeah, but sourcing the right ones
DJHenjini ain't gonna take mine apart to figure out which you would need
DJHenjinat least not in my current state
VanessaEI've had mine apart multiple times
DJHenjinif you remind me when I am not 3/4 gassed, I can do it
VanessaEthe one good thing about the K70 is that it doesn't shit itself if you spill water on it.
VanessaEyou just have to dry it out
DJHenjinmy volume roller is sticky because I spilled pop on it,
VanessaEmine's busted
DJHenjinhaven't fixed it yet, even though I have 99% IPA
VanessaEhas a huge deadzone
crunchlink to this k70 thing
HrdwrBoBeveryone needs IPA
DJHenjincrunch corsair K70RGB keyboard
VanessaEcrunch: on amazon. corsair vengeance K70
DJHenjinthat will get you it
HrdwrBoBmy wife's macbook keyboard is fucked
DJHenjinfucking google dude
HrdwrBoBa bunch of keys don't work
crunchim on a fucking ipad
HrdwrBoBat work I use a das keyboard
DJHenjinok give me a sec
HrdwrBoBand at home I have a ducky shining green
VanessaEcrunch: ^^
DJHenjinalso crunch
crunchwhat the fuck
retrojuanso I assembled my tarantula i3
VanessaEit's a mechanical, crunch
retrojuanany guides on the wiring and first power up?
VanessaEnot those membrane keys
DJHenjinyeah, not a cheap keyboard, but it is fucking phenominal
Jessayk70 is alright i guess
crunchrich mofos
Jessaytends to be blue keys
VanessaEmine's ..........HAHHAHAHHAHAHA
Jessayerr red keys
Jessayyou can get it on sale for 60~
crunchusing $130 kb
DJHenjinmine has MX cherry red
Jessayyea I prefer blues
Jessayi like the noise!
DJHenjinit comes in blue
VanessaEcrunch: it's called saving up :P
Jessayyea i have both
crunchis it good for typing
DJHenjin very good in fact
VanessaEcrunch: how do you think I was able to plunk down $150 this month on filament?
VanessaEcrunch: yes
DJHenjinI can hit 100wpm on this sucker
Jessayall mechanical are repairable
VanessaEcrunch: if a key shits itself. replace the key.
crankyI need to print feet for my printer
Jessaya cheap nice mechanical is AZIO
crankyVanessaE: maybe you need to open a library to make some extra filament money =P
VanessaEcranky: a library for what
crunchmy farts smell like burnt tires and hot roofing tar , what the fuck
crankyVanessaE: I was kidding around, per our conversation earlier about $2.50/ounce
VanessaEcranky: oh derp. I certainly have enough books. Abe would roll over in his grave if I lent any out though :P
crankyif I can NOT reset my printer again, I only have 15mm oleft to print
Jessaywhat the hell
Jessayhow they call that a TD
Jessaywrong channel
crankyJessay: the pats haven't paid the refs yet, the refs are only on payroll for the 4th quarter
crankyyay it bridged, again
crankynow if I can just not reset the printer I'll be good
Jessaywoot print appears flawless
crankyhrmm cura needs some options in the way it builds infill
Ameisenany thoughts on the various issues in that print
VanessaEAmeisen: too hot, for one
crankyit would be nice if when you up the infill density, you could modify if it makes the patter smaller or the internal infill walls thicker
VanessaEway too hot.
Ameisenawww yeah
crankyrather than having internl grid lines every 1/8" , I rather have two walls 1/4" apart
VanessaEand don't use random seams.
Ameisenby 'way too hot'
Ameisenhow hot too hot
jeffdm_homedrop it 5 degrees
crankyI'm printing way too hot now
VanessaElike 15° or so
crankybut I dgaf
jeffdm_homework it
crankyprinting PLA at 220C so I can push 120mm/sec
crankyand there's a shitton of retraction in this piece
jeffdm_homeas long as you know what you want
crankyit's got honeycomb holes in the walls
crankyI need to tighten the ball ends and the carriages, this thing would print even better
VanessaEAmeisen: maybe you can convince slic3r devs to implement this:
Ameisenpretty sure half of the slic3r devs hate me
Ameisenand the other half are unaware of me
NowhereManwell, get to work
NowhereManI hate people who do things halfway
NowhereManACTION grins at Ameisen 
VanessaEAmeisen: if they hate you, you're doing something right.
Ameisenor very, very wrong
NowhereMancant it be both?
AmeisenI might try printing these with Cura _and_ Slic3r
Ameisensee which does better
Ameisenafter dropping temp
Ameisenwhat's causing the blobbing on the top?
Ameisenit should be smooth
VanessaEnot sure yet
AmeisenI think I know why
Ameisenit's top/bottom layers
Ameisensince it tapers at the top
Ameisenit starts getting thicker than the infill
zzingMy left and right Z axes were also a few mm misaligned
VanessaEthen you'er just overextruding
Ameisenprobbable, thbough I calibrated that. hrmm.
DJHenjinVanessaE, did you get watchworld?
DJHenjiner, watchword
Jessaylooks good!
DJHenjincan you set +b on watchword
VanessaEum, no
DJHenjinit is a spammer, would you like screenies?
VanessaElet the server handle it
nyti think duet wifi needs some exponential factor for pressure advance or something
Ameisendoing another single-wall test print
Ameisento make sure it's calibrated right
VanessaEAmeisen: don't rely on it.
VanessaEAmeisen: print a cube. 1 bottom solid, 15-20 top solids, 5-10% infill
Ameisenhow do I calibrate flow from that?
VanessaEand see how the top looks. roll your E steps back 5 at a time, or what have you, until just befoer the point where the top starts to show gaps.
Rob235what does a castle lantern look like
VanessaEthe idea being that all those top solids *on top of sparse infill* will avoid any effects from too much first layer squish, lifting, curling, or elephant's foot.
zzingVanessaE, that is a nice little trick
zzingSo I put a bottle of water on the top of the printer. The edges of the water showed no effect from the movement, but the center had some vibration evident.
zzingI would need to rig up an acceleromter to know more
VanessaEAmeisen: best to make it less of a cube and more of a rectilinear solid :P say 5x5 cm, 1 cm tall.
VanessaEyou want to see what the center of the top looks like -- wwweelll away from the edges, and preferably well away from where the infill starts.
zzingThis is what my printer vibration looks like with my phone:
DJHenjinand how exactly would that help us?
zzingDJHenjin, I haven't quite figured that one out yet. For all I know all printers look like that.
DJHenjinjust show us prints,
DJHenjinwe can figure it out from there
zzingWould a print that is nominally a square with a slot on one side be a way to test different jerk / acceleration settings?
icebalcrunch, read that article i sent you?
skchhi, anyone with experience with blender game engine ?
Cyber_Akumablender is 3d modeling software, not a game engine
skchCyber_Akuma: blender actualy has game engine built-in, so
DJHenjinno, it has game tools, not a proper game engine
DJHenjinYes I am well aware ot that, try compiling it into a playable game
DJHenjinblender has game tools, not a game engine
VanessaEACTION peeks in, sees "blender", and hides
skchblender is great
skchand will be even greater
VanessaEit's what I use for designing models for 3d printing
skchand it is more than enough for my project
VanessaEI occasionally use it for game models, but static stuff only... I don't know shit about its gaming tools, though
skchthen you know alot
skchi discovered blender couple days ago
skchand m loving it
skchbut atm im stuck on this particular problem
VanessaEthis is why I hide :)
skchwith driver
VanessaEI suck at teaching :P
skchdont suck while teaching, maybe ? :D
skchjoke, sorry :D
permafleekhaaa omg i got highlighted by a spammer
permafleekreprap superstar for superbowl
permafleeklmfao whats new folks
skchhi permafleek
VanessaE fkl'hiuwqrgfyipuh9u[rwehu9thu9
VanessaEI can't even type 'hi' without a typo... TWICE ....
permafleeknew project at school, interactive media intensive kiosk for the art dept
permafleekthe third time is the charm hon
permafleeku got dis heheh
permafleektime for pizza, beer and to finish that writing essagy
VanessaEjust fyi, when I do fkmwhv80unh8-92nuhymv0=u2t90u[h80[vbuy94 that's equivalent to me shouting random obscenities :P
VanessaE(but easier to just smash random keys)
DJHenjinlike this?
permafleekvery nice ctrl alt del combo b b b b reaker
DJHenjinfucking ended up logging out my computer somhow
VanessaEFAIL :)
DJHenjinhow about this
DJHenjinACTION is drunk so...
VanessaEtoo repetitive - if it doesn't look like an encryption key, you're doing it wrong ;)
DJHenjina;lsdkjf8dfoas879 09809 8098 jsdiku09 0-ai32 476a5sd4f98asd34 dadf
VanessaEamateur. ;)
DJHenjinfuck off
DJHenjindrunk me don't care
DJHenjinall drunk me wants is good music
VanessaEok, so he's not the "I love you" guy or the "'mere" guy. he's the "I hate you" guy. :)
DJHenjin[commend redacted]
DJHenjintrust me, it wasn't something you would want to hear
VanessaEdude. watch some Gabriel Iglesias.
DJHenjinin fact, if I said it, you would probably ban me
DJHenjin"I embrace my past, do you?"
VanessaEfuck my past.
VanessaE(at least that beyond 14 years ago)
VanessaEACTION wanders off to bed
jammipast is for learning, future is for predictive action
jammipredictive being based on learning, of course, at least if it's going to work
permafleeki have to watch this for class omg
lowrizzlehah, they 3d print a liberator in the cloverfield paradox
macegrlowrizzle: what is this, csi miami?
lowrizzleno, the fantasy 3d printer they used in the movie was obviously based on real tech
lowrizzleit wasn't laughable, you just have to suspend belief to the point where they have multile toolheads doing work at multiple depths
gthx => OSHA - Electrical Shock Safety => 1 IRC mentions
Razaekellowrizzle: is there a clip of this online?
lowrizzleit's a netflix movie they released today, i doubt it other than watching the movie
lowrizzlethe movie wasn't even announced until a few hours ago
Foosball_PatriotACTION saw that commercial
buZzACTION coughs .. 92ecc1dc392274cb56073ca5fe0e7a47ac5c6b5b
SnertSHA256 encrypted flu?
buZzh264 actually
jaggzis abs safe in the microwave? (for a replacement wheel for the turning tray thingy)
Foosball_Patriot<jaggz> is abs safe in the microwave? (for a replacement wheel for the turning tray thingy) <<<--- inquiring minds do want to know
jaggzI'm guessing yes
Foosball_PatriotACTION googles
jaggzfor me, google popped up a weird message that said, "Normally something we find online fits what you're looking for. We did find lots of pages matching your keywords, but we really don't think any of this is useful for you. You still wanna see 'em?"
jaggzare you finding anything?
curiousabs can soak up to 10% of moisture so i guess answer is 'yes, but PP is far better'
Foosball_Patrioti'm seeing lots of people saying "DON'T USE 3D PTRINTING FOR FOOD!!!111"
curiouslike, depends how long u plan to microwave
Foosball_Patriotif no liquid is involved, does it matter?
Foosball_Patriotif it's just a part?
jaggzhey, that 10% absorption thing is really important
curiousFoosball_Patriot: well, you cannot never tell what additives are used for coloring, how well processed plastic was so everyone says that to be on safe side
Foosball_Patriotthey are all talking about using a 3d vessel to hold food you microwave
curiousjaggz: yeah, but it is also 'up to' , like PC/ABS mix is usually absorbing less etc.
Foosball_Patriotwe're talking about a bearing under the glass
Foosball_Patriotor wheel
curiousalso abs can just dry up after heating to 50C
jaggz"I want to microwave my cat. Can I safely use a 3d-printed restraining device? My microwave heats unevenly."
jaggzweird page
jaggz(not a real page. I just wanted to avoid the criminal report)
Foosball_Patriotmy cat is on it's path to become a schroedinger's feline
jaggzcurious, the main point here is that it'll keep absorbing, getting hot, emitting moisture, in cycles.
curiousjaggz: no. it absorbs very slowly
curiousjaggz: and once it dries, it is not porous or something...
jaggzso.. slow cycles
Foosball_Patriotbut will it perform well enough for a microwave, that's what matters
curiousor rather not osmotic
curiouslike f.e. concrete
jaggzor do you think it absorbs so slow that with daily uwave use it won't have time to absorb really?
jaggzI think I should put a test piece in there and not think anymore
Foosball_Patriotdo you use your microwave daily, or weekly?
jaggzACTION looks for cat
curiousalso most ABS blends contain something to stop moisture absorption just because plastic manuf find it really cool additive (it makes processing plastic much cheaper and customers get much better results)
jaggzFoosball_Patriot, that's a very personal question
curiouslike fine particles of silica etc.
jaggzuwave used multiple times a day
curiousjaggz: well, heard of ppl just drying filament in microwave
jaggzsilica stops moisture absorption?
curiousjaggz: and they did it like 'until it stops get hot anymore'
jaggzoooh.. that's a good idea
jaggzI wonder how the steam leaving .. like.. under pressure.. works
curioussilica stops capilary action, it also forms 'impermeable membrane' as it expands ... well, not perfect material but i mention stuff which is not proprietary
jaggzsilica strongly absorbs IR from 1300-800cm-1
jaggzso you can use it to shield from ir spectroscopy
jaggzI'm not finding anything in there on silica included for a membrane or moisture at all
jaggz(nor elsewhere on the web, wrt mixing with abs at least)
jaggzneat stuff
jaggz"Be sure to use 100% infill to minimize internal moisture buildup over time..."
jaggzI'm not sure if that's how it works
jaggz"I just put a part in the microwave for 1 minute; nothing happened."
jaggzomg. "maybe. LOL that made me think of an incident a friend had when microwaves 1st came out. his kids got cat wet by accident and wanted to dry it fast b4 parents got home... yeah parents arrived just in time to see it go poof. must have been on life #9"
mozzarellapoor cat
nopcodehow can i guarantee a certain number of extrusions for wall thickness?
Foosball_Patriotor is it a poor cat?
nopcodeshould i just use a multiple of the extrusion width calculated by the slicer?
nopcodeoh wait that is free extrusion width right? line width will be even higher?
sensillewhat kind of precision can be expected from a belt drive, given the stepper motor can deliver that precision? 10 micron? 100 micron?
Cudadepends a lot on the belt's and other components' slack
sensillei'm unable to find any numbers on that...
sensillegiven i use high-quality components
Cudawhat do you want to build?
sensillea printer similar to the hypercube. but i'm still trying to figure out the physics and limitations
sensilleso i don't put too much efforts into areas with no effect
CudacoreXY, right?
sensillebut it doesn't have to be...
Cudain theory a tight belt drive should be extremely precise. i'd say the frame is more prone to produce slack
Cudayou'll have to know what your priorities are.
sensillenormally now you'd give me three options of which i can choose two :)
sensillespeed, precision, price?
Cudalol, i have two very nice and fast leadscrew assemblies. i kinda want to put them on my a8, butpropably each is worth more than the printer
Cudaa beltless i3 would be cool
Cudaand i want a gus simpson, just because it looks so alien, and can function hanging on the wall
sensillethe point I'm pondering right now is the stepper resolution. with a belt with 2mm pitch, a 20 tooth pulley and 200 steps/rev i'd only get 0.2mm resolution, so i'd have to use microstepping, which doesn't add much to the precision
sensilleso I'm asking myself if it's worth investing into the stepper if the belt can't deliver much more precision
sensilleor the frame
Cudathere are steppers with planetary gears
sensilleyes, that would be the next step. or a pulley with only 12 teeth and a .9deg stepper. that would give me 60 microns with fullsteps or 30 with halfsteps. that would be probably more than the rest of the assembly can deliver
Cudaif speed isnt the priority, go for a worm drive. very high gear ratio, and bonecrushing force
sensillespeed is a priority, but not the maximum speed per se, but the acceleration
pink_vampire3 minuets left for the oven!!
Cudathe acceleration would be very high
Brandanosensille: a 12t pulley will haqve a very narrow bend angle
Brandanosensille: probably simpler to add a reduction stage instead
Brandanobelt driven reduction should not add much backlash, if at all
Cudajustget some harmonic drive servos
Brandanoit would add flexibility, though
sensillewhat is the maximum rpm a typical stepper motor can deliver? most datasheets don't have that numbers, some talk of 1800 rpm, other of 3000
BrandanoI have 16T GT2 pulleys on my machine, and they are very narrow
Brandanoabout 15k, with no apreciable torque left
Brandanoand not with the electronics we use
Brandanothe limit is mostly set by how many pulses per minute we can generate
sensille15k rpm? or microsteps?
Brandano15k rpm
sensilleelectronics is not the problem, that's the only part i'm good with :)
gthx => high speed stepper 15000 RPM => 2 IRC mentions
Brandanonote that he doesn't stop in the same spot
sensillei was thinking about adding a small fpga for a precise pulse generation
curioussensille: at 12V 700rpm is quite average
jaggznew microwave wheel.. hope it doesn't explode
Cudaalternative to steppers, a low KV brushless "pancake" outrunner with an encoder wheel and a worm drive
Brandanoa higher voltage gives you more torque at speed, but we don't operate near the part of the slope that actually makes a difference
curioussensille: if you run them with good drivers, high voltage, short cables - u can get close to 1500, and if it's specialised stepper - 3000
Brandanojaggz: shouldn't explode, might melt, though
Brandanowhat material is it?
Nebukadnezamicrowave wheel?
curiousand it's like... TYPICAL stepper can turn quite quickly if having no load or inertial load , like 1500rpm
jaggzBrandano, haven't printed yet.. I think I'll do abs cuz it's in my printer right now :)
curiousbut if it tries to accelerate or deccelerate - inertia causes skipped steps, and inertia of rotor alone is enough
curiousnot to mention inertia of f.e. print bed, head etc.
Brandanonot exactly food safe
sensille1500 would still yield 300mm/s maximum speed with a 3:1 gear box
BrandanoNebukadneza: small wheel that goes on the thin frame under the rotating plate
Nebukadnezaah, that
Nebukadnezaaren’t they usually 3-pronged?
curiousso well, from my experience - even quite good quality stepper cannot exceed 'magical' bareer of 700rpm
Brandanothey do sell those as spaers, btw
Cudasrsly, concider making an encoder servo form an outrunner. only downside is that it "might" be a little noisy, when the morot revvs up to 20-30K rpm
BrandanoCuda: the ones used in camera gimbals don't use an encoder, AFAIK
curious(and especially if you run it @ 12V)
BrandanoI believe they just use dead reckoning
Brandanoand presume to start from level
curiousand yeah, if one wants high speed, just adding closed loop control is good idea
CudaBrandano, gimbal motors really are closer to steppers, operation-wise. they arent built for high arpm at all
Brandanothey are essentially three phase steppers
Brandanoor pancake motors
curiouslike, motor which would run reliable only @ 700rpm on open loop, can run fine @ 1500rpm when closed loop
Cudapink_vampire, what is that on your pic?
curiousso it means at high speeds they do not stall completely, just probablity of lost step increases beyond applicability of open loop control
Cudai stick to brushless servos using a worm drive ^^
XXCoderdont worm add bunch of backlash
sensilleso, what do you think a good goal in positioning precision would be?
Cudanot if they are tight and/or use anti backlash gears
BrandanoSomething that's been powder-coated and oven cured, i guess
curioussensille: position accuracy depends a lot on reactive forces too
Cudaspeed: check. torque: check. res: insane. and they cant loose steps ever
Brandanoworm drives add a lot of friction
Brandanothat's the main drawback
curioussensille: so like, in 3d printing there are not many reactive forces, but in CNC spindle causes back-pressure
curioussensille: but well, plotting/3d printing with belt drive - you can get 0.01mm accuracy with 'non specialised' parts just fine
BrandanoCNC also doesn't usually move at the same sort of speed
curiousactually over 0.01 other problems start to be issue, like thermal expansion
curious(below 0.01)
Brandanocurious: not sure about that. 16t pulleys on a 2mm pitch gt2 belt gives you 100 steps/mm... but that's at 16x microstepping
curiousand yeah, on practical reprap setup you can get even worse accuracy
curiousi've tried 'scrapping' pcb's with typical reprap, and 0.1mm seems to be practical limit mainly because of reactive forces
sensillei guess the limit is how precisely the nozzle can deliver the size
curiousthis means you have one _central_ belt
curiousand there is play on the bearings
sensillewith a .4mm nozzle, what use is a positioning precision of 0.01mm?
curiousexactly, repraps do not aim for such precission
curiousmost users are happy with 0.1 without much backlash
sensillealso, the nozzle must keep the precision while the speed changes rapidly
sensilleis this even possible with a bowden setup?
curious0.4 nozzle seems to be quite 'practical' limit in diy 3d printing world, like u can get to 0.2 or something but it's just impractical
sensilleimpractical because of printing speed?
curiousactually if you would like to print larger objects like boxes with _higher_ layer heights (so also quicker) you want to use nozzles like 0.8
curiousvarious reasons. precision, pressure of plastic, limit of layer height (the smaller nozzle the smaller layer height), impurities in filament
sensillemy concern is that it's impossible to control the flow of the filament precisely enough at higher speeds
curiousalso just delicate-ness of extrudate, like with 0.2mm nozzle u would need to use layer height of like 0.14mm _maximum_
curiousat such layer height stuff like up-curling, bridges, overhangs - become big problem
Cudai have to digress. it's well ossible to print layers > nozzle diameter :Dv
XXCoder.00001 mm layers :P
curiouslayers larger than nozzle diameter? ... possible - yes... practical... not really
Brandanoif you have a nozzle with a very wide "flat" around the nozzle the height limit is a percentage of that flat area
Cudai have tested up to 0.6*1.4mm extrusion with a 0.4mm nozzle :D
Brandanobut you are not using the precision available and limiting your printing speed
BrandanoCuda: I assume the area around the nozzle would be about 1mm in diameter
Brandanosharrp tip nozzles would caouse all kinds of trouble
curiousCuda: well, quality of the print on ur pic tells it all :)
Cudaof couse!
curiousbut well, my point is smaller nozzles are possible and practical only for specific applications
Cudacurious, that print was an experiment to test the limits. anything over 0.65mm only produced squiggles
curiousand in most cases one wants to print with 0.5mm or even 0.8mm if you print sth like box
jaggzNebukadneza, for the glass-tray plastic ring support wheel thingamabob
curiousand well, direct-drive to a belt seems to be most optimal setup
curiouslike, if you really want to go below 0.1mm u can use 400steps/mm stepper , higher voltage and good drivers
curiousbut for most of cases you actually do not want that
Brandanojaggz: if it fails you could sacrifice a microwave safe food container and cut disks out of it to sandwich
Brandanojaggz: but they do sell those rings cheap online
curiousand are more happy that stepper has high speeds, so ppl use 22t or even 24t pulleys etc.
jaggzBrandano, yeah I should probably just look at my model and buy one :)
curiousso there are less atrtifacts on retractions/travel moves/infill prints faster etc etc.
Brandanojaggz: I mean, from a purely practical point of view, a printed replacement is a false economy there
jaggznot when it's already designed now and I'm printing things!
Brandanocurious: higher voltage has its advantages, but doesnìt directly translate in higher torque for steppers
jaggzsince it's just the 15mm wheel
jaggznot the whole ring
Brandanoand I do use 24V. But mainly for the heated bed
jaggzwhy do they use 24?
Brandanowith the drivers we use, even the very good ones, the stepper torque is controlled by current
Brandanoso if you drive the stepper with 24v at the same current you halve the duty cycle
Brandanoand end up with the same vaoltage
Cudahow about direct emectromagnetic linear drives :3
Brandanojaggz: higher voltage means less curretn for the same wattage
nytyeah assuming the load changes
nytbut the load rmeains the same
nytso with a given load
Brandanoso you can get a higher wattage on the same conductors
nythigher voltage means increased amperage and increased wattage
Brandanonyt: yes, in general, but with stepper drivers we set the amperage
nytyou set a max current
Brandanoso the voltage becomes a function of that
nytit increases voltage to achieve the necessary current
nytyour load isn't changing
Brandanowe already reach the maximum current at 12v
Brandanoincreasing it to 24v won't change things
nytthen it's not going to give you any more voltage
Brandanowell, the "average" voltage will essentially stay the same
Brandanothe duty cycle of the square wave sent to the stepper winding will change
Brandanoas well as the peak voltage to it
Brandanothere is some minor differences in torque, due to the stepper's impedance
Brandanobut too small atht e speeds we use to matter
Brandanoit would make a lot more difference at very high speeds
nytyeah, running at 24v instead of twelve will give you increased transients
nytthere's no reason not to run higher voltage
Brandanoessentially, 24V is a net advantage on the resistive loads from the point of view of wiring
Brandanoand places a lesser load on the mosfets and PCB tracks
Brandanonot so much on the steppers
nytwell if it can reduce duty cycle, it is less load on the steppers
nytbut its trivial
Brandanohmm, dunno. You mean less power dissipated as heat through the resistive properties of the windings
nytyeah disregard last statement, it averages out around the same
nyttesting out some pressure advance changes i made to the dc42 duet firmware
nytlooks good so far
sensilleso, aiming for 0.05mm seems to be a good target, using 20 teeth, a stepper with 400 steps/rev and half steps
BrandanoEssentially, torque is limited by the current limit we set in the drivers, and that in turn is limited by how much heat we can draw away from them
Brandanosensille: I use 16T and they do work fine, so far, on steel core belts
Brandanobut wouldn't go below that teeth count
nyti was using 16t on steel core
nytit was no joy
nytthey eventually broke
nytfrom the the narrow bend around the pulley
nytalso they trasnfer more vibration, fiberglass works way better
BrandanoI expect mine will too
BrandanoI do have more belt...
BrandanoI suspect most of the cheap belt you can buy online has a nylon core, though
nytits just more headache for no real benefit
nyteh i got some nice fg belts
BrandanoI mean, I have black GT2 belts, but they seem way too stretchy to be glass
Cudathose steel wired stretch like springs. much worse steel than guitar strings. get GF belts
nytbeen forever since i changed it
Cudaeasy to find out: nylon ments, GF doesnt
nytwaiting for some parts to get here so I can replace my Y idler with a toothed one
nytget rid of this last bit of artifacts
intranickgonk gonk
feepafter reflashing my cr10 after a failed firmware upgrade left it softbricked, I had to reset it twice before it came up
feephow abnormal is this?
feepit seems to be heating up for a print rn, not sure if it'll work yet but looks good so far
Cudaabnormal enough to comcider re.flashing. sometimes aTmegas are a bit bitchy
feepgonna see if it gets through the print first
feepany way I can set octoprint so that it runs a command when it abnormally loses connection?
feepor finds an abnormal temperature, or some such
Brandanofeep: one thing I found is that sometimes Marlin doesn't clear properly the eeprom content when flashing
Brandanoso generally the first thing I do is load the firmware defaults and store it in eeprom
BrandanoM502 and M500
feepyeah but that shouldn't prevent a boot… right?
feepit just sat there with blue screen
DJHenjinEEPROM is never cleared during flash
Brandanoshould boot fine, but sometimes it just behaves unperdictably
BrandanoDJHenjin: good to know. can cause trouble if the eeprom data format has changed, I guess
feepit was the same version
feepI just added linear advance
Brandanois there a way to explicitly wipe it before flashing?
feepprobably from avrdude somehow
DJHenjinBrandano, I believe there is a wipe EEPROM sketch available
GrantM11235I believe Marlin keeps track of the EEPROM format version to avoid such problems
jammisome of it is cleared
jammifor instance mesh leveling data
DJHenjinjammi, but that is cleared per boot isn't it
jammino, but per flash
Cudaspeaking of firmware, can somebody link me a walkthrough for installing marlin? (i'm still on modem speed)
Cudai have arduino and the current marlin already DLed
BrandanoGrantM11235: this was some time ago, so maybe when it caused me trouble it did not yet do that
GrantM11235Configuring or installing?
Cudaideally one without pictures :D
Cudainstalling. most of the config files is very much self esplanatory
Brandanohmm, just normal arduino sketch upload
Cudait even has a preset one for the a8
Brandanoselect the board type, choose "compile and upload", wait
Cudawhat settings, ect. that's why i'd like simple written instructions.
GrantM11235What board are you using?
Cudaanet 1.0
Cudawhere to put the marlin folder? such things
Brandanothat should be modem friendly
GrantM11235I think you need this
Cudanope! skynet is outdated
BrandanoI believe Cuda did a brain transplant on the printer
Brandanoreplaced the controller with arduino and RAMPS?
Cudanah, like i said, it's the anet 1.0 board
BrandanoI wonder if Anet makes a high enough volume that using an Atmega 1284p is actually a cost saving
Cudano idea. but they might be the best selling 3d printers ever
GrantM11235Anet is the #1 name in cheap shitty acrylic i3s, so probably
intranickthey run well tho
LoneTechthey use the same cheapo controller boards for many printers, so I expect so.
Cudadont diss anet, they pushed low budget printer kits to the critical mass
intranickterrible customer service tho
Brandanobut couldn't they use the 2560?
BrandanoI mean, how much are they saving by crippling the controller more than strictly necessary? Unless they sell an upgrade controllers
Cudait is sufficcient, it seems
Brandanoin that case it would make sense, since people would buy the upgrade and they'd sell more stuff
intranicki broke one of the acrylic pieces on one of them
intranickand i emailed them asking if they could send or sell a replacement
Brandanointranick: the instructions say clearly not to stare too intensely at them
intranickand like 3 months later i finally got a response asking a couple questions, i responded and never heard from them again
Brandanothough it's in chinese
gthxacrylic is a clear, brittle plastic that is easy to laser-cut. A tempting choice for many RepRap builders, but prone to cracking and shattering with age. Avoid use unless you have a lot of experience designing sturdy acrylic structures. and is also unsuitable for beds at ABS temperatures and is also a bad bed for PLA
intranickended up superglueing a penny to it to fix it :D
Cudasuperglue is super effective on acrylic
Brandano*ACRYL, even
Brandanoit's an acrilic resin, effectively
Cudalooks like ass on clear parts, but it does hold
Brandanocan actually look good on clear parts, with care
Brandanoand if the break is clean
Brandanoyou need to cover the area around the break with a good mask, though
Cudaslower CA than superglue tends to be much cleaner
Brandanobecause it will fog
Cudai have some thick, foam safe stuff, that is the bomb
Cudaalso, because superglue is very aggressively curing
Brandanothe penny trick is neat. but it would be even cooler to cut a recess inside the break for the insert, and glue it in with clear acrylic resin
Cudamy gel takes an hour, but produces clear joins with acrylic and PC
GrantM11235It looks like the 1284 is around $4 and the 2560 is around $5
BrandanoGrantM11235: in volume?
GrantM11235For 1000 off digikey, or 10 off aliexpress
Gragagrogogsuperglue is a solvent for PC iirc
Brandanohmm, not sure. Superglue has no solvents, it's a catalitic reaction
Brandanoit might be a solvent in itself, though
Brandanoit's cured by moisture
Brandanosame as some silicone caulkings, though the reaction is different. Too high moisture makes it cure faster, but the joijt is weaker
BrandanoApparently baking sod also works as a kicker
Brandano*baking soda
Cudabecause it contains some water
Brandanoit definitely works as powder to fill gaps
Brandanono, i mean calcium carbonate dissolved in water
Cudabaking soda si sodium bycarbonate
GrantM11235I'll keep that in mind. I have a bunch of old superglue that takes way too long to cure
BrandanoGrantM11235: odd, generally old superglue is just a clear solid lump
Brandanomaybe an ultrasonic mister would work
GrantM11235According to wikipedia, unopened superglue has a shelf life of around a year, then it starts getting gooier and takes longer to cure
Cudasounds about right
Brandanoprobably won't cure to a good bond either
Cudathe little tubes dont go bad quickly, but any bigger bottles will
GrantM11235It also says that once you open it, you only have a month, but I assume that depends on the type of tube or bottle
Cudasounds about right too
Brandanoin practicve, you have at most a week, then the nozzle is useless
Cudait evn depends on the humidity, when you open the bottle
Cudanot if you keep it clean
Brandanoeven if you do
Brandanoand stand the bottle/tube upright
Brandanojust the fact that you draw a tiny amount of air in it is enough to foul it
Cudawhich is less likely with tubes
Cudaand for 20-30 cents, i can dela with that
GrantM11235I have a bunch of 3 gram bottles that are several years old. They are still liquid, but they don't really cure
feepprinter seems to work fine~
Brandanofeep: nah, it's just lulling you into a false sense of confidence, waiting for the best moment to strike
Cudafirmware works, one of the pulleys is coming loose as we speak :D
feepnot entirely convinced that linear advance is working correctly
feepprint seems very uneven between x and y direction
GrantM11235feep: Did you have any luck with the calibration pattern?
GrantM11235When I tried it, the fast section was noticably thinner than the slow section
feepGrantM11235: there was almost no noticeable difference in section thickness
feepbut the ends were squishy~
feepso I sort of eyeballed it
GrantM11235Dang, that must mean there is a problem on my end...
feepit's *probably* a problem on my end.
feepit usually is~
GrantM11235Anyone know why I would have thinner extrusions when printing faster?
fluxumm, ended up at and is there any point in the position of the fan there?! shouldn't it be cooling the heatsink?
jammithe v6 coldend is superfluous in that configuration
jammithe heatbreak is intended to be mounted directly to the extruder block
Cudacan somebody link me a the relevant picture?
Brandanoflux: metal j-head means crappy clone
Brandanoj-heads don't use a metal cold end, they have a PEEK cold end
jammiactually means just aluminium block with standard heat cartridge through one side and nozzle on the side 90° to that
Brandanoand even then there's a ton of sub-standard copies, that generally have 4 michined flues as opposed to 5
Cudai neve runderstood that design choice
jammiyeah, it's pretty stupid and similar to the e3d v6 hotend design
Brandanothe metal cold end is pretty useless if it still uses a PTFE liner
fluxcuda, - maybe you saw it but it was such a trouble to find out that I might just as well paste it ;)
GrantM11235flux: dang, you beat me by about a second
Cudathank you, flux! lol, i feel so crippled with my vintage emergency bandwidth
Brandanoflux: that's an E3D clone attached to an extruder body that doubles as cold end
Brandanoflux: it coulld just skip the "finned" portion of the assembly
sensilleCuda: initially you suspected the frame to be the largest source of error. do you have any experience with a frame like the hypercube evolution, using 3030 extrusions?
jammiit's basically an mk8/9 style extruder, which is designed to take just the hotend directly, similarly to what titan aero copied later, and omitting the barrel heatsink
fluxbrandano, is there another heatsink behind the fan?
Cudanope. but pushing against it a bit would be conclusive
Brandanoflux: the metal body of the extruder
sensilleI'd have to build one first :)
Cuda3030s certainly are stif,f but not all connections may be
fluxI'm doubtful of the effectiveness of that design..
Brandanoflux: it's not terribly effective, and neither is this:
jammithis is the usual type of assembly for extruder/hotend combos like that
Cudapff, i gonna make my own extruder head! with blackjack, hookers and inductive heating
GrantM11235Wait, that assembly is $106.38?!
sensillemaybe it's better to use 2020s and add some diagonals
fluxI would believe a lot more in that design if the bottom part had slits for airflow
CudaLMAOwtf. that (first) thing looks finely made, but the fn placement is just shwonky
fluxbut I suppose conductiveness can be effective as well
BrandanoI wonder if the white section in this one is a ceramic heatbreak:
fluxdirect blowing on ~smooth surfaces less so..
Cudathe MK8 is not the most sensible design. but on the a8 you can just use the head mount as a heat sink
fluxI just got an FLSUN Delta kit (and assembled it by weekend), its extruder/bowden/hotend at least seem decent.
Brandanoflux: is the extruder geared?
fluxno, direct
jammion the mk8 design, the fan/heatsink also cools the motor
BrandanoHmm, why do they keep making ungeared bowdens?
flux(but 1.75 mm filament)
fluxI haven't yet noticed slipping, but the machine does have other problems before I try to pump up speed :)
Brandanoflux: it will work fine until the bowden starts to wear a bit
GrantM11235Are ungeared bowdens bad? I feel self consious
Brandanoeventually they start to lose steps because the motor hasn't got enough torque
fluxbrandano, oh :(. This is my second printer and the first one was with geared non-bowden extruder, so I'm treading new grounds here.
Cudaan oiler supposedly helps a lot. homeopathic amounts of olive oil
fluxI can get a bigger motor ;)
Brandanowell, can always print a geared extruder for it
Brandanoor get a bigger motor. At least the motor is not moving
HrdwrBoBalways bigger.
Brandanoor replace the bowden tubing
fluxhow much do you think I need to print before the effect?
Cudafor PLA an oiler works little wonders too <3
BrandanoI guess 4 or 5 spools
BrandanoBowdens work fine for months, then start giving trouble
fluxbtw, the printer had the worst auto leveling mechanism I can think of: hit the building plate with the head, and a "finely" tuned microswitch activates
Brandanoand generally it's just the PTFE wearing and starting to add too much friction
Cudaergo: have spare tubing
Brandanoor dimension things to work with worn tubing
fluxfortunately tubing is quite easy to change, so I think I'll just go with that first. thanks!
Cudai wonder how well a metal bowden tube would work. like brake cable
Cudamost of them have a teflon liner, but they last for a loong tome
fluxbtw, what should be the tubing ID for 1.75 mm filament?
BrandanoI'd consider printing one of these:
gthx => Kuro&acute;s Compact Extruder for the Diamond Hotend by snipermand => 2 IRC mentions
BrandanoCuda: yes, but brake cables carry a lot more tension than what the friction of the tube could oppose. Also, they always work in tension
GrantM11235flux: 2mm I think
Brandanoand gemerally they are not lined, the outer bowden is a long spring. they can be sheated in PVC on the outside
Cudamost i have ever seen have a non-removable liner. i fix bicycle on a regulas basis.
Cudait's rare to find ones without one
BrandanoI only have very old bycicles :)
Brandanoin any case, the brake cables are only ever pulled through the bowden. I guess there can be some pus-pull system, but the pull side will be the one with the useful load on it
Brandanomore common in aircraft cables
Cudamy roadbike is from '84. my other is a 90s chome plated bmx decked outas a cruiser <3 but i have modern brake cables on both
Brandanopossibly some cargo bike steering wheel arrangement? I imagine you'd use solid pushrods, though
Cudai think PTFE tube will stretch more under the push of the filament
Brandanoratherm the filament bends in a coil, with one side in contact with the bowden wall
GrantM11235Cuda: You convinced me, I am printing an oiler now. If this doesn't make my wildest dreams come true, you owe me 5 cents worth of filament
Cudayou can just stick the fil though an ever so slightly oily sponge :D
BrandanoGrantM11235: and some rubbing alcohol to clean everything up afterwards
Cudado you pritn other plastixs than PLA?
BrandanoI am a bit wary of oiling stuff
CudaPETG doesnt like oil, but PLA even get slightly increased adhesion
BrandanoI expect the oil to affect adhesion, or to build up goop inside the hotend
GrantM11235Only PLA
Cudait wont , Brandano. i always use an oiler with PLA. it's only a trace amount.
Cudathe theory is, that the oil sticks to the metal a tad better than the PLA, and forms a molecularly thin boundary layer that is constantly replenished
Cudai use olive oil, because it doesnt smell, gum up, or go rancid
Cudaand even without oil it catches particles that 'might' cause clogs
BrandanoA cleaning sponge I can understand
Brandanopeanut oil has a higher smoke point than olive oil
Cudai can only recommend to give it a shot
Cudabut i dont have peanut oil
Brandanoit's better for frying stuff in general
BrandanoOlive oil is better used raw
Cudabut not common here. for cooking i use several fats, depending on what i make
Cudapeanut oil
Brandanoit does have a fairly strong flavour, that can overpower the taste of whatever you are frying
Brandanoso olive oil is not commonly used for frying.
Brandanoexcept in some very traditional dishes, like "Carciofi alla giudia", which means "artichokes hebrew style"
Cudalike i said, depends on the dish .. and the sort of olive oil.
Brandanosince they couldn't use lard to cook stuff
Brandanovery traditional Roman dish
Cudafor fried potatoes i use 1/1 aromatic extra vergine olive oil and goose lard
Cudado want!
Brandanothey are relatively simple, essentially artichokes fried head down in olive oil
Cudayea, i see
sensilleCuda2: something like this should already help to get good connections:
Brandanosensille: they look more reasonable than other lpates I have seen used
Brandanoat least they do have some provision to ensure the extrusion is squared up
sensillethey're german!
Brandanowhat should I use to keep a 608 bearing on a T8X2 leadscrew?
durrf2some kind of collar to hold the bearing in place
durrf2theres probably some kind of design that already exists that you can steal if you want
Brandanosomething with grub screws?
BrandanoAFAIK there's no nuts meant to lock
durrf2the ones i have seen just friction fit into a printed part and then the part screws into the frame somewhere
gthx => Prusa i3 Enhanced Lead-Screw Mod by CheScott => 1 IRC mentions
durrf2like this
Brandanoyep, and the leadscrew is free to slide
Brandanothe problem is I don''t want it to slide if I can prevent it
durrf2yes, its retained on the other side by the motor
BrandanoI'd like to remove the load from the motor coupler
BrandanoI can probably elaborate on this one:
gthx => Parametric Shaft Collar - Improved by Printbus => 1 IRC mentions
durrf2that will tighten over the leadscrew
durrf2and it will push it in whatever direction its spinning in
jammiany pro tips regarding painting clear or translucent plastic on the inside?
jammifor an even color effect on the outside
Brandanoprint in vase mode?
Brandanoany infill will create a pattern
Brandanoyou could use the infill for effect, though
jammiBrandano: no, just translucent plastic objects in general
durrf2jammi: maybe look up what people do to headlights
Cuda2tinting transparent/translucent fil with sharpie works like a charm
durrf2because i know people paint the inside of headlights for effect
jammigoogle's basically decided to give me shit results for it, just some lame-ass garbage
pink_vampireCuda2: dual color?
Cuda2nope, transparent petg, manually tintes with a line fo sharpie along the filament
Cuda2other markers dont work as well. shapie ink is crazy concentrated
Cuda2and pure dye
Cuda2jammi , what exactly are you trying to do?
jammiCuda2: change the tint of a tinted translucent case (which won't arrive for a few weeks)
Brandanosensille: that's essentially what I want to do
jammibasically making it opaque in the process
CasteilCuda2: heh, I would've guessed that was filament that transitions colors every few feet (kinda like a lot of yarns do)
Cuda2you could just spray paint the inside
jammifigured just painting the inside should work, but figured whether someone has experience of such
Brandanosensille: though I found better washers to ensure clearance on 608 bearings
Brandanodoor hinge washers
jammiyet I can't really find many good examples of such apart from the apple ibook g3, which had a transparent polycarbonate shell and white paint on the inside
Cuda2i've been thinking about a multicolored sharpie based filament tinter. the color changes sluggish enough, that one could mechanically PWM the color intensity
durrf2jammi i seen it for a few custom acrylic cases and shit
jammithe later models had just opaque white shells, probably much cheaper that way
BrandanoCuda2: difficult to get colors to stick to filament. there's some neat approach with inkjet cartridges
Brandanobut it probably still needs a clearcoat to ensure the color stays in place
jammiCuda2: I've been thinking about that as well
Cuda2sharpie works :D i dont plan on "real" color printing, but some neat custom colored fil
jammibut although sharpies do work, it'd probably be better with some proper dyes
Brandanodoes the color rub off on your fingers at all?
Cuda2to print multicolor with it, you'd have to purge an awful lot of material
jammithe main issue is basically the "lag"
Cuda2as soon as sharpy is dry, it's pure color
Brandanobecause sharpie and inkjet inks are not that terribly different, at least the dye based ones
jammiI've done it on white filament, and it works fine there as well
Cuda2yea, but inkjet ink is water based
jammigives nice opaque colored print results
Brandanothe pigment based ones are very different, and would give a more opaque cover
BrandanoI don't think inkjet is water based
jammiI don't think inkjet stuff is a good idea, too much liquid
Cuda2on opaque fil i always got a toothpast effect. looke kinda cool, though, when one side of the print is lightly tinted
jammithe water would cause a lot of issues
Brandanoit's water soluble, but generally the solvent is alcohol based
jammiand they all have water in it
Cuda2which sharpies dont
jammidye concentrates are often powders
jammiand very, very concentrated
Cuda2i dont know the chemistry of permanent marker inks, but shrpies (or some bombing inks) are the bomb
jammiso I think something that either applies the powder or does it in a solution with something that evaporates quickly should work much better
jammithey're basically mixed into alcohol in felt tip pens
jammiand water in some of them
Cuda2jsut use markers and let them dot for regulate the intensity
Cuda2most viably diy option by far
jammione source is food coloring, available in pharmacies here in at least cmyk
jammiin powder form
Cuda2but that's water soluable again. you want nonpolar stuff
Brandanomarker colors make for neat cromatography demos
Brandanoespecially the black
Brandanotry them both in water and alcohol
Cuda2works best on blackboard chalk
SpeedEvil may interest.
gthx => Making an Azo Dye (and coloring some socks!) | Dyes & Pigments => 1 IRC mentions
Cuda2i have tried quite a few markers i had laying around
jammithe dyes themselves should be pretty much inert once they're encapsulated in plastic
SpeedEvilNot strictly relevant.
jammijust like they are when you apply them with a sharpie
Brandanoa clearcoat would seal them anyway
jammithe reason they don't rub off is because they're inside the extruded plastic, mixed well into it
Brandanojammi: btw, you can soak dye some prints
Brandanoand another neat effect is to tumble them with copper or brass
Cuda2ABS any nylon can be dyed with fabric die
jammiI have some "brass" filament
Brandanothe tumble-coated look is nicer, but fragile
jammibasically some glitter in it, probably. haven't tried it yet and have had it for more than a year
Brandanoadd a few coats of hairspray...
jammiif you have access to an electron gun and a vacuum chamber, you could vapor-coat the plastic in aluminium and then use electrolysis to coat it further with other metals
Brandanoor a more robust clearcoat on top
Brandanoshould work fine on PLA, probably PETG and ABS are too soft
XXCoderI wonder if its possible with pewler also.
XXCoderits bit softer and have lower melt temp
jammiben from applied science did it
Brandanosilver should work too
XXCoderI guess gold would, if can afford lol
Brandanovapour coating could be interesting
Brandanovacuum chamber and a tungsten coil....
Cuda2condutive paint -> electroplating
BrandanoI have seen that done on some SLA prints
BrandanoI mean, the electroplating
SpeedEviljammi: electron gun isn't completely needed - evaporation can work well
Brandanotumbling in graphite and electroplating shoukd work too
jammimaybe finally a use for cf pla as well, if you get it to conduct electricity; I haven't tried although I've used it a fair deal
jammistrength-wise I don't think it's any better than other pla, just has a nice tone to it
Brandanojammi: you can make polishing pads out of it
Brandanoit wears out nozzles
jammiif you use brass nozzles
Brandanowell, it wears out steel nozzles too, but slower
jammishouldn't wear out ss nozzles really, not in their otherwise usable lifetime anyway
jammiand are almost as cheap to replace as brass ones once you're done with them or get them blocked good with something
Cuda2cf-pla should be perfect for impellers, tourbines, and such. bbrittle but super stiff and hard
Brandanojust leave gaps forCF tow inserts
Brandanoand fill with tow and resin
Cuda2how many strands would you have to thread through asimgle impeller?
Brandanoor use it to print the shell, as a sort of disposable mold that is incorporated in the finished part
Cuda2or use cfpla
Brandanonot a lot, just enough to make sure the blade stays attached to the hub. Can't rely on it to keep the shape
BrandanoI mean CFPLA along with traditional composite molding techniques
Cuda2sounds like an awful hassle. but i dont need not cfpla anyways
Brandanowell, saves you a lot of time compared to polishing and waxing the mold
Cuda2true. but iwouldnt trust it to keep high rpm components balanced
Brandanoyou'd have to balance it before use, like any molded part
durrf2print failure :(
durrf2but its the strange shape of the print's fault
durrf2gonna have to reslice :(
durrf2but its gonna have to wait till i get home qqqq
tjb1Guy makes video for useful household prints...doesnt have name or link to prints he shows......
VanessaEtake a screenshot and use google image search
VanessaEit may be able to match it up with a screenshot or rendering on the model website
Valduarepop open fusion360 and model one up yourself as an alterntitive :)
jeffdm_homeMaybe ask that he post links to the items?
sensilleguy takes about a guy making a video and doesn't give a link to it :P
Valduaresensille: its that one video on youtube with the guy who makes videos about useful household prints
Valduarebut he doesnt link to any of the prints it shows… that one :)
Valduareyou know the one
jeffdm_homeand only that one
tjb1VanessaE: already found it but kind of useless video eh
jeffdm_homeOh it turns out there's only one hit on YouTube anyway.
jeffdm_home"Useful household 3D prints"
sensilleunfortunately is has links
jeffdm_homeOK video #3 could do it too.
jeffdm_homeoh they both have links
tjb1yes, which one is it ;)
TuxieThe heck is this
TuxieI was struggling to get my homebrew-y printer set up. It started printing like 3 cm's into the air. Couldn't figure it out. Then I ran the gcode line by line until the header stopped with repetier server, and now it prints perfectly?
durrf2skipped steps while homing?
durrf2if something is binding in the Z (bend threaded rod, unprallel smooth rods) it can cause it to sorta skip while going up or down
durrf2i need to come up with some kind of arm tht i can use to clear my bed in cases like this
Cuda2like an automatic print remover?
durrf2sort of
Cuda2i have a leatherworking knife that pops prints of with very little effort. one sec
durrf2thats just a sharpened hammer
Cuda2if you just position such a blade right, and move the bed back against it, it should work out like a charm
Cuda2that thing is ground liek a straight razor, super thin and sharp. easily slips under even big prints
NebukadnezaCuda2: do you sharpen or use straight razors?
Cuda2yes and no. i use a straight razor on depron, and an electric razor to shave myself
Nebukadnezathen your straight razor is probably not in a good shape :-)
Cuda2it's shiny, and sharp AF
NebukadnezaCuda2: HHT?
Nebukadnezahanging hair test
Nebukadnezayou rip a hair
Nebukadnezahold it above the cutting edge
Nebukadnezaand lower it without pushing/pulling, slowly, no force
Cuda2of course
Cuda2only takes a very light flick
Nebukadnezaa good straight razor will cut it instantly with a bright „pling“ sound
Nebukadnezalike so
gthx => Hanging Hair test => 1 IRC mentions
Cuda2what are you trying to tell me?
Cuda2i cant youtube
Nebukadnezaflick? … no
Nebukadnezathat after cutting depron with a straight razor, it will be to dull to shave with
Nebukadnezayou just lower it
Nebukadnezaif you pull on it, or move the edge, it’ll even cut with a dull razor
Cuda2but it's easy to keep sharp, and holds up longer than disposable blades. 2-3 times as long
Nebukadnezaso it’s not a straight razor
Nebukadnezabut a shavette
Cuda2what are you even on about? :D
Nebukadnezaif it were a real straight razor you’d be abusing it
Nebukadnezathat’d hurt my soul greatly
Nebukadnezabut if its a shavette i don’t care
durrf2errr he was talking about a leather knife at first
Cuda2i dont know the difference, nor do i care. it can cut paper thin sheets off depron, and if it dulls a minute of stropping is enough to get it back in shape
durrf2i been using pliers to pull shit off my bed lately
Cuda2that too :D
GrantM11235I just printed this yesterday, and it is pretty awesome
gthx => Razor blade scraper with cover by jsc => 1 IRC mentions
Cuda2i didnt mean to sound rude, but you completele derailed the convo after asking me about straight razors (i still dont know why you asked that)
Lizards|Workhi frans, what did i miiiiiiss
durrf2i dont even shave
Cuda2i dont have much facial hair either
GrantM11235In OpenSCAD is it possible to find the sum of all the elements in a list?
durrf2i dont remove much of my facial hair
durrf2i have a lot of it, im so lazy
jstevewhiteI haven't shaved my beard since it grew in
jstevewhitemy wife has never seen me without facial hair, except in pictures
bpyeHm, any suggestions for a printed bowden extruder?
gthxairtripper is and is also push fit version: and is also pocket filament reels:
bpyeLizards|Work: Looks like the filament path is fairly unconstrained though no?
jeffdm_workit seems like any extruder will bowden if you put a push to connect fitting into it.
Lizards|Workwhat, are you trying to print flexible filament?
bpyeLizards|Work: Na, but I have had issue with PLA before with my current extruder when it's kinked out of the extruder
Lizards|Workprobably not an extruder issue bruh
jeffdm_workBondtechs are printed
bpyejeffdm_work: Heh, I like the bondtech but I don't love the idea of spending >£100 on the extruder
jeffdm_workBMGs are more affordable but maybe not after your customs agencies hit it with duties
Nebukadnezai need a big fucking leadscrew
bpyeYeah, 20% VAT at the very least if it's coming from the US? a UK reseller sells the BMG for £117
Nebukadnezaplz ship to: …
Nebukadnezafor a diy vise
Nebukadnezalike, 12mm or so?
Lizards|Workyeah, somebody shared their headcold with me and i'm not a fan
zzingIs there a good way to prevent the nozzle from extruding a tear drop shape at the start of a layer? I have noticed sometimes it does that.
Valduarezzing: need the filament with No Tears™ written on the box
zzingI swear this bed is a conspiracy against me. You breath on it and it goes out of level.
ccecil_zzing, it was the one armed man
zzingSome how appropriate
zzingDoes anyone ever have good luck with a wooden carriage?
ccecil_like horse and buggy?
jeffdm_work3d printers used to be made from plywood
VanessaEnever in a million years
bill2or3zzing: use a skirt, to prime the nozzle and stuff.
VanessaEwood's great for tables and chairs, but I'd never make a printer out of it.
zzingbill2or3, I definitely use a skirt. 1 layer, 3 perimters, 14mm from print
FuchikomaWood is cheap enough, grows on trees, doesn't weld for shit though
zzingThe best part about this printer besides the laser cut wood is that the aluminum extrusion uses plastic to hold the parts together.
zzingI am thinking about a fix for that using proper joints misumi sells
FuchikomaMy Makergear i2 (2011 vintage?) has a wood carriage and bed frame
FuchikomaIt's fine
zzingsealed wood?
zzingor does it absorb moisture like jesus makes wine?
FuchikomaJut plywood
bill2or3zzing: so you're getting a little ooze at the start of the first layer?
zzingbill2or3, and on some layer starts along the permiter
zzingI bet plywood is better than mdf
Fuchikomapics from 2013 huh
zzingThat does look interesting
bill2or3zzing: is it the same with a different spool of filament?
zzingI have only been using one filament during this calibration procedure. A crunchy Amethyst PLA
Cuda2zzing, if you printer is an i3, the X axisis what comes out of whack of you breathe on it
TheHexaCubesup nerds
gthxTheHexaCube: 19 hours, 14 minutes, 29 seconds ago <Raazeer> tell TheHexaCube Check out the source code for gthx, it can do a lot of stuff that isn't documented.
zzingIt is certain that style
TheHexaCubeuuuuugh finally something to driiink
zzingThe X is pretty good
Cuda2the two z-drives easily go out of sync. best to use some solid cylinder to adjust them to the exact same height, and then level the bed based on that
zzingOh like say a 123 block?
Cuda2idk what that is. i use a pieceofsteel rod
zzingSomething like this:
zzing"Heat treated above 48 Rockwell "C"; .0001 to .0003 over allowance for nominal lapping. Squareness of all sides is within .0002 per inch. "
zzingThey are precise in size
Cuda2picture only url plz, i only have modem speeds
Cuda2ahh, got it.
TheHexaCubeCuda2: it's a precise steel block with alot of holes in it
TheHexaCubelooks like a swiss cheese
Cuda2you could use anything that wont deform
zzing (30k)
Cuda2like a AA cell
Cuda2o those are neat
zzingI also have two of them so I could do exactly as you suggest. I might do that later.
zzingIts fun trying to level a plane using four points because three would be too wobbly
Cuda2but really, any solid, cylindrical object will to. just tweak both Z drives, so it just fits between the mocing block and the motor mount
zzingOne unfortunate bit is that my wires cannot avoid certain parallel runs for the motors, so I have no real idea if there is any crosstalk.
zzingThank you all, time to run off to the medicine man.
Cuda2nvm that.
Cuda2the crosstalk i mean
Cuda2see you around
zzingCrosstalk never an issue?
Cuda2only for sensor or data lines, but not another motor
zzingIs it just too inefficient at transmission?
Cuda2there may be meassurable crosstalk, but not anywhere near enough to make a motor move a step
zzingGood to know
Cuda2as long as it isnt an unshielded microphone or pickup wire
Cuda2data lines shouldnt be affected wither, only low voltage analog kerboodle
ccecil_you need to be careful with data lines too
ccecil_especially on things like the glcd for instance
Cuda2it certainly wont hurt to twst and shield those
ccecil_the problems compound when you use a board like smoothie which has 3.3v instead of 5
ccecil_I twist all my wires
ccecil_motors I counter twist the pairs
Cuda2looks nicer too
ccecil_thermistors I use shielded and/or twisted pair
ccecil_enstops I always use twisted pair at least...
ccecil_then the big thing is "attempt" to keep all thermistor/endstop wires away from motor/power wires
ccecil_anything with pwm is going to put out noise...but even keeping things a few cm apart helps
Cuda2lol, i know that an old photo flash disturbs the lcd on mine. but then again, it also makes computers reboot, ifthe case it open. :D
Cuda2bloody pocket EMP device
TheHexaCubeccecil_: do you know if you can buy like... metal fabric wire sleeves?
TheHexaCubefor EMI shielding
TheHexaCubeor rather, what the term for that is?
Cuda2shielding sounds right
DigitalReaperAFAIK it's called mesh sleeving
ccecil_engine dress up kits use metal mesh sleeving
ccecil_I am sure you can buy it though
TheHexaCube"related search: penis sleeve"
mpanettawtf did I just walk in to?!
Cuda2google knows what you need :V
Cuda2ACTION wonders if d-reaper is purple and wobbly
mpanettaThey have some nice stuff
TheHexaCubeto be fair I was hoping for cheap aliexpress stuff :P
TheHexaCubebut I'll look around
mpanettaTheHexaCube: When looking for metal items on ali-express don't forget the extra shipping involved.
TheHexaCubehuuuh? D:
mpanettaGenerally, at least for me the price of shipping pushes the cost way above what local "not cheap" would be.
mpanettaTheHexaCube: shipping! can't forget shipping costs :P
TheHexaCubei... i barely ever pay shipping though D:
TheHexaCubelike, for every 100€ I spend I maybe pay 2€ shipping
TheHexaCubeah well anywas, I was just curious
TheHexaCubeI don't have a need for the EMI sleeving
TheHexaCubeit'd probably be easier to buy shielded wire to begin with
mpanettammmm shielded PTFE insulated wire FTW
mpanettaget mil spec shielded off ebay :P
mpanettasexy and cheap heh
rizzitellohello everyone
rizzitellocan i ask you all what Fw your using ?
rizzitelloanyone out there with , teacup, sprinter, aprinter, smoothie or grbl who could answer some questions for me ?
TheHexaCuberizzitello: just as a heads up, usually you'll get answers faster if you ask them directly =)
rizzitellook .then
rizzitelloim working on a some software and im looking to get info from users of the teacup, sprinter, apritner, grbl and smoothie about how some codes are returne by their printers.
rizzitello1. what does M20 Return ?
rizzitello2. when you insert and remove an sd card does the priner tell the connected host..
rizzitello3. More questions about that kind of stuff related to how codes M20-M30 are handled by your firmware.
Gragagrogog_you mean like what the fw prints into console?
rizzitelloim hoping to evalutate the messages
Gragagrogog_i'm pretty sure most print nothing and will just do what the gcode was supposed to do :D, unless you're specifically asking print progress or
Gragagrogog_not sure why that would be relevant...
rizzitelloM20 should return a list of files on the printer, some firmwares put begin file list / end file list . this is being used currently to capture whats between those two . can i use this method on teacup also ?
Gragagrogog_smoothie does put the begin/end messages, i'd guess that's fine since pronterface recognises it
rizzitellodoes it use Being file list and End file list specificly ?
rizzitellothis is the string im currently looking for since they are the same on repetier / marlin
Gragagrogog_"Begin file list" and "End file list"
rizzitellook thats good to know thanks
rizzitellowhat about The M21 / M22 commands these mount and unmount the sd card.. i've m
rizzitellofound on most fw they dont have any reutrn where i can report if mount/umount worked
Gragagrogog_on smoothie, M21 prints "SD card ok", M22 prints nothing, both do nothing since it's always mounted
Gragagrogog_i'm pretty sure M22 is unknown gcode btw...
rizzitellowhen you remove or plugin the sd card do you get a message in the console if so what ?
rizzitellodoes you machine have auto sd card detection ? i.e it will attempt automaticly mount or unmount the sd card when inserted/removed?
Gragagrogog_eh, smoothie has one sd card which has to be inserted when you restart/power on(with a config file present), there's an option to use a second sd card on panel but idk anything about that
rizzitellooh smootie requires an sd card?
Gragagrogog_yea but it provides std usb storage via usb
rizzitelloso does M20 return the contents of that sd card or the usb?
Gragagrogog_you plug smoothie usb, it shows a com port and usb storage
Gragagrogog_it returns what's on the sd card
rizzitellooh so the sd is mounted on your computer ... oh..
Ameisenthat's my result after lowering temperature and recalibrating flow
Gragagrogog_(well, unless you disable it ofc)
rizzitellodoes it return file size with the name ?
Gragagrogog_no, just names
rizzitellowith dirs? i have a directory gcode on my sd card its returned as gcode/ then gcode/file_in_the_dir ...
Gragagrogog_I'm not sure dirs are supported, never used any
rizzitellothanks triki i have read the generic docs they are kinda sorta helpful
rizzitellofor instance M20 S2 doesn't get you a json return on marlin . At least with the marlin i used 1.1.8
trikilooks like you can list dirs with M20
jeffdm_homeccecil_: how do you control the tool head rocking in smoothieware? Assuning it's in their wiki, what do the docs call it? I couldn't find it.
rizzitelloyou can some return the whole card some require the P switch
trikirizzitello, looks like for sub folders you are correct, you need the P switch
ccecil_jeffdm_home, what do you mean? my toolchange with servo?
rizzitellotriki: except you don't because both marlin and repetier will return all dirs if you send M20 ..
ccecil_jeffdm_home, I just use M280 Sxx but currently I add it to slic3r's output by post processing
rizzitellotriki: why im trying to get info for real working machines..
ccecil_jeffdm_home, I suggested to wolfman to add "gcode_on_toolchange" to config...he said it shouldn't be hard...but that doesnt' mean he will do it :)
ccecil_on a per tool basis
ccecil_then you can do M280 S2.5 for T0 and M280 S7.5 for T1
ccecil_then when you put M280 S5 in your end.gcode it puts them to the middle :)
jeffdm_homeyou put that in the slic3r tool change g code section?
ccecil_but it doesn't do it per tool
ccecil_so if it was a "toggle" command it would be fine...but in my case it is different gcode
ccecil_so I just put M280 in the toolchange section in slicer
ccecil_then I use notepad++ and search for T0 and T1 and do a replace with T0 M280
ccecil_m280 S2.5
ccecil_or whatever
ccecil_wait...I leave the toolchange section in slic3r blank
ccecil_sorry :)
ccecil_but you get the point...extra steps...waste of time :)
jeffdm_homeI was just curious how you controlled it
ccecil_jeffdm_home, hobby servo section in switch module stuff
ccecil_it is in the wiki in the switch page
ccecil_you can even do multiple hobby servos with subcodes if you wanted :)
jeffdm_homethanks I hadn't gotten that far
ccecil_The printer that is on has z probe, filament out detector, dual extruders servo driven, chamber temperature much as much stuff as I want to put on it
ccecil_it is going to have an enclosure and touchscreen controller too
rizzitelloenclosure is very helpful .
rizzitellomy abs prints are so much better since i built mine
Cuda2oh hell the fuck yeah, i have broadband again! <3
rizzitelloi did opt to keep all the extra stuff external of the controller so you need to hit a switch for lights and stuff like that
rizzitelloso what firmware(S) are you all using?
ccecil_jeffdm_home, that is how much crap is hooked to that smoothie :)
ccecil_and I am using a dc ssr for the bed
ccecil_I might still add an ac ssr for the power on/off from smoothie too
rizzitelloccecil_: that is very neatly wired
ccecil_rizzitello, thanks...but somehow still not good enough :)
lowrizzleclearner than mine
rizzitellocleaner then mine too
ccecil_ the dual exturders
ccecil_lowrizzle, you could benefit from some twisted pair :)
rizzitelloso here is the place to ask people to test on smootie then lol
ccecil_rizzitello, well...lots of users here and also #smoothieware
jeffdm_homeccecil_: I see four thermistors used, where does the fourth one go?
ccecil_chamber controls the large fan in the top of the aluminatus currently :)
jeffdm_homealmost same diff can be the chamber or inside the machine temp
jeffdm_homeyou don't use an LCD?
ccecil_I am going to mod a shield on the fan on the top and make it as the "chamber vent" fan
ccecil_jeffdm_home, it will have the touchscreen on it
ccecil_with smoopi
ccecil_smoothpi...whatever it is called :)
ccecil_not sure :)
jeffdm_homeIt sounds like a drug street name
jeffdm_homehit me with some smoopi
trikioctoprint ?
gthxoctoprint is a Web enabled frontend with webcam support meant to run on an rpi for RepRaps | | | OctoPi | Addons Plugins:
ccecil_it is a raspi3 with touchscreen
ccecil_it isn't octoprint directly...more smoothie geared...has cnc based skins too
ccecil_so...kinda different...sec
jeffdm_homeWhat I'd like to do some time is control vents. Like use a servo to open louvers and turn on a fan
merkur2k_heh what you working on now
ccecil_that ^
durrf2afaik theres octoprint plugins for that sorta thing jeffdm_home
ccecil_merkur2k_, same stuff
merkur2k_i see
jeffdm_homeI can do it within the firmware. I just haven't gotten there yet
ccecil_jeffdm_home, you could do that auto in smoothie with temperatureswitch and hobby servo
ccecil_wouldn't need a host...just config
rizzitelloi write a host well right now just some basic stuff if anyone would like to try it
trikinice KDE :)
MetalsuttonHey guys
jeffdm_homeIt's really just on my list, I've got other things to futz with
rizzitelloyup KDE :D
MetalsuttonSo i have a bit of a problem. I think my thermoister is faulty, I cannot bring my hotend up to temp because i have hit the software limits. Does anyone know if i can override those limits and where they might be set?
ccecil_jeffdm_home, you could make it open a panel, turn on a fan, light a cigar and dim the lights if you wanted :)
ccecil_don't make me prove it
jeffdm_homewith hookers and blackjack!
ccecil_that would be in the host :)
MetalsuttonNot sure if the softlimit is built into octopi or the firmware, im guessing firmware.
rizzitellotriki: you can dl built stuff from
trikity, i see you have arch support :)
rizzitellotriki: i make the arch pacakge
rizzitellocan't type but can make package lol
trikiheheh :)
ccecil_Metalsutton, sounds like you have a detached or shorted thermistor
rizzitellotry the aur 's atcore-git for newer code.
ccecil_Metalsutton, it is a firmware thing typicallly
rizzitellosome basic sd card support in repetier and marlin when i get merged
MetalsuttonI can print PLA ok, but with Abs i have to set the temp to 275 deg to even get it to extrude, and even then i have a feeling that its still not melting correctly.
rizzitellodoes anyone use teacup / aprinter or sprinter? or have those all died?
trikirizzitello, i've been using octo-control to query the printer for stats, it's not bad,
rizzitellotriki: we have plans to expand our support to ip based printers
trikiexcellent, I'll keep an eye on this :)
rizzitellowonderful :D
rizzitelloguess my next printer will have to be smoothie based since thats the one thing i can not install on my arduino / ramps
Metalsuttonso would you guys recommend i go a little extra and purchase one of those themistors that already have the threaded m3 connection? Looks like a lot less hassle.
jeffdm_workhow hot do you want to go?
jeffdm_worksome use a potting compound that's not good above 250˚C. Some claim to go higher though.
jeffdm_workI'm surprised even RPOne doesn't do some kind of ceramic cement, then it's good for better than the thermistor itself.
thewsyou guys see the 3d printer on the cloverfield paradox?
thewshas lifting nozzles
pink_vampirethews: what do you mean?
durrf2sure thats not a PnP machine?
gthxpnp is a transistor and also pick and place
pink_vampirepnp machine?
fluxseems marlin doesn't support circular print area soft limits, right? has anyone worked on that?
thewspink_vampire, what part are you confused about
thewsthere's been a few lifting nozzle printers
durrf2pick and place
thewsnozzle lifts on retract or material swap
pink_vampireit is not the job of the Z axis?
jeffdm_workDimension and Fortus printers do this
Lizards|Workz axis on a delta is all the axes
thewswhen you do multiple nozzles it's not the job of z axis
jeffdm_workThe idea is to get the unused nozzle out of the way
jeffdm_workyou can't just z axis your way out of that
pink_vampirei see what you mean
thewsI'm pretty sure the printer on the movie is fake
thewsbut I thought it was interesting enough to share
jeffdm_workmost of the ones I've seen rock the extruder
gthx => DONDOLO v1 test anti-oozing. => 1 IRC mentions
jeffdm_workwell skip to 1:10
gthx => D3D Autolift Hot Ends => 1 IRC mentions
thewsone that doesn't tilt ^
jeffdm_workI remember that
jeffdm_workI wonder what D3D thought was patentable that wasn't already covered by a Stratasys patent.
thewstilting nozzles hasn't caught on like I thought it would have
thewsprime towers have won for now
fluxthews, is there any tilting nozzle version? seems like a decent solution, if the tilting is made precise..
gthx => 3D bicolor printing with diamond hotend => 1 IRC mentions
Cyber_Akumalatest two prints seem to have the same amount of stringing, but both are considerably lower than before
pink_vampirei'm very good with 3d modeling and machining , but not with programming
jeffdm_workI think there might be an issue with tilting being patented and no one wants to play that game. I think it's a BS patent but fighting it is an expensive gamble.
durrf2 like this?
|Jeroen|what about nozzles with a diaframa that can close?
jeffdm_workD3D might clear that but there's still the risk.
|Jeroen|would be cool
tjb1I ordered my re-arm thursday night and got it
thewsflux, I think there was a good one on the spiderbot delta
gthx => SpiderBot Dual Extruder Preview => 1 IRC mentions
thewsI've seen several different variations though, some have had thin strips of metal that the nozzle slid onto
|Jeroen|would be nicer then wipetowers i think
Lizards|Worktjb1: let me know if you like it, i'm looking at one
tjb1Lizards|Work: might be a bit
tjb1fighting with stupid pi and octoprint
Lizards|Workwhat problems you havin?
tjb1Server not starting
tjb1It starting and not reloading to let me in
tjb1Finally got it to start and then printer wouldnt connect anymore
jeffdm_workthat one still uses a prime tower
tjb1I had a Zero4U hub on it and it kept losing connection so I thought that was dropping and ever since I took that off I havent been able to do anything
gthx => EDEKA Supergeil (feat. Friedrich Liechtenstein) => 2 IRC mentions
TheHexaCubesharing again because i just remembered this is a thing
Gragagrogog_zuppa zuppa
lowrizzlei ordered some orange pi zeros to move my octoprint instances over to
tjb1Whats the benefit to that?
lowrizzlethey're $10, quad core, wifi, and have no video output
lowrizzlei can run 3-4 instances of octoprint on one and free up my pis for other uses
tjb1that similar to a pi zero w other than the cores yes?
Lizards|Worklowrizzle: if you send me one i'll test it out
lowrizzlepi zero w has 1 core, this is 4, so it should do multiple instances nicely
lowrizzleLizards|Work: i only ordered a couple but i know i can get it working
|Jeroen|or the new pine H6 board looks nice fot the money
lowrizzlei have 3 octoprint instances behind haproxy on a pi2 right now
tjb1Where did you get them from?
durrf2yeah i have 3 instances + 2 webcams running off a pi3b
lowrizzlei got mine off aliexpress
lowrizzlei was going to order more Pi3s but i figure for the price of one i can order 3 orange pi zeros and just free up the pis i already have
durrf2i need to migrate to some orange pi instead of my rpi :/
Lizards|Worki've got several pi zeroes and a pi 1
durrf2i have a few opis
Lizards|Workthe pi 3 is my wife's but i can probably liberate it
lowrizzlei have a zero, a pi 1, 2, and 3
lowrizzlebut i poured water on the 3 and it only flashes red now lol
durrf2got an opi pc, one, zero and uhhh
lowrizzledripped water
durrf2one more i cant remember
thewsTheHexaCube, have you watched much little big?
tjb1lowrizzle: that orange pi work with octoprint without any changes?
lowrizzleno, you need to install armbian then install octoprint, there is no default prebuilt octoprint.iso
TheHexaCubethews: no idea what that is D:
lowrizzlebut there are a lot of instructions out there are it's basically installing some system packages then octoprint, so it's pretty manageble
tjb1lowrizzle: so is there a octoprint on orange for idiots manual?
tjb1oh ok
Lizards|Worktjb1: if you can resolve dependencies for linux packages, you can install octoprint on an orange pi
lowrizzleit depends on what quantity of idiot
lowrizzlefor large quantities of idiot, that would not be enough
tjb1Lizards|Work: thats pushin it
lowrizzleit should be copy/paste for the most part since a lot of people have already done the legwork and documented it
Lizards|Worktjb1: most of the time it's copy "sudo apt-get install libcurl libssl lib..." and then wait while it installs
tjb1yeah I can do that
tjb1I know how to use nano too!
Lizards|Workvim 4 lyfe
tjb1thats it though
tjb1lowrizzle: I assume you get the usb board too?
lowrizzleit has one usb port broken out and 3 more in headers
lowrizzlei didn't get anything additional, just orange pi zeros
lowrizzlethis listing
lowrizzlewhat a horrible address
tjb1scumbag ebay sellers listing multiple items
tjb1but use a picture for the most expensive
|Jeroen|yeah this multiple listing fucked up ebay
|Jeroen|no wat to find the best deals
tjb1best part, the pictured item is out of stock lol
lowrizzlemaybe ebay gave up and are hoping amazon buys them
tjb1its cheaper to get the orange pi from amazon than a US seller on ebay
tjb1Did you get yours yet?
lowrizzlei just ordered mine last night, it'll take a few weeks because i got them from aliexpress instead of amazon
tjb1Might be better to use ebay due to chinese new year
tjb1lowrizzle: do you know if its possible to access Smoothieware SD over Octoprint?
|Jeroen|you don't need octoprint for smoothie
|Jeroen|it has a webif build in
|Jeroen|and yes you can upload to sd with it
tjb1well it doesnt have wifi
|Jeroen|add a bridge
|Jeroen|or run cable
tjb1Those were lioke $30 last time I checked
|Jeroen|so is a controller fot octo :p
tjb1well I already have a pi zero w
tjb1Smoothieboard web interface work without doing anything fancy?
|Jeroen|yes its out of the box
tjb1well probably not now since I deleted all of that out of the config lol
Lizards|Worki've never used it, i like octoprint :]
|Jeroen|i like simple solutions :p
lowrizzlesmoothieware's web interface is like using a stripped pronterface last time i checked
lowrizzleit was vexing to use as an interface
|Jeroen|the basic is simple yeah, but all you need
|Jeroen|but there is a more fancy verison you can put on sd
tjb1can you edit config on the web?
|Jeroen|you can upload it via web
Lizards|Worki sometimes edit the config via terminal too
|Jeroen|and then give a reboot commùand
tjb1why does a bridge cost so much...
|Jeroen|grab an old router and put dd-wrt on it
durrf2many routers can be bridges
|Jeroen|or openwrt
|Jeroen|or buy some cheap chinese one with dd-wrt
durrf2or get a tp-link with all that shit for 30 bux
tjb1just use the stupid powerline adapters I have
|Jeroen|i guess you can find one for like 15$
durrf2powerline adapters cause interferance with other shit in my house
|Jeroen|yeah powerline is crap :p
durrf2its great for in a pinch at some old ladies house or something
tjb1thats why my computer is no longer connected to one
durrf2but i dont trust AC power to carry my network packets!!
tjb1the power company is watching
tjb1readin your packets
tjb1watchin your pron
|Jeroen|don't think it gets so far
|Jeroen|but your neighbour might he
lowrizzlei think you'd have a hard time saturating out a powerline adapter with a gcode stream or three
tjb1slic3r seems to be working nice
tjb1much better than simplify3d
natewalckAll the Youtube 3D Printing channels rave about Simplify 3D
natewalckI didn't have good luck with it on my Lulzbot mini
lowrizzlei like s3d's interface when working with 4 or 5 printers
natewalckdefault configs were pretty far off
tjb1I dont like its interface at all
lowrizzleits convenient to logically break out all of my materials/machines/processes
tjb1gonna go back to kisslicer
natewalckI'm using Cura atm for the Mini
natewalckprobably going to move to Slic3r for Railcore (or whatever is most popular to use on that printer)
tjb1Simplify doesnt even let you use hardware retraction without adding some stupid post processing script
|Jeroen|yeah slic3r is nice
|Jeroen|and the prusa version is even nicer
lowrizzletjb1: just uncheck the software retraction
tjb1Then they have DRM check all over the place
natewalckAgreed. I love the variable layer height
natewalckI know S3D can do that too
natewalckvia processes
tjb1lowrizzle: how would you inject the G10/G11 then?
|Jeroen|why would you want hardware retraction?
|Jeroen|never saw the point of it
tjb1I can adjust it mid print
lowrizzleme either, but some people swear you can set one HW value and have it work for everything
|Jeroen|and why do you need to ajust it in mid print?
tjb1when it isnt working right
|Jeroen|don't you know that at the start?
tjb1maybe simplify just sucks at it and I was looking for something that worked better
|Jeroen|i start and if somthing is wrong just stop and fix
tjb1How do you see print time in slic3r?
durrf2i guess you gotta print it to see!
TwistSo this might be the wrong channel, but I can't think of a better one offhand. Is anyone using bCNC hand having success with the autoleveling feature?
tjb1Really doesnt tell you an estimated print time after slicing?
durrf2theres a couple cnc dudes in here
lowrizzleTwist: autolevel on cnc? why not just tram your spoilboard
tjb1Doesnt exist
Twistlowrizzle: Autoleveling does seem like a misnomer for the feature. The target application is machining on curved surfaces.
Twistlowrizzle: It's akin to mesh leveling in marlin.
lowrizzleso it's basically probing
lowrizzlei use universal gcode sender personally but that sounds interesting
Twistlowrizzle: Yeah, I'm using GRBL. UGS woudld be fine for most uses.
Twistlowrizzle: actually, I haven't looked at UGS in several revisions.. does it do this now?
TwistDoesn't look like it. Though the UI is vastly improved since I last saw it.
lowrizzlewell, probing can be done with GRBL using gcode and either a probing block or if your media is metal, the endmill itself
lowrizzleit's not so much a feature of host software, you can do probing in gcode on any sorta mill
TwistRight. But GRBL doesn't have anything for this use case as far as I've seen.
TwistSingle point probing works fine.
TwistBuilding a 3d map of the surface and adjusting z height on the fly.. probably doesn't fit in firmware.
TwistExcept marlin's doing it. Hurm.
lowrizzleit's doing a mesh
lowrizzleeither way it can be done in gcode alone
lowrizzleprobing for contour, it's just kinda a weird way to do it i guess
lowrizzleugs does autoleveling fwiw and it looks like it's done in host software as well
|Jeroen|nothing beats good old manual leveling :p
Twistlowrizzle: so it does. I might try that as well.
Twistlooks relatively new
TwistI might need something beefier than an rPi though. :D
tjb1Has there been anything that allows you to control a wifi outlet with Smoothieware?
durrf2i know octoprint has plugins that let you control some
tjb1Yeah I had it controlling a belkin wemo but I dont see anything like that for Smoothie
lowrizzleto like, turn on and off the printer?
lowrizzlehuh i might try that, i have spare smartplugs
lowrizzleteepee link
lowrizzlehmm all my gear is tplink
lowrizzleahh the tplink are embedded linux instances
lowrizzlethat'll do, pig
jeffdm_homeI think smoothieware switch might do it
jeffdm_homewell maybe not
jeffdm_homeIf you have a relay you can use the info here[]=atx
lowrizzlewell shit i'm just going to cron job my house
lowrizzlei didn't realize how many libs for devices there were
tjb1guess I'll look at that ssr again
durrf2theres a plugin for the tplink plugs on octoprint, lowrizzle
TwistYou might not need a relay.. I can't speak for the smoothieboard, but I was able to just use an arduino data pin to control an ATX supply.
TwistATX supplies have a 5V standby line that's more than sufficient to power a microcontroller.
jeffdm_homeWell the same config works both ways.
ccecil_you can run the atx supply enable pin from a smoothie
ccecil_if you are using an led supply you need a ssr
jeffdm_homeI don't do ATX but the pin will run some relays & SSRs
ccecil_some ssrs require 5v to that case you tie the 5v to the + and open drain to the _
jeffdm_homethat's exactly what the wiki suggests
ccecil_one of the dc-dc ssrs I have needs 5v to work so I run it open drain
jeffdm_homeWait the wiki suggests using a mosfet output to run a relay.
Dax_Hi Guys
Dax_i need some help setting up marlin please
ccecil_jeffdm_home, can use a pin setup open drain though
ccecil_jeffdm_home, then you hook the 5v to the + side of the relay and sink to the opendrain pin
ccecil_only an ssr by the way :) no magnetics
Guest39522i cant figure out what i am doing wrong, i setup auto leveling and when add the G29 to the start gcode in cura i get a bed crash but when not doing that it prints perfectly
Cyber_AkumaIs there any downside to just raising bed temperature for adhesion issues?
lowrizzleyes, you get a bit of a foot at the bottom of the print
lowrizzleor, have more of a likelihood of developing print-toe
lowrizzleif i have adhesion issues i like to add brim rather than extra heat
lowrizzleelephants foot
Cyber_AkumaI already use a brim
lowrizzlewhatever you want to call it when there's a bit of a thickness on layer0 due to heat
lowrizzleuse more brin?
Cyber_AkumaI kinda have to as it dosen't seem to extrude instantly
gthxbrim is a thin expansion of the first layer area to help hold the printed part to the bed and avoid curling, and removed after the print is done; available in any modern slicing application
Cyber_AkumaWaiot.... I thinking of skirt
Cyber_AkumaThe brim woulden't stay down
lowrizzlea brim is there to keep the print attached
lowrizzlea skirt is basically just a brim that doesnt' touch the print
lowrizzlein s3d you set skirt offset to 0mm for brims
Cyber_AkumaIt's just a single-thickness outline around the print
lowrizzlethat's a skirt
Cyber_AkumaI know, that's what i said
lowrizzlea brim is like a skirt that's 4 or more widths
lowrizzlebut is touching the print
Cyber_AkumaYeah, when I tried a brim it woulden't stay down
lowrizzleit's also an 80s brand of drip coffee
lowrizzlericher in columbian beans than the next leading coffee
Cyber_AkumaTell me when I can buy filament made out of it :P
lowrizzleproto-pasta sells coffee infused filament
lowrizzlebrim is out of business though
Cyber_AkumaHEh, not surprised, I am assuming the reason for that is either the color or the smell?
dax_sahey all, i cant figure out what i am doing wrong, i setup auto leveling and when add the G29 to the start gcode in cura i get a bed crash but when not doing that it prints perfectly
Cyber_AkumaHuh, filament made with trash....
Cyber_Akumathat would be perfect for how my prints end up anyway
Cyber_AkumaGrrr, lat 5 print attempts all failed instnatly, they won't adhere to the base anymore ever since I increased my retraction. Does retraction effect bed adherance?
durrf2if its not tuned in properly it can cause issues where it cant stick properly at first
durrf2what are you using for bed adhesion?
durrf2if you try a previously working gcode, does it still work?
Cyber_AkumaI took the same model that worked at 0.7 retraction, and tried 0.8
Cyber_AkumaAnd it keeps failing now
durrf2nothing changed physically?
durrf2bed is still level?
Cyber_AkumaThere was stringing at 0.7 retraction though, but it was significantly less than when I had retraction at 0.5
DJHenjinis it a glass bed?
DJHenjinif so, what I do when prints don't stick is take the bed upstairs to the kitchen and wash it off really well, allow it to dry then try the print again
Cyber_AkumaGlass with PEI on it
Cyber_AkumaDoes retraction have anything to do with bed adhesion? Since thats the only thingt I messed with